I've got obdeleven set up and have enabled GEM. I ran the congo activator but I agree that based on how I understand this all works, it's probably not necessary (because we'll do the next steps via ethernet, not via script on the SD card).
However! I'm having trouble connecting to the car over ethernet. I set up the adapter as noted in your initial post, which was corroborated by this other post i found when searching ethernet + MIB2: https://robpol86.com/mib2_comp_media.html
With my adapter settings, and all other network adapters disabled, I can ping 192.168.1.4 but cannot connect, it just sits there and nothing happens. I tried connecting via ssh on a command line (ssh root@192.168.1.4 -p 23) as well as via putty (specifying the IP and port but waiting for it to prompt me for a username).
Is there an additional step that you can remember? I tried to scrub through your youtube video to the relevant section of the dead wiki but you go through it so fast the the potentially useful section is just a blur.
Is there anything else you can remember that's needed to be able to connect to the car?
e: this wasn't relevant. the problem was that I was trying to connect via ssh and not telnet
As i skim through the thread, I see some people have the "Switch to MLP" option checked in GEM on the page that displays the ethernet info. I can't check this off myself, it enables and then automatically disables. I don't know if this is the core issue though.
Still nada. I'll explore writing a simple delphi.sh script to perform the commands I'd be running via telnet. I'll start by just trying to make a backup of the existing delphibin.ifs to make sure it's working. If I don't report back in a few hours, I'm dead.
I'm dead. Didn't figure out why ethernet isn't working, and it doesn't appear that the delphi.sh script is being executed. I tried to just had it copy the current one to a new folder and write a message to a tempfile and neither occurred. I don't know if it's an issue with my head unit or the wrong script or what. Looking at your pictures, I have an identical software train and software version.
I rechecked the congo dir and re-ran it but deleted the log.txt first. The log.txt is recreated so at least it's doing _something_
e: What would the behavior of the ethernet adapter be if it wasn't working? When connected, both the green and yellow lights are flashing and it responds via ping to 192.168.1.4, but the telnet connection just hangs forever. Is it possible I got a bad unit? (too new??)
e: The notes here are correct that I wasn't able to get scripts to run automatically, but it's not necessary for this software train. The ethernet adapter linked on amazon from drewpul is compatible with the car, and as noted above, you have to use telnet not ssh when connecting to the car. Once you connect you can follow the instructions as listed.
Prepare the Congo and Duke activator, this will enable various features for the car and also theoretically enable running scripts automatically from an SD card, although I did not get that behavior to work.
In the MIB2.zip, there are 3 files at the root directory, a directory called 'MST2_Activator_Made_By_Congo_and_Duke_v3.0_Unbroken' and two other files. Take the contents of that directory and put them on an SD card that's been formatted with FAT32
Optionally you can remove the log.txt from the SD card so that when a new one shows up on the SD card, you know it's log output from your car.
There are instructions in that same folder for how to run the update so grab a copy and pull it up on your computer
Insert the SD card and follow the instructions to run the activator
Remove CP
Remove the SD card from the car and remove the files from it
Grab the other two files that were in MIB2.zip and put them in the root of the SD card [delphi.sh, delphibin.ifs]
Connect the appropriate ethernet dongle to your car's new USB port
Connect your computer to the dongle
Update your local ethernet LAN settings as noted in here https://pdfupload.io/docs/18d2971b (Thanks ClappedMan for grabbing a copy of this and sharing it!)
From drewpul's notes: "Network and Internet -> Change adapter settings -> Local Area Connection Properties -> Properties -> Check and choose "Properties" on: Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) In the TCP/IP v4 adapter settings, manually enter IP 192.168.1.10 and the mask should be 255.255.255.0"
Connect to your car using PUTTY or some other terminal.
