Eurodyne Updates


Autocross Newbie
Surrey, BC, Canada
Mk7 Golf R
Welcome everyone! Let's keep this thread positive for our benefit :)

Below are some tips and tricks I've been gathering from fellow members. If you wish to add to this, please post in this thread or PM JcarrollWS6, Quebster, Drrck, or Mk7GTl so it gets added to this page. Enjoy!

Date: November 27rd, 2017

2015/2016/2017 ECU's currently supported!

Eurodyne EA888 Gen.3 2.0TSI Engine Software:
EurodyneFlash (current version) - 7.4.6 - Now supports high-speed data logging! (Post updated 10/16/2017)

North America:

Stage 1 91Oct - v1.1
Stage 1.5 91Oct - v1.1
Stage 1.5 93Oct (High Torque)* v1.2
Stage 1.5 93Oct - v1.1
Stage 1.5 Adjustable
Stage 2.0 91oct - v1.1
Stage 2.0 91oct (High Torque)* v1.2
Stage 2.0 93oct - v1.1
Stage 2.0 93oct (High Torque)* v1.2
Stage 2.0 100oct (High Torque)** v1.2
Stage 2.0 Adjustable
IS38 turbo 91oct
IS38 turbo 93oct

2016 and 2017 ECUs current version: 1.2 (Please let us know if inaccurate - PM Quebster, Mk7GTI, or JCarrollWS6)

Golf R/S3:
Stage 1 91 oct
Stage 1.5 91 oct v1.3
Stage 1.5 93 oct v1.3
Stage 2.0 91 oct v1.3
Stage 2.0 93 oct v1.3

Rest of World (ROW):
Last Updated 2016-06-21
IS38 turbo 91oct (was n/a)
IS38 turbo 93oct (was n/a)
Stage 1 - v1.0 (no updates since launch)
Stage 1.5 91 - v8.6
Stage 1.5 93 - v8.6
Stage 2 91 - v8.6
Stage 2 93 - v8.6

Golf R/S3:
Stage 1 91 oct
Stage 1.5 91 oct
Stage 1.5 93 oct
Stage 2.0 91 oct
Stage 2.0 93 oct

Some users will begin seeing adjustable (adj) tunes for their application as they roll out. Please read and understand the information under tuning 101 before making changes!

Direct Shift Gearbox (DSG) Tune - v1.0 Stage 1 (UPDATED INFO) Stage 2 in Development

- Increased torque limits (this allows for the high torque engine software)
- Improved shift mapping
- Quicker shift times
- Higher launch control limits, that can be controlled through the throttle ("Stage 2" tune allows for 4500 rpm launch)
- True manual mode (will not shift or kick down unless you do it manually)
- Shift display now displays the gear in both D and S mode

DSG Adaptation Procedure
Defined Test Drive

Suggested test drive after replacing the mechatronic or successful basic setting.


  • Fluid Temperature 30...100 °C (86...210 °F), see Measuring Blocks, Group 019.
  • Do Not use Cruise Control.
Drive in Tiptronic Mode from stand still up to 6th Gear.
While doing that make sure to drive in Gears 3 or 5 for approx. 5 minutes and also in 4 or 6 for approx. 5 minutes.
The engine speed window for all gears is 1200 - 3500 RPM (for clutch calibration).
Perform one sharp braking followed by a full throttle acceleration (oil return check) while in Drive, Not Tiptronic Mode.
Evaluate creep and starting-off points.
Check for leaks.

NOTE: If the test drive cannot be performed in the recommended way or the necessary time, any remaining adaptations will be performed automatically during normal driving.
Special Notes

  • Some modules do not require the use if the [ON/OFF/Next] button. If an Error is displayed after clicking the button, or the Basic Settings status does not switch to On, let the selected group and procedure finish on its own.

  • It is normal for the transmission to make noise while the tolerances are adapting. Do not exit or abort the Basic Settings sequence prematurely if you hear clacking noises.

  • Customers with TDI's have reported that an RPM range of 2000-2500 rpm is sufficient.

* - Eurodyne recommends the DSG tune or a 6MT clutch upgrade for best results with the High Torque maps. The DSG TCU has torque limiting software that may work against the engine map resulting in inconsistent peak performance.

