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front oem brake pads or cheap set?

PowerDemon

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Fredericksburg, VA
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
thanks do you know the part number?
Here you go!

@DarkArrow The guy says he drives aggressively. The HPS pad is designed for aggressive street driving... It works well as a daily driveable pad while still being able to put up with some hard abuse on the street. Mine are very quiet and smooth during daily driving while maintaining excellent performance and fade resistance on the backroads as well as high speed stops.
 

DiscusInferno

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Kalifornia
Hawk HPS pads are completely the wrong pad for a non-performance daily driver. They also dust a ton.
Hawk HPS are fine for a daily driver. They are "Street Pads". They don't dust a ton unless you use slotted rotors. I had them on a daily driver before. They aren't that great in a snow climate until they get some heat into them. Not an issue for the OP, since he doesn't live in the Flagstaff area of AZ.

Maybe you're thinking HP+ pads, which are dusty and made for autocross and club racing.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
Nope, that's a complete bullshit selling tactic. In fact, my factory rear brake pads clunked more than my Ferodo rear pads do now. Every time I put the car in reverse, the OEM pads would clunk. Now, with Ferodo pads, the clunk is gone.



Yes, ceramics are fine with stock rotors. Sure, you're not supposed "mix" pad materials, but it won't make a huge difference if you're not pushing the car. Some might disagree with me on this, but I think it's a good rule of thumb to change rotors when changing pads. It's fairly inexpensive to include, and you don't have to worry about minimal rotor thickness, uneven rotors, old pad material transfer, etc.



Hawk HPS pads are completely the wrong pad for a non-performance daily driver. They also dust a ton.



I 100% agree with this. Centric is the parent company of StopTech. Posiquiets are inexpensive and should work fine for your application. High carbon rotors are an inexpensive upgrade that is probably worth the extra $10 or so per rotor. Centric makes some as well.



On Rock Auto, the posiquiets will be under Centric.
Generally it's fine to just turn the rotors on the first pad replacement. Once they're turned you don't have to worry about uneven rotors or old pad transfer. Any good shop will measure the thickness of the rotors to determine if they can be turned. The OP mentioned cheaper pads so I'm assuming he wants to save some money so he should just turn the rotors if they meet spec,
 

DiscusInferno

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Kalifornia
Generally it's fine to just turn the rotors on the first pad replacement. Once they're turned you don't have to worry about uneven rotors or old pad transfer. Any good shop will measure the thickness of the rotors to determine if they can be turned. The OP mentioned cheaper pads so I'm assuming he wants to save some money so he should just turn the rotors if they meet spec,
It's not worth turning rotors. the 312x25mm rotors allow only up to 3mm of total thickness wear, so at 22mm, they are toast. That's only 1.5mm per side, assuming they wear evenly side to side.

If you did turn the rotors, the concentric tool lines are not good for bedding pads. You should sand the rotors down in a circular pattern to get a cross-hatched pattern
 

DarkArrow

Ready to race!
Location
Golf R
Here you go!

@DarkArrow The guy says he drives aggressively. The HPS pad is designed for aggressive street driving... It works well as a daily driveable pad while still being able to put up with some hard abuse on the street. Mine are very quiet and smooth during daily driving while maintaining excellent performance and fade resistance on the backroads as well as high speed stops.
Notice he clarified when quoting my post. His initial post he said doesn't need performance brakes. I hated HPS pads on my WRX, but to each his own.
Hawk HPS are fine for a daily driver. They are "Street Pads". They don't dust a ton unless you use slotted rotors. I had them on a daily driver before. They aren't that great in a snow climate until they get some heat into them. Not an issue for the OP, since he doesn't live in the Flagstaff area of AZ.

Maybe you're thinking HP+ pads, which are dusty and made for autocross and club racing.
Dusted a ton on my WRX with blank rotors. Haven't tried them on the mk7.5, but they're in a no-man's land for me. Dust too much for a daily, but can't hold up to track duty. So, I'm lazy and just stick to a pad that dusts but holds up on track :).

Generally it's fine to just turn the rotors on the first pad replacement. Once they're turned you don't have to worry about uneven rotors or old pad transfer. Any good shop will measure the thickness of the rotors to determine if they can be turned. The OP mentioned cheaper pads so I'm assuming he wants to save some money so he should just turn the rotors if they meet spec,
When a rotor is $30, and fewer and fewer mechanics are trained to use a brake lathe, it just doesn't make sense to me. Difference of opinion I guess, since an extra $10-$15/corner is worth having a new part, than hoping the mechanic turned the rotor correctly and ensured I have enough thickness to last another 50k+ miles of pads before the next change.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
It's not worth turning rotors. the 312x25mm rotors allow only up to 3mm of total thickness wear, so at 22mm, they are toast. That's only 1.5mm per side, assuming they wear evenly side to side.

If you did turn the rotors, the concentric tool lines are not good for bedding pads. You should sand the rotors down in a circular pattern to get a cross-hatched pattern
My PP rotors were turned on the first pad replacement. Plenty of thickness to be turned one time. I don't see why the 312mm would be any different. No harm in checking to see if they can be turned and the OP can save some money which was his objective.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
Notice he clarified when quoting my post. His initial post he said doesn't need performance brakes. I hated HPS pads on my WRX, but to each his own.


Dusted a ton on my WRX with blank rotors. Haven't tried them on the mk7.5, but they're in a no-man's land for me. Dust too much for a daily, but can't hold up to track duty. So, I'm lazy and just stick to a pad that dusts but holds up on track :).



