Helix Soundbox Upgrade Information Post!

[flipflp]

Factory drivers (non-Fender) are stamped 4ohms, from the OP in this thread. I found that information from Crutchfield when they did a DIY/Install Guide.

If you get a component set that is 4 ohms combined, that *should* get you what you want.

I am a bit confused however about the factory wiring, since a single pair of wires go to each door and there is no crossover. You end up with both pairs of wires (mid range and A-pillar tweeter) coming together in the kick panels somewhere. Not sure what that means for the ohms the amp actually sees.

 

[2013R]

Factory drivers (non-Fender) are stamped 4ohms, from the OP in this thread. I found that information from Crutchfield when they did a DIY/Install Guide.

If you get a component set that is 4 ohms combined, that *should* get you what you want.

I am a bit confused however about the factory wiring, since a single pair of wires go to each door and there is no crossover. You end up with both pairs of wires (mid range and A-pillar tweeter) coming together in the kick panels somewhere. Not sure what that means for the ohms the amp actually sees.

I want to come down to a more granular level, I want 4 ohm for each indivudal speaker. if you got a set, you wouldnt use the passive crossover anyway. so someone has posted pics of the actual ohms for each individual speaker? I would find it pretty unusual if they were 4 ohm, but what do i know. every oem speaker i have ever seen was 2 ohm..

 

[username205]

I am a bit confused however about the factory wiring, since a single pair of wires go to each door and there is no crossover. You end up with both pairs of wires (mid range and A-pillar tweeter) coming together in the kick panels somewhere. Not sure what that means for the ohms the amp actually sees.

The most likely scenario is a full-range woofer paired with a tweeter that is filtered by a in-line capacitor.

I want to come down to a more granular level, I want 4 ohm for each indivudal speaker. if you got a set, you wouldnt use the passive crossover anyway. so someone has posted pics of the actual ohms for each individual speaker? I would find it pretty unusual if they were 4 ohm, but what do i know. every oem speaker i have ever seen was 2 ohm..

I'd be willing to dive deeper into this when I get back next month. With all of the quality, affordable drivers available from Dayton and Tang Band, squeezing a bit more SQ out of this Helix system shouldn't be terribly hard or expensive.

 

[flipflp]

I want to come down to a more granular level, I want 4 ohm for each indivudal speaker. if you got a set, you wouldnt use the passive crossover anyway. so someone has posted pics of the actual ohms for each individual speaker? I would find it pretty unusual if they were 4 ohm, but what do i know. every oem speaker i have ever seen was 2 ohm..

I thought there was a picture of the back of the midrange too, but here's the tweeter:

Would have to assume the midrange is 4 ohms as well, so they'd be 2 ohms nominal for the pair. You can also see the cap on the tweeter which goes to what username said about the wiring, which sucks for reusing the OEM wiring with a passive crossover unless you find the spot where that split occurs.

 

[username205]

I thought there was a picture of the back of the midrange too, but here's the tweeter:

Would have to assume the midrange is 4 ohms as well, so they'd be 2 ohms nominal for the pair. You can also see the cap on the tweeter which goes to what username said about the wiring, which sucks for reusing the OEM wiring with a passive crossover unless you find the spot where that split occurs.

Seems like that's the part number for the tweeter assembly, but having the number for the tweeter itself would be a little more helpful. I'll see if it can be disassembled.

As for reusing the OEM wiring, I'd just cut the wire about midway and add crimp connectors. This would make for a cleaner install when the new tweeter/capacitor go in, and reinstalling the original tweeter if I ever sell the car (unlikely) would be a snap.

 

[2013R]

The most likely scenario is a full-range woofer paired with a tweeter that is filtered by a in-line capacitor.


I'd be willing to dive deeper into this when I get back next month. With all of the quality, affordable drivers available from Dayton and Tang Band, squeezing a bit more SQ out of this Helix system shouldn't be terribly hard or expensive.

or even something in a Seas variety. Though I tried a lot of PartsExpress tweeters also, and always ended up liking my Focal TN52's the best..

 

[flipflp]

Seems like that's the part number for the tweeter assembly, but having the number for the tweeter itself would be a little more helpful. I'll see if it can be disassembled.

