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Half Fast’s GTI

Mini7

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Did you get some dry track time yesterday?

Would appreciate some photos of the 3R wear and opinion on track performance. Braking performance and turn in grip/steering feel?
 

Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
Did you get some dry track time yesterday?

Would appreciate some photos of the 3R wear and opinion on track performance. Braking performance and turn in grip/steering feel?
I got about 3 sessions in. Unfortunately, I sent the tires back with my father since I'm moving in a few weeks. I'll see if I can get him to snag a picture though.

But, the tires were great. The car didn't dance around under braking at all, and there is plenty of opportunity for it to do that—the end of the back straight is a downhill brake zone without much grip (the track is so polished that you can see the reflection of the cars in front of you off the pavement when it's dry), and turn 11 (9 for the pro course) is a place where it's tough to get the car straight into the brake zone. At 11 in particular, this is the first time I've really been able to go through that braking zone with any real steering lock at all. The Race Cars TM actually come through there in a gradual arc, and I've never really been able to do that on street/200TW tires without the car getting all out of shape. However, I was able to get into the ABS somewhat easily at the end of the back straight. It's really hard to overstate how smooth the track is there (the rain line through there is to brake on the middle/inside of the track, then drive out to the outside for turn in) and it rained pretty hard and washed off any rubber that would have been put down, but that did surprise me a little. So, YMMV.

The tires have also have a bit more feedback than I expected, which was nice since I've only run street tires for the last 10 years or so. It was a little weird without the tires yelling at me the whole way around, but there was a little noise in the slower corners. They were also very predictable when the car started to slide. The tires felt great on turn in. Certainly better than the Nexens I just had on the car, which were a little vague on turn in. I was definitely over slowing the car going into corners for most of the weekend out of habit.

As far as wear, The fronts wore mostly even all the way across (based on my recollection when I pulled them off). I'd say I have 3 full days on them between the 5 days I've taken them to the track and been rained on, and after rotating them, I could easily get at least 3 more days out of the set. I don't remember how the rears looked, but presumably they look less worn. Also, the tires lasted an entire half hour session and never got greasy or anything. They do take at least a full lap to get up to temperature, but there's nothing wrong with that.
 

Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
Aux Radiator Install

We were kind of in a hurry to get this in as we were doing it the evening before we were headed out to the track, so I didn't stop and take as many pictures as I would have liked. But, I have a few, and there are a few things that I'd do differently if I were to do it again.

To start, you take the bumper cover off and drain the coolant by disconnecting the hose on the passenger side of the radiator. I have a CSF radiator installed that allegedly has a drain plug in it somewhere, but I couldn't find it and you have to disconnect that hose anyway.

Next, you want to get the front cooling stack/bumper into the service position. So, take a bolt out on each side, put in longer bolts to support everything, then take the other three out. If you pull everything toward you a little, it makes it easier to see what cables need to be disconnected on either side. Just don't pull so much that you rip any of them apart. Then move the long bolt you have on the driver's side over to the passenger side and swing everything over.


7B9EAF67-AF9E-43BA-9AB4-981F23E931C1.jpg

B5653759-2910-45E8-A216-CC26798A8D15.jpg


Now to the hard part. Putting the radiator itself in is pretty straightforward. There are two studs on the car that the bracket hangs on, and one stud on the bracket itself that gets a nut on it from the other side. There's a hole in the bracket that you run the hoses through. The duct clips right on. You will (probably) have to loosen the nut on the horn and spin the horn around so that you can clip it on. Also, you'll have to reroute the wire for the horn because the bracket goes over the top of where it runs originally.

As I mentioned before, you need 3 grommets to install the radiator. There is one on the top as well. But, if you only ordered two like me you can use a shift rod bushing from a Mk1 GTI as it's pretty much the same size. Everyone just has some of those laying around, right?

4879F31C-9845-4CED-93FD-66CF7B6BCF32.jpg


You'll have to take the fan shroud off to mount the hard cross tube. It mounts as far as you can get it towards the passenger side of the car.

