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Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

scrapin240

Drag Racing Champion
Location
IzzaGolf
Car(s)
Golf
I’ve done the SCCA National Series Tours and ProSolos since 2001 and I care a lot about be letter perfect to the rules. I’ve won plenty of events, but I’ve only had a few top 5’s at Nationals. I have a legitimate shot at winning a National Championship in this car in STH for 2021. Thus, undetectable or not, I won’t do it. I got up at 4 am, cleaned up the garage wreck and rebled the system using the VW order. Turns out the passenger rear had a HUGE air bubble. After that, the brakes felt like stock, which was great. I do think I want a slightly more aggressive pad than the StopTech Sports, but they were pretty solid. Thanks for all the help. - AB

Street and Street Touring don't allow changes to ABS or stability control, beyond pulling the fuse or using what the fractory gave you. It's kind of stupid, but it is what it is. Street Touring does allow calipers and brake lines to be changed, but it would be interesting to hear SEB thoughts on RPV.
So does that mean @B1mmer needs to have traction on sport on a GTI? That would surely be a losing vehicle, as GTIs don't have a fully defeatable traction control unless you code it.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Because SCCA isn't where you win by being the best driver, but by being the best at pedantically nitpicking your competitor's adherence to an arcane ruleset that changes regularly.
I'm going to call BS. Yes the rules are ridiculous, but I'm a fast local driver, usually pretty well prepped car. With a decent car, I'll pax top 5 to 10. Last 2 years a professional TCA driver has been codriving with me. He an easy 1 to 2 seconds faster on a 60 second course, same car. I've gotten with .5 sec a few times, when the car was perfectly sorted, but I picked to a nasty push due to a miscommunication with the alignment shop, he was still top 5 pax, I was in the 20/100 range.

Driver makes a massive difference. Aliens can jump on almost any car and still run a top 5 pax time.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
So does that mean @B1mmer needs to have traction on sport on a GTI? That would surely be a losing vehicle, as GTIs don't have a fully defeatable traction control unless you code it.
It would, but I disagree that you can't win. He can run in dynamic, which if you're more sideways that dynamic allows, you're slow anyway.

Another thing I noticed driving with a professional as my co-driver is that he was not only faster, the car intervened he's because he's smoother at all inputs.

I know we all like to think it's the cars, but I've ridden with him in my own car and though, wtf, how is he so much faster.
 

scrapin240

Drag Racing Champion
Location
IzzaGolf
Car(s)
Golf
It would, but I disagree that you can't win. He can run in dynamic, which if you're more sideways that dynamic allows, you're slow anyway.

Another thing I noticed driving with a professional as my co-driver is that he was not only faster, the car intervened he's because he's smoother at all inputs.

I know we all like to think it's the cars, but I've ridden with him in my own car and though, wtf, how is he so much faster.
but then you defeat the rotation if you opt for a big rear sway bar. And yes, driver makes a massive massive difference, but having the TC totally defeated definitely helps lap times, at least on track.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
but then you defeat the rotation if you opt for a big rear sway bar. And yes, driver makes a massive massive difference, but having the TC totally defeated definitely helps lap times, at least on track.
In GS, you go big rear bar, a little toe out up front, -1.8 camber rear, them use toe to fine tune rotation.

A mild ST build is proving more challenging to this point, but I'm stubborn. I'll get there. Sadly, to this point my GS setup was much better. I just helped a buddy set up his wife's GTI for GS, and last event I was 2 seconds faster in her GS prepped car than mine. To be fair, my rear subframe shifted and the alignment shop confused neg and pos toe, but a well done GS car is stupid fast.
 
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emichel6888

Go Kart Champion
Location
TX
To say I’m disappointed is an understatement. I finally got the calipers back from the powder coater again with a great color. I got everything mounted last night. I did the rear rotors and pads this afternoon, bled the system twice and then went out to bed in the pads. Damn if I don’t have a super long travel and low pedal. And it’s not very progressive. It goes from barely any brake to medium braking to ABS. Not great at all. I had bled them twice, did the 2# RPV’s in line as well as the red grease on the seals and pistons upon reassembly. I’m pretty frustrated. They look great and the 3 different 17x9’s I run for autocross cleared (barely with one set) without a spacer. All of the wheels are 35 offset: TSW Bathurst, Rota Grid and Advanti Storm S1.
Here is picture of these mediocre brakes on my TT:


