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Golf R Haldex Part Number & Cost?

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
Here's the response I sent someone who PM'd me yesterday:

I bought the pump but never installed. Not sure if mine ever failed but I did get that code. After I primed the haldex pump via OBD11 the car seemed to launch better and the code never came back. I never primed after swapping fluid for regular maintenance so that may have been my issue.

I've researched this and it seems there are different ways to prime or reset the pump. All of these ways seemed to work for one person or another it seems. Facebook Groups seem to have the most info I've seen.

In VCDS I think you do this or one of these:

(22) AWD -> Basic Settings or Output Tests or Adaptation?

Then you can reset all adaption values and/or prime the pump.

Here is a video doing it one of the ways I believe:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwN9xmd8G-4
 

Mosquito

Go Kart Newbie
Location
FL
The procedure does seem to help getting things back inline and can be done at anytime. It does seem specially important after haldex fluid/pump maintenance however in GenV the output procedure isn't automatic as shown (at least not yet) so I do it manually.

I wish this was better documented in VCDS and OBD11.

My preferred method is:

Engine on
1. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Pump Prime for 30 seconds
It seems to make a humming noise and then seems to purge. Sound is an alive indicator. I've found nothing else to diagnose a pump without taking it out, so this is how I test the pump twice a month.

After fluid change, I do this 2-3 times with 1 minute intervals done on level ground.

For drain, I prime the pump level prior to so that as much gunk is attached to the screen and I am able to clean it when I remove the pump for haldex fluid change, what isn't there is hopefully drained with the rest of the fluid. I drain at an angle btw, but fill level

2. (22) AWD -> Output Tests -> Clutch Engaged/Disengaged
2 times for 30 seconds each.

Ignition on, Engine off
3. (22) AWD -> Clear codes (even if none are present)

4. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Clear all adaptation values

5. Drive off, no launches for a few miles or so.

1 Seems to work perfect in VCDS, but on OBD11 it runs and won't stop
2. Seems to work perfect in OBD11, but I cannot get it to run on VCDS
3 & 4 work on both VCDS & OBD11.

With all that said. I have a 17' MK7R w/ UM Haldex tune and the Haldex does seem to get lazy sometimes.
 

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
The procedure does seem to help getting things back inline and can be done at anytime. It does seem specially important after haldex fluid/pump maintenance however in GenV the output procedure isn't automatic as shown (at least not yet) so I do it manually.

I wish this was better documented in VCDS and OBD11.

My preferred method is:

Engine on
1. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Pump Prime for 30 seconds
It seems to make a humming noise and then seems to purge. Sound is an alive indicator. I've found nothing else to diagnose a pump without taking it out, so this is how I test the pump twice a month.

After fluid change, I do this 2-3 times with 1 minute intervals done on level ground.

For drain, I prime the pump level prior to so that as much gunk is attached to the screen and I am able to clean it when I remove the pump for haldex fluid change, what isn't there is hopefully drained with the rest of the fluid. I drain at an angle btw, but fill level

2. (22) AWD -> Output Tests -> Clutch Engaged/Disengaged
2 times for 30 seconds each.

Ignition on, Engine off
3. (22) AWD -> Clear codes (even if none are present)

4. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Clear all adaptation values

5. Drive off, no launches for a few miles or so.

1 Seems to work perfect in VCDS, but on OBD11 it runs and won't stop
2. Seems to work perfect in OBD11, but I cannot get it to run on VCDS
3 & 4 work on both VCDS & OBD11.

With all that said. I have a 17' MK7R w/ UM Haldex tune and the Haldex does seem to get lazy sometimes.

Wow, great info here! I'm going to copy this and posted on Vortex where there is member having Haldex issues. Hopefully this helps him and he's not too far gone!
 

MDLBC

Ready to race!
Location
NYB
My preferred method is:

Engine on
1. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Pump Prime for 30 seconds
It seems to make a humming noise and then seems to purge. Sound is an alive indicator. I've found nothing else to diagnose a pump without taking it out, so this is how I test the pump twice a month.

