EA288 / 2.0TDI 110kW(150PS) coolant loss

[lietuviss]

3-4 months ago I've got a used 2015 Golf Variant, it has 210K on the clock.
Since day one it is constantly loosing coolant through the expansion tank.
Took it to VW, they have since changed head gasket, pump and probably some other stuff we don't know about ant it is still pushing coolant out the bottle through the overflow port.
Seems like it is doing it irregularly, I've done around 5K trip though Europe and it only emptied few times.
From what I suspect it is doing that mostly in traffic or city driving (maybe DPF regen?), highways are usually fine but there were days when it also got empty.


Anyone else had issues like this?
VW can't seem to figure out what is wrong or why it is happening, no error codes and etc.
I've monitored engine temps while driving through OBD and it seems to always be within limits (90C).

 

[dr_mat]

Sure it's coming out the expansion tank? The most common coolant loss point is the water pump housing on the right hand side of the engine as you look into the engine bay.


...if it creaks, it's probably made by VAG

 

[dr_mat]

If it is coming out the expansion tank then you must have a pressure problem, which tends to point to air locks. Crazy idea but maybe the factory routed a hose wrong?


...if it creaks, it's probably made by VAG

 

[Cesco_93]

Bump

 

[Mjrc]

Just take out the heater core and clean it or change it for a Nissen heat core and then do a proper flush of whole cooling sistem( i pured a bottle of Liqui moly radiator cleaner 200km before that). I had the same problems starting at 190.000km with losing coolant On 208.000km i decided to remove the old heater core, and because the new one was not expensive i didnt bother to buy it. Btw the new one has bigger channels that means it needs more to become clogged. In the same time i did a thermostat change, because its a cheep part and you dont want it to get stuck closed in the summer .
Before all this job done, i did take a look if maybe some hose is bad and all of them were fine, i did a co2 sniff test 3 times to test if maybe my headgasket is bad but even there everthink was OK.
Now when everthing is changed after 1500km there is no more coolant loss, no more gurgling noise from heater core after car is shut down. So everthing is OK now.
So lets take a look. My sympotms were:
-starting to loss coolant at 190kkm and needs to top up every 500-600km
-gurgling noise inside a car located under dash where heater is located (this sound was there only when car was shut down after especially when pushing it on motorway.
-at the end i needed to top uo every 100-200km
-in the winter time i noticed that my coolant temps were to low (almost hard to get over 85), normaly it was from 70 to 77 so that was the real reason i changed the thermostat because i suspect that it is stuck open ( and it was).
Cost for all material was 70 eur for heater, 10 eur for liquy m sistem cleaner, 25 eur for thermostat, 25 eur for 5 liters of G13 concentrat and a lots of destilated water for flush and mixing proper coolant:water mix.

 

[Lth0ms0n]

Just take out the heater core and clean it or change it for a Nissen heat core and then do a proper flush of whole cooling sistem( i pured a bottle of Liqui moly radiator cleaner 200km before that). I had the same problems starting at 190.000km with losing coolant On 208.000km i decided to remove the old heater core, and because the new one was not expensive i didnt bother to buy it. Btw the new one has bigger channels that means it needs more to become clogged. In the same time i did a thermostat change, because its a cheep part and you dont want it to get stuck closed in the summer .
Before all this job done, i did take a look if maybe some hose is bad and all of them were fine, i did a co2 sniff test 3 times to test if maybe my headgasket is bad but even there everthink was OK.
Now when everthing is changed after 1500km there is no more coolant loss, no more gurgling noise from heater core after car is shut down. So everthing is OK now.
So lets take a look. My sympotms were:
-starting to loss coolant at 190kkm and needs to top up every 500-600km
-gurgling noise inside a car located under dash where heater is located (this sound was there only when car was shut down after especially when pushing it on motorway.
-at the end i needed to top uo every 100-200km
-in the winter time i noticed that my coolant temps were to low (almost hard to get over 85), normaly it was from 70 to 77 so that was the real reason i changed the thermostat because i suspect that it is stuck open ( and it was).
Cost for all material was 70 eur for heater, 10 eur for liquy m sistem cleaner, 25 eur for thermostat, 25 eur for 5 liters of G13 concentrat and a lots of destilated water for flush and mixing proper coolant:water mix.

You say the new one…did VW redesign the core and make the capillaries bigger?

I recently had mine out to fix it (no heat) and I cleansed it with bio-degreaser for 400 miles then drained and flushed it. When we washed the core out, nothing came out of it and when we ran hot water through it, it also heated up evenly - right across it.

Back in the car and I get intermittent heat on the driver’s side now. I’m convinced there is an air lock in it but I have no idea how you’d go about getting that out. I’ve been running it daily and leaving it parked overnight with the left side elevated in the hopes the air will float to the top that way.

Bizarrely, that seems to be working. But I am wondering if the core needs replaced… It’s only done 70,000 miles though and with no obvious issues, I don’t want to scrap it unnecessarily.

 

[Lth0ms0n]

Just take out the heater core and clean it or change it for a Nissen heat core and then do a proper flush of whole cooling sistem( i pured a bottle of Liqui moly radiator cleaner 200km before that). I had the same problems starting at 190.000km with losing coolant On 208.000km i decided to remove the old heater core, and because the new one was not expensive i didnt bother to buy it. Btw the new one has bigger channels that means it needs more to become clogged. In the same time i did a thermostat change, because its a cheep part and you dont want it to get stuck closed in the summer .
Before all this job done, i did take a look if maybe some hose is bad and all of them were fine, i did a co2 sniff test 3 times to test if maybe my headgasket is bad but even there everthink was OK.
Now when everthing is changed after 1500km there is no more coolant loss, no more gurgling noise from heater core after car is shut down. So everthing is OK now.
So lets take a look. My sympotms were:
-starting to loss coolant at 190kkm and needs to top up every 500-600km
-gurgling noise inside a car located under dash where heater is located (this sound was there only when car was shut down after especially when pushing it on motorway.
-at the end i needed to top uo every 100-200km
-in the winter time i noticed that my coolant temps were to low (almost hard to get over 85), normaly it was from 70 to 77 so that was the real reason i changed the thermostat because i suspect that it is stuck open ( and it was).
Cost for all material was 70 eur for heater, 10 eur for liquy m sistem cleaner, 25 eur for thermostat, 25 eur for 5 liters of G13 concentrat and a lots of destilated water for flush and mixing proper coolant:water mix.

By "Nissen" is this what you mean?

https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/nissens/7933884

Does this part have wider capillaries on it than the original Denso part VW fitted in some of the models?