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Has anyone made their own cheap catted DP by buying catless and adding cheap cat?

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
Something tells me that this just isn't going to end well. Another problem I see is the flex section is so small it's turning the DP into a motor mount. Look at the flex section on the OEM DP or the Trackslag for a comparison.

https://www.trackslag.com/index.php
 

danbfree

Go Kart Champion
Location
Portland, OR suburbia
Car(s)
2017 Golf 1.8 TSI
Something tells me that this just isn't going to end well. Another problem I see is the flex section is so small it's turning the DP into a motor mount. Look at the flex section on the OEM DP or the Trackslag for a comparison.

https://www.trackslag.com/index.php
You missed the post where I am looking at another one that is twice as wide flex section, close to average, so I updated the first post to show this one. Much nicer and thicker turbo exit section and more flex section for sure. I've seen plenty out there but have zero intention of spending more than $300 for a catless, and this is now just a backup plan as I did find a deal on a MAP catted, I just have my doubts it's actually going to ship, I think it's a too good to be true deal. Trackslag is just a very much one exception with a weird giant flex section, I don't care about having some giant flex section on a car that doesn't have 500 lb/ft of torque.
1640540624200.png
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
seems like you strive for the cheapest initial investment. nothing wrong with that. I have some suspension hacks.

but in this case, you'll have a tough time in resale down the road,.even if it works out. might be better to find a used name downpipe with a gesi or hjs cat ...if I don't see it first :)
 

danbfree

Go Kart Champion
Location
Portland, OR suburbia
Car(s)
2017 Golf 1.8 TSI
seems like you strive for the cheapest initial investment. nothing wrong with that. I have some suspension hacks.

but in this case, you'll have a tough time in resale down the road,.even if it works out. might be better to find a used name downpipe with a gesi or hjs cat ...if I don't see it first :)
If I wanted the cheapest option I would have gotten a $150 catless and thrown on an O2 spacer and called it good. I think you also missed the part where I paid for a full on MAP catted DP, but honestly it was because I found a one-off listing for a new one for $450 from a small seller that was like someone bought one then never installed it kind of deal, but I'm now doubting it will ever ship. I simply don't want to drop $800 on what is likely minimal gains for the money, so I'm just exploring a backup option. Even the used ones out there seem to be $500+ specialty brand stuff.

GESI is just a brand, they offer G-Sport non compliant (like cheaper option on MAP) and some expensive compliant ones (MAP upgrade option). Since I have no intention of spending $900 on a full compliant one, I figure there are some ways to think outside the box on this too.

Anyway, I now have already invested in a gasket, clamp, O2 spacer and exhaust reducer all just sitting here now, so yeah, would be nice to get something, heh. I messaged the seller of the MAP I found but I'm not very optimistic as it's been almost 10 days now since I bought it on eBay and he hasn't shipped it yet. I'm not worried about getting my money back, but disappointed I couldn't get a quality piece like that at a good deal. There is the ARM one I could get for $442 but not sure it has great reviews. But I think the bottom line is I'm willing to compromise on full compliance and find the best blend of quality, clean enough not to smell bad and pass with O2 spacer and value.

That's why I was now leaning towards Depo Racing and a cheap cat. I'd certainly keep the stock piece to return car to stock later and could resell the aftermarket super cheap if it's decent. It's not too difficult of an install on FWD, especially since I do have a power impact wrench.

I hope that all kind of makes sense. Thing is, if I did go this route, I may as well spend a little more on a better quality 300 cell cat than a cheap 400 cell since the O2 sensor with spacer would be above the cat anyway, so may as well get actual gains instead of choking off with a quasi compliant 400 cell. Now I'm just wondering how long the body of the cat would need to be to attach the 76mm to 60mm reducer to the ends of it and connect the stock exhaust and save the entire catless extender piece if/when I sell it later.
 
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El_bigote_AJ

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas
Car(s)
2019 GTI bunny
Are you going to do the welding and fab work on your own or with a friend? Paying a shop
Will have some notable coat implications…. Adding a cat to a non catted pipe does take some work with fitting and refitting the pipe.

With the way I did it on my first DP we had to custom make/fit the hangers too so that was a good bit of work, at least with the depo you can just work at the back of that v band and avoid the hangers.

But between the full exhaust I built and DP it deff. Took al alarming amount of hours devoted to is since it was done one off.

