GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Anyone had to install these calipers with shims on the carrier bolts to center the caliper on the rotor? I'm installing mine on the recommended Zimmerman 345mm rotors on my GTI and the caliper is touching the rotor on the outside face without even torquing down the carrier bolts yet that would pull them closer into the rotor. Rotor screw is tightened up and I know it is centered as I installed a stud/nut kit at the same time.

I know other BBKs have shims for centering, I may just get some washers to make sure I don't have any clearance issues out of the gate. Everything else is sitting flush so I was kinda surprised that this is happening. If it matters, I'm using the calipers so the bleed valves face upwards as I see in the pictures in this thread.
No, you screwed something up. There might be some slight runout (that should be corrected) on used rotors but that sounds wrong.
 

bobivy1234

Go Kart Champion
Location
Greensboro, NC USA
Car(s)
2016 VW Golf GTI
No, you screwed something up. There might be some slight runout (that should be corrected) on used rotors but that sounds wrong.
Thanks I updated my first post and good now. I installed a Racingline stud/nut conversion at the same time and the rotor got caught on one so I hadn't pushed the rotor all the way onto the hub. Loosened the rotor screw and repositioned it and now everything is fine, panicked a bit but all is good.

For now I'm just using some Z26 street pads and appears to be 1mm on each side unswept with the 345mm Zimmermans. For track I got Raybestos ST-43s that I probably won't be able to use for a month or two, still need to bleed the crap out of these. Thanks folks for the quick replies.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Thanks I updated my first post and good now. I installed a Racingline stud/nut conversion at the same time and the rotor got caught on one so I hadn't pushed the rotor all the way onto the hub. Loosened the rotor screw and repositioned it and now everything is fine, panicked a bit but all is good.

For now I'm just using some Z26 street pads and appears to be 1mm on each side unswept with the 345mm Zimmermans. For track I got Raybestos ST-43s that I probably won't be able to use for a month or two, still need to bleed the crap out of these. Thanks folks for the quick replies.
Don't used RBF660, it needs to be bled frequently, like between run groups frequent. Stick to RBF600.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
?? News to me, been running 660 for two years with no issues. What is the problem with it?
I'm sure he'll just reply saying you must not go to the track enough to understand.

But for real, 660 just has a slightly lower wet boiling point than 600. Still better than a lot of other options on the market. Bleeding between run groups, lol.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
?? News to me, been running 660 for two years with no issues. What is the problem with it?

Here in swamp ass Florida, it seems that it's absorbing water. It's not just me, all the guys I track with here have had similar issues. I've moved back to 600 and no more issues.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
I'm sure he'll just reply saying you must not go to the track enough to understand.

But for real, 660 just has a slightly lower wet boiling point than 600. Still better than a lot of other options on the market. Bleeding between run groups, lol.

Keep your BS out of this thread.
 

Will_

Autocross Champion
Location
SF Bay Area
Car(s)
2017 GTI S DSG
Interesting. Well I’ve heard that brake fluids with higher boiling points tend to absorb more water so makes sense that in humid Florida that could be a big issue. I’m in California where it straight up hasn’t rained in six months so may have less of an issue here. I would run SRF but that fluid doesn’t seem to mesh well with our calipers, and I’ve heard RBF600 boils fairly quickly under track use, so that’s why I use 660. Will hope for continued no issues.

I’m at 13 track days since last June, all with these brakes & RBF660, so they’ve had a solid test.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Interesting. Well I’ve heard that brake fluids with higher boiling points tend to absorb more water so makes sense that in humid Florida that could be a big issue. I’m in California where it straight up hasn’t rained in six months so may have less of an issue here. I would run SRF but that fluid doesn’t seem to mesh well with our calipers, and I’ve heard RBF600 boils fairly quickly under track use, so that’s why I use 660. Will hope for continued no issues.

I’m at 13 track days since last June, all with these brakes & RBF660, so they’ve had a solid test.

Noticed you were in Norcal, so yeah, no 90% humidity issues. I grew up in SF, still have family out in the area, it's beautiful city. We used to skateboard down the hills, and hold onto the bumper of busses to pull us back up. Lucky I made it out of childhood.

Floriderp weather is not kind to tracked cars. Time trial over the weekend, my friends 19 Miata with 660 completely foot to the floor boiled it.

My buddy has 2 of the factory TCA Civics that he's been endurance racing, and the heat is killing transmissions left and right. He swapped back to 600 for similar issues with his brake. Same with a other buddies TT1 prepped C6 Z06 Corvette.
 
Last edited:

espo92

Ready to race!
Location
Orlando, Florida
Car(s)
2016 Audi A3 2.0T
Got my calipers back from powder coating. Hopefully I can get the install done (or do it myself) sometime soon.
 

Attachments

  • B35A7448-A780-45F3-A2DC-0F0AC65844E1.jpeg
    B35A7448-A780-45F3-A2DC-0F0AC65844E1.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 108

Acadia18

Autocross Champion
Location
The Greater Boston Metropolitan Area
Car(s)
2019 Golf R
Got my calipers back from powder coating. Hopefully I can get the install done (or do it myself) sometime soon.

If you have basic mechanical knowledge, and have done a basic pad & rotor brake job before, doing it yourself shouldn't be too hard at all. Just grab a power bleeder to bleed the piss out of them and go to town.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
If you have basic mechanical knowledge, and have done a basic pad & rotor brake job before, doing it yourself shouldn't be too hard at all. Just grab a power bleeder to bleed the piss out of them and go to town.

Yep, it's a pretty easy install.
 

espo92

Ready to race!
Location
Orlando, Florida
Car(s)
2016 Audi A3 2.0T
Gonna try it with a buddy this weekend, and go from there. Going from the stock 312mm brakes on an A3 to these is going to be a huge jump, plus being able to change the pads as I start doing more trackdays/autox events.
 

Acadia18

Autocross Champion
Location
The Greater Boston Metropolitan Area
Car(s)
2019 Golf R
Gonna try it with a buddy this weekend, and go from there. Going from the stock 312mm brakes on an A3 to these is going to be a huge jump, plus being able to change the pads as I start doing more trackdays/autox events.

Yep, same as a non-PP GTI. Don't expect a night and day difference in pedal feel, but they will look infinitely cooler, and hold up far better when you do those track/autox days.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
I have to say that my non-PP brakes on my 18 S held up to multiple drivers in Florida autocrossing. 4 at 1 event, 3 at most of the events, for an entire season. We had to spray tires between every run, but the brakes were strong and were never a limiting factor. That car is still nicknamed the German Bukkake car locally, because of how many of us would run it every event. The only issue we had was you had to wait an hour for the wheels to get cool enough to swap back my street set up and drive home and it melted center caps. The brakes were every bit as good as PP for autocross.

GS 26-8.jpg
 
Top