Significantly so.
7
DCC Retrofit
- Thread starter Cuzoe
- Start date
Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
This is a clarification/correction of inaccurate info from me in post #31. Credit to user @darkchina811 on the Ross Tech Forums for catching my error and providing the correct info.
Final verdict on 2 pin connectors, after confusing myself with wrong accelerometers. So when I did my initial research I found DCC accelerometer part number 5Q0 907 651, which is indicated in one of my early posts in this thread. I bought one on eBay (for the rear left), waiting for a good deal to buy the other two for the front. What the seller sent me is accelerometer part number 5Q0 959 651
. I didn't notice this. But when I started fitting parts to secure wire routing the 2 pin connector wouldn't connect. The rear side impact sensor is in the same area and has a similarly shaped connector (yellow, PN 5K0 973 323). This connector plugged right into the sensor I had received on eBay (not the right part number, but I still had not noticed).
I then compared part numbers of my eBay sensor and the side impact sensor. They were the same... but having never looked up the side impact sensor I incorrectly concluded that the side impact sensors and DCC accelerometers were all the same part number. I should have just referenced my earlier post to be sure, haha. Based on that incorrect assumption, aided by having received the wrong part number sensor... I started down the path of buying new (unnecessary) connectors.
So... DCC accelerometers and dampers all use the same connector. The connectors that came on my harness should work for all. And it's worth noting that the connectors on my harness are 4F0 973 702. Based on pictures this is a match for 4H0 973 702 A (part number provided by @darkchina811 on Ross Tech forums, who built their own harness) but it is not a match for 4H0 973 702 (without the A).
Final verdict on 2 pin connectors, after confusing myself with wrong accelerometers. So when I did my initial research I found DCC accelerometer part number 5Q0 907 651, which is indicated in one of my early posts in this thread. I bought one on eBay (for the rear left), waiting for a good deal to buy the other two for the front. What the seller sent me is accelerometer part number 5Q0 959 651
. I didn't notice this. But when I started fitting parts to secure wire routing the 2 pin connector wouldn't connect. The rear side impact sensor is in the same area and has a similarly shaped connector (yellow, PN 5K0 973 323). This connector plugged right into the sensor I had received on eBay (not the right part number, but I still had not noticed).I then compared part numbers of my eBay sensor and the side impact sensor. They were the same... but having never looked up the side impact sensor I incorrectly concluded that the side impact sensors and DCC accelerometers were all the same part number. I should have just referenced my earlier post to be sure, haha. Based on that incorrect assumption, aided by having received the wrong part number sensor... I started down the path of buying new (unnecessary) connectors.
So... DCC accelerometers and dampers all use the same connector. The connectors that came on my harness should work for all. And it's worth noting that the connectors on my harness are 4F0 973 702. Based on pictures this is a match for 4H0 973 702 A (part number provided by @darkchina811 on Ross Tech forums, who built their own harness) but it is not a match for 4H0 973 702 (without the A).
That sucks, had a similar situation retrofitting the LED headlights where I bought the pre facelift module. I had to double check my sensors as I used your original post for the parts list. Currently waiting on the rest of the parts before I can do anything.
Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
So far my original post has been correct... I just assumed I had received the right sensors when I got them in the mail and didn't verify, could have saved myself a little trouble and a little money. I would argue it cost me some time waiting but in all honestly I probably wasn't going to do any work on the car during the week.
Home Depot hardware rivnut tool worked fine though...
Home Depot hardware rivnut tool worked fine though...
My wallet feels a lot lighter today 
. I received the used shocks from eBay, one of them was shot. I almost took out my current shocks just to compare them but ultimately decided on returning them both. No point in spending all this money to get a half ass result. I ended up ordering a set of B4 shocks from RockAuto. They had the best price but the out the door price was still painful 
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. I received the used shocks from eBay, one of them was shot. I almost took out my current shocks just to compare them but ultimately decided on returning them both. No point in spending all this money to get a half ass result. I ended up ordering a set of B4 shocks from RockAuto. They had the best price but the out the door price was still painful .Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
That's what I'm afraid of. There are quite a few listings that offer "free" shipping but I don't want to pay to ship anything back or argue if a seller decides that return shipping isn't covered for a bad part. I guess in your case it was obviously blown but if it's not obvious I wouldn't have a way of knowing until it's installed. I don't have a basis for a comparison so it would have to be pretty awful. And at that point it can't be returned... What was the total for the B4's, if you don't mind?
The one VW parts website has the Golf R front struts for $200/ea which is pretty good. But like you I don't want a mix of B4 and OEM.
The one VW parts website has the Golf R front struts for $200/ea which is pretty good. But like you I don't want a mix of B4 and OEM.
I found the complete Golf repair manual a while back on the vortex. There is a pdf for almost everything to include how to figure out if a damper is bad. I compared the results to a video on YouTube and it was evident. At this point, I would highly recommend against buying used unless you do a local pickup so you can press down on the dampers and see if it actually springs backup.
Came out to right about $550 shipped. Yeah, ended up on that weird situation OEM/Bilstein combo, but new dampers are better than old I guess. I keep telling my self that the system will make the shocks work as intended, even if my OCD is killing me for having this combo.
Came out to right about $550 shipped. Yeah, ended up on that weird situation OEM/Bilstein combo, but new dampers are better than old I guess. I keep telling my self that the system will make the shocks work as intended, even if my OCD is killing me for having this combo
.Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
Ohhhh... so then what is your combo? OEM struts and B4 dampers out back?
