Finally back on track! Homestead.

[SouthFL_Mk7.5]

Hadn’t run since February (just before Covid)! Lockdowns occurred, my business took a huge hit and all things car related had to go on hold... But things normalized (for the time being!!!) just enough to come out again and hit the track at Homestead!

Something special in that I was able to partake in this day with my 15year old accompanying me, soon to take over the GTi when he’s 16.

Got to get a few run sessions in today, one wet session run and a couple sessions on dry track once the sun came out.

GTi did its job! Especially thru the technical sequence of Turns 10-15 coming off the back straight- this is where I can really keep up with the heavy hitters- carrying as much momentum throughout the sequence and trail braking through 12 and 13 to get the car to rotate and set up for the 14-15 segment and track out to the front straight.

Didn’t get any in-car footage today but my son was seated at the Turn 3 bleachers and got a few vids of the GTi passing by and dipping into the bowl at Turn 4.

I had a nice day wrangling with the Boxsters and Caymans! Was even able to hang with a couple of them for a couple laps - they’d pull away on the straights but I’d reel them back in at the brake zones!

A few observations....

Tires
Closeout purchase Falken RT 615k did the job- got a little greasy about 20 minutes in when pushed really hard. They squeal, communicating everything that they intend to do. Did great in the wet session as well. I set them at 35psi all around in the morning and left them there.

Brakes
Porterfield R4 up front and R4S in back on ECS 2 piece rotors. This combo simply doesn’t fade- no matter how hard I stomp on it late into a brake zone!! Because I use the R4S day to day, it’s a 15min swap before track day for the front R4. Very convenient and makes the PP calipers feel like overachievers.

JB4 Map1
15 minutes into first session, timing was pulled and limp actuated (just as I was getting a point by too- which I had to waive off!). I stayed on track, let the long straight cool things a bit, and stayed out for a few more hard laps when again, limp mode. Brought it in. Filled up on 98 Octane and no more limp mode for the rest of the day!

Son
Turns 16 next year and can enroll in the Novice program! He’s looking forward to it!

Happy to be back on track!

 

[R Golf]

Nice write up. It's so fun to get others involved in track driving, but nothing beats getting your kids involved.

My nephew uses the 615K's and loves them, and he runs great lap times in his BMW. Amazing bang for your buck.

 

[Will_]

Hey it’s me your other son, save some laps for me.

I’ve seen 265/35/18 615Ks on sale for $143 a piece right now. I’m really tempted to grab a set and save them till next season but unsure about fitment. I’ve heard the 660 is more Autocross orientated and overheats fast.

 

[jay745]

Srf is worth the cost. I boiled so much brake fluid before just biting the bullet and switching.

 

[R Golf]

Hey it’s me your other son, save some laps for me.

I’ve seen 265/35/18 615Ks on sale for $143 a piece right now. I’m really tempted to grab a set and save them till next season but unsure about fitment. I’ve heard the 660 is more Autocross orientated and overheats fast.

I can confirm at least one case where the 660's overheated early. My nephew, whom I mentioned above, switched from the 615's to the 660's for our track day at Lime Rock (he drives a 3 series BMW). He loved the 660's but they gave up the ghost really early and the left front was toast after 2 days. He is back on the 615's and loves them. He finds them a tick slower than the 660's but much more reliable over time and as you know they are great value.

 

[Will_]

I can confirm at least one case where the 660's overheated early. My nephew, whom I mentioned above, switched from the 615's to the 660's for our track day at Lime Rock (he drives a 3 series BMW). He loved the 660's but they gave up the ghost really early and the left front was toast after 2 days. He is back on the 615's and loves them. He finds them a tick slower than the 660's but much more reliable over time and as you know they are great value.

Good to know. I was told by a Falken rep before the 660 came out that they were pretty much made specifically for Autocross to challenge the RE-71R, which suffers from the same overheating issues, so that makes sense. 615K it will be (if I order Falkens).

 

[SouthFL_Mk7.5]

I forgot to mention... first track day that I use the 19lb 17” wheel combo. The weight savings is noticeable when going thru Turns 13, 14 as compared to the 25lb factory 18” Austins I ran with last February. Through that technical section, the car was much more responsive. Could also have to do with the tires (I was using 220tw P Zero last February). The slightly taller sidewalks of the 17” RT615K were nice and sturdy, providing excellent feedback.