After fluid change, I do this 2-3 times with 1 minute intervals done on level ground.

For drain, I prime the pump level prior to so that as much gunk is attached to the screen and I am able to clean it when I remove the pump for haldex fluid change, what isn't there is hopefully drained with the rest of the fluid. I drain at an angle btw, but fill level

1 Seems to work perfect in VCDS, but on OBD11 it runs and won't stop.



Great info. Curious how you would get it to stop if you only have an OBD Eleven.
 

Mosquito

Go Kart Newbie
Location
FL
In OBD11 I've had to resort to turn off the car, but I don't like doing it that way. It will run, purge, run again, purge and doesn't seem to stop so I turn it off when I feel it may get damaged.

I've asked Ross-tech before if there is a Haldex test or reset procedure comparable to the DSG Reset, but so far there isn't one they are aware of.

It is unfortunate that there is little actual information on these Haldex options/tools/settings but the fact that on either system (VCDS or OBD11) they seem to partially work tells me that even for them, information may be limited.

I don't claim to have it down, but by using the above process I figure.1. An unclogged, working and fluid filled pump won't burn out. 2. A primed pump "assures" pressure and that assures the haldex clutch packs can open and close as needed before I drive off. If 1 or 2 are failing to do their part the result will sooner or later be a damaged haldex. I've yet to log requested vs actual pressure. I don't even know if the module reports that.

I figured, the multiple primes can stress the pump. That in itself is a test, if it is due to fail I rather it be then and there where a replacement will cost $100+ vs a much more expensive part like the haldex clutches. Ideally there should be a way to log pressure, but I hear that Haldex modules are typically rather "dumb" and don't offer much feedback compared to the ECU/TCU.
 

marc5800

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ottawa
Awesome info. Lately these seem to fail more often..? I dunno what gives (well obviously the pump in most cases). Bad design?

So priming the pump via OBD11 can help resolve the AWD malfunction error code?

Should priming the pump be done ever so often? I only have OBD11 and don’t want to put unnecessary stress on it if it’s not needed. Should this procedure only be used when doing the Haldex service?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Mosquito

Go Kart Newbie
Location
FL
Honestly I am not sure.
I think that when you start getting the error code, it may already be too late. It doesn't seem like the error is generated just because of the pump, but rather a consequence of the damage to the haldex due to the pump. The above process may or may not allow you to see if things are working correctly, I would think it would whether during a service or not. An automated self test with an ending OK would be nice, but there doesn't seem to be one.

I also don't know if there is an error when the output test fails (open/close of clutches), but I imagine that if there isn't an error for a bad pump then all we have to go by in that case is the distinct noise it makes when it works (being primed).

On the priming pump being done ever so often. Realistically it shouldn't be needed. I only do it for the piece of mind that it is still responding when asked to. Whether it stress it out or not I also don't know, but hell, it needs to work when I am driving so it better get to work Pronto!

One last thing. The pump priming in VCDS and OBD11 both work, the problem is that in VCDS the "stop" button works while on OBD11 it doesn't. Exiting the app doesn't stop it either. The open/close of clutches I can't get to work in VCDS because it seems the conditions are not met and I don't know what those are, but in OBD11 it works rather easily. I don't know if any of the tests mentioned have a definitive time for which they need to be run at and/or at which point they automatically stop. Judging by the GenIV output test which does work it would seem the process is much shorter than my multiple 30 second sessions, but I will stick with mine for now. I just haven't found any documentation on these things, even in the erWin docs by VW. Honestly I'd love to play around with the VW software and at least take some pictures as reference of what "they" do.
 
Last edited:

JS12

Ready to race!
Thanks for all the info mosquito. 2018 R here with only JB4 and UM Haldex tune. Initially saw great benefits with the tune with 0 wheel spin even in the wet. Attempted a couple of launches in better weather last night and got quite a bit of wheelspin, no codes yet.

