Engine Replacement - 2015 GTI MK7

[Acadia18]

I remember there being another post about MAPerformance blowing an engine. I do know when I ran the base Cobb Stage 1 91 tune I was seeing up to -4.5 degree of knock retard constantly. Running EQT which is much faster and the most I've seen is -2.25 and it's rare enough for me to not worry.

-4.5 is nothing in comparison. I tried an MAPerformance tune. Figured why not, it was only $75.

It lasted about 30 minutes on my car. -12 to -14 was a regular occurrence.

 

[arob157]

-4.5 is nothing in comparison. I tried an MAPerformance tune. Figured why not, it was only $75.

It lasted about 30 minutes on my car. -12 to -14 was a regular occurrence.

So you are saying their tunes are worse than Cobb OTS tunes...

That is really putting your best foot forward to intentionally grenade motors.

 

[AceHammer]

How do you even ship that out in good faith? Like my first time screwing around in tuner studio on a 280zx I was able to have a tune with less timing retard.

-4.5 is nothing in comparison. I tried an MAPerformance tune. Figured why not, it was only $75.

It lasted about 30 minutes on my car. -12 to -14 was a regular occurrence.

 

[Acadia18]

So you are saying their tunes are worse than Cobb OTS tunes...

That is really putting your best foot forward to intentionally grenade motors.

I never had a "problem" with the Cobb tunes. Ran their OTS ones for a few thousand miles. I knew I was getting a downpipe, and didn't want to pay for an EQT tune twice.

The tune itself sucked, was pretty conservative and the power wasn't consistent, but it didn't knock for me.

How do you even ship that out in good faith? Like my first time screwing around in tuner studio on a 280zx I was able to have a tune with less timing retard.

I will say they had good customer service. I use 93 and bought their 93 octane tune file. When I saw how much it was knocking, I asked for their 91 octane tune file, and they sent it over no questions asked. Still knocked to hell though.

 

[MSH]

VW dealer wants $11K for used and $18K for new. A local shop wants about $8K for used engine with 60K miles.

Damn those quotes for both the dealer and the local shop are out of control! Here in Denver arguably the best VW/Audi shop (and we have a lot of solid VW/Audi shops here) that have done more MQB built engines than any shop in the Denver area quoted me $10k for a fully built engine for my R. That's all in....parts, labor, tax, etc

 

[the]

Damn those quotes for both the dealer and the local shop are out of control! Here in Denver arguably the best VW/Audi shop (and we have a lot of solid VW/Audi shops here) that have done more MQB built engines than any shop in the Denver area quoted me $10k for a fully built engine for my R. That's all in....parts, labor, tax, etc

That dealer very much wants to discourage him into buying a new car.

 

[MSH]

That dealer very much wants to discourage him into buying a new car.

Defintiely....the local shop though at $8k for a 60k used engine seems even more nuts

 

[AceHammer]

18k for a new longblock seems on par from VW. For some reason, all their motors new are stupid expensive. An official reman through vw is 8k, and I'm sure the dealer also wants to do a new turbo etc. Then tack on the dealer labor rate and you can easily hit 18k.

 

[AceHammer]

Also right now it seems real hard to find a decent used motor.
IMO if the block is ok and it sounds like you just killed a ring on cylinder 1 so it should be fine, you should just have it rebored to 83mm and have a shop put forged internals in.

 

[AlienSP]

Anyone in Houston area know a reputable shop that can look at it to validate what VW dealer says?

If you were in Austin, I'd highly recommend Brink Motorsports. May be worth giving them a call on sourcing a motor or swap.

 

[AlienSP]

https://austin.craigslist.org/pts/d/san-marcos-parting-out-mk7-vw-gti-turbo/7286628332.html

 

[Rare Ara S3]

$18k wow. I was quoted $14k from a local Audi dealer when I lost cylinder number 3 in my S3. Towed it home and pulled the engine myself and just put it all back together. It is definitely doable if you’re mechanically inclined and have the tools. Take your time. Mark all of the connectors. Bag and tag the fasteners and/or the bolts you can put back right away do so. A lift certainly helps a lot but isn’t absolutely necessary. It is a lot of electrical connectors and hoses but if you take pics you’ll save yourself some stress. Now go call a friend and start tearing in to it!

 

[AceHammer]

If you're hesitant about assembling the motor itself or don't have super-accurate tools, most machine shops in my area will assemble your bottom end for around 400-500.