Helix Soundbox Upgrade Information Post!

[2013R]

Hi did look look at the videos, however they have the pins and plug on the four yellow and black wires on the harness which I'm missing so hence I don't know which of the yellow and black wires to allocate where.

I can only tell you about a US car. and the stock power plug which the helix yellow and black go into. The power (yellow OR red) in that case, goes on the outside of the harness, nearest the edge.

Before you plug your stock yellow/red and black into that tiny connector piece the Helix provides, you insert the harness correctly and figure out which wire goes in which hole to match up the power all the way thru

 

[Shaunn]

Thanks, But since my yellow and black wires are stripped, I need to know which of the pair powers the amp and which pair returns power back to the VW CD Player based on the Helix pin out diagram so I can trace them to the front. Just need to make sure I don't use the wrong pair just in case I blow the Amp.

 

[Strange Mud]

isolate wires, reconnect battery (or fuse) look for voltage. the live ones will be original feed to radio which after helix install goes to the amp, the other set will be new feed to radio.

95% sure

 

[zech912]

95%?!?!? I enjoyed that one strange mud.

 

[diliprajamani1]

Hello there, I installed the helix sub and the front passenger door speakers won’t work. I still have the tuning part pending but don’t know if that would fix this. Anyone had the same issue?

 

[flipflp]

Hello there, I installed the helix sub and the front passenger door speakers won’t work. I still have the tuning part pending but don’t know if that would fix this. Anyone had the same issue?

I would check the wiring harness/connectors and make sure everything is plugged in correctly and that nothing is damaged. Programming won't make specific speakers work or not work.

 

[Strange Mud]

+1 on double checking connections...

 

[diliprajamani1]

I would check the wiring harness/connectors and make sure everything is plugged in correctly and that nothing is damaged. Programming won't make specific speakers work or not work.

I did though, its all plug and play and there is no specific connections to any speakers its the whole block that needs to be re-wired. Any ways to check if the amp or the sub itself is faulty?

 

[Strange Mud]

I would see if someone local to you would do a quick test swap. New/wtty?

I have seen similar problems where the pins in connectors will push out when connecting and not really make contact

see if there is continuity between speaker channels (+/-) for each speaker.

Mud

 

[Strange Mud]

also check harness continuity

 

[flipflp]

My thought was just harnesses not being locked in or pins coming loose. There are a lot more connections with this setup and if you have a broken wire or loose pin that's one possibility.

 

[Strange Mud]

exactly

 

[diliprajamani1]

thanks for the responses, I tried them all with no luck. Any idea I could buy just the harness alone? Do you know the part number if VW did that?

 

[StealthGTI]

WOW! It's been a long time since you first reported this, both here and on my website. Just buy this $36 harness and rule out a wiring problem, the speakers, and your head unit almost immediately: https://www.1stvwparts.com/oem-parts/volkswagen-sound-box-sub-woofer-000051727b. If plugging-in this end-around cable resolves your problem, then you know the issue is either a faulty amp or a short on the subwoofer. Unplug the subwoofer from the amp to rule it out.

 

[Erland]

I think I've read through all 388 posts in this thread so far and haven't seen anything definitive on the Helix amp sub output wiring.

The technical data for the PP50DSP version of the amp says it's setup for their plug&play subwoofer at 2 Ohms, 1x160 or 4x40 RMS (double that for max). The VW Helix sub assembly is running in that 4x40 setup, each little sub is has two 1.9 Ohm voice-coils. The part number on each says "PP7 UP" making me think they're the same twin 7" subs in the Helix PP7E, even though the total diameter to the outside of the frame is only 6.25".
While I'm working out some numbers, the volume of the box (donut) is about 0.6 cubic feet.after subtracting the amp and speaker recesses.

Since I'm going to make a new box to retain the spare and leave the floor flush (spare+sub jacks it up 7-10mm with the feet removed), I'm wondering if I can run a single larger sub? Could I use a 2 or 4 Ohm speaker and combine and all 4 positive and all 4 negative wires? I'm kind of wondering if each pair of wires going to the subs is actually being pulled off the 4 left-right-front-rear channels.
I really don't want to open up the amp and check the traces.