Helix Soundbox Upgrade Information Post!

[Cuzoe]

That thing looks pretty sweet. Would have simplified my Helix-LC2i-Monoblock setup as well, although my amp does have a remote knob with clipping indicator which is nice. I've gotta read up on proper setup of the LC2i, not sure I have AccuBass threshold or levels set correctly. Then again, does anybody know if the Helix sub output even rolls off lower frequencies as volume goes up?

When I first got everything setup I also thought the mid-sub balance was off but that has been remedied with replacing the front door speakers with the infinity coax set recommended by flipflp (I think) in a different thread. I chose to leave the pillar tweeters connected and really like the overall sound now.

That thread: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/soumatrix-with-helix-sub-dsp.341231/

 

[flipflp]

That thing looks pretty sweet. Would have simplified my Helix-LC2i-Monoblock setup as well, although my amp does have a remote knob with clipping indicator which is nice. I've gotta read up on proper setup of the LC2i, not sure I have AccuBass threshold or levels set correctly. Then again, does anybody know if the Helix sub output even rolls off lower frequencies as volume goes up?

When I first got everything setup I also thought the mid-sub balance was off but that has been remedied with replacing the front door speakers with the infinity coax set recommended by flipflp (I think) in a different thread. I chose to leave the pillar tweeters connected and really like the overall sound now.

That thread: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/soumatrix-with-helix-sub-dsp.341231/

Hopefully some folks pick one of those up. I'm pretty sure I'll snag one and reuse the Helix box and subs too. Two 2 ohm DVC subs in series = 2 4 ohm subs = 2 ohm load, 300 watts to play with. Just have to hope those subs aren't 100% maxed out now.

If anything rolls the low end off at higher volumes it's the head unit itself, that's the original source so the helix can only divide it up. I truly don't know if that happens on VWs, at least in my experience the speakers would start breaking up before I could listen long enough and close enough to hear if "bass intensity" levels out. Definitely watch some youtube videos and try resetting the accubass, and then bypass it and see if the bass decreases.

I think messing with speakers and subs with the helix is a slippery slope now. With my Infinity Kappa separates, the sub doesn't seem as impactful and the doors can rattle real bad. Bass blockers in the door will help the rattling, but now I "need" to upgrade the sub! In the end I think it'll sound great and be a fun project, but considering how much I liked the sound with a $250 investment originally it didn't "need" to be messed with. Live and learn.

 

[martian]

Just finished this upgrade. Pretty impressive for two smallish woofers. The sound isn't so bad even without the dongle tune. I'll hopefully arrange that shortly.
Thanks for the helpful hints everyone!
Cheers!
Martian

 

[Nashvillain]

Just finished this upgrade. Pretty impressive for two smallish woofers. The sound isn't so bad even without the dongle tune. I'll hopefully arrange that shortly.
Thanks for the helpful hints everyone!
Cheers!
Martian

The dongle makes a complete difference. The bass is much tighter, and soundstage is great. A lot of people say highs and mids are muted, but it is definitely harmonically balances. I thought it sounded terrible without programming. Apparently some guy that’s an audio engineer said it sounded better pre programming, there’s absolutely no way anyone with the ability to hear would think that. 2nd gen sub for reference.

 

[flipflp]

Apparently some guy that’s an audio engineer said it sounded better pre programming, there’s absolutely no way anyone with the ability to hear would think that. 2nd gen sub for reference.

You would be referring to 2013R or Plac or "golden ears". I don't think he was an audio engineer professionally but claimed to have very good hearing in relation to stereos, etc.

He's so far been one of the few people to like the Helix unprogrammed. Take that how you wish.

 

[StealthGTI]

You would be referring to 2013R... He's so far been one of the few people to like the Helix unprogrammed. Take that how you wish.

Oddly enough, I saw him either post or share in an unrelated video that he regrets removing his Helix. I don't think he said why, exactly, if he had found a way to mitigate what displeased him, or some other reason. Perhaps he was too impulsive? Not sure. I can certainly relate to impulse shopping, especially during our lockdowns. HAHA! But I'm stubborn enough to keep what I buy unless I simply cannot stand it.

 

[flipflp]

Oddly enough, I saw him either post or share in an unrelated video that he regrets removing his Helix. I don't think he said why, exactly, if he had found a way to mitigate what displeased him, or some other reason. Perhaps he was too impulsive? Not sure. I can certainly relate to impulse shopping, especially during our lockdowns. HAHA! But I'm stubborn enough to keep what I buy unless I simply cannot stand it.

I saw him post that too, even past the point of no return for unprogrammed sound, I guess there was still improvement over stock that was noticeable.

I bought the AudioControl ACM-300.1 amp and a power kit a few weeks back and I'm about ready to start in on that to reamp the subs, as well as install some bass blockers on the front door speakers. Should still give me the upgraded mid-bass but remove some of the rattle created by full range sound in the doors. I also feel like the sub is doing much less, and the amp is distorting or just less clean driving the door speakers, so those changes will all work together to rebalance the system.

Hindsight and all of that, I probably would have just upgraded the sub and left the OEM speakers. They worked just fine, and keep the balance of demand on the amp the same.

 

[flipflp]

Well the amp install went pretty well, and the results were definitely what I was looking for! Took the sub strain off the amp, power the other speakers better and allowed me to turn up the bass to taste.

Right now the amp and wiring are semi temporary while I tweak everything.

20200614_145602 by Jon Collier, on Flickr

Ran an 8 gauge power wire from the battery through the grommet in the firewall behind the battery and down the driver side (ran a remote turn on wire as well even though this amp doesn't need one). The Helix speakers are wired in series on the harness from the amp to the helix box (wired positive from one voice coil to the negative on the other, then wire the opposite positive and negative to the amp) so they are 4 ohms each, 2 ohms total to get the max 300 watts. Really not needed but it's clean power, the gain is set very low. Haven't tuned the accubass circuit to see if it adds anything. Not sure how low the helix really can play but I'll try playing some test tones to measure response.

20200614_145541_HDR by Jon Collier, on Flickr

I have 2 of the Tang Band drivers I linked previously on order to swap out this weekend to see if I can get a bit more thump out of those drivers. The Helix box size/design is nearly plug and play for those speakers and the excursion on those drivers should extend the low end down a bit. I've seen well designed boxes with these drivers get down in the low 30hz range f3.

I haven't yet but I will install bass blockers to the front door. The bass is very full now, but I don't need the doors playing 80hz kick drum hits. Yes, I would really love to have remote level/gain control, but for the sub $200 I spent on the amp, power wiring kit and other bits, it's hard to complain.

 

[StealthGTI]

The power wire alongside the battery: Is it coiled or laid in an "S" shape? If coiled, it will become an inductor, create a voltage drop (albeit small), and produce a magnetic field that may cause interference issues. Otherwise, nice job! I may recommend this route for my daughter when she's ready to upgrade her Golf.

 

[flipflp]

The power wire alongside the battery: Is it coiled or laid in an "S" shape? If coiled, it will become an inductor, create a voltage drop (albeit small), and produce a magnetic field that may cause interference issues. Otherwise, nice job! I may recommend this route for my daughter when she's ready to upgrade her Golf.

This is why no one should let me near wiring. It is coiled (for now). That excess was left until I was sure I knew where I wanted to mount the fuse holder, just need to cut it down and that will go away.

I'm sure that having a small magnetic field next to my ECU is good for it, right?

 

[StealthGTI]

HAHA! Funny. I like to keep that run, and especially the distance between the battery post and the fuse, very short. I started with this:

And then decided I could make that run even shorter:

 

[flipflp]

I had read to not mount the holder on the battery, wasn't sure why since everything vibrates or gets hot in that part of the engine bay. I might still move it and mount it differently, since I'm not sure I'll always have the Neuspeed intake to mount it to. I used locking velcro for it, versus screws.

 

[flipflp]

Had a big weekend and wrapped up the last few mods to the Helix for now. There might still be some optimization and improvements in there somewhere, but I'm very pleased with it.

Here's what I ended up with:
First revision (non-B) Helix, standard install
Infinity Kappa 60.11cs separates up front (https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Kappa-60-11CS-Component-Speaker/dp/B01M724BNZ)
1/2" spacers for install clearance
250uf capacitor soldered inline with speaker adapter (150hz bass blocker on a 4 ohm driver, from Parts Express)
20200620_114504 by Jon Collier, on Flickr

20200620_121254 by Jon Collier, on Flickr

Bass blockers are needed, as the Helix DSP sends full range to the doors. Seriously, 40hz test tones had the door woofers just flopping around making no noise. Not good. You might be happier with a 125hz or even 100hz blocker, but I wanted to make sure as much wattage as possible was used for upper frequencies, now that the sub could dish out more.

AudioControl ACM-1.300 Amp
8ga Power Wiring

Tang Band W5-1138SMF Subwoofer Drivers (https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w5-1138smf-5-1-4-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-917)
These drivers drop RIGHT IN, but the 4 holes don't line up with the screw inserts in the box. Four new holes were drilled and wood screws used. I didn't reinstall the grills because I wasn't sure there would be room for the driver to move (Xmax of 9.25mm!) but I don't have things rolling around in my trunk so I'm not worried.

20200620_095712 by Jon Collier, on Flickr

20200620_100425_HDR by Jon Collier, on Flickr

20200620_100454 by Jon Collier, on Flickr

The result is quite good. If you're a bit of a bass head but can't lose trunk space, the Tang Bands and an external amp are a great add on to the add on. You could probably fund that upgrade for less than $300 depending on your amp choice. It's not going to play 30hz loud, but it hits good and hard and there is way more headroom for those drivers to push harder than the helix woofers ever could.

Bonus pic of new wheels just because
20200621_142208 by Jon Collier, on Flickr

 

[123eman]

Just a quick question... I just had the dealer install the helix sub, The dealer set the programming to 45, i had him change to 57, he gave me the option to change it to another number. What i was wondering is what setting are most people using on a 4 door GTI mk7.5 2019.

Thanks!

 

[flipflp]

Code 45 would be for a MK6 Cabriolet I believe, not sure why they would have used that over the 57 code for 4 door Golfs. That is what most of us have coded.

I've also realized that all of the volkswagen-accessories.com links in my OP have died (for information and codes on the VW site). Unless someone finds an updated site, it looks like VW has taken the site down.