I thought I read some people were fine/happy with the ARM DP *as far as fitment went.
 

danbfree

Go Kart Champion
Location
Portland, OR suburbia
Car(s)
2017 Golf 1.8 TSI
Hmm, I was thinking most DP's have a separate second piece that can either be a straight catless or catted section, that's why I mentioned that I'm curious what length body of cat I would need on my last reply right before yours. I did see the Depo was that way anyway, as well as a number of the off brand cheapies... Anyway, I'm really disappointed the seller of the MAP I bought off eBay for $450 hasn't shipped it nor replied to my messages and now the ARM went up $55 from when it was on special, dammit. But yeah, was going to have a shop at least switch out the 76 to 65mm reducer to my 76 to 60 but was also probably going to have them weld in a cat if I did the separate catless and added cat thing. Figured at $300 total in parts even paying for cat to be welded in would be cheaper than $500 catted ARM or I could just go catted CTS for $450 but that would still be more than catless+ cheap cat+ labor for them welded together.

Edit: I did find the ARM still for $447 HERE so that's probably the easiest way to go with just the swap out of reducer involved. Oh, and I found a coupon code and cash back available, so this is what I'm going to do if I don't receive/can cancel the eBay order.
 
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FB-GTI

Ready to race!
Location
MO
Car(s)
VW GTI -> Golf R
Well, removing any functioning cat is illegal to begin with, I think most people running catless don't give a damn. At least I want to run halfway clean, I'd just like to improve flow, move heat away from the engine bay, and not smoke/gas myself and others out while keeping overall emissions down. I have seen some legit gains in the JB4 thread with DP's catted or otherwise, so I dunno... As far as "you get what you pay for", well, that went out the window a while ago with Chinese labor, some items like a Magic/Majesty IC absolutely kick ass for the money, you just have to deal with a bit of fitment issues... As far as DP, I actually already purchased a MAP catted for 25% off from a one-off eBay listing and it has the G-sport 300 cell that is not compliant, but at least seems more legit than a $55 cat but, I ordered a week ago and it hasn't shipped so I'm already thinking it's some kind of scam as it's supposedly brand new from what I see *afterward* has bad ratings as a seller (they show his *buyer* rating upfront) so I'm just preparing to cancel my order and come up with plan B. Maybe I'll just gut the 2nd cat and do a res delete and call it good.
The problem with that analogy is that the Chinese intercooler performance is not dependent on the amount of washcoat and precious metals applied to it.
 

El_bigote_AJ

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas
Car(s)
2019 GTI bunny

danbfree

Go Kart Champion
Location
Portland, OR suburbia
Car(s)
2017 Golf 1.8 TSI
The problem with that analogy is that the Chinese intercooler performance is not dependent on the amount of washcoat and precious metals applied to it.
Cheap cats are mostly ceramic anyway, I really just don't care honestly. I'm just looking to knock out the vast majority of the smell and soot. With so many enthusiasts not giving a damn at all about any of that and running catless, well, at least I'm trying to be considerate. Also, the one I was looking at wasn't quite as cheap as others, claims to have precious metals and has a 5 year/50k warranty at least but everyone likes to express their opinions without even looking/considering any of that either, but what you say does make sense overall.
 
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danbfree

Go Kart Champion
Location
Portland, OR suburbia
Car(s)
2017 Golf 1.8 TSI

El_bigote_AJ

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas
Car(s)
2019 GTI bunny
So you mean one that started catless and you added a cat to it? I certainly have heard of you and I appreciate your input and offer, I think I'll try to get that if I can get the flakey seller MAP order cancelled!
Yeah it’s an eBay Catless that he cut the shitty sealing "slip fit" section off and added a v-band, and then would have as to cut the hangers off then weld the flowmaster cat in place and weld the hangers to that.
 

danbfree

Go Kart Champion
Location
Portland, OR suburbia
Car(s)
2017 Golf 1.8 TSI
Yeah it’s an eBay Catless that he cut the shitty sealing "slip fit" section off and added a v-band, and then would have as to cut the hangers off then weld the flowmaster cat in place and weld the hangers to that.
Nice! At this point I'd just like to save the money and get something proven to work and fit well, I'm not worried about a little surface rust as though it does snow a bit up here we don't use salt on the roads much at all so I'm sure it would be fine and not get any worse.
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Yeah it’s an eBay Catless that he cut the shitty sealing "slip fit" section off and added a v-band, and then would have as to cut the hangers off then weld the flowmaster cat in place and weld the hangers to that.

This, a buddy asked me to build his friend a cheap catted downpipe as a birthday present and enough people on the forums liked the idea that I eventually borrowed it back to build a weld fixture around and I sold them till my skill set developed enough to justify building my own proprietary design from scratch.

For what it’s worth that very first one is still on the road today, I did a pull with Jose on the way to work a few weeks ago (not fair, he hasn’t upgraded his turbo yet).
https://youtube.com/shorts/DsCx96HHvyg?feature=share
Nice! At this point I'd just like to save the money and get something proven to work and fit well, I'm not worried about a little surface rust as though it does snow a bit up here we don't use salt on the roads much at all so I'm sure it would be fine and not get any worse.

For $200 it’ll bolt right up and fit like a glove, which you can’t say for most sub-1k downpipes.
 
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