I tried the sequence of steps you detailed via OBD11. I was able to get the priming step to complete by just letting it run for 60 seconds. I didn’t hear any loud noises though so not sure if mine’s already shot. I heard what sounded like a faint jet engine taking off for about 15 seconds followed by periodic pump noises at maybe 5 second intervals.

I did the remaining steps and then drove a few miles and tried another launch with a bit less wheelspin. I’m only at 8200 miles but I went ahead and ordered the fluid kit from DAP. I also reached out to UM if they have any ideas.
 

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
Honestly I am not sure.
I think that when you start getting the error code, it may already be too late. It doesn't seem like the error is generated just because of the pump, but rather a consequence of the damage to the haldex due to the pump. The above process may or may not allow you to see if things are working correctly, I would think it would whether during a service or not. An automated self test with an ending OK would be nice, but there doesn't seem to be one.

I also don't know if there is an error when the output test fails (open/close of clutches), but I imagine that if there isn't an error for a bad pump then all we have to go by in that case is the distinct noise it makes when it works (being primed).

On the priming pump being done ever so often. Realistically it shouldn't be needed. I only do it for the piece of mind that it is still responding when asked to. Whether it stress it out or not I also don't know, but hell, it needs to work when I am driving so it better get to work Pronto!

One last thing. The pump priming in VCDS and OBD11 both work, the problem is that in VCDS the "stop" button works while on OBD11 it doesn't. Exiting the app doesn't stop it either. The open/close of clutches I can't get to work in VCDS because it seems the conditions are not met and I don't know what those are, but in OBD11 it works rather easily. I don't know if any of the tests mentioned have a definitive time for which they need to be run at and/or at which point they automatically stop. Judging by the GenIV output test which does work it would seem the process is much shorter than my multiple 30 second sessions, but I will stick with mine for now. I just haven't found any documentation on these things, even in the erWin docs by VW. Honestly I'd love to play around with the VW software and at least take some pictures as reference of what "they" do.

I agree that once you get this code...you could have something that is starting to fail and it's just a matter of time. I have researched this a bit though and a few people who have completely lost the rear engagement have primed the pump and all was well again. Maybe it's the pump or even the controller and then eventually the clutches burn out but those that have had their Haldex Clutches revived seem to be okay for now.

Time will tell.
 

Mosquito

Go Kart Newbie
Location
FL
I initially saw awesome results with the tune as well and then over time it kind of went back to feeling as usual. At first I was scared I was about to break something, it was awesome, now not so much. Seems like it adapts and gets passive unless you drive it very agressively. As in jackass aggresive. Always had the feeling the TCU does that as well.

Nice to know the pump prime completes. Will give it a try next time. Was always scared of the pump noises past the 20-30 second mark and always stopped it.

I have this theory that a clogged pump should have a harder time priming and getting to the "noises" where I imagine is max pressure. Then you purge and again, hense the intervals. Time it for yourself and see if it seems to take longer over time as you put wear on the current haldex fill. If that holds true, the 5 second intervals should stay fairly the same, but the wind-up may seem to extend overtime and perhaps give you an idea of partial blockage on the screen. Don't know. Just a thought.
 

marc5800

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ottawa
So should the pump prime process / clutch engage & disengage / reset AWD adaptation via OBD11 be done even when you aren’t servicing the Haldex system?

Or should it only be done after servicing?

Are there any benefits of doing this procedure from time to time (other than confirming that the system works adequately)?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
So should the pump prime process / clutch engage & disengage / reset AWD adaptation via OBD11 be done even when you aren’t servicing the Haldex system?

Or should it only be done after servicing?

Are there any benefits of doing this procedure from time to time (other than confirming that the system works adequately)?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think anyone knows the answer to this. I just know that I came up on this process from people that threw the fault code and used this. to 'fix' their Haldex issue.

