DerHase's 2019 GTI Rabbit Edition: HPDE shenanigans

[DerHase]

Got the heat exchanger stack sorted and ready for crossmember install tomorrow. Will post my more in-depth thoughts on the DO88 part another time. Overall great quality, but minor fitment issues that seem like oversights are kind of annoying. I know at least one issue is MK7 vs 7.5 related, but not sure about the other.

 

[DerHase]

Continued

 

[AzteCypher]

I just did my DO88 intercooler last week and I ran into the same fitment issues you did on my R. I had to trim that passenger bracket and clip part of the plastic bracket on the other one to get it to slide in properly. It never occurred to me to measure the clip opening like you did, but that explains why I had a heck of a time getting that to lock in. I'm still happy with mine but it was more fiddly than I expected.

 

[DerHase]

Back together fully now!

The 26mm rear bar was a decent change but honestly I was expecting a lot more based on the hype and experience with my Mazda2. Pending on-track experience and photos to observe what’s going on, I may just sell the front bar.

The intercooler is great… really nice having the same power pull after pull. I will need to play around with my data logger tomorrow.

Also bled the dementors out of my brakes, threw the pads on, and wore them in a bit.

The DS1.11 rears are LOUD. But you can definitely tell that once they get a bit warmer, there is far less ABS intrusion up front. Can’t wait to try them on track.

 

[DerHase]

Forgot here are pics of shroud/air guide trimming also needed.

Also had rattling noticeable in the lower condenser mounts. Could bend the tabs like CPO on YouTube did, but I just put a dab of gorilla snot on the mounts to keep them put. If it ever gets removed I’ll put a few pieces of Tesa tape on the mount to silence it.

You can also see how close it gets to the center bracket now too. There is about 2mm of clearance confirmed using feeler gauges.

 

[DerHase]

And because I like numbers - the DO88 IC pushes the condenser about 17-18mm further forward with no real room to spare. YOU MUST INSTALL A SHORTER BOLT IN THE CENTER. Or grind the stock one down.

The radiator gets pushed about 8-9mm further backwards vs stock for reference.

 

[DerHase]

Had so much fun driving it the other night I drove it to work. It is WAY too easy to find yourself going 85-90mph without much thought

Took it to work to do a radar calibration and test out ODIS since we had some issues with it recently. Had to scribble over the target - proprietary company tool.

Logged IATs... Basically 9-10F above ambient when cruising, and they drop sharply when on the throttle.



Unfortunately Fastivus got rescheduled and I can't make the new date (Oct 23). Not sure what I'll do before December at VIR... Maybe I'll try to do an autocross or track cross depending on scheduling.

 

[DerHase]

So Fastivus being rescheduled was a blessing in disguise.

I forgot to reinstall one of the stupid wiring clips to the headlamp on the passenger side (I sat it on my toolbox with intent to put electrical tape on the harness to put the clip back on). So Saturday I popped the hood to take care of that and noticed this:



Radiator/cooling fan/intercooler were just laying back against the throttle body. Couldn't tell if the clip(s) were broken or if I just screwed up and didn't fully install them or what so I pulled the bumper.

Further inspection found the intercooler clips not fully seated apparently. They were not broken so I guess I just didn't fully seat the clips the first time. This is what I get for doing the installs during the week at 2-3am...



This is what it looked like AFTER I mostly shoved the intercooler back forwards - Was hoping to get away without pulling the bumper at first but that was a no-go.


So after making sure they were fully clipped in this time... it's good to go.



Better clearance now...



And even had time to check out a new pizza joint... This place is AMAZING... they are an honest-to-God legit NY pizza place. The owner's dad had a shop in Queens that he grew up working in and then took over and was running up until his father passed, sold it a few years ago and moved down to Newport News. He said he tried to get out of the business but he just missed it and couldn't stay away. Plus he couldn't find a good slice of pizza anywhere on the peninsula so he had to do something about that

 

[scrllock]

Back together fully now!

The 26mm rear bar was a decent change but honestly I was expecting a lot more based on the hype and experience with my Mazda2. Pending on-track experience and photos to observe what’s going on, I may just sell the front bar.

The intercooler is great… really nice having the same power pull after pull. I will need to play around with my data logger tomorrow.

Also bled the dementors out of my brakes, threw the pads on, and wore them in a bit.

The DS1.11 rears are LOUD. But you can definitely tell that once they get a bit warmer, there is far less ABS intrusion up front. Can’t wait to try them on track.

Have you messed with the ABS adaptations much? I started re-doing mine after my new front setup seemed more aggressive, someone noted that "hydraulic brake booster" (not just "brake booster") might affect f:r bias.

 

[DerHase]

Have you messed with the ABS adaptations much? I started re-doing mine after my new front setup seemed more aggressive, someone noted that "hydraulic brake booster" (not just "brake booster") might affect f:r bias.

Hmmm a quick Google found what you're talking about... I hadn't run across that before. What is the security code used? I believe I have (accidentally) tried changing that parameter a few times (mixed up with "brake boost" adaptation) and never got it to go through.
Here is what I'm running currently for reference (in 03 ABS address):

03 Brakes

- Brake booster - 25004 (stock 5, set to 2)

- Expanded differential lock (XDS)- 20103 (stock standard, set to weak)

- Straight ahead brake stabilization - 25757 (stock activated, set to not activated)

- Hydralic Brake Assistant - 11966 (stock normal, set to not activated)

I bet you could probably play around with the settings, do say 8 HARD stops from highway speeds in a row, then get out and shoot a temp gun at your rotors to see if there is any notable difference in temperatures. Would probably be best to do a solid A-B-A test with maybe 30 min between each to allow adequate cooldown time, etc.
Alternatively I know brake pressure can be logged (though I don't know about front vs rear individually).

At some point I intend to datalog a bunch of crap but it's low on the list of priorities.

 

[scrllock]

I'll note it next time I change it. It was one of the obd11 suggested codes.

 

[GTIfan99]

Have you messed with the ABS adaptations much? I started re-doing mine after my new front setup seemed more aggressive, someone noted that "hydraulic brake booster" (not just "brake booster") might affect f:r bias.

Yeah, I cooked the brakes at Daytona, which is actually hard to do, it's pretty easy on brakes, so I put hydraulic brake booster back to the stock value.

 

[scrllock]

Yeah, I cooked the brakes at Daytona, which is actually hard to do, it's pretty easy on brakes, so I put hydraulic brake booster back to the stock value.

Cooked which brakes after going up or down?

 

[GTIfan99]

I

Cooked which brakes after going up or down?

Up.

 

[ZoomnRx]

Just got the Rabbit back from detail and ceramic coating, hoping it'll make it easier to wash regularly + scrub rubber marks from it after events

Used Gilmore's Detailing in Newport News, highly recommendView attachment 253146

View attachment 253147

Just found your thread. I’m local over in Suffolk if you ever want a hand wrenching. also, would you mind sharing how much you paid for the detail and ceramic coating? If you prefer, please PM. Thanks in advance.