Optinumb
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- Location
- Spokane, WA
Hey guys, I couldn't find a good guide on replacing Bi-Xenon Bulbs on a mk7 GTI so I decided to make one myself, Cheers! :beer:
Usual 'how to' rules apply - this is just a guide. If you are at all unsure of what you are doing, get it done professionally.
The author nor the website provider is in any way responsible if you break your car following this guide.
Note: This is for people worried about breaking little clips and such while removing headlights and loosening bumper, also anyone worried about messing up their headlight position and aim.
So I just got a new GTI a couple weeks ago with Bi-Xenon headlights (Lighting Package)
I decided I wanted to change the OEM Factory Bulbs out for higher Kelvin ones for a whiter light output.
I pop the hood only to see a completely sealed off cover over the bulbs
I start googling for guides on how to replace the bulbs and literally only found one guide, which actually requires you to remove a bunch of crap including the grille and headlights. :banghead:
I started researching more and luckily found a DIY guide in a completely foreign language, even though I had no idea what it said, I saw the pictures and knew how to get it done.
Here you go folks, my detailed write-up on replacing the Bi-Xenon bulbs without removing anything.
If you need any more information, here are links to some websites that helped me out with my bulb replacement.
http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6422
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uqk1mkgtr24pbls/wechsel-brenner-xenon-dla-golf-vii-mk7.pdf?dl=0
For the Mk7 GTI, you need D3S size Xenon bulbs, BTW it uses one bulb for lows and highs, hence the name Bi-Xenon.
Here is a link to the bulbs that I purchased. Warning: Do not buy bulbs on eBay, as you can get fakes.
On this website it says they are 5500K but the bulbs I have say 5000K on the box. Not sure which is correct.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/c...sram-xenarc-66340-cbi-49224.html#.V3iQQzXKjSY
Estimated time: 2-3 Hours
Required Tools:
2x T-20 (Torx) Bits[/B] (2nd one used for hard to reach fender lining screw)
Flathead screwdriver
6mm wrench (or crescent wrench https://www.grainger.com/product/3ZH33 Thanks TwinkE)
Socket Screwdriver
New Bulbs (D3S Xenon)
Alcohol pads (Should come with bulbs)
Dirty clothes, you may end up laying on the ground to get a better angle for removing bolts.
Driver and Passenger sides are completely identical apart from placement of a fender screw on passenger side,
which is why you need the socket screwdriver and extra T-20 Bit:
This is what you are confronted with when you look behind your headlights, a little tight on room huh? Don't worry, you won't have to remove your headlights
Because of the lack of room in-between the fuse box and bulb cover, no ratcheting tools or bit-drivers will work, so let's create our own tool:
Grab your 6mm wrench and your T-20 Bit, you're gonna have to jam your bit into the round end of your wrench, find anything you can rest your wrench on with
a slot below for room for the bit, then center the bit, lightly and carefully hit the back end of the bit until it jams into the wrench and is nice and sturdy.
If that doesn't work out for you, you can try to JB Weld the bit into a 7mm or 8mm wrench like the foreign guy did in that link at the top.
Or buy this tool, I haven't used it myself so I am not sure how it will fit but its worth a shot https://www.grainger.com/product/3ZH33
Now it is time to remove the forward half of the fender liner. I found pointing my tires all the way away from the car gave me access to everything.
You can also try pointing your tires towards the car if it is more comfortable to you. Grab your new tool and start removing the fender line screws,
but only remove the forward half of the fender liner, that is all you need. Be sure to keep the screws in a safe place so you don't lose them.
With the screws removed you can now pull back the fender liner, on the passenger side I was able to jam the fender liner behind the tire so it doesn't get in the way.
You have now revealed access to the bottom part of the bulb cover.
Now use your new tool to start unscrewing the 5 bolts that hold the bulb cover. Do the bottom three from inside the fender, and the top two from the hood.
This may take a LOT of patience because of the lack of room, be very careful not to strip the head of the bolts, if you do, your bolt will get stuck and you're screwed.
Also when the bolt is almost out, remove it with your fingers so you don't accidentally drop it, you will need all 5 to create the best water-proof seal around the bulbs.
If you're having trouble getting the bit into the bolt heads, you can guide the bit in by holding it like this:
There is one bolt from the top that you won't be able to unscrew unless you get the fuse box cover off, so take that off and you're set.
Now there's plenty of room to remove that one bolt.
Once all bolts are out, carefully remove the cover through the top.
Now you have revealed your bulb!
There are 2 clips holding the bulb in place. Standing in front of the car, they will be on the left side of the bulb. If you can take a closer look you can see the ends of the clips,
and how there is a slot guiding where the clips can travel. So push the clips toward the front of the car, then push to the side to release.
