nefario90
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Nashville TN
ohhh nice!! yeah I was looking into HANS and that looks like the one to get for the versatility as you mentioned
7
Do it all Sportwagen - street/hoon/track/drag you name it....this is the way...
- Thread starter tigeo
- Start date
Hey guys - just installed an APR DTR6054 turbo and trying to adjust the wastage actuator on my car. The YouTube video was super helpful. Wondering if anyone here has done the APR turbo install? Is the APR actuator setup the same as an IS20?
19birel
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Car(s)
- MK7.5 - MK4 - B8.5
When I installed mine I simply measured the length of the actuator rod on the IS20 and then made sure to match that length when installing the IS20 actuator on the DTR.
Depends if it's a Mahle style or Cooper style actuator. if you used the actuator off you IS12, then it's the cooper style, which is the IS20 type.
Either way you want to adjust the rod length to get the correct voltage.
You installed a DTR on a 1.8. Who APR tune also? Curious how it feels for you.
I eventually figured out it was the same style as the IS20 which is where I pulled the actuator from. I put the turbo on my mk7 GTI, and I recorded my full experience for the install on the post below. The GTI now pulls way harder than I expected. Slight turbo lag, but knew that going in.
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...ocharger-tips-and-tricks.453074/#post-8082164
tigeo
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Richmond, VA area
Wow...no updates since Sept. I find I use the Alltrack/Sportwagen FB group(s) more for this stuff anymore. I will try to give an update post, my YT channel has most anything I do so it's all captured there.
Dog Dad Wagon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Go Birds
- Car(s)
- 16 Touareg TDI
I just hate Facebook. I see you on there. My names cooper. I hate people on Facebook there’s so much dumbassery all it is is what’s your favorite flavor of oil
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Dog Dad Wagon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Go Birds
- Car(s)
- 16 Touareg TDI
also most of the pushed content on the platform that isn’t from pages you follow is AI
tigeo
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Richmond, VA area
The GSW/AT group I mod is great.
tigeo
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Richmond, VA area
I've been negligent in my duties of keeping up with this "build" thread (or as someone here has it written...."installing things on my car"). I keep up with the car mainly on my YT at this point and over on the GSW/AT FB Group (I'm a mod). But I like this format so I'll try to get folks that give a flip an update over the last year or so:
2.0 HPFP Unitronic tune
The biggest thing I've done since last year is I beta tested the Unitronic "stage 3" tune (including a revised DSG tune) that adds the OEM HPFP from the 2.0s. I know some custom tuners had done this for the 1.8 but to my knowledge, none of the big-name OTS guys had one. It's a way to get a bit more out of the 1.8 w/IS38 without going MPI that is quite costly with the MPI kit and LPFP. It's OEM so will be reliable. They claim ~40hp/25 lb-ft. I'd say from all my testing and tracking that's probably accurate or close. This is on 93 only. I have found that issues I had with (especially) winter blend pump gas here in the mid-Atlantic was excessive knock sensor feedback in certain conditions to the point of EPC. Summer fuels were always fine. The standard stage 2+ IS38 Unitronic tune was very aggressive but did, as I understand it, keep factory safeties and knock sensor sensitivity which was part of the issue. To combat this I just ran a few gal of E85 and sent it...no issues doing that. This new tune doens't have any issues with running 93 as the fuel system can deliver my volume and the timing advance is dialed back vs. the non-2.0 HPFP tune. Boost is dialed up and gives a nice flat torque curve with nearly a nearly flat boost curve out to redline. I beta tested about 6 versions of this tune and that included 3 track events so it's been beaten on. No drama. Car makes more power as evidenced by vmax on some straights. I haven't had a chance to do some dragy testing and honestly, I don't really care at this point...it's going to be a little faster/little higher trap speed and at 6 years/115K I've probably lost a touch of power due to age/miles so it could even be a wash vs. the old Dragy data I have. I have zero desire to dyno the car. I just drive my car.
The DSG tune is much more aggressive in both clamping and shift points in D. D has the 2-3 shift at 19mph which may not sound like a big deal but in my neighborhood I typically drive slower than that and in second, it's annoying....in a manual you'd shift up to 3rd for sure. Otherwise it's fine and I do like that it winds out 3/4 more (45/55, respectively). The old "stage 2" DSG tune D mode was basically stock or close to it.
TZ Haldex spring (race rate)
Buddy of mine that works at an Audi dealer nearby installed this for me. I did a few launches post-install and yes, it appears that my 60' times are slightly better than previously. I did this mainly for autocross starts.