IP: 192.168.1.4
Port: 23
Protocol: telnet
When prompted for a username, offer 'root' with no password
From the terminal connection, run the following commands to: 1. Backup the existing delphibin.ifs, 2. replace the one on the car with the one from the zip, and 3/4, sync and reboot
Thanks again for your guide, drewpul, it was a huge help to understand the process and identify compatible parts. And of course thanks again to ClappedMan for sharing a copy of the mibwiki page.
Prepare the Congo and Duke activator, this will enable various features for the car and also theoretically enable running scripts automatically from an SD card, although I did not get that behavior to work.
In the MIB2.zip, there are 3 files at the root directory, a directory called 'MST2_Activator_Made_By_Congo_and_Duke_v3.0_Unbroken' and two other files. Take the contents of that directory and put them on an SD card that's been formatted with FAT32
Optionally you can remove the log.txt from the SD card so that when a new one shows up on the SD card, you know it's log output from your car.
There are instructions in that same folder for how to run the update so grab a copy and pull it up on your computer
Insert the SD card and follow the instructions to run the activator
Remove CP
Remove the SD card from the car and remove the files from it
Grab the other two files that were in MIB2.zip and put them in the root of the SD card [delphi.sh, delphibin.ifs]
Connect the appropriate ethernet dongle to your car's new USB port
Connect your computer to the dongle
Update your local ethernet LAN settings as noted in here https://pdfupload.io/docs/18d2971b (Thanks ClappedMan for grabbing a copy of this and sharing it!)
From drewpul's notes: "Network and Internet -> Change adapter settings -> Local Area Connection Properties -> Properties -> Check and choose "Properties" on: Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) In the TCP/IP v4 adapter settings, manually enter IP 192.168.1.10 and the mask should be 255.255.255.0"
Connect to your car using PUTTY or some other terminal.
IP: 192.168.1.4
Port: 23
Protocol: telnet
When prompted for a username, offer 'root' with no password
From the terminal connection, run the following commands to: 1. Backup the existing delphibin.ifs, 2. replace the one on the car with the one from the zip, and 3/4, sync and reboot
Thanks again for your guide, drewpul, it was a huge help to understand the process and identify compatible parts. And of course thanks again to ClappedMan for sharing a copy of the mibwiki page.
Glad to be of assistance! 🫡 Thankfully my mac had that page open in some hidden window otherwise it may have been gone forever.. I have a question, when you go into Menu>setup, do you see the date and time options?
Yeah I don't see time and date, and units as well. I've scrolled through odbeleven for a while in my car but I can't seem to find the setting for it. I can change the time from the dashboard but that's all manual. Also, can't seem to save radio stations either :/
Thank you for the writeup! The link for the 2 patch files no longer works, but I was able to find the patch on mibsolution.one I have the exact same setup as you p0504D mu0613.
One thing to note, the Delphi.sh file is NOT needed if using putty. Just the delphibin.ifs file is enough. CP is now removed and I have all fecs.
**11/2024 UPDATE - It seems that some of the sites are no longer active. I have tried to update this thread to reduce the number of external links. It may be very difficult to remove the CP yourself on your own now unless you have the exact software train I have.**
Firstly, thank you to everyone for the information on the mega MIB1 > MIB2 thread.
After a few months of planning, and securing the parts, I have now successfully upgraded my 2015 Golf Sportwagen S TDI to have MIB 2 with Android Auto and Apple Carplay.
Here's a quick video over view of the steps!
There's alot of information out there....and there are several methods to accomplish this. This is the cheapest way that does not require a remote programmer or trip to the dealer. You also do NOT need to purchase a new wiring harness. This valuable nugget of information has been buried prevoiusly.
**WARNING** It is possible to brick your unit, so be sure you are fully understanding the risk before proceeding. Read and understand the instructions before doing. Please read the full tutorials and videos I link out to so that you get the full context. The purpose of this thread is to simply this streamlined method into a single thread without needing to read through threads with hundreds of posts. This process is easy and should not take very long. Double check your work as you go along. Being detailed oriented is the key to success here.