As for reusing the OEM wiring, I'd just cut the wire about midway and add crimp connectors. This would make for a cleaner install when the new tweeter/capacitor go in, and reinstalling the original tweeter if I ever sell the car (unlikely) would be a snap.

Not sure if there's going to be anything below the housing on the tweeter, maybe the supplier's PN? In any case, 4 ohms.

I think what I'm going to do with wiring is tap off the helix harness behind the headunit where the helix outputs are sent to the speakers, run all new pairs to the left and right doors and hide the crossover in the kick panels. That way I'm just running new wires to the door and a-pillar and not touching any wiring in the body harnesses.

 

[2013R]

Not sure if there's going to be anything below the housing on the tweeter, maybe the supplier's PN? In any case, 4 ohms.

I think what I'm going to do with wiring is tap off the helix harness behind the headunit where the helix outputs are sent to the speakers, run all new pairs to the left and right doors and hide the crossover in the kick panels. That way I'm just running new wires to the door and a-pillar and not touching any wiring in the body harnesses.

you have dealt with bringing new wires thru VW door grommets before, correct? the MK6 was a complete nightmare, and you had to drill out holes in the molex connector. I have heard the mk7 is a lot easier.

 

[flipflp]

you have dealt with bringing new wires thru VW door grommets before, correct? the MK6 was a complete nightmare, and you had to drill out holes in the molex connector. I have heard the mk7 is a lot easier.

I haven't, but if it ends up being that horrible then I'll just track down the pair from the door speaker and tap into that from the crossover. All this makes me want to just shove a 3k cap on the tweeter and a 150hz cap on the woofer and plug everything into the factory wiring and cross my fingers haha

 

[2013R]

I couldnt remember if it was my 2010, 2011 or 2013 which i did a system on. I finally realized it was my 2009..

 

[2013R]

Found the molex pixs getting wires into the doors.. i dont think its this hard on a MK7.. My 2009 was a MK5 I think. I can barely remember now.

 

[flipflp]

Yikes. I was thinking we had more wires than connector in that rubber boot. Aside from wanting to run some higher gauge wire, if that's what needs to be done that seems like a mess.

If that's what the door connector looks like then I'll probably just use the wires in the door and break into that at the kick panel. Won't be nearly as hard to run new wires to the tweeter from the crossover.

 

[2013R]

Updates with a fresh head.. as I learn how this system should be used.

The system is a hair better than I have been saying. (but i will always flash back to blank program if i learn how to do it.) The key is just listening to it at the proper 30-40% volume. The time I start disliking it is when i go 40-50% and it gets muddy. I do not feel this is fully a speaker issue, and I do not think different speakers will change this trait. I think its much more a tuning issue, the way it becomes muddier and harsh at 50%. I don't regard that issue as speakers breaking up. Also, new speakers will not change anything regarding the linear volume issue, assuming impedance is the same. New Scanspeak or Seas mids might help the sound, but I don't think it will solve everything.

Does anyone have a stock door speaker out of car to do the measurements? Mainly, do we want to source a 5.25" or a 6"? And what size adapter would we need to not hit the window, at least a 1" I imagine. Then you have to worry about the door card hitting the speaker also, and usually grind/cut away some fins on the door panel internal grill if needed.

* I found new programming codes released on some site linked around here, but i can't remember where it was. *

Attached 2 pics of one of my favorite woofers, the Pioneer TS-PRS720, a 6.5" with sub like frequencies. and the 1" HDPE spacer I made for it in my 2005 WRX.

 

[zech912]

you can stay with 5.25 but 6.5" works fine with an adaptor, I used the CDT FM-007 which is approx 1 1/8" depth and is designed perfectly for the GTI.

 

[2013R]

you can stay with 5.25 but 6.5" works fine with an adaptor, I used the CDT FM-007 which is approx 1 1/8" depth and is designed perfectly for the GTI.

Damn, $65-$70 for a set of CDT adapters.. $84 shipped from the only seller on Amazon.. pricey, but they are nice. Might be a better option than buying a $30 piece of HDPE and making my own.. cuz its nice and tapered, and perfect fit.

I would de-pin the stock speaker connector, just wrap wires around it for new speaker. then i could re-pin the stock connector later when i return it to stock.