When a rotor is $30, and fewer and fewer mechanics are trained to use a brake lathe, it just doesn't make sense to me. Difference of opinion I guess, since an extra $10-$15/corner is worth having a new part, than hoping the mechanic turned the rotor correctly and ensured I have enough thickness to last another 50k+ miles of pads before the next change.
Where can you get a quality OEM rotor for $30? And what kind of shops do you frequent that you can't trust them to turn a rotor? I only go to shops I know I can trust. I always watch also. If they won't let me watch I'll go somewhere else.
 

DiscusInferno

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Kalifornia
My PP rotors were turned on the first pad replacement. Plenty of thickness to be turned one time. I don't see why the 312mm would be any different. No harm in checking to see if they can be turned and the OP can save some money which was his objective.
They may be within limits after turning, but it would be at the lower end of the specification. PP 30mm thick rotors require replacement 27mm. So, starting at the lower end of the specification, when your 2nd pads wear out, you'll be exceeding the lower spec limit for the rotor thickness.

Where can you get a quality OEM rotor for $30? And what kind of shops do you frequent that you can't trust them to turn a rotor? I only go to shops I know I can trust. I always watch also. If they won't let me watch I'll go somewhere else.
Centric C-tek can be had from Rockauto for $30 for the 312mm rotors. It's going to have the G3000/G11H18 alloy like the OEM rotor, but sans Geomet type coating.
 

DarkArrow

Ready to race!
Location
Golf R
Where can you get a quality OEM rotor for $30? And what kind of shops do you frequent that you can't trust them to turn a rotor? I only go to shops I know I can trust. I always watch also. If they won't let me watch I'll go somewhere else.
You know you can trust them, but you have to watch otherwise you walk? I'm not sure you understand the meaning of trust... I trust my mechanic. I drop off my car, toss him the keys, and leave. I don't need to watch him because I trust his work.

I don't even care to ask to turn a rotor, so honestly, I don't know any shop that I could recommend to turn a rotor because I've never had it done. I'm stating facts that fewer mechanics are trained to turn a rotor because, no need for a shop to invest money and space in a brake lathe, less labor and time, less liability in case there's issues like vibrations, no worries about minimal thickness, all while a majority of the population won't care about an extra few dollars for part that'll last 50k+ miles.

I never said anything about an OEM rotor being $30. RockAuto has Centric blanks high carbon for $30 rears and $50 fronts and regular c-tek rotors are $22 rear and $28 front. You can pay the extra $$$ for OEM, but you're not getting anything better other than it says VAG on it. FCPEuro's lifetime warranty supplies my rotors, so new Zimmermans cost me whatever it costs to throw it in a flat rate box.

Remember, minimal thickness isn't only about when it's being turned. It's about the entire life of your brake pads too, unless you're changing rotors mid-pad, which just adds additional labor.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
They may be within limits after turning, but it would be at the lower end of the specification. PP 30mm thick rotors require replacement 27mm. So, starting at the lower end of the specification, when your 2nd pads wear out, you'll be exceeding the lower spec limit for the rotor thickness.


Centric C-tek can be had from Rockauto for $30 for the 312mm rotors. It's going to have the G3000/G11H18 alloy like the OEM rotor, but sans Geomet type coating.
OK. All I can say is that when I needed new pads I had the rotors turned and it was fine. When I needed new pads the second time I replaced the rotors.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
You know you can trust them, but you have to watch otherwise you walk? I'm not sure you understand the meaning of trust... I trust my mechanic. I drop off my car, toss him the keys, and leave. I don't need to watch him because I trust his work.

I don't even care to ask to turn a rotor, so honestly, I don't know any shop that I could recommend to turn a rotor because I've never had it done. I'm stating facts that fewer mechanics are trained to turn a rotor because, no need for a shop to invest money and space in a brake lathe, less labor and time, less liability in case there's issues like vibrations, no worries about minimal thickness, all while a majority of the population won't care about an extra few dollars for part that'll last 50k+ miles.

I never said anything about an OEM rotor being $30. RockAuto has Centric blanks high carbon for $30 rears and $50 fronts and regular c-tek rotors are $22 rear and $28 front. You can pay the extra $$$ for OEM, but you're not getting anything better other than it says VAG on it. FCPEuro's lifetime warranty supplies my rotors, so new Zimmermans cost me whatever it costs to throw it in a flat rate box.

Remember, minimal thickness isn't only about when it's being turned. It's about the entire life of your brake pads too, unless you're changing rotors mid-pad, which just adds additional labor.
Right. I should have said trust but verify.
 

Judas

Ready to race!
Location
Tempe az
so main concern now is the two bolts for the carrier that holds the caliper, are those two bolts tough to get off? ill be doing the job with two jack stands, and dap used a break bar,
im a big guy, i think i can crank them off just curious if its as hard to do as in the dap video
 

Judas

Ready to race!
Location
Tempe az
yeah and im trying to be frugal, i just paid 750 in repairs, and havent worked in two months so im trying to get the best for my monies thanks for all the input
 

DiscusInferno

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Kalifornia
so main concern now is the two bolts for the carrier that holds the caliper, are those two bolts tough to get off? ill be doing the job with two jack stands, and dap used a break bar,
im a big guy, i think i can crank them off just curious if its as hard to do as in the dap video
Breaker bar is fine. It's a straight forward bolt, so a 6 point socket on a breaker bar is fine.

It's not like the rear, where you need to get triple square socket bits
 
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