PARTS NEEDED
1. 6.5" Screen - 3G0919605H (~$100)
The 5.8" Screen will not work, so you need to upgrade to the 6.5" or 8". The 6.5" is more common and can be found on 2016 and 2017 pre-facelift mk7 Golfs.The other advantage if going with 6.5" is that you can still use the existing bezel you already have. If you want to upgrade to the 8" screen use Part # 5G0919606 and Bezel Part #5G1819728AFDMD
2. MIB2 Glovebox Headunit - 3q0035844 (~$100)
I got mine off a 2017 Golf S. The manufacturer of the unit is Delphi. That is a MUST for this method to work. Seems that most units I came across in the North American market are Delphi. Try to get one in a similar model level as the car you have. It makes programming easier later on. For example, my car and the car I got mine from both had standard non-Fender audio. If there is a mismatch, there will likely be additional programming you'll need to do later on so the car recognizes the different audio setup.
3. USB Port - 5g0035222 with an inside part of 5q0035726j ($20) Get the plug that connects into it too.
5q0035726J or 5q0035726E should work well. The USB port is fitted in an outer shell with the part number 5g0035222. Some USB ports do not support Apple Carplay. Seems that most do support Android Auto. Get one off a 2016 or 2017. Seems they charged the part number in 2018 which is not compatible. I obtained one with part number 5q0035726M on the inner USB unit. It was off a 2019 sportwagen. Android Auto works, but Carplay does not. Soon I will pick up the correct plug, but it's fine for the time being since I have an Android phone
MIB does not support USB 3.0, so you must get an adapter with USB 2.0. This is the one I used and it worked well. You also need an ethernet (RJ-45) cable. You also need a Windows computer. I only have a windows desktop, so I made sure my cable was long enough to reach.
5. SD Card 4GB Formatted to FAT32 (You probably already have one, if not ~$10.)
Thanks to this thread, which I will go into detail about below. All you need to do is move some pins around in the existing wiring harness. Many people buy a harness off Aliexpress and struggle to feed it through. Save yourself time and money, with this repinning method. You also do NOT need a special tool. Just a small flathead screwdriver will do.
HOW TO:
Step 1 - Remove Screen
Disconnect Negative Terminal From Battery
Remove Hazard lights switch
If you do this without disconnecting the battery, you run the risk of throwing a code for SRS
Remove Bezel and Vent unit the RIGHT way (Don't follow most YouTube Tutorials) The Right Way Video
Use Radio Removal Tools with the hook side facing inward. Put in all 4, and then simply slide it out. There are 2 cables to disconnect
Step 2 (BONUS) - Fix Annoying Knob!
Does it bother you when adjusting your volume, that the power logo spins with the knob? Now is the time to easily fix this, for FREE!
Pull Volume Knob off new screen (Just pull hard, it'll come off)
Plug in 2 cables. Note, the round 4 pin plug will not slide in. There are 2 little nubs you need to shave off with a razor blade. Then it will fit
Assemble the bezel back together if you'd like. But I waited until the end to do this, so I could test everything first
Step 4 - USB Port
Note, the USB port I ended up using is not compatible with Carplay, but it is with Android Auto. Instructions are the same, but your port will likely have an AUX cable. You can wire this in fully without needing a harness. I did not need to do this on mine.
Take out cubby behind shift knob. Note, put the car in neutral with the parking brake on. It'll make it easier to get out
Unplug the MDI port. There are 2 cables
Your new USB port has the same 4 pin plug as the MDI port. Except for it has an additional 2 pins on the top. These are to charge your phone. As long as you got the female end of the plug in addition to the USB port, you'll be in great shape. Open the little purple door, and slide out the cable end. Swap the new cable end on the cable. Now your 4 pins are set up correctly.
