Dual-duty alignment - how's it look?

[blaqsheep]

Got aligned after swapping to different springs and camber puck. Just wanted some feedback on my current specs. A little confused on the variance of caster and why I wasn't able to achieve almost equal camber in the front since I've got a Tyrolsport deadset kit in. I pushed the strut towards the engine as far as I could whilst tightening the 3 top bolts and loosened the ball joint nuts and pulled the rotor as far as I could. Car was pulling slightly to the right, but could've been the crown in the road as the car did track straight on the highway on my way home. Wheel is slightly crooked to the left, but it's never been dead straight from day 1. Shop told me they'd re-do the alignment if I'm not happy. Curious on what I can do to even out the camber and what can be done to center the steering wheel, I read up on the steering angle sensor reset but not sure if that will help, or I need to sit in the car with a 0 reading and then have him adjust toe.

Current setup with Koni Yellow, Eibach Pro-Kit springs and Eurosport Camber Kit:

Front:
Caster 7.55° / 7.18°
Camber -1.99° / -1.72°
Toe 0.01° / 0.02°

Rear:
Camber -1.70° / -1.69°
Toe 0.03° / 0.03°

Previous setup with Koni Yellow, VWR springs and SuperPro camber plates:

Front:
Caster 7.44° / 7.17°
Camber -2.16° / -2.14°
Toe 0.01° / 0.00°

Rear:
Camber -1.77° / -1.72°
Toe 0.05° / 0.06°

 

[bfury5]

Camber looks decent side to side. The good thing about a deadset kit is it stops your subframe from shifting and throwing your alignment out. However, in your case unbolting the subframe and and shifting it slightly would probably get you 1.8 side to side. I wouldn't be worried too much about about the camber, .3 side to side difference is about the max I'd want but isn't an absolute deal breaker. You could loosen the top nuts on the 1.99 side and pull it to the outside of the car a bit to even it out as well. Really depends on if you want to maximize camber both sides or just have it equal.

I have different caster left to right as well, there's a little slop in the top mounts you can play with but I chalked it up more to any slight variances in the LCA when I changed mine.

Toe front and back looks good, close to zero should be livelier than stock but still bias slightly towards understeer. You can always revisit toe in the future to help with balance, it's an easy "free" (no parts, just the cost of an alignment) change to make. In all my alignments I've never had a 100% straight wheel. Getting the steering sensor to read 0 gives you a great starting point, but the steering racks seem to have some on-center play that might always leave you slightly off.