5F34C464-2488-4765-98C8-7664D279C453.jpg


The hose from the water pump coupler to the cross tube took more time than the rest of the install combined. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the hose is different sizes on each end. It's 18mm on the water pump end (I'm 95% sure...I did measure it, but I forgot to make a note) and 15mm on the side to the hard line (99% sure of this one...I measured the hard line to buy a generic hose that I intended to use here). It's also a really tight bend, so I did a lot of trial and error cutting off more and more until I could get the hose on without it kinking in the bend. If I were to do this again with all factory parts (hold that thought) I would probably just buy the factory hose assembly. The hose also can't stick up too high, or it'll be against the hood.

6FDE7888-7F13-4785-833F-D53A2654AB65.jpg


(Forgot to take a picture after I finally got it on, because it was getting dark and there were many mosquitoes.)

You'll also want to put something around the hose because it's going to be up against the fan shroud.

If I were to do this again, I think I would put some kind of 15mm to 18mm adapter in place of the hard line. You have to drill holes to mount the hard line anyway, and a shorter adapter of some kind that goes into the OEM hose from the aux radiator would give you more flexibility to get a generic 18mm hose in there. The longer path for that hose from the water pump to the adapter would also make it easier to make that bend without worrying about kinking. Otherwise, I'd spend the $180 or whatever to just buy the OEM hose assembly.

Also, I'm not sure if someone else has looked into this, but I might swap out the fan shroud altogether for the R shroud. The GTI shroud is a bit thicker, which makes that bend even tighter for that hose. Also, with the CSF radiator and Unitronic intercooler, the shroud has already been pushed back into the engine bay a bit. I had to put some sleeves on the charge pipe on the driver's side and one of the AC lines. The R shroud has 2 fans, so I'm not sure what all it would take to make that work.

After that, you can put it all back together. As I mentioned above, I tried to get away with just using a fog light grill to get air into the radiator, but it doesn't line up. So, I ended up just drilling holes into the bumper. I'll clean it up a bit some other time. I probably won't bother with an R bumper. I don't mind the holes so much, especially once I get them cleaned up. And, the bumper plus paint is money I'd rather spend on other things. Also, my car has over 100k on it, and a freshly painted bumper would look a bit out of place I think.

1A1A12EA-4377-4662-8257-8091E958E354.jpg

57EB733F-BDAE-4819-B12C-4DA2A1890148.jpg
 

Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
Aux Radiator Parts List

Bracket5Q0-121-093-FD
Air Duct5G0-117-334-C
Rubber Mounting Bushing (x3)4D0-317-867-A
Washer for bottom of radiator (x2)N90225901
Bolt for bottom of radiator (x2)N10471802
Nuts for Bracket (I just used some generic nuts and washers; you need 3 of each, don't have the PN for washers)N-907-611-02
Hose from Radiator to Hard Line5Q0-121-101-N
Hose from Aux Rad to Main Rad5Q0-121-051-K
Coupler to Main Rad5Q0-122-291-DS
Coupler to Thermostat Housing5Q0-122-291-CT
Clamps (think I used 4)N90687001
Hard Pipe5Q0-121-070-AP
Upper Coolant Hose (I didn't actually order this, so I'd double check this PN)5Q0-122-101-CJ

I also used a CSF radiator, which went in great. Can't imagine it's much different with an OEM part. Didn't want to do this more than once, and it looks much less straightforward to put in the aux radiator on the other side.
 

Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
In other news, I'm going to have to get a catch can. I've run without one for the last 5 years because I wasn't losing any oil or having any problems, and I didn't want to have to worry about it in the winter. But, the car was mostly stock until the beginning of last season, and then I didn't have real tires until this year. The suspension and better tires had me leaving full clouds of smoke going over 11 at Mid Ohio (enough that I couldn't see behind me).