Now the bulb should be loose, there is a cable plug attached to the bottom of the bulb. The best way I have found to do this is to reach your right hand under the fender, then use
your left hand to grab the bulb from the hood. First you need to remove the bulb half-way to make clearance to remove the plug. Now squeeze the sides of the plug and pull
down to get the plug off. Make sure to try and hold the bulb very steadily so you don't pull down too hard and damage your OEM bulb. Once the plug is disconnected, very carefully
remove the bulb and try not to allow the glass to touch any dirty surfaces.
Now get your new bulb ready and use an alcohol wipe to clean the glass before you insert your new bulb. Very carefully guide your bulb into the retainer, so as to not
get any grease or dirt on the glass. Insert the bulb half-way and plug the cable back into the bottom until it clicks. Make sure to hold the bulb firmly so it doesn't get damaged.
Now you can fully insert your bulb. Now push the bulb towards the front of the car till it is flatly seated, and guide the clips around the opposite way that you removed them,
and the bulb should be held down securely, if it is not make sure to check that both clips are seated correctly.
Now most importantly, try out your lights to make sure the bulb is working, you don't want to put everything back together to find your bulb is defective.
Here's a pic of my bulbs first warm-up:
Now place the cover back on, and thread in each bolt by hand as far as your strength will allow. Now fully-tighten one bolt on the left and right side of the cover first
to make sure the rubber seal is seated correctly, then tighten all the bolts. Be careful as to not over-tighten, you might put a crack in the cover, which will now allow
condensation into your housing.
The passenger side is essentially identical, but might be a bit trickier to get the correct angle to easily unscrew the bolts from under the fender. This side will take
half the time since you already know what's what. Don't forget to put your fuse box cover back on!
Well that's it for the guide, I hope it helps all you guys out there that think the only way is to remove the headlights. CHEERS! :beer:
Now time for some comparison pics. OEM 4300k vs CBI 5000-5500k. I was told there is a break-in period and the bulb actually does get brighter and whiter.
OEM ↓
NEW ↓
OEM ↓
NEW ↓
OEM ↓
NEW ↓
OEM HIGHBEAMS ↓
NEW HIGHBEAMS ↓
OEM ↓
NEW ↓ - Yellow at the top could be some of the cutoff
Pic of new bulbs with most accurate white balance, matches the DRLs perfectly!
Anyways hope it helped! This might even push you into getting 6000K bulbs instead of 5000/5500k. 6000K would perfectly match the fogs I think. :beer:
Almost 2 Weeks Photos:
After burn-in they definitely got a lot whiter.
Usual 'how to' rules apply - this is just a guide. If you are at all unsure of what you are doing, get it done professionally.
The author nor the website provider is in any way responsible if you break your car following this guide.
Note: This is for people worried about breaking little clips and such while removing headlights and loosening bumper, also anyone worried about messing up their headlight position and aim.
So I just got a new GTI a couple weeks ago with Bi-Xenon headlights (Lighting Package)
I decided I wanted to change the OEM Factory Bulbs out for higher Kelvin ones for a whiter light output.
I pop the hood only to see a completely sealed off cover over the bulbs
I start googling for guides on how to replace the bulbs and literally only found one guide, which actually requires you to remove a bunch of crap including the grille and headlights. :banghead:
I started researching more and luckily found a DIY guide in a completely foreign language, even though I had no idea what it said, I saw the pictures and knew how to get it done.
Here you go folks, my detailed write-up on replacing the Bi-Xenon bulbs without removing anything.
If you need any more information, here are links to some websites that helped me out with my bulb replacement.
http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6422
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uqk1mkgtr24pbls/wechsel-brenner-xenon-dla-golf-vii-mk7.pdf?dl=0
For the Mk7 GTI, you need D3S size Xenon bulbs, BTW it uses one bulb for lows and highs, hence the name Bi-Xenon.
Here is a link to the bulbs that I purchased. Warning: Do not buy bulbs on eBay, as you can get fakes.
On this website it says they are 5500K but the bulbs I have say 5000K on the box. Not sure which is correct.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/c...sram-xenarc-66340-cbi-49224.html#.V3iQQzXKjSY
Estimated time: 2-3 Hours
Required Tools:
2x T-20 (Torx) Bits[/B] (2nd one used for hard to reach fender lining screw)
Flathead screwdriver
6mm wrench (or crescent wrench https://www.grainger.com/product/3ZH33 Thanks TwinkE)
Socket Screwdriver
New Bulbs (D3S Xenon)
Alcohol pads (Should come with bulbs)
Dirty clothes, you may end up laying on the ground to get a better angle for removing bolts.