 

[SouthFL_Mk7.5]

Today I swapped the front brake pads and wheel/tires back to daily driver mode. A few observations;

Tires
To my surprise I burned about halfway through the inner contact patch area tread depth of the front RT615K in just 3 sessions! They are about as worn as my set of Pirelli P Zero which I used for 2 track days and 10 months of daily driving! The rear RT615K are fine/ even tread wear and looks like they’re good for another 4 track days. I’d maybe get just one more track day (maybe a full weekend) out of the front pair if they’d go back up front! I’m running -2 camber all around.

Brakes
Porterfield R4 pads are barely consumed after 2 track days up front; maybe 15% consumed.
Rear R4S (which stay on full time even for daily use) have 3 track days and a year daily driving and are maybe just reaching 40% consumed mark.

Front passenger side caliper piston dust boot is completely gone. Front driver side boot is still there and pliable.

Just out of curiosity (and necessity because I didn’t have time for the swap over the weekend), I tried today’s commute with the R4 up front and it’s not bearable- the pads have the dump truck squeal that you’d expect out of a race pad running too cold. I’d imagine the rotors would get marred quickly if left on.

Another thing of note, I noticed the MK7.5 has a little air duct feeding fresh air from the front bumper grill. Neat!

Wheels
Front Sparco center caps; melted
Plastic hub rings didn’t melt but stuck to the rotors- pried them off with a shot of CLP and flathead screwdriver. I have a set of aluminum hub rings but worried maybe they’ll bind to the rotors. Anyone have experience with the metal rings?

 

[R Golf]

Today I swapped the front brake pads and wheel/tires back to daily driver mode. A few observations;

Tires
To my surprise I burned about halfway through the inner contact patch area tread depth of the front RT615K in just 3 sessions! They are about as worn as my set of Pirelli P Zero which I used for 2 track days and 10 months of daily driving! The rear RT615K are fine/ even tread wear and looks like they’re good for another 4 track days. I’d maybe get just one more track day (maybe a full weekend) out of the front pair if they’d go back up front! I’m running -2 camber all around.

Brakes
Porterfield R4 pads are barely consumed after 2 track days up front; maybe 15% consumed.
Rear R4S (which stay on full time even for daily use) have 3 track days and a year daily driving and are maybe just reaching 40% consumed mark.

Front passenger side caliper piston dust boot is completely gone. Front driver side boot is still there and pliable.

Just out of curiosity (and necessity because I didn’t have time for the swap over the weekend), I tried today’s commute with the R4 up front and it’s not bearable- the pads have the dump truck squeal that you’d expect out of a race pad running too cold. I’d imagine the rotors would get marred quickly if left on.

Another thing of note, I noticed the MK7.5 has a little air duct feeding fresh air from the front bumper grill. Neat!

Wheels
Front Sparco center caps; melted
Plastic hub rings didn’t melt but stuck to the rotors- pried them off with a shot of CLP and flathead screwdriver. I have a set of aluminum hub rings but worried maybe they’ll bind to the rotors. Anyone have experience with the metal rings?

From your original post you mentioned about the Flakens:

I set them at 35psi all around in the morning and left them there.

Was that cold or hot? If cold, could be due to overinflation.

 

[SouthFL_Mk7.5]

From your original post you mentioned about the Flakens:

I set them at 35psi all around in the morning and left them there.

Was that cold or hot? If cold, could be due to overinflation.

Good point. I usually make psi adjustments just from seat of pants over/under steer feel and keeping an eye on the rollover of the sidewall on the outer tread blocks. I liked the performance and overall balance with them at 35, therefore I just left them there. Now I see the result once the wheel came off the car. The car is at zero toe, so it’s probably not a toe matter.

34/35/36 is what I was running the PZero at on previous two outings and I saw them wearing and performing well with similar ambient conditions to this past weekend. Perhaps the RT615K should have been run at a different psi or are more sensitive to operating within a psi range. Apples and oranges.