I'm hesitant to start another catch can thread, but I'm interested in thoughts regarding one that supplements the factory PCV system or just replaces it (i.e. APR/VWR). I'm leaning towards the ECS can because 1) it's less expensive; 2) it can be easily bypassed in the winter; and 3) I had the intake manifold off at 85k and the valves were actually pretty clean. I could also take it easier through the back section of the track and the factory system wouldn't get overwhelmed, so it seems to work fine in general (which is the consensus it seems). I'm also moving to NYC where I probably won't drive the car much in the winter (or in general, outside of real travelling/track weekends) so I don't want to have to worry about short trips that don't get the engine warm enough. Obviously, don't want to overdo it on short trips in general, but I don't want to run to the store or something real quick and then have the lines freeze.
 

Mini7

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Aux Radiator Parts List

Bracket5Q0-121-093-FD
Air Duct5G0-117-334-C
Rubber Mounting Bushing (x3)4D0-317-867-A
Washer for bottom of radiator (x2)N90225901
Bolt for bottom of radiator (x2)N10471802
Nuts for Bracket (I just used some generic nuts and washers; you need 3 of each, don't have the PN for washers)N-907-611-02
Hose from Radiator to Hard Line5Q0-121-101-N
Hose from Aux Rad to Main Rad5Q0-121-051-K
Coupler to Main Rad5Q0-122-291-DS
Coupler to Thermostat Housing5Q0-122-291-CT
Clamps (think I used 4)N90687001
Hard Pipe5Q0-121-070-AP
Upper Coolant Hose (I didn't actually order this, so I'd double check this PN)5Q0-122-101-CJ

I also used a CSF radiator, which went in great. Can't imagine it's much different with an OEM part. Didn't want to do this more than once, and it looks much less straightforward to put in the aux radiator on the other side.
Great write-up! This is really helpful for those chasing cooling issues on tuned engines. I have added prices from ECS Tuning. Folks may find a cheaper source for these OEM parts. I couldn’t find the upper coolant hose ending in CJ. Found 5Q0-122-101-DR for an R-manual 6-speed

Aux Radiator Parts List
Bracket5Q0-121-093-FD74.60
Air Duct5G0-117-334-C20.36
Rubber Mounting Bushing (x3)4D0-317-867-A9.18
Washer for bottom of radiator (x2)

N90225901
0.99
Bolt for bottom of radiator (x2)N104718021.76
Nuts for Bracket (I just used some generic nuts and washers; you need 3 of each, don't have the PN for washers)N-907-611-02
Hose from Radiator to Hard Line5Q0-121-101-N38.97
Hose from Aux Rad to Main Rad5Q0-121-051-K26.85
Lower Radiator Hose (incl. COUPLER BELOW & COOLING SENSOR)5Q0122051EG114.19
Coupler to Main Rad5Q0-122-291-DS150.72
Upper Coolant Hose (incl. SHORT ELBOW HOSE & COUPLER BELOW)5Q0-122-101-DR115.71
Coupler to Thermostat Housing5Q0-122-291-CT35.98
Clamps (think I used 4)N906870014.34
Hard Pipe5Q0-121-070-AP49.85
DSG Cooler/Auxiliary RadiatorES#3675299499
OEM Auxiliary Radiator

The upper hose assembly appears to have that short elbow hose you are referring too. And it also has the coupler that mounts to the thermostat/water pump.

1626837430869.png



The lower hose is definitely the way to go as it has the coupler and temp sensor, along with a new hose and is cheaper than the coupler alone.
1626837716700.png
 
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Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
I ended up just using a clamp on the hose that I ran to the thermostat coupler. Might not be the "right" way, but it works just as well I'd think. But, for $115, I'd probably go that route. Though, the 15mm to 18mm adapter option is something that I'd research a bit if I were to do this again, given that it might save you $100+ and the "stock" hose (at least as I recreated it, so the correct hose might fit better) is up against the fan housing. Also, it's probably possible to find a hose through Gates or something that is close enough to what you need. I was talking to a few oldtimers about the issue I had and they recalled that there is a straight hose that has different size openings on Mk1 GTIs that could probably be cut up to fit. I got the CJ part number from a parts diagram from some foreign website, so who knows.