At $200 I'm sooooo close to just buying the R struts for the front. I don't expect them to be that much different (if different at all) from the GTI struts. I'm trying to convince myself that the springs (which are, appropriately, specced differently for each) are what really matter. And that VW is doing their usual thing where GTI and R sometimes have different parts that aren't really different, like the gloss black vents I mentioned a while back. Same part physically, but the R vents were half the price
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At $200 I'm sooooo close to just buying the R struts for the front. I don't expect them to be that much different (if different at all) from the GTI struts. I'm trying to convince myself that the springs (which are, appropriately, specced differently for each) are what really matter. And that VW is doing their usual thing where GTI and R sometimes have different parts that aren't really different, like the gloss black vents I mentioned a while back. Same part physically, but the R vents were half the price
.Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
As mentioned, Mk7 TDI has the torsion beam rear and so far I've been going on a hunch that GTI/R rear dampers would work. Today I found the following rear damper part numbers for a 2017 Seat Leon with torsion beam and DCC... 5Q0 513 119L and 119N. The Leon is an MQB car with curb weight listed about 300 lbs lighter than the Mk7 Golf.
What I did find is that some sites that list Bilstein B4 damptronic rear damper (20-238988) show it is an interchange part for the Seat Leon DCC rear damper and the GTI/R DCC rear damper. This makes me somewhat confident that I can order the Bilstein damptronics if I can't find a low mileage set of struts/dampers from a GTI. The Bilsteins are cheaper than new OEM parts so that's the direction I'll go if I decide to buy matching front/rear new parts.
What I did find is that some sites that list Bilstein B4 damptronic rear damper (20-238988) show it is an interchange part for the Seat Leon DCC rear damper and the GTI/R DCC rear damper. This makes me somewhat confident that I can order the Bilstein damptronics if I can't find a low mileage set of struts/dampers from a GTI. The Bilsteins are cheaper than new OEM parts so that's the direction I'll go if I decide to buy matching front/rear new parts.
sopskysalat
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Singapore
Hi Cuzoe, great to find you! Mine golf 7.5 also on rear torsion beam and have been eyeing this upgrade for 1 year. Shall we work together? I spoke to coder, they told me why do i want to upgrade since the rear are not independent. I won't get the max comfort of a rear multi-link unit. And i need new head unit to be able to set DCC. I find retrofitting DCC is the ultimate retrofit after LED headlight which AWD4416 had guided me a great deal in getting it worked with his write up. Good stuff!
I can source for most parts for DCC except rear damper which are aplently at ebay from Leon which you seen it.
I can source for most parts for DCC except rear damper which are aplently at ebay from Leon which you seen it.
Does your Golf have the drive mode selection button? My GTI only has the composition media radio and if I turn on DCC on the Gateway, it changes the drive selection to include DCC.
Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
My car did not have the drive mode selection button from factory. I added the button. Also added modes via remote coding, but only steering and drive train (throttle response). Once I'm done with the all the things I'm working now I hope to add DCC and Engine Sound (actor) to that page.
Found a set of GTI springs locally, removed with less than 3k on them for a coilover upgrade. Struts/dampers are the last thing I need to order specifically for DCC. And probably strut bearings even though mine have less than 1,500 miles on them. I also need to pick a set of pads and order rotors since I'm doing the Macan calipers along with the aluminum knuckle conversion that was needed.
Current plan is to have the car back together and driving in the next 3 weeks, everything wired for DCC but without dampers. Then mid-late November have the struts/dampers installed. This will include aluminum knuckles and new brake setup... and the rear PP brakes that I've had in the garage for 2 years. Reading through some of the DCC documentation it looks like they should work as "normal" dampers when not connected. I'll drive for a couple weeks like that to let the suspension settle (probably not needed since springs are used) then hopefully get everything coded/parameterized mid December. I've tentatively promised my wife she can start parking in the garage again by Christmas.
Found a set of GTI springs locally, removed with less than 3k on them for a coilover upgrade. Struts/dampers are the last thing I need to order specifically for DCC. And probably strut bearings even though mine have less than 1,500 miles on them. I also need to pick a set of pads and order rotors since I'm doing the Macan calipers along with the aluminum knuckle conversion that was needed.
Current plan is to have the car back together and driving in the next 3 weeks, everything wired for DCC but without dampers. Then mid-late November have the struts/dampers installed. This will include aluminum knuckles and new brake setup... and the rear PP brakes that I've had in the garage for 2 years. Reading through some of the DCC documentation it looks like they should work as "normal" dampers when not connected. I'll drive for a couple weeks like that to let the suspension settle (probably not needed since springs are used) then hopefully get everything coded/parameterized mid December. I've tentatively promised my wife she can start parking in the garage again by Christmas.
Im impressed with the level of effort you are putting on this.In comparison, the GTI conversion seams to be a bit simpler. Also appreciate the info regarding the dampers defaulting to a specific behavior. I might start my install this weekend while waiting for the wire harness from AliExpress.
Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
I got this from @mistron71 in a PM, hopefully they don't mind me sharing it... on page 16 it talks about failsafe operation. As I understand it failsafe becomes active if the DCC module senses faults, at which point power is removed from the dampers. Seems to me this should be no different from leaving them disconnected.
DCC Information
DCC Information
@Cuzoe
Finally got everything minus the rivet nut, might have to actually order it as my local hardware stored does not have anything like it. Was looking at the VW wiring diagram but I don't see how the cable for the passenger side shock is supposed to go. I figured I would run it in front of the back seat and follow the other wires through the grommet. What did you end up doing?
For the front wires, I am going out the grommet next to the steering column and just follow the abs wires if I actually find them.
Finally got everything minus the rivet nut, might have to actually order it as my local hardware stored does not have anything like it. Was looking at the VW wiring diagram but I don't see how the cable for the passenger side shock is supposed to go. I figured I would run it in front of the back seat and follow the other wires through the grommet. What did you end up doing?
For the front wires, I am going out the grommet next to the steering column and just follow the abs wires if I actually find them.