omg thank you....but they're an asshole who's right.
everything is about 'feelings' these days. Better to deal in facts
7
Help, spark plug tip broke inside cylinder.
- Thread starter Beelz
- Start date
everything is about 'feelings' these days. Better to deal in facts
jimlloyd40
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Phoenix
- Car(s)
- 2018 SE DSG
True but I guess it's what the owner can afford to do. Pay me now or pay me later.
In my case, IF that happens down the road then so be it. But I'm not going to start taking my engine apart when it's running fine to find a problem that may or may not be there anymore. I wasn't giving any advice im sharing my experience if certain people don't like it that's their call
this is the first thing i was thinking you should have done. I do it all the time when I do Helicoils and aluminum shavings fall inside the chamber.
Yeah you could try that^
It wouldnt harm the engine, youll just misfire on that cylinder with no spark. Ive done it on water flooded engines to prevent hydrolock. Fun to see the water shoot out the top of an engine.
Just sucks that the worst damage is probably done. Heavy scoring on the cylinder walls can lead to all kind of bad things. Youll get increased blow by and less compression over time and it could even lead to piston slap in a worst case scenario. You cant tell much from that borescope video because it is so low quality unfortunately but I can definitely already see marks in the piston head which would align with the sounds the OP had.
Most troubling is his car shut off on its own with that rattling inside the engine
It wouldnt harm the engine, youll just misfire on that cylinder with no spark. Ive done it on water flooded engines to prevent hydrolock. Fun to see the water shoot out the top of an engine.
Just sucks that the worst damage is probably done. Heavy scoring on the cylinder walls can lead to all kind of bad things. Youll get increased blow by and less compression over time and it could even lead to piston slap in a worst case scenario. You cant tell much from that borescope video because it is so low quality unfortunately but I can definitely already see marks in the piston head which would align with the sounds the OP had.
Most troubling is his car shut off on its own with that rattling inside the engine
If some totally ignorant person came here with the same issue, sees this idiot just driving around with a screwed up motor, it would be a bigger asshole move to not let them know how bad of an idea that is. OP might as well be trolling at this point....but they're an asshole who's right.
I had the same sound. But mine is intermittent. Comes and goes. Not using the car right now, it is sitting in the garage waiting for me to deal with the problem. Upon start, no noise. Boroscope cylinder check, leakdown and compression check ALL passed. No scoring. Could only make the noise happen after the one pull I did after replacing the spark plugs after the electrode broke off. I used the spark plugs past their service interval like a dumbass, and never got around to upgrading the intercooler. I'm thinking the cause was a combination of these two things. Looked in the PCV valve opening and no obvious damage to the valve train from what I could see there. Is the ONLY next step complete disassembly?
Navi
Autocross Champion
- Location
- BK/NYC/Hamptons
what spark plugs are breaking? which brand?
NGK for me. RS7 plug upgrade. Got it from ECS.
It's so easy to check them on these cars you might as well do it every 1-2 oil changes. Buy em through FCP, swap for new ones as soon as you feel like it.
Agray
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Washington
All of them when improperly gapped and run at extended intervals.
Hi All. So I also have had the same issue - 17 MK7 Golf R, dropped an electrode in Cylinder 3.
A little history: I ran the NGK RS7 Plugs for 20K miles last year (on stock coils) - no issues what so ever. In January, I put in new NGK RS7 plugs AND the APR coil packs, and earlier this month (at 11k miles on the plugs), cylinder 3 dropped the ground electrode into the cylinder. Upon disassembly, cylinder 3 spark plug was loose (which I cant explain - I torqued them to 30NM / 22lbf myself). Per NGK's website A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated in the cylinder head and heat dissipation will be slowed. As a result, the firing end of the spark plug can overheat and pre-ignition can occur. Serious engine damage can follow. My guess is, this is what caused the electrode to fail.
First, I replaced the spark plugs with OEM MK7 R plugs. Started the engine, and was getting an intermittent clicking noise (Identical to OP's). The car would idle fine, but would misfire when under any kind of load, and actually misfired on all cylinders (1, 2, 3, 4, Multiple cylinder misfire, and hide cylinder were all codes I got after a 2 block drive). No Bueno.
Next (following OP) - the intake was removed to clean the intake valves. Incredibly - the electrode was still in the intake manifold.
After carbon cleaning was completed, the car has a couple misfires within the first 20 miles - but nothing to throw a code, including several WOT pulls through the gears. Eventually completed another 300 miles today, without any misfires what so ever. FYI for anyone else who experiences this!
A little history: I ran the NGK RS7 Plugs for 20K miles last year (on stock coils) - no issues what so ever. In January, I put in new NGK RS7 plugs AND the APR coil packs, and earlier this month (at 11k miles on the plugs), cylinder 3 dropped the ground electrode into the cylinder. Upon disassembly, cylinder 3 spark plug was loose (which I cant explain - I torqued them to 30NM / 22lbf myself). Per NGK's website A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated in the cylinder head and heat dissipation will be slowed. As a result, the firing end of the spark plug can overheat and pre-ignition can occur. Serious engine damage can follow. My guess is, this is what caused the electrode to fail.
First, I replaced the spark plugs with OEM MK7 R plugs. Started the engine, and was getting an intermittent clicking noise (Identical to OP's). The car would idle fine, but would misfire when under any kind of load, and actually misfired on all cylinders (1, 2, 3, 4, Multiple cylinder misfire, and hide cylinder were all codes I got after a 2 block drive). No Bueno.
Next (following OP) - the intake was removed to clean the intake valves. Incredibly - the electrode was still in the intake manifold.
After carbon cleaning was completed, the car has a couple misfires within the first 20 miles - but nothing to throw a code, including several WOT pulls through the gears. Eventually completed another 300 miles today, without any misfires what so ever. FYI for anyone else who experiences this!
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Did you adjust the gap on the RS7 plugs or were they installed untouched?
IIRC, I did close the gap (stock is 0.028"), per APR: APR recommends NGK heat range 9 (NGK-R7437-9) spark plugs gapped to 0.024" ±0.002" or 0.6mm ±0.05mm with a change interval of 10-15,000 mi or 16-24,000 km.
I have a spark plug gap tool at home, and have adjusted several spark plugs before. Note - I did NOT run the NGK-R7437-9, but rather the OEM Audi RS7 plugs purchased from ECS turning.
Not ruling out that I induced fatigue during the gapping process (IE - if I closed it too far, then opened it back up). However - the fact that the plug was loose when I pulled it, leads me to believe that was the primary contributor to the failed ground electrode.
I have a spark plug gap tool at home, and have adjusted several spark plugs before. Note - I did NOT run the NGK-R7437-9, but rather the OEM Audi RS7 plugs purchased from ECS turning.
Not ruling out that I induced fatigue during the gapping process (IE - if I closed it too far, then opened it back up). However - the fact that the plug was loose when I pulled it, leads me to believe that was the primary contributor to the failed ground electrode.