I actually remember you posting about the lower hose coming with the coupler and being cheaper under a different PN, and I'm kicking myself for not remembering that before I ordered everything. But, it's all paid for and installed now. Certainly isn't the first time I spent more money than I needed to, and it won't be the last.

Also, not that it makes a huge difference, but the CSF radiator comes with the lower radiator bolts. So, if you pay the extra $300 for that, you can offset a couple bucks of it by not ordering those bolts.
 

Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
Also uploaded a video of my fast lap from the weekend. Definitely over slowing the car in spots—could carry more speed with the tires than I am. Also kept experimenting with lines through the keyhole to no avail. The concrete they put down has more grip than anywhere else on the track so I kept trying to use more of it, but it's still better to hang the car out wide on entry. As that's the corner before the back straight, there's definitely some time there that I left on the table. Guess I'll just have to try again when I go back.

 

Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
Was at Nelson Ledges this past weekend and killed my Goodyear 3Rs. Tire I had on the front left ended up delaminating. I think that it was partially my fault in that I didn't have the pressures right the first few sessions I used them. They ended up wearing on the shoulder pretty heavily and where the tread block comes to the shoulder of the tire ended up coming apart. I'll probably try them one more time and see if I can adjust the pressures to keep that from happening. Otherwise, the tires need more camber. I'm already at 2.5 degrees on the front, so I'm not sure how much more camber I'd want to put on a car that I drive on the street.

In the meantime I have a set of take off slicks that I'm going to run next. My Apex wheels are finally due to arrive this Thursday, and I have an event at Mid Ohio at the end of the month. I'm looking forward to testing that set up out.
 

Mini7

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Just saw this.
What cold pressures were you running? What were your pressures hot?
-2.75 is the max I’ve run on the street but is sound like you need more camber than that. These tire must provide a LOT of grip.
How do they ”feel” on turn in? Curious how responsive they are to steering inputs?
 

Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
So the first day I ran them was with a wet track in the morning. The only thing I could find with them online was with people running them in Camaros (forgot to look into it until the day of, so I was scrambling on my phone to find some info) and shooting for 40 hot. Since it was cold and wet, I had the tires at like 35 cold. That’s way too high. As it dried out I really did some damage to the tires. The shoulder was basically worn at an angle and I could already feel where the tread ended, if that makes sense.

After that I was going for about 33-35 hot. Not too sure that was right. But the tires had a ton of grip and felt great. None of the “vague” turn in that I head with my last couple sets of 200TW tires. I ran some 280 TW street tires in the morning session at one event and then put the 3Rs on and I was 3-4 seconds a lap faster without pushing too hard. Only real issue is they really need a full lap and then some to warm up.
 

Mini7

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Ive read that they need 1-2 laps to build heat before they provide any grip. They act like slicks in that regard. I’d imagine on cold mornings it would be worse. Not a good street tire but gets the job done on track.

The tire seems to provide the steering response I’m looking for. And by all accounts it’s a fast tire. Arguably better than Cup2’s. With having run either, I cannot comment but m interested in the GY 3R’s.
 

Mini7

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
BTW how are your oil and coolant temps With the new setup?
 

Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
I’ll almost certainly try them again. But the takeoffs for $600ish a set is appealing if they work out well. That’s what I paid for the 3Rs after the discount and rebate, but I could at least leave those on to drive to the hotel and dinner during the weekend. I also had them on for a few thousand street miles (was moving, didn’t have another set of wheels with me).

I’ve not had any issues with temps. At the track in July with ambient around 90 the coolant got to about 227, but never any higher. Oil temps stayed in the 260s. On the interstate, the oil temps barely get to 220.
 
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