GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

Dash Cam Hardwire tips – MK7 2017 GTI

ReadTheBook

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Bay Area Smoke Hell
Car(s)
2017 Sport, 2019 AT
UPDATE 4/8/18 Had my windshield replaced and the guy sliced my USB wire. I have now removed the cigarette lighter/usb car charger apparatus in favor of an all-in-one hardwire kit with inline 5v converter. There are a few kits out there but this one worked well and is nice and inexpensive. Also pictured are auto headlight wires and HomeLink mirror wiring. This is the hardwire kit I purchased. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078T5T21G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



____________ORIGINAL CONTENT______________

So many of you have probably seen SomethingNew71's guide on these forums. It's a good guide and I followed the same general procedures. Running the power cable across the front of head-liner where it meets the windshield, across the a-pillar, and down the weather stripping to the fuse box. That guide is located here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10375&highlight=dash+cam

However thought I would outline a few tweaks/tricks on the install. In case anyone wants to know, I used the a119 camera sold here on Amazon. Best bang for the buck around $100. https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-...8&qid=1484627196&sr=8-1&keywords=spy+tec+a119

Here is a link for the fuse box PDF of our NAR MK7 GTIs - https://www.dropbox.com/s/7m7wc8rdjxjhutf/2016 MK7 GTI Fuse Panel Guide.pdf?dl=0


Alternatively, you can remove the a-pillar trim, run the cable down the wiring harness and zip tie in place. This is what I eventually did when I fixed my a-pillar rattle and had it off anyway. That DIY is here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?p=480175

1. I did not run the wire across the air bag in the a-pillar.
I think this is a bad idea and I've seen many people post that they did it. I ran it behind the airbag in order to cross the a-pillar at the top right where it meets the windshield.
I popped open the top of the a-pillar and put enough pressure on it until the top clip popped out to the security catch it has. This was enough room to do what I needed to do.
I shimmied a trim tool behind the airbag, between the car body and the airbag, and then put SLIGHT pressure on the airbag. I observed that I could easily fish the USB power cable up through and to the headliner where it meets the a-pillar. I believe this is a much better/safer solution than running across the airbag.



2. I bought a much better 12v plug for about the same price. Surprisingly, at RadioShack. The connections on it are far more robust and safe and it looks and feels like a legit product. It also has a rubber cap if you decide to uninstall the dash cam and want to leave the plug there. https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-12vdc-car-power-accessory-outlet


The 12v plug from Amazon outlined in the other DIY was absolute junk. I was appalled. I ordered 2 and both were defective, and almost fell completely apart on me when I was wiring them up. I don't think these are safe products and I will never put them in my cars.


3. I wired in to switched power at the fuse box using an ATO size Add-A-Circuit. I got that part here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JU4K76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The cam will power on when I put the car into accessory mode or start it. For dash cams that have parking mode this won't work. I chose not to utilize parking mode at this time. I have outlined how to switch the fuse to always-on power in the image in the event you need that.



4. Grounding: Ground to the large bolt visible from the side panel, I believe it was 14mm.
Link to Scosche dual USB charger. https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-USBC...484626998&sr=8-3&keywords=scosche+car+charger
Anker and Aukey also make well reviewed, and great, thoroughly tested products. I used this Scosche one because its a top rated product and was also thoroughly reviewed on The Wirecutter, who found it to be one of the best they tested.

 
Last edited:

ReadTheBook

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Bay Area Smoke Hell
Car(s)
2017 Sport, 2019 AT
Since my wife's accident Ive been piecing together a system for her. I actually went with this one 12v adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y?ref_=ams_ad_dp_asin_3&th=1
I see. That has an identical looking receptacle that the one I purchased from Amazon did. Hopefully yours is actually soldered properly inside.
I'm just leery of the quality of anything that looks like that at this point given my experience and given that for $8+tax I can go to RadioShack and buy one that is built far better to strap inside my dash board.
 

desol8tor

New member
Location
CA
I'm about to embark on this install later this weekend (car is in the body shop due to neighbor hitting me, another story for another day), but I went with the NOCO 12V adapter found here. It's made for boats and stuff so it feels really sturdy. Just wanted to put a better Amazon Prime option.
 

DV52

Go Kart Champion
Location
Australia
readthebook: Hi - I had to come and take a look at your write-up - well done, looks very professional.

Just one question - why use the extra 12volt plug at all? Clearly your soldering skills are sufficient to make a good join - so why not disassemble the USB charger and discard the bulky housing entirely. Do the same to the USB ends on both the charger and the camera.

Solder the two 5v wires from the camera cable to a suitable place on the USB board and solder two wires on the 12v side of the charger. Run these 2 x wires from the 12v & earth on the USB board directly to your "piggy-back" fuse and earth.