Radium (engine) and 034 (DSG) catch cans
I *think* I had some posts here about my MK8 PCV "full retrofit". I added a MK8 Radium catch can to the mix to just keep any oil out of the intake tract/IC and to satisfy some curiosity. Seems to be working well. After about 5K miles and 1 track day/2 autocrosses, it had a few oz of oil in it. This is for a MK8 so I had to modify its mounting location over to the right side of the bay but it works and has not had any issues.
The 034 DSG catch can (DQ250) had continued to be empty since install (a year ago?). I did this to replace the factory beather box (looks like an electrical box mounted on the side of the battery tray) as it would belch fluid at times making a mess. So far not a drop in it. I suspect the line itself (is larger) has enough capacity to capture any fluid that comes out.
Front sway bar end links
I went through set #2 of the standard 034 adjustables (ball joint ends) so decided to move up to their motorsport grade with sphericals. They are rebuildable (as are the others I found out!) so can just replace the Heim joints when they go. I note no additional NVH with these.
LCAs
After the second set of Duroball bushings on my Superpro arms failed, I went with the 034 model. Solid rubber bushings so will be curious how they go but so far 7 track days and they look fine. Arms allow some ball joint adjustability. With these and the Eurosport camber mounts I sit at ~-2.7 deg camber up front which seems about perfect for a daily.
Engine/trans mounts
Went with the big-boy Motorsport mounts this time. Streetsport density (so the softer of the two available). I had the standard 034 density line ones for ~4 years/40K miles and I noted the trans mount starting to vibrate badly so went with these. 034 has a lifetime warranty so I was able to get a few $'00 credit towards my new mounts. Of course more NVH but it has settled over the few mos. since install. Very visceral RACEKOR experience driving it now but I've taken several highway trips without it causing much fuss. I take it these will basically last forever.
Misc.
034 side window air deflectors. Meant to keep things a little quieter/less buffeting while windows are down on track. I *think* these actually help just based on around-town driving. Better solution is just let folks have their windows up and use turn signals for point-bys...but I digress....
Badgeskins f. bumper chrome delete. Just some pre-cut black vinyl b/c I'm lazy. Looks better than my shitty rattle can job that kept chippnig/coming off. This along with my bo-bo/Aliexpress fog light trim gives me the what your mom called "we have the R bumper at home" that was basically free vs. an OEM R bumper.
At this point it's mainly maintenance/repairs and track consumables for $$$ spend on this car. I am looking at hood venting/oil cooling next for track use as possible mods. Coilovers always on the list as it a cool exhaust but money isn't free and the car rips as-is. I'll never get rid of it...just too unique and it would be fun to put seats/harness/cage/wing and make it a trailered track car at some point but I'll need a tow vehicle and trailer and all of this crap takes money and a place to store things neither of which I have at the moment so I'll just keep pressing on as-is.
All of the above mods are handled by multiple videos on my YT channel which is linked in my signature below - check them out, like/sub, blah blah blah.
2.0 HPFP Unitronic tune
The biggest thing I've done since last year is I beta tested the Unitronic "stage 3" tune (including a revised DSG tune) that adds the OEM HPFP from the 2.0s. I know some custom tuners had done this for the 1.8 but to my knowledge, none of the big-name OTS guys had one. It's a way to get a bit more out of the 1.8 w/IS38 without going MPI that is quite costly with the MPI kit and LPFP. It's OEM so will be reliable. They claim ~40hp/25 lb-ft. I'd say from all my testing and tracking that's probably accurate or close. This is on 93 only. I have found that issues I had with (especially) winter blend pump gas here in the mid-Atlantic was excessive knock sensor feedback in certain conditions to the point of EPC. Summer fuels were always fine. The standard stage 2+ IS38 Unitronic tune was very aggressive but did, as I understand it, keep factory safeties and knock sensor sensitivity which was part of the issue. To combat this I just ran a few gal of E85 and sent it...no issues doing that. This new tune doens't have any issues with running 93 as the fuel system can deliver my volume and the timing advance is dialed back vs. the non-2.0 HPFP tune. Boost is dialed up and gives a nice flat torque curve with nearly a nearly flat boost curve out to redline. I beta tested about 6 versions of this tune and that included 3 track events so it's been beaten on. No drama. Car makes more power as evidenced by vmax on some straights. I haven't had a chance to do some dragy testing and honestly, I don't really care at this point...it's going to be a little faster/little higher trap speed and at 6 years/115K I've probably lost a touch of power due to age/miles so it could even be a wash vs. the old Dragy data I have. I have zero desire to dyno the car. I just drive my car.