Driver and Passenger sides are completely identical apart from placement of a fender screw on passenger side,
which is why you need the socket screwdriver and extra T-20 Bit:
This is what you are confronted with when you look behind your headlights, a little tight on room huh? Don't worry, you won't have to remove your headlights
Because of the lack of room in-between the fuse box and bulb cover, no ratcheting tools or bit-drivers will work, so let's create our own tool:
Grab your 6mm wrench and your T-20 Bit, you're gonna have to jam your bit into the round end of your wrench, find anything you can rest your wrench on with
a slot below for room for the bit, then center the bit, lightly and carefully hit the back end of the bit until it jams into the wrench and is nice and sturdy.
If that doesn't work out for you, you can try to JB Weld the bit into a 7mm or 8mm wrench like the foreign guy did in that link at the top.
Or buy this tool, I haven't used it myself so I am not sure how it will fit but its worth a shot https://www.grainger.com/product/3ZH33
Now it is time to remove the forward half of the fender liner. I found pointing my tires all the way away from the car gave me access to everything.
You can also try pointing your tires towards the car if it is more comfortable to you. Grab your new tool and start removing the fender line screws,
but only remove the forward half of the fender liner, that is all you need. Be sure to keep the screws in a safe place so you don't lose them.
With the screws removed you can now pull back the fender liner, on the passenger side I was able to jam the fender liner behind the tire so it doesn't get in the way.
You have now revealed access to the bottom part of the bulb cover.
Now use your new tool to start unscrewing the 5 bolts that hold the bulb cover. Do the bottom three from inside the fender, and the top two from the hood.
This may take a LOT of patience because of the lack of room, be very careful not to strip the head of the bolts, if you do, your bolt will get stuck and you're screwed.
Also when the bolt is almost out, remove it with your fingers so you don't accidentally drop it, you will need all 5 to create the best water-proof seal around the bulbs.
If you're having trouble getting the bit into the bolt heads, you can guide the bit in by holding it like this:
There is one bolt from the top that you won't be able to unscrew unless you get the fuse box cover off, so take that off and you're set.
Now there's plenty of room to remove that one bolt.
Once all bolts are out, carefully remove the cover through the top.
Now you have revealed your bulb!
There are 2 clips holding the bulb in place. Standing in front of the car, they will be on the left side of the bulb. If you can take a closer look you can see the ends of the clips,
and how there is a slot guiding where the clips can travel. So push the clips toward the front of the car, then push to the side to release.
Now the bulb should be loose, there is a cable plug attached to the bottom of the bulb. The best way I have found to do this is to reach your right hand under the fender, then use
your left hand to grab the bulb from the hood. First you need to remove the bulb half-way to make clearance to remove the plug. Now squeeze the sides of the plug and pull
down to get the plug off. Make sure to try and hold the bulb very steadily so you don't pull down too hard and damage your OEM bulb. Once the plug is disconnected, very carefully
remove the bulb and try not to allow the glass to touch any dirty surfaces.
Now get your new bulb ready and use an alcohol wipe to clean the glass before you insert your new bulb. Very carefully guide your bulb into the retainer, so as to not
get any grease or dirt on the glass. Insert the bulb half-way and plug the cable back into the bottom until it clicks. Make sure to hold the bulb firmly so it doesn't get damaged.
Now you can fully insert your bulb. Now push the bulb towards the front of the car till it is flatly seated, and guide the clips around the opposite way that you removed them,
and the bulb should be held down securely, if it is not make sure to check that both clips are seated correctly.
Now most importantly, try out your lights to make sure the bulb is working, you don't want to put everything back together to find your bulb is defective.
Here's a pic of my bulbs first warm-up:
Now place the cover back on, and thread in each bolt by hand as far as your strength will allow. Now fully-tighten one bolt on the left and right side of the cover first
to make sure the rubber seal is seated correctly, then tighten all the bolts. Be careful as to not over-tighten, you might put a crack in the cover, which will now allow
condensation into your housing.
The passenger side is essentially identical, but might be a bit trickier to get the correct angle to easily unscrew the bolts from under the fender. This side will take
half the time since you already know what's what. Don't forget to put your fuse box cover back on!
Well that's it for the guide, I hope it helps all you guys out there that think the only way is to remove the headlights. CHEERS! :beer:
Now time for some comparison pics. OEM 4300k vs CBI 5000-5500k. I was told there is a break-in period and the bulb actually does get brighter and whiter.
OEM ↓
NEW ↓
OEM ↓
NEW ↓
OEM ↓
NEW ↓
OEM HIGHBEAMS ↓
NEW HIGHBEAMS ↓
OEM ↓
NEW ↓ - Yellow at the top could be some of the cutoff
Pic of new bulbs with most accurate white balance, matches the DRLs perfectly!
Anyways hope it helped! This might even push you into getting 6000K bulbs instead of 5000/5500k. 6000K would perfectly match the fogs I think. :beer:
Almost 2 Weeks Photos:
After burn-in they definitely got a lot whiter.
Last edited:
