burgerkong
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Ontario, Canadeh
Two cancellers from KW were harmed (irreparably) for this. iSweep should be similar as well.
To sum up, a mere $20 or so per canceller.
Could I make it myself? Possibly, if I can get ahold of some aluminum enclosures for cheap, or have them CNC'd for me (the crimping and soldering is trivial). Would I? No, I don't even have coils. Merry Christmas.
CONTENTS (per canceller)
1) Intertechnik HQR32/5.6/50 Iron Core Inductor*
2) Vishay / Dale 1/2W 0.5ohm 2% Resistor (the resistor code doesn't make much sense, and the measurement is iffy, so the resistance may be higher, but for sure 1/2W)
3a) Connector (Pigtail / Bare Connector 1-1703498-1/ Male Contacts 1718760-3 / Wire Seal for 20AWG to 18AWG 967067-1 / Strain Relief Boot E-ACCA 1J0906102 / Strain Relief Boot AliExpress 1J0906102)
3b) LEONI Adascar® Sensor 211 (truth be told, any 2 conductor in the 20AWG to 18AWG range, high stranding [64 strands per conductor in this case] unshielded cable will work, as long as the temp range matches)
4) A snazzy aluminum open-bottom enclosure
CONSTRUCTION
Everything was potted into the the snazzy aluminum enclosure using typical potting compound, epoxy would work just as well.
Pin 1 of the connector was soldered to one end of the resistor, whereas Pin 2 was connected to the inductor itself (the other terminal is soldered to the unused end of the resistor).
*I believe the Intertechnik inductor comes with an iron core already, but cannot confirm. If air core, then KW (or whoever made it) added a custom machined steel core that filled up the ID of the inductor, and acted as a protective surface for the bottom of the enclosure.
CODING THE DAMN LIGHTS OUT
Alternatively, if you feel adventurous, you can also opt to code out the lights and have traction control/ABS functional again:
To sum up, a mere $20 or so per canceller.
Could I make it myself? Possibly, if I can get ahold of some aluminum enclosures for cheap, or have them CNC'd for me (the crimping and soldering is trivial). Would I? No, I don't even have coils. Merry Christmas.
CONTENTS (per canceller)
1) Intertechnik HQR32/5.6/50 Iron Core Inductor*
2) Vishay / Dale 1/2W 0.5ohm 2% Resistor (the resistor code doesn't make much sense, and the measurement is iffy, so the resistance may be higher, but for sure 1/2W)
3a) Connector (Pigtail / Bare Connector 1-1703498-1/ Male Contacts 1718760-3 / Wire Seal for 20AWG to 18AWG 967067-1 / Strain Relief Boot E-ACCA 1J0906102 / Strain Relief Boot AliExpress 1J0906102)
3b) LEONI Adascar® Sensor 211 (truth be told, any 2 conductor in the 20AWG to 18AWG range, high stranding [64 strands per conductor in this case] unshielded cable will work, as long as the temp range matches)
4) A snazzy aluminum open-bottom enclosure
CONSTRUCTION
Everything was potted into the the snazzy aluminum enclosure using typical potting compound, epoxy would work just as well.
Pin 1 of the connector was soldered to one end of the resistor, whereas Pin 2 was connected to the inductor itself (the other terminal is soldered to the unused end of the resistor).
*I believe the Intertechnik inductor comes with an iron core already, but cannot confirm. If air core, then KW (or whoever made it) added a custom machined steel core that filled up the ID of the inductor, and acted as a protective surface for the bottom of the enclosure.
CODING THE DAMN LIGHTS OUT
Alternatively, if you feel adventurous, you can also opt to code out the lights and have traction control/ABS functional again:
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