** - To use the 100 Octane tune, be sure to use only fuel with 100+ octane. If you wish to blend fuels to attain an effective octane of 100+, please do so carefully. See my E85 fuel info below for a better understanding. It is not feasible to reach 100 test octane with E85+gas in the Mk7. This requires a greater than 2:1 pure EtOH:gasoline volume. E85 tests somewhere between 94-98 octane depending on source. Even pure E85 falls short of 100! Winter blend E85 is only 51-75% EtOH to prevent gelling. Do not rely on the stated % ethanol as the pumps are permanetly labeled E85. Also: unless you are certain of your fuel quality, it is good practice to monitor the engine timing when flashing new/more aggressive tunes.

*provided by: JcarrollWS6

Info on Adjustable files (coming soon)

How to Flash:

Purchasing credits

You can purchase credits through the Eurodyne flash program, under the “credits” menu.

You can also purchase them directly from this link, (you will need to enter your cable number manually in this case);

(copy and paste into your browser)


In either case, make sure you click the “return to Eurodyne website” link after paying for the credits if your browser does not do it automatically.

You can get your cable number by clicking “get cable ID” under the flash cable menu in the Eurodyne flash software.

The cable must be plugged into the PC while doing this.

*provided by: nis240sxt

PowerTap Tool 101:

Troubleshooting the Eurodyne Software on Windows 8

You will need to enable the .NET framework, as this is not enabled by default on all versions of windows 8. See below:

Also, in some cases you may need to run the software in compatibility mode which has worked for 100% of cases to date. Make sure it is “Compatibility Mode for Windows XP Service Pack 3″

- Right-Click on the program icon > click on “Properties”
- Click on "Compatibility Tab"
- Check “Run this Program in Compatibility Mode for:” box
- Select “Windows XP Service Pack 3″
- Click “Apply”

*provided by: nis240sxt

How to log using the Eurodyne PowerTap Tool

- Click on "Controller Diagnostic" > Get Controller Info > Measuring Blocks.
- Select either the variables you want to log from the tree view by clicking on them, or click the button that says “Select All”
- Click "Log to File" when you want to actually record the data.
- The log files will be saved in the c:\eurodyne folder


- Drop down Controller Diagnostics
- Choose Brake Electronics from dropdown list
- Change the last digit from a 9 to either of the below depending on your desired results/car:

05 - Button options: ESC ON/ ASR Off/ ESC OFF
06 - Button options: ESC ON/ ESC SPORT / ESC OFF

*07 - Button options: ESC ON/ ASR Off/ ESC OFF (for GTIs with PP) *not confirmed
08 - Button options: ESC ON/ ESC SPORT / ESC OFF (for GTIs with PP)

Refuel Quantity in MFD

- Drop down Controller Diagnostics
- Choose 17 Dash Panel Insert from drop down list
- Change the 10th digit from a 6A to a 7A

Displaying the Fan Speed in Auto Mode

- Drop down Controller Diagnostics
- Choose 08 A/C Heater Electronics
- Change the 12th digit to a "40"

*provided by: jshwon

VCDS 101:

Logging Boost Pressure

Using VCDS go to:
- Engine > Measuring Values
- Select: 084 Charge Air Pressure, Specified Bar and 085 Charge Air Pressure, Actual Bar
- Check the box in the top left hand corner called "Group UDS" > click/tap on "Log"

It will log your specified vs actual boost pressures.

*thanks to Boost3d.GTI and Brandon B for this :)

Tuning 101:

Load can be thought of as the amount of air entering your engine at a certain engine speed. Load is an approximation of your motor’s torque output calculated using the the amount of airflow entering the motor, engine RPM, and a scaling constant. The amount of airflow entering the our engines is calculated using a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).

By looking at load we have a much more realistic idea of how much torque the engine is producing regardless of turbocharger used, temperatures, and altitude. This is the most important difference between load and boost. While a car making 20psi of boost at 3000 RPM on one turbocharger will make a different amount of power to a car making 20psi at the same engine speed on a different turbocharger; a car making, say, "1.5 load" at 3000 RPM will make the same amount of power as another car making 1.5 load at the same RPM (given that the loads are calculated accurately). Because of this important distinction load based tunes are able to provide much more consistent torque across all operating conditions resulting in consistent and reliable vehicle operation. What you will see is that the ECU will vary the boost pressure to target the same load/torque depending on ambient conditions. In hotter weather the ECU will target more boost due to the lower air density and in cooler weather it will command less boost thanks to higher air density. To prevent too much boost in very hot conditions for example, our load based tunes do cap boost at a reasonable level.