Now, you need to get wires to the 2 pins on top. Check out the tutorial on post 1307 here. Take the red and the black wires from the rectangle plug from the MDI. You can easily dismantle this all with a small screwdriver. See my video above for a bit more clarity. Pry open the door on the plug. Take a tiny screwdriver and press down on the pin latch. It'll slide out.
Once you have these 2 out, insert them into the top 2 slots on the new USB port you got. Refer to the tutorial link above to be sure you get the polarity right!
Put the cubby back in. Plug in the plug. Don't lock it all back into place until you test. But that's it!
Take out Headunit from glovebox using the same removal tools
Unplug everything in the back.
The "quad lock" is the big plug. You'll see there are smaller plugs inside. Take out the Green one. It slides out with a little tab
I had an extra green plug that came with my new unit. All you need in the green one now is a red and a black for power. Red will go in port 3. Black will go in port 4. I simply put these wires in my new green adapter. And I left the old one tucked behind. So if I ever want to go back to how it was, it'll be easy.
Now you can insert the headunit back into its slot. Don't snap it in yet until you do your testing. It is possible to leave it hanging out about an inch and still have the glovebox door shut FYI
This part is quite simple. I'm linking out to the tutorials I followed since there's no need for me to rehash all this here.
Connect your battery back up, and press the power button on your car (it does not need to be running)
The system should fully boot up. Test it out to ensure the screen and buttons are working. Plug in your phone and Android Auto/Carplay will be working. You will notice there is text on the screen that says "Component Protection." This reduces some of the functionality including audio from coming out of the speakers. So the next step is to deactivate Component Protection.
Active the Green Engineering Menu. This will allow us to connect to the unit via USB/Ethernet
Now we need to be able to load scripts from the SD card. To do this, run this Activator by Congo and Duke. **11/24 update this is dead. Try here instead for the meantime.**
Now, connect your ethernet adapter to the car and to to your computer. Get the two to communicate using this tutorial. You will need to download Putty for free. **11/24 update** the "this tutorial" hyperlink seems to be dead. To the best of my memory, this is how to get the two to communicate. Network and Internet -> Change adapter settings -> Local Area Connection Properties -> Properties -> Check and choose "Properties" on: Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4)
In the TCP/IP v4 adapter settings, manually enter IP 192.168.1.10 and the mask should be 255.255.255.0
Next, launch the Putty program and create a connection with 192.168.1.4 with port 23.
Login root, no password BE SURE to create a BACKUP!
To do this, we drop the MST2_backup.sh script onto the memory card.
In putty, we execute it:
cd / && /sdc1/MST2_backup.sh
6. Check to see what Software train/version you are using. You get to this screen by pressing and holding the menu button for about 3 seconds. My version is MST2_US_VW_P0504D. This means it is a standard (non-nav unit), USA market, Volkswagen. The D at the end refers to it being manufactured by Delphi. And the P0504 is telling us what firmware version this is running. It is my understanding this is the newest firmware this unit should have. I believe these following steps will work with any firmware that is similar to this. If this does not work, there may be a more specific script for you. I would go to mibsolution.one and mibwiki.one for assistance. They have a Telegram chat group which is very helpful with the real experts.
7. Now it's time to set up your SD card. On a Windows computer, format it to Fat32. Then drag these two scripts onto the SD card. The SD card will need ONLY these 2 files on it delphi.sh and delphibin.ifs. NOTE: This is safe to do as long as your software train ends in P0504D. If it does, not, read my step 6 a few sentences above.
8. Insert SD Card into the headunit
9. Final step! All you need to do is type in the following on your computer through your Putty app. The full tutorial can also be found in the CP patch section here.
10. Unit will restart, and CP will no longer show up! Everything will function as it ought to!
View attachment 288233
Note: You may need to go into byte_19_USB under long adaptations in your OBDeleven to set the port to USB_ipod to get AppleCarplay to work.
Note 2: You will not need to use any SwAP or FeC codes in this process. The script will remove the check for CP, and as long as your donor head unit already had Android Auto/Apple Carplay, you will be good to go.
