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Hoon's DIYish Engine Build Thread

Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
EDITs:

Engine and Trans Separation

Teardown

Short Block Assembly

Cylinder Head Installation


Right now the plan is to DIY the engine removal and tear down. In about 3 weeks the block is going to a local machine shop for measurements, once we verify the cylinders do not have any excessive wear, taper, or areas of scoring that will require boring, the pistons will be ordered. I could order them now in 83mm, but i really want to stay with an 82.5mm bore if the block condition allows.

Pistons are being custom made by JE to PPT's specs. They have asymmetrical skirts to cut weight, forged side reliefs and are coated. Lead time is about 6 weeks after the order is placed, so this is a process that will take 3+ months, but it's going to be a long winter anyway.

The only other component i can't order yet is main bearings, because VW used different mains depending on the block code. I'm not going to bother crawling around to try to read the code (on the back of the engine near the bellhousing), it will be plain to see once removed.

I may assemble the bottom end myself or i may have the machine shop do it, depends on cost. I'm leaning towards having them do the assembly because the cost of tools to do it properly will likely be more than the cost of assembly. Yes, i can buy some plasti-gauge and a cheap ring file, but i'm looking for a bit more precision. Rest of the engine assembly/installation will be DIY.

You will need the cam valve tool available here, and to make reassembly at lot easier the cam lock tool here. (this has been updated to the correct cam tool after feedback from Rotaryguy below).

Originally i was going to skip rods because with FWD i can't put down more TQ than the stock rods can hold. Even if i skipped rods, i would do ARP rod bolts. Because the stock rods are burnished and do not have bushings in the small end, you need wrist pins with a DLC coating, or you must reuse the stock pins, which has the potential to create issues. For ARP bolts and DLC coated pins, i'd be at $250 to reuse the stock rods...which is halfway to the cost of a great aftermarket rod. It became a no-brainer at that point to do the rods also.

Right now, the list is as follows. This list will undoubtedly grow...should probably do a water pump and a few other things while i'm here.

Edit:

Many changes to the initial plan due to the amount of time it took the machine shop to get anything done. The IE parts were off the shelf, at the time the JE pistons i intended to run had a 4-6 week lead time, so i made the switch because it was one of the few things in my power to expedite the project.

Updated Parts List:

IE Valve Springs and Ti Retainers

Ferrea Stock Size Valves

IE 83mm Pistons

IE Rifle Drilled H Beam Connecting Rods

Calico Coated Rod Bearings

ARP Head Studs

OEM Head Gasket

OEM Main Bearings & Bolts

OEM Rear Main Seal (may switch to iAbed)

OEM Thrust bearing

Oil Cooler Gasket Gen 3

Oil Pan Gasket Gen 3

Timing Cover Gasket Gen 3

Valve Cover Sealant



Machine Work (Complete)

Hot Tank Block and Parts

Pressure test head

Resurface head (.007" Cut to get a true surface)

Valve job and installation (Seats cut .010" deeper, valve stems cut .010" to maintain OEM geometry)

Bore and Hone (piston to wall .0020")

Deck block

Magnaflux Crank

Polish crank

Clearance bearings (all at .0015")

Balance rotating assembly

Grind ring gaps (.023")
 
Last edited:

daconchslop

Autocross Champion
Location
SC
Car(s)
ACS SE/Tech
Present teacher....


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swcrow

Autocross Champion
Location
Virginia
Car(s)
7.5 GTI
Soooooo subscribed
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
I'm just here to fuck shit up

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rotaryguy

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
FL
Hoon I ordered that exact part number from Amazon and the cam tool does not fit, I had to make one.
Specifically the socket slug with the 2 dowel pins for the control valves. Maybe they updated it since but my kit did not.
Standing in line at Islands of adventure...lol.





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Last edited:

Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Hoon I ordered that exact part number from Amazon and the cam tool does not fit, I had to make one.
Specifically the socket slug with the 2 dowel pins for the control valves. Maybe they updated it since but my kit did not.
Standing in line at Islands of adventure...lol.

Good to know, thank you!

When you search the VW special tool number that kit comes up, which is probably how you got caught also.

Cancelled it, will order the one from ShopDAP and update later.
 

2slowvw

Moderator
Location
VA
Car(s)
2022 Tesla Model 3
Good luck Hoon. Can't wait to see the end result in the spring
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
I'll also be going with the je pistons and brute rods

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jmason

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Frederick, MD
Any thoughts on different exhaust valves? Are stock valves enough to handle higher EGT from upgraded turbos/tunes?

IDK if you were running an oil cooler. Would be a good time to install the iAbed kit.
 

roystr

Ready to race!
Location
California
Back in the day, I built a couple of big turbo B series Honda engines (T3/T4 hybrid and T4/60-1) using ACL Duraglide rod and main bearings (along with Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods). Nothing but good things to say about them. They did only come in one size which was ok because it put me in the middle of the clearance range. Looks like you have a couple of options to choose from for the EA888 though. It'll be cool to this come together!
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
Ima thread Jack for a sec, my motor and transmission are out, not a bad job at all


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