GTI w/ VWR springs: noise when turning, please help!

[Billyescopetas]

The strut position vs the bearing position is unique, there is effectively one nerve that can only fit in one place.

By the way, does someone know exactly the torque spec for each bolt? Mainly the top strut bolt and the three bolts. I would like to double check personally if there is something loose..


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[TJN]

The strut position vs the bearing position is unique, there is effectively one nerve that can only fit in one place.

By the way, does someone know exactly the torque spec for each bolt? Mainly the top strut bolt and the three bolts. I would like to double check personally if there is something loose..


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The top nut is 60 nm. Top three bolts is 15nm +90°

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[Billyescopetas]

Well just writing to thank all of you for your valuable comments and suggestions but I will leave it as it is for the moment. It's been 6 months already with the noise and have no clue how to fix it and not willing to take it to the dealer since I modified the suspension. I also invested too much money in investigating the issue so it's time to have a break. Please let me know if someone fixes it one day


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[njavier03]

Sucks that you still haven't found and answer OP. I'm having VWRs installed tomorrow with new hardware and new OEM bearings. I've read that the 034 mounts are causing noises as well, so I decided to keep the stock mounts. The shop that's installing mine recommended the same.

As for my guess, it can't be the springs. You've gone through two different sets, and experienced the same noise. The springs themselves don't show any sign of wear. The sound isn't quite loud and is only at low speed or idle. I doubt it has to do with the mounts, bc you should hear the noise at all speeds and turns. The clunk would also be louder. Unfortunately, I don't have any other suggestions that what has already been mentioned, sorry...

 

[Sandman GTI]

The top nut is 60 nm. Top three bolts is 15nm +90°

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Question on this.
I understand torque to 15nm the rotate 90deg more, what is the torque number at the end of the 90deg turn? If I go to check if bolts are tight what would I check? 15nm would not be correct I think. The nm would be much higher.
If I check the torque and it is 15nm then does this mean the bolts did not receive the 90deg turn? If I loosen and retighten to check, should new bolts be used? These are stretch bolts correct?
Thanks.


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[TJN]

Question on this.
I understand torque to 15nm the rotate 90deg more, what is the torque number at the end of the 90deg turn? If I go to check if bolts are tight what would I check? 15nm would not be correct I think. The nm would be much higher.
If I check the torque and it is 15nm then does this mean the bolts did not receive the 90deg turn? If I loosen and retighten to check, should new bolts be used? These are stretch bolts correct?
Thanks.


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Correct, they are stretch bolts. I don't know what the torque value would be after 90 degree turn. Once you go past 15 nm, the bolts are stretching at that point. Replacing those didn't do anything for me as far as clunking noise. I'd rather recommend checking the top nut to make sure it is torqued to 60nm. I used the air gun originally which way over torqued them. I loosened them and retorqued to correct value.

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[RennWerks]

Correct, they are stretch bolts. . . . I used the air gun originally which way over torqued them. I loosened them and retorqued to correct value.

Maybe. If you in fact "way over torque" a bolt," re-torquing it to the correct value may no longer be possible. In this regard, even those who argue that stretch bolts can be reused -- and there's a good deal of debate concerning that -- there's some agreement that once a bolt, any bolt, has been torqued beyond 80% of its set strength, it cannot thereafter be correctly re-torqued and should be replaced, depending of course on what's being held in place. (Head bolts: never a good idea; wheel nuts and bolts: happens daily, a fact taken into account by those who manufacture them.)

 

[TJN]

Maybe. If you in fact "way over torque" a bolt," re-torquing it to the correct value may no longer be possible. In this regard, even those who argue that stretch bolts can be reused -- and there's a good deal of debate concerning that -- there's some agreement that once a bolt, any bolt, has been torqued beyond 80% of its set strength, it cannot thereafter be correctly re-torqued and should be replaced, depending of course on what's being held in place. (Head bolts: never a good idea; wheel nuts and bolts: happens daily, a fact taken into account by those who manufacture them.)

I loosened and re-torqued top nuts. I did replace the top strut bolts.

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[Davespeed]

Another important step. I forgot to mention this. I had to watch the DA video to remember this:

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This...... Most common installation mistake. I've done it and I've owned and wrenched on VAG for almost 30yrs. The lowering springs is shorter and does not retain the relationship of the mount and bearing like the OEM spring does. During reinstallation of the strut the bearing slipped out of the mount and made my noise. Sounds like the a pillar interior trim is rubbing against the chassis. Threw it back on the lift and felt the bearing was out of the mount.

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[njavier03]

Just had my VWRs installed with the stock mounts (28k miles), new bearings, and new hardware. So far, no sounds whatsoever.


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[Billyescopetas]

Hi again!! Updates:

- The noise is still there... definetely more noticeable with warmed engine. Here is a new video I did yesterday: https://youtu.be/qOGc1BjQe8w

- I now hear a "new" noise. I don't think it's related to spring issue above. This is a metallic noise only audible at low speeds (around 20 km/h) when I go through a small road surface change (lets say 2 or 3 cm height). I think hear in my feet on driver side... maybe front arm bushings went away already?? There is no other situation I hear this noise... the car runs smoothly in any other situation.. no noise at bigger holes, or uneven surfaces.... https://youtu.be/FeSO3zkhf3M

Any clue friends??? I'm very disappointed with this car... only changed springs and so many issues with 42.000 km on the clock...


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[Hoon]

Pop off the plastic pieces above the strut tower, pop the cap that covers the center strut nut, and put your hand on the strut mount/nut.

Have someone else turn the wheel. You should be able to immediately feel whether or not it's coming from the top of the strut mount...which is my guess.

If it is, either the spring isn't seated correctly or the bushing is worn. I can't really think of anything else that would cause that noise if everything is torqued to spec.

You could try a shot of silicone spray on it also, after you have established that the strut bushing is healthy and the spring is seated correctly.

 

[Billyescopetas]

Pop off the plastic pieces above the strut tower, pop the cap that covers the center strut nut, and put your hand on the strut mount/nut.

Have someone else turn the wheel. You should be able to immediately feel whether or not it's coming from the top of the strut mount...which is my guess.

If it is, either the spring isn't seated correctly or the bushing is worn. I can't really think of anything else that would cause that noise if everything is torqued to spec.

You could try a shot of silicone spray on it also, after you have established that the strut bushing is healthy and the spring is seated correctly.

Thanks for the input. Every single bolt was rechecked and re-torqued. Bearing and top mount are brand new (the thirds my car uses...) so I think that the CLONk noise of the second video could be discarded being from suspension body. Won't a faulty front arm bushing do that? It feels likew with such a minor road surface change the suspension is not even absorbing.. and It feels there is some play somewhere. Important thing is that the loud noise is heard in similar road surface change, but not on normal road holes or bad country roads

 

[nate704]

I guess you either have to live with the noise, or back to the oem spring and hassle free. The car was not designed to be used with aftermarket lowering springs in the first place.

 

[carlos330181]

I had this exact issue happen on my MK6 R and VW Racing springs. I could not get the popping / binding noise to dissappear. Solution, don't mess with suspension if clunks and popping noises affect you.