Conclusion
Hope this all is helpful! It took me many hours of research to fully understand how to do this with my budget constraints, and I am very pleased that this indeed is possible to do without needing external help and coding. Parts are getting cheaper and more available now that the mk7 is aging. So if you have a 2015 Golf, this upgrade is a MUST!
**11/2024 UPDATE - It seems that some of the sites are no longer active. I have tried to update this thread to reduce the number of external links. It may be very difficult to remove the CP yourself on your own now unless you have the exact software train I have.**
Firstly, thank you to everyone for the information on the mega MIB1 > MIB2 thread.
After a few months of planning, and securing the parts, I have now successfully upgraded my 2015 Golf Sportwagen S TDI to have MIB 2 with Android Auto and Apple Carplay.
Here's a quick video over view of the steps!
There's alot of information out there....and there are several methods to accomplish this. This is the cheapest way that does not require a remote programmer or trip to the dealer. You also do NOT need to purchase a new wiring harness. This valuable nugget of information has been buried prevoiusly.
**WARNING** It is possible to brick your unit, so be sure you are fully understanding the risk before proceeding. Read and understand the instructions before doing. Please read the full tutorials and videos I link out to so that you get the full context. The purpose of this thread is to simply this streamlined method into a single thread without needing to read through threads with hundreds of posts. This process is easy and should not take very long. Double check your work as you go along. Being detailed oriented is the key to success here.
PARTS NEEDED
1. 6.5" Screen - 3G0919605H (~$100)
The 5.8" Screen will not work, so you need to upgrade to the 6.5" or 8". The 6.5" is more common and can be found on 2016 and 2017 pre-facelift mk7 Golfs.The other advantage if going with 6.5" is that you can still use the existing bezel you already have. If you want to upgrade to the 8" screen use Part # 5G0919606 and Bezel Part #5G1819728AFDMD
2. MIB2 Glovebox Headunit - 3q0035844 (~$100)
I got mine off a 2017 Golf S. The manufacturer of the unit is Delphi. That is a MUST for this method to work. Seems that most units I came across in the North American market are Delphi. Try to get one in a similar model level as the car you have. It makes programming easier later on. For example, my car and the car I got mine from both had standard non-Fender audio. If there is a mismatch, there will likely be additional programming you'll need to do later on so the car recognizes the different audio setup.
3. USB Port - 5g0035222 with an inside part of 5q0035726j ($20) Get the plug that connects into it too.
5q0035726J or 5q0035726E should work well. The USB port is fitted in an outer shell with the part number 5g0035222. Some USB ports do not support Apple Carplay. Seems that most do support Android Auto. Get one off a 2016 or 2017. Seems they charged the part number in 2018 which is not compatible. I obtained one with part number 5q0035726M on the inner USB unit. It was off a 2019 sportwagen. Android Auto works, but Carplay does not. Soon I will pick up the correct plug, but it's fine for the time being since I have an Android phone
MIB does not support USB 3.0, so you must get an adapter with USB 2.0. This is the one I used and it worked well. You also need an ethernet (RJ-45) cable. You also need a Windows computer. I only have a windows desktop, so I made sure my cable was long enough to reach.
5. SD Card 4GB Formatted to FAT32 (You probably already have one, if not ~$10.)
Thanks to this thread, which I will go into detail about below. All you need to do is move some pins around in the existing wiring harness. Many people buy a harness off Aliexpress and struggle to feed it through. Save yourself time and money, with this repinning method. You also do NOT need a special tool. Just a small flathead screwdriver will do.
HOW TO:
Step 1 - Remove Screen
Disconnect Negative Terminal From Battery
Remove Hazard lights switch
If you do this without disconnecting the battery, you run the risk of throwing a code for SRS
Remove Bezel and Vent unit the RIGHT way (Don't follow most YouTube Tutorials) The Right Way Video
Use Radio Removal Tools with the hook side facing inward. Put in all 4, and then simply slide it out. There are 2 cables to disconnect
Step 2 (BONUS) - Fix Annoying Knob!