BOOST Based (Manual Boost controllers, Standalone ECUs) Tuning:
Your vehicle’s MAP sensor measures the absolute pressure in your intake manifold. Boost is the measure of pressure above atmospheric pressure in your intake manifold and is usually shown in Pounds per Square Inch (psi). Boost based tuning is the old school way of tuning boosted vehicles as it is an easy way of knowing what the turbo is doing. However, the mass flow rate of air as well as the amount of oxygen entering your engine at a certain boost pressure vary greatly with ambient temperature, humidity, altitude, intake, turbo used, etc. When temperatures are cooler and you are at a low altitude the ambient air has a much higher density and thus richer oxygen content than air at high altitudes and high temperatures. Because of this a boost based tune will have higher torque in the winter than it will in the summer. Our boost based tunes target boost pressures but can also put a cap on loads for engine safety.

Now that we understand the two concepts the question still remains, which is better?

Although load based tunes maintain fairly constant torque in different ambient conditions, the motor’s ability to produce torque changes. A vehicle which is targeting 1.5 load at 3,000 RPM may demand a boost pressure in the region of 20 psi during the hottest summer day. The same car will require less boost to achieve this load figure during the dead of winter since the air density is greater – let’s say it will be somewhere in the region of 15 psi (still at 3,000 RPM). Although the motor’s torque output will remain fairly constant between the two situations the end user is sometimes surprised when they see their car is suddenly making only 15 pounds of boost. In addition, since the motor has the ability to target higher load values during the winter some feel that the car’s performance is not being maximized (although now we start to worry about connecting rods).

A boost based tune which is done in the summer can have much different results than a low boost figure. Imagine a vehicle which was tuned in the summer and was able to carry 20psi of boost without knocking. This vehicle’s tune will target 20 psi no matter what the ambient conditions may be. So, as the temperatures start to drop and air density goes up, the car will be making more and more power at that 20 psi boost figure. This increases the torque output but also puts more strain on the connecting rods and fuel octane being used due to higher cylinder pressures.

OEM tunes target loads because they want to deliver consistent output year-round (the rated engine output). Because of this the control system has nice features such as load by gear which enhances traction and driveability.

*provided by: JcarrollWS6

Information about E85/Ethanol Blends

E85 Ethanol's "Octane" and its application in forced induction engines.
This is true. As a matter of fact, ethanol has ZERO octane. Octane is a alkane hydrocarbon. By definition, ethanol is, well, ethanol or C2H6O.

Ethanol's raw octane number is 96 based on its combustibility at various experimental temps/pressures. Where Ethanol gets the rest of its "octane" points is from the laws of thermodynamics (I knew that this would be important one day, why was I sleeping!).

Ethanol, more so than gasoline scavenges heat from the environment with a high standard enthalpy delta of evaporation. When you wipe alcohol on your arm, it vaporizes and takes heat with it so you feel the sensation of cold. The same thing happens in the engine cylinder. Lowering combustion temperatures, and scavenging heat reduces the cyl pressure and thereby decreases the likelihood of preignition (knock). This raises its effective real world octane above the raw 96 number.

That sounds reasonable, so why not fill up 50/50 with this stuff?

First of all, please don't do this.

The problem we have with running EtOH blends in cars not designed for it is largely due to fuel starvation. Modern engines are controlled by computers that are constantly monitoring the Air/Fuel ratio (Lambda value) of the spent exhaust gasses leaving the engine. Ethanol has about 15% less energy density per volume measure than does gasoline. This is why people see slightly better mileage with pure gas as compared to 10-15% ethanol blends.

The stock fuel system has a maximum flow rate due to the fuel pumps, fuel pressure and (mostly) due to the injector size. Factory fuel trims will rarely take the injectors past 75-80% of their peak duty cycle. 100% duty cycle is a theoretical maximum calculated from the sum of all the components flow. These are pristine, new components working exactly as they should. Since a fuel system cannot be reasonably expected to perform at 100%, nobody is reckless enough to demand it. this 81-99% area is considered "head-space" and it is where aftermarket tuners go to find the extra go juice for the added boost and airflow. Lets say, very hypothetically, that we are at 90% with our aftermarket tunes.

Adding ethanol on top of a tune means that the injector must work beyond the normal maximum and beyond the tune maximum to deliver enough fuel to keep the lambda value within target range. Soon enough, there is nothing more to give and the moisture starts to lean out. First you get incredible power and about 90 seconds later you have a paperweight under the hood from excessive heat of combustion.

