Helix Soundbox Upgrade Information Post!

[flipflp]

I'm not sure if anyone has drawn up or found a pin out for the helix side of the harness, but like you said it's basically 4 pairs of black and red wires (so - black and + red).

For the Helix box, remember that it is also ported. There is a slot port next to the amp recess.

I've thought about upgrading subs in the helix box to something like the infamous Tang Band W5 sub (https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w5-1138smf-5-1-4-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-917) except it's only a 4 ohm SVC. Any other smaller subs are similarly wrong in spec, either dual 4ohm only or single 4 or 2ohm. Anything except for a pair of 2ohm DVC subs will half your output at least.

What you're talking about doing with putting the wires together won't work (the amp will not like that), and I don't believe traditional "bridging" of the helix amp will work. None of their documentation says anything about bridging, but it's not designed to do that. I doubt that feature was added to something that is such a specific DSP/Amp meant to be paired to one specific sub. Even the PP50/52 specs don't state anything about bridging the sub outputs. I'm 99% sure the Helix amps are setup as an 8 channel amp effectively (4 full range and 4 sub channels), with 2 ohms per channel being the lowest stable per channel.

Your best option? Buy an inexpensive mono amp with speaker level inputs and an auto turn on circuit. Pin out 2 of the helix sub outputs to the new amp and you're done. That does mean wiring power to your trunk, but that would put as much power to whatever woofer you'd want to use while still using the DSP.

 

[Erland]

Thanks for pointing out the slot/port, I totally missed that.
The wires to the subs aren't entirely red/black, two pairs are, the other pairs are grey/black. I'm not crazy about increasing the scope of the project too much, so I'll just stick with these subs for now.

I did find their spec sheet for the subs.
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/subwoofers/pp-72w-d
They don't recommend their use with a sealed enclosure, so I'm glad I didn't start gluing anything yet.
Recommended net volume is 15L with a 70mm diameter x 200mm long port, which comes pretty close to what I'd modeled/calculated.

 

[flipflp]

Thanks for pointing out the slot/port, I totally missed that.
The wires to the subs aren't entirely red/black, two pairs are, the other pairs are grey/black. I'm not crazy about increasing the scope of the project too much, so I'll just stick with these subs for now.

I did find their spec sheet for the subs.
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/subwoofers/pp-72w-d
They don't recommend their use with a sealed enclosure, so I'm glad I didn't start gluing anything yet.
Recommended net volume is 15L with a 70mm diameter x 200mm long port, which comes pretty close to what I'd modeled/calculated.

Thank you for the subwoofer spec sheet! That is actually a great find, I'll add that to the posts earlier in this thread. On that page BTW they have a harness picture, the wide positive connectors have grey on the wires, narrow connectors are all black. That is pretty universal with speakers what the wide and narrow pins mean.

I'll keep digging for a replacement sub, but I'm doubting that I'll find anything better that is plug and play. Those are a pretty damn robust driver that would probably just benefit from more amp.

The little Tang Bands would make a pretty good driver swap if you used an external amp that did 100x2 at 4ohms a channel. If you didn't check that link out, they have an Xmax of 9.25mm and F3 of 35hz in a 0.25 ft3 ported enclosure. They move some damn air for a 5.25" driver.

Edit: Apparently I didn't even look back and my own posts, here is the Helix wiring: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...e-information-post.346458/page-6#post-7060790

 

[Erland]

What I'm really after is the internal traces to those sub pinouts. I'd like to know if all 4 of the sub outputs are coming off shared traces or if they're being driven independently. Maybe I'll pull out my esd mat & strap and dig into it a bit tomorrow.

 

[flipflp]

What I'm really after is the internal traces to those sub pinouts. I'd like to know if all 4 of the sub outputs are coming off shared traces or if they're being driven independently. Maybe I'll pull out my esd mat & strap and dig into it a bit tomorrow.

Oh I gotcha, I don't think I've seen the insides of this unit or a match DSP. If you do that and find anything out, especially things like unsoldered connectors for a USB port, please post that here! Pictures are fun either way.

 

[Erland]

Oh I gotcha, I don't think I've seen the insides of this unit or a match DSP. If you do that and find anything out, especially things like unsoldered connectors for a USB port, please post that here! Pictures are fun either way.

I opened it up, but didn't pull it the board out to check the underside as they've got some bigger fets clamped/sinked to the sides of the case. Anyone hoping they just blanked the additional ports found on the PP52-DSP or any of the others in the line will be sad to know there's nothing there. You'll have to splurge for the PP-62DSP.

I built my new box matching their specs and it sounds good. I'd like to think it sounds better, but it's not so significant that I would recommend the process to anyone who isn't trying to keep their spare tire. I also wanted to tuck some extra emergency equipment under the floor and added a pocket for my cooler. Some of the best roads in my region don't have cell service, restaurants, or other people.

 

[southpawboston]

I opened it up, but didn't pull it the board out to check the underside as they've got some bigger fets clamped/sinked to the sides of the case. Anyone hoping they just blanked the additional ports found on the PP52-DSP or any of the others in the line will be sad to know there's nothing there. You'll have to splurge for the PP-62DSP.

