Helix Soundbox Upgrade Information Post!

[flipflp]

Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad the post was helpful! I think I'll put an extra note about disconnecting your battery haha!

You'll definitely want to get the Helix programmed, just for peace of mind. I think a lot of dealers are reading the same information that others have seen as gospel, but I'm confident you'll hear an improvement with it manually programmed.

 

[Murf1]

Thanks for this tutorial flipflp, it was helpful. Some of my thoughts below after my install.

Installed my sub a couple of weeks ago and have been running un-programmed until recently. I can say with certainty that the unit was not set to 57 from the factory as the sound profile has changed dramatically.

Prior to programming, the mids and highs were very elevated and very little of the low frequencies seemed to be routed anywhere but the new sub. It sounded good but I had to turn mids almost all the way down and highs down 2 clicks. Bass was very strong but located almost entirely in the rear where the sub is.

After programming, the mids/highs are now much more subdued. Too the point where I would almost call it muddy. Low frequencies now emanate from the door speakers as well as the sub. Bass was too strong at this point so I turned the small gain screw on the amp to approx half-way while leaving the equalizer flat for lows. Still strongly present but much better.
The mids/highs, not sure what to think. It was actually clearer/crisper unprogrammed although way too harsh with the EQ flat. I now have the highs up about 4 clicks and the mids flat to try and compensate. I think the new DSP contour routes more lows to the door speakers at the expense of some airy soundstage. Still much better than stock but maybe I will play with some other DSP contours from the dongle.

I also discovered a sub-menu of volume in the headunit that allows you to increase the gain for aux and bluetooth. Mine were set to 'Quiet' and I moved them to 'Medium'. This boosted volume quite a bit and I dialed back my phone BT volume to about 80%. Now 50% volume or so is about as high as I can get without distortion/clipping. Not sure if it sounds any different overall but at least I dont feel like I'm overdriving any of the sources from BT stream through the amp.

Curious to see if anyone shares these experiences or has any tips.

**Had one retard level moment while adjusting the amp gain. I removed the screws holding the amp for easier access to the adjustment and dropped one of the mounting screws directly into the open vent on the bottom of the sub. I picked it up and tried shake it out but seems like it stuck to one of the speaker magnets, lol. Hopefully this sucker doesnt rattle or short anything out.

 

[yo_marc]

I removed the screws holding the amp for easier access to the adjustment and dropped one of the mounting screws directly into the open vent on the bottom of the sub. I picked it up and tried shake it out but seems like it stuck to one of the speaker magnets, lol. Hopefully this sucker doesnt rattle or short anything out.

I am a bit confused -- my Helix, and every one I have seen are sealed boxes. No ports. You don't mean the speaker grilles, do you?

 

[Murf1]

I am a bit confused -- my Helix, and every one I have seen are sealed boxes. No ports. You don't mean the speaker grilles, do you?

If you look in the recess where the amp sits, there is an opening on one side of that recessed box, goes right into interior of the sub. Some sort of tuned port.

 

[yo_marc]

I did not know that!

 

[Murf1]

Another interesting observation. Seems the box is set to 00 from the factory and once it's programmed you can't go back as there is no option to set back to 00 in the dongle.

 

[flipflp]

Another interesting observation. Seems the box is set to 00 from the factory and once it's programmed you can't go back as there is no option to set back to 00 in the dongle.

00 likely means unprogrammed, meaning you'd have to have a "delete" function in the dongle to be able to program back to nothing. That's just not a needed part of it's functionality, since you can overwrite just as easily if you were to move the Helix to a different vehicle.

 

[demi9od]

Are these normal codes for a Helix installed system?

 

[flipflp]

Are these normal codes for a Helix installed system?

Sorry I didn't see a notification for this question. I THINK (not sure) that because the helix turns off and on with a bit of a pop occasionally, the cars computer sees it as a fault or short. I see these codes intermittently on my car but I have confirmed all drivers are working with no static. I just ignore them now.