Of course it's probably just a bandaid at that point but who knows. I would say 2015/16 owners have more to fear since those seem to be the years having haldex issues.

Just my opinion.
 

Mosquito

Go Kart Newbie
Location
FL
So I did my 40K mile Haldex service this weekend and wanted to share some details.
For starters I am now considering the above adaptation process a necessary part of the service as is the inspection of the pump itself.

Is it necessary to do when you aren't servicing the Haldex? probably not.
Are there any benefits to doing it besides confirming the system works adequately? probably not. In any case, I think it can give you some form of assurance that things are working as intended regardless of when you do it.

I have a 2017 R w/ build date 08/16 so I've always been attentive to the Haldex.
I haven't heard of many '17s going bad, but the build date wasn't one of the later ones either.

Hardware:
0CQ907554H Controller
0CQ525554M Haldex
0CQ525010H Differential
*Forgot to take pictures of the pump

In my case I did my "original fill" Haldex service at 20K while running it in "Standard". I inspected the pump then, but did not remove it fully or clean it as it was pretty clean already. The fill did include then what I would now call a partial Pump Prime. I ran it on "Increased Traction" from 25K to 35K and "Standard" with UM Haldex tune from 35K to 40K.

At 40K, this time the pump was even cleaner than the initial 20K miles, but it was removed and cleaned to perfection nevertheless. Whatever gunk it initially had (break in) I must have mostly removed in the first service. This time I also changed the fill, drain bolts as well as o-rings (overkill really) and even filtered the drained oil with a coffee filter just to see how much gunk came out. It was minimal really. None warranted pictures.

After reassembly, I filled the Haldex. Let it sit at level for a few minutes so that the oil would make its way to the pump chamber and went to do a partial Pump Prime. From there I added a bit more oil and started the car, let it idle for 1 minute and proceeded to do a complete Pump Prime (Thanks JS12). From there I did a clutch open & close output test using the "indefinite time" which I ran for at least about 30 seconds. The timed settings don't seem to work. Open clutch made no noise, Closed however made a welcoming humming noise slightly different than the Pump Prime. In any case I don't recall having heard it before, but clearly there was pressure and the pump was cranking it out to the clutch packs. From there an adaptation reset and fault clear (none were present). Afterwards I went on my way for a drive.

Currently I can say the car feels very sharp as in when it was new.
 

marc5800

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ottawa
Thanks for the info! Much appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
The procedure does seem to help getting things back inline and can be done at anytime. It does seem specially important after haldex fluid/pump maintenance however in GenV the output procedure isn't automatic as shown (at least not yet) so I do it manually.

I wish this was better documented in VCDS and OBD11.

My preferred method is:

Engine on
1. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Pump Prime for 30 seconds
It seems to make a humming noise and then seems to purge. Sound is an alive indicator. I've found nothing else to diagnose a pump without taking it out, so this is how I test the pump twice a month.

After fluid change, I do this 2-3 times with 1 minute intervals done on level ground.

For drain, I prime the pump level prior to so that as much gunk is attached to the screen and I am able to clean it when I remove the pump for haldex fluid change, what isn't there is hopefully drained with the rest of the fluid. I drain at an angle btw, but fill level

2. (22) AWD -> Output Tests -> Clutch Engaged/Disengaged
2 times for 30 seconds each.

Ignition on, Engine off
3. (22) AWD -> Clear codes (even if none are present)

4. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Clear all adaptation values

5. Drive off, no launches for a few miles or so.

1 Seems to work perfect in VCDS, but on OBD11 it runs and won't stop
2. Seems to work perfect in OBD11, but I cannot get it to run on VCDS
3 & 4 work on both VCDS & OBD11.

With all that said. I have a 17' MK7R w/ UM Haldex tune and the Haldex does seem to get lazy sometimes.

On this:

4. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Clear all adaptation values

It's listed as 'reset' adaptation right? When you select this you get a warning? I got the warning and chickened out. Lol
 
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