Direct injected cars have shifted the paradigm from "80%" and "90%," etc with tighter fueling control. Since then we have seen engines running leaner and closer to stoichiometric than ever before from the factory, yielding more power and more economy. But the principle is exactly the same for all computer controlled, fuel injected engines.

Hope this helps answer some questions, and perhaps it can assist those looking to experiment in doing so safely.

On AFRs:
Gone are the days of 11-12:1 AFRs. As I mentioned in the long E85 post, direct injection ushers in a new era of engine tuning. Not only can the fueling tighter controlled, but the extremely high pressures atomize the fuel and allow for more cooling and more complete combustion with less fuel. All of this allows for leaner running. Recall that 14.7:1 is perfectly stoichiometric for gasoline so engineers are working to get closer and closer to that lofty goal.

Normally leaner conditions create more power and heat, but the high pressure spray helps combat this, and faster adjustment capability means that the engine can attempt more aggressive AFRs and quickly recover if necessary. Also, we have the thermal condition programs in the software. All of these things allow for leaner avg. conditions.

Welcome to 2015-16

*provided by: JcarrollWS6

On "Pulling Timing"
You are seeing the ECU program running its course. Timing is pulled in low rpm/high load situations because cylinder pressures are at their highest then. Notice nobody starts to spray nitrous oxide before about 3500-4000 rpm. this is due to the extraordinary stress that would cause and the likelihood of an induction backfire. Do not fixate on the timing number, per se, but instead look for regular drops. If you see timing drops in 3* increments that would be indicative of knock retard. Otherwise, the computer is doing what it does best and chooses parameters based on a million variables like IAT, engine temps, fuel quality, etc. I don't think you will see much of a timing benefit by adding octane beyond what the file is tuned for. All that can happen is it will run at 100% of its speed density maximum. Cars do not add timing above baseline load maps when fuel quality is increased.

Get out at about 35- 40 mph, 2400 rpm and flat-foot it. You'll see the instantaneous timing number drop like a stone. It should increase all the way to redline.

On "Peak Boost!", Bro.
Just wanted to chime in and say that computer controlled cars will make less boost in lower temperature. Cool air is of the same make-up as (relatively) warmer air, but its specific density is greater per volumetric unit-measure.

As less air volume is required to introduce the same mass of oxygen. The response you see from a computer controlled turbocharged engine is lower boost levels requested as less of this compressed air is needed to bring in the quanta of oxygen necessary to meet the engine load/torque targets.

Less boost results in less heat from compression. Get out the bicycle pump and test this for yourselves. Put the squeeze on any gas and it heats up, which makes the charge less efficient, and the intercooler work harder to meet the same goals.

This is why we see just a drastic improvement in engine performance with a relatively mild drop in ambient temperature. Its a exponential, compounding problem of heat:

Hot Ambient Air + Higher Heat of Compression + Profound Heatsoak = Power Loss

*provided by: JcarrollWS6
Last edited:


Ready to race!
Well ill put this here. Ive been running the latest test file in my 6mt since sunday morn. Not one epc! Car pulls hard as F*ck love it!! Cant wait for tomorrow to get the final revised and released file!


Go Kart Champion
Detroit, MI
Well ill put this here. Ive been running the latest test file in my 6mt since sunday morn. Not one epc! Car pulls hard as F*ck love it!! Cant wait for tomorrow to get the final revised and released file!

I don't even run Eurodyne and I approve of this update and this thread.


Ready to race!
Well ill put this here. Ive been running the latest test file in my 6mt since sunday morn. Not one epc! Car pulls hard as F*ck love it!! Cant wait for tomorrow to get the final revised and released file!

Haha, that's only the 91 octane file too that you're running. Hopefully you have 93 octane in your neck of the woods!


Ready to race!
O crap really?! Sickkkkk. Hell yea theres 94 and theres another station w cam2 ;-p def even more stoked now haha


Ready to race!
No dyno chart of the new revision?

Nope but somebody around here will test it out. Better yet, track times since a lot of people think ED is crap because nobody on it has ran a decent time yet. V8 is the version last tested so that tells you how many revisions were created.


Ready to race!
Yes Carlos!!! Thank you!!! Lol


Ready to race!
Hell yea!! Big thanks to everyone!! WHOOOT


Ready to race!
So I have a question. I recently flash my gti with the 1.5 91oct 3 days ago the first time ever and it drives like a beast. So is it necessary to flash it again with that new file? Is there gonna be a difference?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk