Helix Soundbox Upgrade Information Post!

[aegis]

I have this exact problem. In cold weather it doesn't work, just a loud hiss through the speakers, once everything warms up it gradually starts working, could be 15min could be an hour depending on temps. I chalked it up to a failed cold weld in the amp, but still trying to solve/fix.

Anyone have solutions?

-10 Celcius for me just reduces power and basically removes bass. I don't know enough to know if this type of thing is normal or not.
I will say that I bought another Helix brand new and will be installing it in my partners car this summer. Might be a year from now but I'll eventually be able to compare.

 

[sdphillips07]

-10 Celcius for me just reduces power and basically removes bass. I don't know enough to know if this type of thing is normal or not.
I will say that I bought another Helix brand new and will be installing it in my partners car this summer. Might be a year from now but I'll eventually be able to compare.

hmm... all speakers are impacted for me and at not normally as cold a temperatures. Also happens in the Fall/Spring in the morning after a dew. Maybe mine is a bigger problem.

 

[aegis]

hmm... all speakers are impacted for me and at not normally as cold a temperatures. Also happens in the Fall/Spring in the morning after a dew. Maybe mine is a bigger problem.

Sounds like it tbh

 

[itsjonduhh]

I have this exact problem. In cold weather it doesn't work, just a loud hiss through the speakers, once everything warms up it gradually starts working, could be 15min could be an hour depending on temps. I chalked it up to a failed cold weld in the amp, but still trying to solve/fix.

Anyone have solutions?

No solutions here just corroborating. When it's cold on startup I have noticed either the sub isn't activated or the EQ of the amp. My music still plays, just doesn't sound as clear or full.

Then after a few minutes I eventually notice it's working, it's never abrupt.

 

[Wolphe]

No solutions here just corroborating. When it's cold on startup I have noticed either the sub isn't activated or the EQ of the amp. My music still plays, just doesn't sound as clear or full.

Then after a few minutes I eventually notice it's working, it's never abrupt.

Also corroborating — experiencing the exact same issue (until warmup) with a JBL BassPro Hub in our other car. The coils definitely need to get up to temp, and I’ve read this is common with large subwoofer drivers in the car audio world.

 

[fretburnr]

I got together with StealthGTI today to program my Helix which i installed yesterday. We set it to 57, and I feel the sound actually didn't get better. It seemed that i lost a little bit of clarity. Best I can describe is everything was more raw and simple before i programmed it. Now I want to go back to how it was, but the problem is you never know how the amp is set before you program it. Plugging in the programmer will NOT tell you the current number of the setup, and StealthGTI will provide some info on that in the near future. I will probably buy my own dongle to have, so i can experiment and try to get back that sound it had before i touched it. Wish the amp had a reset button back to factory defaults.

I know you're long past this, but did you ever try one of the Polo programs? Apparently that's the original programming per Audiotec Fischer https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...ming-rental-thread-part-2.357848/post-7521418

 

[2.0T-GTI]

Just installed my "B" model Helix sub in my 2019 Rabbit Ed. GTI. Install was straightforward with the vids linked here.

It was mentioned earlier in thread, but I wanted to comment that program "97 Golf 7 4 door reduced output power" is indeed the right file for the '19 Rabbit Ed/MIB1. The program 98 "Variant" had anemic bass, and a distinct unpleasant upper mids/lower treble hump that was clearly "wrong" for this year/trim. These newer files being released after the newer Mk7/7.5 were released makes it a pretty sure bet that this is the intended file for MIB1. My dealer had a programming dongle they let me borrow. They had no idea what it was for or how to use it, ha!! It didn't have the newer programs on the SD card, but I updated that without issue.

I mounted mine above the spare with the longer jack screw, and it fits perfectly under the rear floor still, as long as you remove the feet as discussed.

 

[fretburnr]

I searched for this but didn't find any info.

I thought I recalled people saying they still had sound with the Helix removed (but harness still in place) for the times you need the extra hatch room. I get no sound and a bunch of codes for speaker circuit open when I just pull the rear unit. Is this expected behavior?

 

[ksurl]

Yes no sound is expected when disconnected.

 

[Cuzoe]

@fretburnr You can buy the 20 pin molex and make a jumper yourself (you will need to get pin out of the Helix box. It's somewhere in this thread).

Or, if it's still available, buy the VW part that plugs in to give you sound if the Helix is temporarily (or permanently) removed... 000051727B.

Edit: Quick search says it's still available via dealer. MSRP is about $30 wouldn't be a big deal to find dealer discount that would probably take 5 to 10 off of that. Dealer listing it just means it's still in production, might not be immediately available. I see someone on eBay for $30 but they want $20 shipping, lol.

 

[fretburnr]

@fretburnr You can buy the 20 pin molex and make a jumper yourself (you will need to get pin out of the Helix box. It's somewhere in this thread).

Or, if it's still available, buy the VW part that plugs in to give you sound if the Helix is temporarily (or permanently) removed... 000051727B.

Edit: Quick search says it's still available via dealer. MSRP is about $30 wouldn't be a big deal to find dealer discount that would probably take 5 to 10 off of that. Dealer listing it just means it's still in production, might not be immediately available. I see someone on eBay for $30 but they want $20 shipping, lol.

Thank you very much! I'm no stranger to pinning out a jumper, but for $30 or less it's probably a fair time saver.

 

[Cuzoe]

Thank you very much! I'm no stranger to pinning out a jumper, but for $30 or less it's probably a fair time saver.

Yeah, wiring installation/repair/modification is (some part of) my job... and I'm not making this jumper for $30.
I bought one and it lives in that little black hole of a storage area with the first aid kit, battery jumper pack and ratchet/10mm.

 

[chickenstirfry]

@fretburnr You can buy the 20 pin molex and make a jumper yourself (you will need to get pin out of the Helix box. It's somewhere in this thread).

Or, if it's still available, buy the VW part that plugs in to give you sound if the Helix is temporarily (or permanently) removed... 000051727B.

Edit: Quick search says it's still available via dealer. MSRP is about $30 wouldn't be a big deal to find dealer discount that would probably take 5 to 10 off of that. Dealer listing it just means it's still in production, might not be immediately available. I see someone on eBay for $30 but they want $20 shipping, lol.

where does the little connector plug in to?

 

[ksurl]

where does the little connector plug in to?

The harness where you normally plug the helix in. Other end is in the back of the mib

 

[ksurl]

Anyone upgrade the Helix amp and want to sell just the Helix amp?

did you ever fix or find a seller? I am selling mine now (full kit with harness, not just amp)