 

[dwkdnvr]

Has it been established that there is or is not any difference between 000051419B and 000051419? Asking since I'm picking up my new 17 GTI Sport on Monday, and my dealer has both listed on their parts site here https://parts.emichvw.com/accessori...munication---Electronics---Communication.html

I had originally asked my sales rep about the non-B version, and she said the Parts guy said that it wouldn't fit - I would have to go with the much more expensive B version. From the build reports it seems that many folks have B markings on their cables but not on the overall packaging, so I'm still not sure whether there are 2 versions or just a change in literature.

For $500 installed or $300 and a DIY install, the Helix makes sense. It doesn't make as much sense at 800 DIY/1000 installed. I'd be ok picking up the Unit off the 'net and doing the install, but this makes me slightly less confident that I'm not overlooking something.

 

[Murf1]

Has it been established that there is or is not any difference between 000051419B and 000051419? Asking since I'm picking up my new 17 GTI Sport on Monday, and my dealer has both listed on their parts site here https://parts.emichvw.com/accessori...munication---Electronics---Communication.html

I had originally asked my sales rep about the non-B version, and she said the Parts guy said that it wouldn't fit - I would have to go with the much more expensive B version. From the build reports it seems that many folks have B markings on their cables but not on the overall packaging, so I'm still not sure whether there are 2 versions or just a change in literature.

For $500 installed or $300 and a DIY install, the Helix makes sense. It doesn't make as much sense at 800 DIY/1000 installed. I'd be ok picking up the Unit off the 'net and doing the install, but this makes me slightly less confident that I'm not overlooking something.

I ordered the non-B unit and it was a perfect fit, no clue on the B version. Some parts sites actually list them together for the same price ie. 000051419/000051419B so I don't really believe there is a difference or its minor.

Get the non B, even with no current rebate offers you can find it for $265 or so shipped, really a no brainer upgrade for the price. If you follow the Youtube videos it really is an easy install. Took me 1.5 hours and I wasn't moving quickly.

Don't forget to program it after, makes a significant difference.

 

[flipflp]

^What he said.

I looked that up some time ago but couldn't figure out what was different with what looks like a superseded part number. Either way everyone that I'm familiar with their install purchased the non-B part that is advertised online. Unless you already have a Fender system, that part number works with all MIB-1 and MIB-2 MK7 Golf/GTI/Rs.

I guess it's totally possible that once the non-B part number is closed out, that a revised "B" part number could have some updates or improvements over the other kit. Would make sense considering how cheap the non-B part became, which is why we're all here haha. Bottom line if you buy the non-B number now, it works.

 

[Compuwhiz]

My Helix package arrived today from Quirk. Got the amp mounted, found a DIN removal kit at Walmart for $5 so I went ahead and pulled the head unit. Gotta find my trim tools and hopefully will get this installed by the weekend.

Installing it in a new 2017 Golf TSi Wolfsburg that I just bought a couple weeks ago. Does anyone know what that middle connector on the back of the MIB2 is used for? I removed the gray dust cover and it looks like a fiber optic transceiver is in that location (for Fender systems?)

I thought it was kinda neat that the high-level signal wires going from the HU back to the Helix amplifier are twisted-pair to help with noise rejection.

Anybody around the Triangle or Triad area in NC know which dealers might have a programmer? I figure if anyone does it would probably be Leith Volkswagen in Cary but I haven't confirmed.

 

[slider09]

The B version is for cars with MIB2 head units. Non B may have issues with these units hence the revised version.


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[demi9od]

My Helix package arrived today from Quirk. Got the amp mounted, found a DIN removal kit at Walmart for $5 so I went ahead and pulled the head unit. Gotta find my trim tools and hopefully will get this installed by the weekend.

Installing it in a new 2017 Golf TSi Wolfsburg that I just bought a couple weeks ago. Does anyone know what that middle connector on the back of the MIB2 is used for? I removed the gray dust cover and it looks like a fiber optic transceiver is in that location (for Fender systems?)

I thought it was kinda neat that the high-level signal wires going from the HU back to the Helix amplifier are twisted-pair to help with noise rejection.

Anybody around the Triangle or Triad area in NC know which dealers might have a programmer? I figure if anyone does it would probably be Leith Volkswagen in Cary but I haven't confirmed.

I'd come to Black Forrest Industries this Saturday for Octoberfest. I'll be there looking for a programming cable as well lol.

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