The Macan template included on the first page of this thread is wrong (from what I’ve found during my research). It’s way too big and does not represent the actual size of the caliper. But, would you be able to tell me what you’re caliper clearance is at the largest gap?
Understandable. I shared the template here a few posts back. Everyone is welcome to use it!
They are 18x8.5x45. Tightest clearance is a hair under 1/8th inch (I don’t own anything more precise) and 1/2” at the bigger gap of the spokes. There’s 1.5” between caliper and the barrel. I read somewhere here that the prodigy calipers are a copy of the boxster? Not sure how that helps your measurements. Maybe you could print out prodigy and macan templates? I bought my wheels from another mk7 guy who had just upgraded from the cr4 to the 6 piston version and these wheels wouldn’t fit without a spacer. He ended up on some forged Rays.
This being my first brake swap I’ve done myself I babied the car for the first 300 miles but wasn’t overly impressed at first. I didn’t have time to bleed the rear lines and figured I’d get to it after the pads and rotors were broken in. Rebled everything in the order that blade suggested including the rears this time and it made a huge difference. A hard day in the canyons had no brake fade and the weight savings made the suspension feel a little friendlier. The pads don’t quite sweep the whole rotor which irks me a little bit it’s still much more than my 288s. I have no idea what pads it takes as I’m using the ones provided. I can send you the same write up Blade sent me. Has the small variations for golf vs gti. Brake bleeding order. Etc. I’m about to purchase an obd11 to try the brake settings I’ve read about and see how that changes things.
.Awesome! Thank you so much for that info. It helps huge as now I can compare the prodigy and Macan template to get an idea of clearance. I wish these wheels were easier to get, since they are a Canadian company and aren’t using an US vendors (as I have found) yet. But, thank you for your info man, really appreciate it!
I also did the PP rears, but I did them at the same time I upgraded the front to Macan, so I can’t comment on the brakes with the non PP rears. You gotta do the RPV and red grease man, these brakes feel amazing! I just followed @emichel6888 write up to a t and I’m very happy with it.I put the Macan calipers on my TDI, first with stock rears and without bleeding the rears. Wasn't confidence inspiring, haha. Then switched to PP rears and bled everything... much better but not great. Haven't done the coding tweaks yet.
I'm going to do those but also going to do @emichel6888's residual pressure valves. I got excited when my calipers got back from paint and didn't do the red rubber grease, even though it was right there in the garage
I'm concerned about my laziness with properly doing the grease. My brakes are already installed. From looking in the thread it looks like it's best to pull the pistons all the way out which would mean taking the brakes off and making a mess, which I have no interest in, haha.
That's exactly what I did. I pulled the caliper off, removed dust seals, put pads in the caliper and had wife give a little push of the pedal for me, which exposed more of the pistons, greased, pushed pistons back in, replaced boots. Then did order side the same. No way I was pulling the calipers all the way back off.
By pulled the caliper you off you just mean unbolted from the knuckle right? Dust seals off, pads in (or a wooden block, whatever) so the pistons don't push all the way out... grease them up. Seals back on, bolt them back up? The line is plenty long enough to rest on a foam mat on the ground if you pull it off the little "keeper" on the knuckle. That means little to no brake fluid mess then, hopefully?
Yep, that's exactly what I did.
I'm going to try the @GTIfan99 method. I'm not even unhappy with the brakes now, with no grease, RPV's or VCDS tweaks. If I do the tweaks and things get better I may not do anything else, haha.
