Dog Dad Wagon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Go Birds
- Car(s)
- 16 Touareg TDI
Same hahahahai love your car so dang much.
Same hahahahai love your car so dang much.
Where did you buy screen mesh, (behind grill) for protect radiator?Some Racecar Bushcraft. Added chicken wire to front lower grille to help protect the new condenser I just had installed and cut out the side grilles/fog light dummy covers to allow air flow through to the vented fender liners.
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Lowes.Where did you buy screen mesh, (behind grill) for protect radiator?
I re-adjusted mine late last year, I wasn't getting a fault yet but noticed it had climbed to 3.85v and readjusted to a happy 3.6v. Not exactly sure why it tends to climb in voltage over time. I like your idea of attaching string to the 10mm as I've nearly lost it to the abyss at least twice.I did this last year but just made a video better explaing the process and the mysteries surrounding this process and how it differs between the 38 and 12/20.
Another right of passage completed. IS38 waste gate actuator adjustment. Watched Paul's shopdap video but no way I could spin the rod with my finger. The 10mm jam nut is straightforward to loosen/tighten. I improvised some tethers as one dropped tool is too many for this. I just used some small vice grip needle nose to get on that rod and turn it. It worked and it doesn't look like a boogered the threads. Got my value back in range at ~3.6. Ran the Basic Settings after and it completed so all good. Test drive confirmed success.
When my turbo was installed a few years ago my voltage was ~3.6. Last few track events I was having an EPC only when I came in off-track from a session; never during the session. Code indicated WG needed adjustment. WG volts were at 4.1 which is a bit out of range on the high side. Range should be 3.4-3.9 as I understand it.
Update. Video up on my YouTube explaining a bit more about this and the differences between 12/20/38 w/r to this adjustment.
https://youtu.be/hVyAqOltk-8?si=v8ZBTjwKbXvjutUr
Mine was just over 4 and ran fine but did get the fault occasionally so adjusted it down. Someone I know had an explanation of the creep over time but I can't recall what it was. I shot for 3.5 but by the time you snug the lock nut it climbs up a skosh.I re-adjusted mine late last year, I wasn't getting a fault yet but noticed it had climbed to 3.85v and readjusted to a happy 3.6v. Not exactly sure why it tends to climb in voltage over time. I like your idea of attaching string to the 10mm as I've nearly lost it to the abyss at least twice.
Dummy cording....excellent....love it!
Next up...
Decided to change up the look of the rear hatch badging. Went from the red/chrome Unitronic Stage badge and OE 4Motion badge to the just-released black Unitronic Stage badge and current model year Tiguan 4Motion badge...think it turned out neat! I removed my TSI and Golf badges a while back.
I know some like the de-badged look, I actually like some badging b/c I like to be able to ID strange trims etc. on folks' cars on the road. Here, the 4Motion is something that is v. rare on the Sportwagen so like to keep that one badge. The TSI and Golf made it too busy to me. The 7.5 Alltracks were even worse...you got Golf and Alltrack on the left side and TSI and 4Motion on the right. Badge-a-rama!
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I'll save you some time, I don't have any cooling mods really hahaGreat build thread. I'm going to start reading through it all to figure out your cooling mods.
I'll save you some time, I don't have any cooling mods really haha
Dude....it's fine. I beat the shit out of it and can post some track temp logs....it's hot but never causes issues.Wow - and you are able to run sessions with an IS38 without issues?
I was thinking of a DTR6054 and wasn’t sure if I’d need to retrofit the R/S3 Aux coolers