Does it bother you when adjusting your volume, that the power logo spins with the knob? Now is the time to easily fix this, for FREE!
Pull Volume Knob off new screen (Just pull hard, it'll come off)
Plug in 2 cables. Note, the round 4 pin plug will not slide in. There are 2 little nubs you need to shave off with a razor blade. Then it will fit
Assemble the bezel back together if you'd like. But I waited until the end to do this, so I could test everything first
Step 4 - USB Port
Note, the USB port I ended up using is not compatible with Carplay, but it is with Android Auto. Instructions are the same, but your port will likely have an AUX cable. You can wire this in fully without needing a harness. I did not need to do this on mine.
Take out cubby behind shift knob. Note, put the car in neutral with the parking brake on. It'll make it easier to get out
Unplug the MDI port. There are 2 cables
Your new USB port has the same 4 pin plug as the MDI port. Except for it has an additional 2 pins on the top. These are to charge your phone. As long as you got the female end of the plug in addition to the USB port, you'll be in great shape. Open the little purple door, and slide out the cable end. Swap the new cable end on the cable. Now your 4 pins are set up correctly.
Now, you need to get wires to the 2 pins on top. Check out the tutorial on post 1307 here. Take the red and the black wires from the rectangle plug from the MDI. You can easily dismantle this all with a small screwdriver. See my video above for a bit more clarity. Pry open the door on the plug. Take a tiny screwdriver and press down on the pin latch. It'll slide out.
Once you have these 2 out, insert them into the top 2 slots on the new USB port you got. Refer to the tutorial link above to be sure you get the polarity right!
Put the cubby back in. Plug in the plug. Don't lock it all back into place until you test. But that's it!
Take out Headunit from glovebox using the same removal tools
Unplug everything in the back.
The "quad lock" is the big plug. You'll see there are smaller plugs inside. Take out the Green one. It slides out with a little tab
I had an extra green plug that came with my new unit. All you need in the green one now is a red and a black for power. Red will go in port 3. Black will go in port 4. I simply put these wires in my new green adapter. And I left the old one tucked behind. So if I ever want to go back to how it was, it'll be easy.
Now you can insert the headunit back into its slot. Don't snap it in yet until you do your testing. It is possible to leave it hanging out about an inch and still have the glovebox door shut FYI
This part is quite simple. I'm linking out to the tutorials I followed since there's no need for me to rehash all this here.
Connect your battery back up, and press the power button on your car (it does not need to be running)
The system should fully boot up. Test it out to ensure the screen and buttons are working. Plug in your phone and Android Auto/Carplay will be working. You will notice there is text on the screen that says "Component Protection." This reduces some of the functionality including audio from coming out of the speakers. So the next step is to deactivate Component Protection.
Active the Green Engineering Menu. This will allow us to connect to the unit via USB/Ethernet
Now we need to be able to load scripts from the SD card. To do this, run this Activator by Congo and Duke. **11/24 update this is dead. Try here instead for the meantime.**
Now, connect your ethernet adapter to the car and to to your computer. Get the two to communicate using this tutorial. You will need to download Putty for free. **11/24 update** the "this tutorial" hyperlink seems to be dead. To the best of my memory, this is how to get the two to communicate. Network and Internet -> Change adapter settings -> Local Area Connection Properties -> Properties -> Check and choose "Properties" on: Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4)
In the TCP/IP v4 adapter settings, manually enter IP 192.168.1.10 and the mask should be 255.255.255.0
Next, launch the Putty program and create a connection with 192.168.1.4 with port 23.
Login root, no password BE SURE to create a BACKUP!
To do this, we drop the MST2_backup.sh script onto the memory card.