The DSG tune is much more aggressive in both clamping and shift points in D. D has the 2-3 shift at 19mph which may not sound like a big deal but in my neighborhood I typically drive slower than that and in second, it's annoying....in a manual you'd shift up to 3rd for sure. Otherwise it's fine and I do like that it winds out 3/4 more (45/55, respectively). The old "stage 2" DSG tune D mode was basically stock or close to it.
TZ Haldex spring (race rate)
Buddy of mine that works at an Audi dealer nearby installed this for me. I did a few launches post-install and yes, it appears that my 60' times are slightly better than previously. I did this mainly for autocross starts.
Radium (engine) and 034 (DSG) catch cans
I *think* I had some posts here about my MK8 PCV "full retrofit". I added a MK8 Radium catch can to the mix to just keep any oil out of the intake tract/IC and to satisfy some curiosity. Seems to be working well. After about 5K miles and 1 track day/2 autocrosses, it had a few oz of oil in it. This is for a MK8 so I had to modify its mounting location over to the right side of the bay but it works and has not had any issues.
The 034 DSG catch can (DQ250) had continued to be empty since install (a year ago?). I did this to replace the factory beather box (looks like an electrical box mounted on the side of the battery tray) as it would belch fluid at times making a mess. So far not a drop in it. I suspect the line itself (is larger) has enough capacity to capture any fluid that comes out.
Front sway bar end links
I went through set #2 of the standard 034 adjustables (ball joint ends) so decided to move up to their motorsport grade with sphericals. They are rebuildable (as are the others I found out!) so can just replace the Heim joints when they go. I note no additional NVH with these.
LCAs
After the second set of Duroball bushings on my Superpro arms failed, I went with the 034 model. Solid rubber bushings so will be curious how they go but so far 7 track days and they look fine. Arms allow some ball joint adjustability. With these and the Eurosport camber mounts I sit at ~-2.7 deg camber up front which seems about perfect for a daily.
Engine/trans mounts
Went with the big-boy Motorsport mounts this time. Streetsport density (so the softer of the two available). I had the standard 034 density line ones for ~4 years/40K miles and I noted the trans mount starting to vibrate badly so went with these. 034 has a lifetime warranty so I was able to get a few $'00 credit towards my new mounts. Of course more NVH but it has settled over the few mos. since install. Very visceral RACEKOR experience driving it now but I've taken several highway trips without it causing much fuss. I take it these will basically last forever.
Misc.
034 side window air deflectors. Meant to keep things a little quieter/less buffeting while windows are down on track. I *think* these actually help just based on around-town driving. Better solution is just let folks have their windows up and use turn signals for point-bys...but I digress....
Badgeskins f. bumper chrome delete. Just some pre-cut black vinyl b/c I'm lazy. Looks better than my shitty rattle can job that kept chippnig/coming off. This along with my bo-bo/Aliexpress fog light trim gives me the what your mom called "we have the R bumper at home" that was basically free vs. an OEM R bumper.
At this point it's mainly maintenance/repairs and track consumables for $$$ spend on this car. I am looking at hood venting/oil cooling next for track use as possible mods. Coilovers always on the list as it a cool exhaust but money isn't free and the car rips as-is. I'll never get rid of it...just too unique and it would be fun to put seats/harness/cage/wing and make it a trailered track car at some point but I'll need a tow vehicle and trailer and all of this crap takes money and a place to store things neither of which I have at the moment so I'll just keep pressing on as-is.
All of the above mods are handled by multiple videos on my YT channel which is linked in my signature below - check them out, like/sub, blah blah blah.
I have had the same experience with the new HPFP and ECU tune. No longer need to put the E85 in the tank to make the car happy, pulls and shifts stronger. Very happy with this change!
tigeo
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Richmond, VA area
The previous tune was spicy and just needed really good gas. It's good they used me(others) for beta testing over the winter to get the tune calibrated for the shitty 93 we have. Remember, they have the Petro 94 or whatever it's called up there so no wonder they can push the timing like that. Basically timing advance max in third redline is around 7.5 deg vs. ~14 like before. Boost peaks around 25 and tapers off to ~22. I ran a splash of E85 when I was testing and it really didn't do a thing b/c the timing wasn't being retarded enough to have it matter. Still fairly aggressive w/r to timing vs. most tunes I see logs for for pump gas.
Salami
Autocross Champion
- Location
- North Carolina
- Car(s)
- MK7.5R
Tunezilla correct? What are thoughts on using it long term pertaining to wear and reliability?
tigeo
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Richmond, VA area
No idea. Been in a month. 1 track day. Shouldn't change a thing unless you launch it.
Salami
Autocross Champion
- Location
- North Carolina
- Car(s)
- MK7.5R
For clarity: no idea if it is a Tunezilla spring or pertaining to wear and reliability?
Do you have a Haldex tune?