I built my new box matching their specs and it sounds good. I'd like to think it sounds better, but it's not so significant that I would recommend the process to anyone who isn't trying to keep their spare tire. I also wanted to tuck some extra emergency equipment under the floor and added a pocket for my cooler. Some of the best roads in my region don't have cell service, restaurants, or other people.

Very clean!!!

 

[flipflp]

I opened it up, but didn't pull it the board out to check the underside as they've got some bigger fets clamped/sinked to the sides of the case. Anyone hoping they just blanked the additional ports found on the PP52-DSP or any of the others in the line will be sad to know there's nothing there. You'll have to splurge for the PP-62DSP.

I built my new box matching their specs and it sounds good. I'd like to think it sounds better, but it's not so significant that I would recommend the process to anyone who isn't trying to keep their spare tire. I also wanted to tuck some extra emergency equipment under the floor and added a pocket for my cooler. Some of the best roads in my region don't have cell service, restaurants, or other people.

Very cool, well done on the box/install! Thanks for posting the pictures.

Like you said, sadly nothing hidden going on inside the amp. Only thing I see is that 6 prong jumper lower middle that could be any fun. Otherwise it does just look like 2 "4 channel" amps, one on each side, with a DSP in the middle of it haha.

 

[Hammersticks]

@flipflp thanks for the info! Purchased over BF and just got around to installing in my wife’s egolf. I also used this video which I found helpful when he gets to the wiring part.

except the part where he says it’s okay to push the keys all the way in. I tried to not push them in but one got stuck and was a bitch to get out, despite the instructions. Other than that pretty uneventful. I could do it much quicker next time for sure but having this info was very useful. Thanks!

 

[flipflp]

Glad it was helpful! The Helix, especially with a solid discount, is well worth the DIY efforts.

With the keys, I've always just pushed them in until they click and then I've pulled up on the little clips/locks that they get stuck on from the side with the unit out. Then you're done with the keys at that point and you can just push the until back in without them.

 

[Jobema]

Thanks to everyone on this thread for the helpful information. I took the plunge this week and installed today. It was a relatively quick job, if you have the right tools.

Ordered the following from Amazon:

1. 18pcs auto terminals removal tool ($8)
2. AFA Tooling Replacement Radio Removal Tool (VW, MB and Audi) ($7)
3. Simple panel removal tool from the local auto store

I mounted the Helix above the spare tire (can't do without the spare) so ordered VW Part 1T0803899B ($10). I removed the feet from the subwoofer and everything fits solidly with the base on the high mount.

Used LastHumansGarage YouTube video (Ep 188) - went just as he demonstrated. Only add is that at 7:40 of his video, a connector for vehicle-side power appears (partially connected to the brown wire) that isn't visible in the Helix kit. The connector is actually in there, but snapped into a receiver (and not in the sequence it ultimately goes). I used his method of detaching the fuse instead of disconnecting the battery. Also didn't have any issue with the radio removal tools getting stuck (they need to click, and pushing the sides of the info unit releases them quickly). Really recommend this video.

Overall, took about 90 mins start to finish, does not require more than a basic knowledge of wiring and power.

Sound improvement is immediately noticeable - looking forward to coding.

For buying the system, I went with Volkswagen of Murrieta. Michael Smith in parts was great - easy order, prompt shipping, arrived in a couple of days. Paid $449 on the website, plus $33 FedEx shipping. Recommend them too.

 

[martian]

Hello, new to the site.
I'm prepping for this upgrade on an 18 Alltrack. My unit hasn't arrived yet but was wondering if anyone in the Kansas City area has the programming dongle? I know I'm getting the cart before the horse. The dealer I spoke with about the dongle seemed clueless of what I was asking about.
Something perhaps worth noting VW is offering a 10% rebate on accessories at the moment so you can get some money back on this purchase.
Pretty stoked to get this done and hoping not to jack anything up.
Thanks for the write-up
Cheers!!
Martian

 

[enrique71]

Does anyone know of a replacement plug-in-play amp to the Helix that provides subwoofer output level controls ? On the Helix base is controlled by the head unit to all 9 speakers, including the sub.

 

[flipflp]

Does anyone know of a replacement plug-in-play amp to the Helix that provides subwoofer output level controls ? On the Helix base is controlled by the head unit to all 9 speakers, including the sub.

The VW Helix does have a subwoofer level control, it's a very small screw pot next to the sub outs on the amp. It doesn't add a subwoofer control in the head unit like the fender, but there is still one there.

 

[enrique71]

The VW Helix does have a subwoofer level control, it's a very small screw pot next to the sub outs on the amp. It doesn't add a subwoofer control in the head unit like the fender, but there is still one there.

Thanks, I've played with that pot and I have it at around 50%. I noticed distortion all around if I raise it higher and up bass levels at the head unit. I'm looking for a solution that will allow good bass from the drivers and deep bass from the sub .. I can't seem to get this with the existing Helix setup. Thoughts ?