In putty, we execute it:
cd / && /sdc1/MST2_backup.sh
6. Check to see what Software train/version you are using. You get to this screen by pressing and holding the menu button for about 3 seconds. My version is MST2_US_VW_P0504D. This means it is a standard (non-nav unit), USA market, Volkswagen. The D at the end refers to it being manufactured by Delphi. And the P0504 is telling us what firmware version this is running. It is my understanding this is the newest firmware this unit should have. I believe these following steps will work with any firmware that is similar to this. If this does not work, there may be a more specific script for you. I would go to mibsolution.one and mibwiki.one for assistance. They have a Telegram chat group which is very helpful with the real experts.
7. Now it's time to set up your SD card. On a Windows computer, format it to Fat32. Then drag these two scripts onto the SD card. The SD card will need ONLY these 2 files on it delphi.sh and delphibin.ifs. NOTE: This is safe to do as long as your software train ends in P0504D. If it does, not, read my step 6 a few sentences above.
8. Insert SD Card into the headunit
9. Final step! All you need to do is type in the following on your computer through your Putty app. The full tutorial can also be found in the CP patch section here.
10. Unit will restart, and CP will no longer show up! Everything will function as it ought to!
View attachment 288233
Note: You may need to go into byte_19_USB under long adaptations in your OBDeleven to set the port to USB_ipod to get AppleCarplay to work.
Note 2: You will not need to use any SwAP or FeC codes in this process. The script will remove the check for CP, and as long as your donor head unit already had Android Auto/Apple Carplay, you will be good to go.
Conclusion
Hope this all is helpful! It took me many hours of research to fully understand how to do this with my budget constraints, and I am very pleased that this indeed is possible to do without needing external help and coding. Parts are getting cheaper and more available now that the mk7 is aging. So if you have a 2015 Golf, this upgrade is a MUST!
Looking for a little help with a recent MIB1 - MIB2 conversion and wondering if i did something wrong.
Background: 2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI S
Bought the Delphi MIB 2 3Q0035844A Headunit which is currently on MST2_US_VW_P0635D (MU: 0757) and the Golf Alltrack OEM Dash Radio Display Screen 3G0919605H display.
Installed head unit and display and it booted up just fine. Ran the Activator with MST2_Activator_Made_By_Congo_and_Duke_V3.
Worked just fine but still displayed the Component Protection Active message over the display.
Reformatted the SD card and installed the MST2_US_VW_P0635D from VW_Delphi_MST_CP_OFF_all_patches so the SD card had delphi.sh on it and delphibin.ifs on it.
Once the display loaded up it showed a blue "update" display followed by a green update sucessful screen. The display then went black, rebooted and now does a Boot Loop to the splash screen
Is the headunit bricked or is it possible to recover via fresh firmware install? Thanks in advance.
Hi, Yes I'd be happy to send it to you. Do you have a Dropbox (or similar) file sharing link? I strongly recommend that you confirm your hardware config is identical to mine (label photo attached)View attachment 300311
Just saw your reply. It looked like it was the correct one, MST2_US_VW_P0890D, However I am thinking it was for the Plus like Simrwil was saying and not the standard. I am going to have to look into it because it was not very clear and misleading on the files I got.
I think I ran into exactly the same situation as you guys. Got a 3Q0035844B unit with software train MST2_US_VW_P0890D and I attempted to use this patch:
,
which may apparently be for a "plus" and not a "standard"? Not sure what the differences would be or w/e. The result is now that the boot screen turns on for ~10 sec then goes black. Rebooting the unit repeats this behavior. I still can connect and execute commands through telnet, but the issue is that I did not backup the original delphibin.ifs.
I updated it through the SD card method expecting it to not work but it actually did (because it didn't work on a p0504d unit I got at first - which once unlocked is now having random audio cutouts ) so I did not get a backup of the original delphibin.ifs... Does anyone still have a backup of their original delphibin.ifs. from this type of unit above? If I can restore function then I guess I will have to update to a newer train that has a patch available, unless someone knows of the correct patch for this unit?