Encase the guts of the USB charger with a piece of heat-shrink tubing and you are left with a much smaller (neater?) package to affix to the metal brace in your last picture (I think?)

You can keep the USB ends if you want the facility to "un-plug" the camera at a later time, but I don't see the need for the bulk/expense of the 2nd 12V car plug - or am I missing something?

Don
 

ReadTheBook

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Bay Area Smoke Hell
Car(s)
2017 Sport, 2019 AT
readthebook: Hi - I had to come and take a look at your write-up - well done, looks very professional.

Just one question - why use the extra 12volt plug at all? Clearly your soldering skills are sufficient to make a good join - so why not disassemble the USB charger and discard the bulky housing entirely. Do the same to the USB ends on both the charger and the camera.

Solder the two 5v wires from the camera cable to a suitable place on the USB board and solder two wires on the 12v side of the charger. Run these 2 x wires from the 12v & earth on the USB board directly to your "piggy-back" fuse and earth.

Encase the guts of the USB charger with a piece of heat-shrink tubing and you are left with a much smaller (neater?) package to affix to the metal brace in your last picture (I think?)

You can keep the USB ends if you want the facility to "un-plug" the camera at a later time, but I don't see the need for the bulk/expense of the 2nd 12V car plug - or am I missing something?

Don
Don, I believe you're completely correct. I could do that, and given that, this could be a few dollars cheaper.

I actually haven't soldiered anything in this install. At this point, it's a matter of having time to redo it in that manner (I have an 8 month old boy). There is an added bonus of having the second USB port there, hidden, if I ever wanted to hardwire another USB-Based device, it's simply a "just plug it in" operation.

In all, I'm just happy to have it working and not causing a KESSY error anymore :)
 

BlueHen

Go Kart Champion
Location
Delmarva
Updated link. Not sure WTF dropbox pulled, but I didn't move or rename the file within my dropbox.
THANKS! I'm going to need to tap three locations to hard wire a 2-channel dash cam and my radar detector. This will be a big help. I appreciate it. Why coukdn't VW put this in the NA owner's manual?
 

desol8tor

New member
Location
CA
Followup - got my car back from the body shop, so I proceeded with this install. Almost identical process (even same dashcam). Great guide.

I struggled with fishing the wire behind the airbag - I was peeking through the A-Pillar for quite some time. I realized the best way to find the proper path is to pry the corner of the A-Pillar AND the headboard (closest to the door/body) simultaneously and look up into that opening. You should see some light shining through where there is a tiny gap between the windshield and the headboard. That is the path you need to fish the wire through. Don't forget to put the wire behind the airbag at this point as well.

Hope that tip helps!
 

bogchop

New member
Location
Australia
Hi all - I've recently grabbed two of the Viofo hardwire kits for my A119S cameras, and have already mounted the front camera up quite easily.

Problem is, the camera at the back of my GTi... the cable on the hardwire kit isn't long enough! How do I go about extending the mini USB (5 pin) cable to be able to reach? I'm essentially running it from the fuse box, up the A-pillar, along the side of the trim and to the back of the boot, as seen using this guide:

https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/volkswagen/mk7-golf/mk7-golf-dash-cam-install/

I'm not in favour of extending a cable like that, which carries power as I'm certain if I pickup a $2 cheapo cable from eBay that it wont be rated properly for power handling.
What are my options? Are there hardwire kits out there with 2/3/4m cable lengths?

Cheers.
 

nate704

Go Kart Champion
Location
Virginia
Hi all - I've recently grabbed two of the Viofo hardwire kits for my A119S cameras, and have already mounted the front camera up quite easily.

Problem is, the camera at the back of my GTi... the cable on the hardwire kit isn't long enough! How do I go about extending the mini USB (5 pin) cable to be able to reach? I'm essentially running it from the fuse box, up the A-pillar, along the side of the trim and to the back of the boot, as seen using this guide:

https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/volkswagen/mk7-golf/mk7-golf-dash-cam-install/

I'm not in favour of extending a cable like that, which carries power as I'm certain if I pickup a $2 cheapo cable from eBay that it wont be rated properly for power handling.
What are my options? Are there hardwire kits out there with 2/3/4m cable lengths?

Cheers.
You do not need to buy anything. If you cut your existing hardwire USB cable, you can see either two or four wires inside.
If it has only two, those are your positive and negative. If you have four cables, they are red, green, white, and black. Green and white wires are for the data, so just use the red and black wire for the positive and negative respectively.
Just buy any 16gage wires and extend them to fit your required length.
 

Xdpker

Ready to race!
Location
USA

Just to confirm, in order to attach the grounding wire, I have to unscrew this bolt and screw it back in with an eyelet ground wire correct?
 
Top