I am highly considering 4# RPV’s as a test. I know it cause rear brake drag for emichel6888, so I’m hoping my TT might be different. - AB
I apparently missed this, so without changing the settings does the brake pedal drop and go soft when you start the engine? I am curious because turning off the brake booster settings was one of the first things I did, and I have never tried it with them on since making these other changes. I don't do autocross and never imagined there would be a rule about turning off the booster settings. It is similar to pulling the ABS fuse IMO (which is allowed?), so perhaps you could make that argument? I guess it depends on the intent of these rules, but in this case it seems like a silly rule given that they allow different calipers, pads, and lines. Those are some major changes, but this is where they draw the line, really?

I do recall a gentlemen on here with the ST40 calipers mentioning he was really happy with his brake pedal "after changing those booster settings" so it is very likely all three adjustments (lube, RPV, and booster settings) need to be done to get the ideal pedal response.

The problem with the brakes on this car is they are so heavily over boosted. All three of these adjustments reduce brake boosting, and they each help to a certain degree. It seems some have done 2 out of 3 and that gets you back to stock feel, but it takes all three working together to get the maximum effect. That and of course make sure there is no air in your system.:)

I did the settings and RPV's and that also got me to what I would describe as stock feel, it wasn't until I went back and lubed the seals that I noticed a big difference. Others have done the lube and settings and also describe a stock like feel, now you have done the lube and RPV but not the settings and again report that it feels stock so...

Perhaps just try the settings so you can see what I am talking about. It makes a big difference and I would think even more so for autocross with so many fast transitions where consistency and control can make a big difference.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Yeah, the RPV’s I’ll need to remove for National competition until my letter to request they’re added is approved.

GTIFan99, you were able to achieve a stock like feel and travel without them? Mine are mounted inline at end of the hardline like emichel6888 did. - AB
I have a stock feel with RRG and OBD11 tweaks. Slightly worse with out OBD11 tweaks.
 

B1mmer

Ready to race!
Location
Matthews, NC
I have a stock feel with RRG and OBD11 tweaks. Slightly worse with out OBD11 tweaks.
So does that mean @B1mmer needs to have traction on sport on a GTI? That would surely be a losing vehicle, as GTIs don't have a fully defeatable traction control unless you code it.
While I did own a 2019 Rabbit Edition for about 6 months before being bought back by VW, this is a ‘16 Audi TT, where traction control/stability control has a huge range when “disabled” compared to the GTI. Besides, I have all of the traction I need, even on 245’s :)

With that said, I’m pulling the RPV’s this weekend and I’m going to bleed the heck out of the brakes again. I bought some more aggressive Ferodo DS2500’s and will pair them with the Stoptech Sports in the rear. The Stoptech Sports on the front modulate well, but don’t have enough initial bite for my liking. If anyone wants a great deal on a set of Stoptech Sports for these calipers with about 40 miles and a single autocross, let me know. - AB
 

scrapin240

Drag Racing Champion
Location
IzzaGolf
Car(s)
Golf
i am reinstalling my stock brakes, and saw my stock pads (which I am not using), but was like whoa, that's interesting with 263 miles on it

51013666602_d2326a291b_c.jpg
 

AceHammer

Go Kart Champion
Location
NY USA
Car(s)
2015 A3
I'd say a defect then, that or they were damaged during install. The pad material is pretty soft/weak compared to an aggressive pad
 

bfury5

Autocross Champion
Location
CT
Street and Street Touring don't allow changes to ABS or stability control, beyond pulling the fuse or using what the fractory gave you. It's kind of stupid, but it is what it is. Street Touring does allow calipers and brake lines to be changed, but it would be interesting to hear SEB thoughts on RPV.
I'm pretty sure street touring gives you additional methods of disabling traction control electronically, unlike street class where it would require a fuse pull.

Edit:

14.6.D
Original equipment ABS braking systems may be electrically disabled
but may not be removed or altered in any other way.

14.10.B
Original equipment traction control systems may be electrically disabled, but not removed or altered in any other way

"Electronically disabled", at least for traction control, begs the question of how far you can go with VCDS tweaks
 
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