Hoon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Rhode Island
EDITs:
Engine and Trans Separation
Teardown
Short Block Assembly
Cylinder Head Installation
Right now the plan is to DIY the engine removal and tear down. In about 3 weeks the block is going to a local machine shop for measurements, once we verify the cylinders do not have any excessive wear, taper, or areas of scoring that will require boring, the pistons will be ordered. I could order them now in 83mm, but i really want to stay with an 82.5mm bore if the block condition allows.
Pistons are being custom made by JE to PPT's specs. They have asymmetrical skirts to cut weight, forged side reliefs and are coated. Lead time is about 6 weeks after the order is placed, so this is a process that will take 3+ months, but it's going to be a long winter anyway.
The only other component i can't order yet is main bearings, because VW used different mains depending on the block code. I'm not going to bother crawling around to try to read the code (on the back of the engine near the bellhousing), it will be plain to see once removed.
I may assemble the bottom end myself or i may have the machine shop do it, depends on cost. I'm leaning towards having them do the assembly because the cost of tools to do it properly will likely be more than the cost of assembly. Yes, i can buy some plasti-gauge and a cheap ring file, but i'm looking for a bit more precision. Rest of the engine assembly/installation will be DIY.
You will need the cam valve tool available here, and to make reassembly at lot easier the cam lock tool here. (this has been updated to the correct cam tool after feedback from Rotaryguy below).
Originally i was going to skip rods because with FWD i can't put down more TQ than the stock rods can hold. Even if i skipped rods, i would do ARP rod bolts. Because the stock rods are burnished and do not have bushings in the small end, you need wrist pins with a DLC coating, or you must reuse the stock pins, which has the potential to create issues. For ARP bolts and DLC coated pins, i'd be at $250 to reuse the stock rods...which is halfway to the cost of a great aftermarket rod. It became a no-brainer at that point to do the rods also.
Right now, the list is as follows. This list will undoubtedly grow...should probably do a water pump and a few other things while i'm here.
Edit:
Many changes to the initial plan due to the amount of time it took the machine shop to get anything done. The IE parts were off the shelf, at the time the JE pistons i intended to run had a 4-6 week lead time, so i made the switch because it was one of the few things in my power to expedite the project.
Updated Parts List:
IE Valve Springs and Ti Retainers
Ferrea Stock Size Valves
IE 83mm Pistons
IE Rifle Drilled H Beam Connecting Rods
Calico Coated Rod Bearings
ARP Head Studs
OEM Head Gasket
OEM Main Bearings & Bolts
OEM Rear Main Seal (may switch to iAbed)
OEM Thrust bearing
Oil Cooler Gasket Gen 3
Oil Pan Gasket Gen 3
Timing Cover Gasket Gen 3
Valve Cover Sealant
Machine Work (Complete)
Hot Tank Block and Parts
Pressure test head
Resurface head (.007" Cut to get a true surface)
Valve job and installation (Seats cut .010" deeper, valve stems cut .010" to maintain OEM geometry)
Bore and Hone (piston to wall .0020")
Deck block
Magnaflux Crank
Polish crank
Clearance bearings (all at .0015")
Balance rotating assembly
Grind ring gaps (.023")
Engine and Trans Separation
Teardown
Short Block Assembly
Cylinder Head Installation
Right now the plan is to DIY the engine removal and tear down. In about 3 weeks the block is going to a local machine shop for measurements, once we verify the cylinders do not have any excessive wear, taper, or areas of scoring that will require boring, the pistons will be ordered. I could order them now in 83mm, but i really want to stay with an 82.5mm bore if the block condition allows.
Pistons are being custom made by JE to PPT's specs. They have asymmetrical skirts to cut weight, forged side reliefs and are coated. Lead time is about 6 weeks after the order is placed, so this is a process that will take 3+ months, but it's going to be a long winter anyway.
The only other component i can't order yet is main bearings, because VW used different mains depending on the block code. I'm not going to bother crawling around to try to read the code (on the back of the engine near the bellhousing), it will be plain to see once removed.
I may assemble the bottom end myself or i may have the machine shop do it, depends on cost. I'm leaning towards having them do the assembly because the cost of tools to do it properly will likely be more than the cost of assembly. Yes, i can buy some plasti-gauge and a cheap ring file, but i'm looking for a bit more precision. Rest of the engine assembly/installation will be DIY.
You will need the cam valve tool available here, and to make reassembly at lot easier the cam lock tool here. (this has been updated to the correct cam tool after feedback from Rotaryguy below).
Originally i was going to skip rods because with FWD i can't put down more TQ than the stock rods can hold. Even if i skipped rods, i would do ARP rod bolts. Because the stock rods are burnished and do not have bushings in the small end, you need wrist pins with a DLC coating, or you must reuse the stock pins, which has the potential to create issues. For ARP bolts and DLC coated pins, i'd be at $250 to reuse the stock rods...which is halfway to the cost of a great aftermarket rod. It became a no-brainer at that point to do the rods also.
Right now, the list is as follows. This list will undoubtedly grow...should probably do a water pump and a few other things while i'm here.
Edit:
Many changes to the initial plan due to the amount of time it took the machine shop to get anything done. The IE parts were off the shelf, at the time the JE pistons i intended to run had a 4-6 week lead time, so i made the switch because it was one of the few things in my power to expedite the project.
Updated Parts List:
IE Valve Springs and Ti Retainers
Ferrea Stock Size Valves
IE 83mm Pistons
IE Rifle Drilled H Beam Connecting Rods
Calico Coated Rod Bearings
ARP Head Studs
OEM Head Gasket
OEM Main Bearings & Bolts
OEM Rear Main Seal (may switch to iAbed)
OEM Thrust bearing
Oil Cooler Gasket Gen 3
Oil Pan Gasket Gen 3
Timing Cover Gasket Gen 3
Valve Cover Sealant
Machine Work (Complete)
Hot Tank Block and Parts
Pressure test head
Resurface head (.007" Cut to get a true surface)
Valve job and installation (Seats cut .010" deeper, valve stems cut .010" to maintain OEM geometry)
Bore and Hone (piston to wall .0020")
Deck block
Magnaflux Crank
Polish crank
Clearance bearings (all at .0015")
Balance rotating assembly
Grind ring gaps (.023")
Last edited:
