Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

[GTIfan99]

Guys, have anyone tried these Macan Brembo calipers with 18-inch belvedere rims from clubsport (18 7.5J et 49)? Or with pretorias from passat (et44)?

We haven't but you're looking at 10 to 12mm spacers just based on offset.

 

[TheBlondeFella]

Slightly OT, but anybody know if the TTS brakes are "high retraction" brakes as well, or do they perform as desired right off the bat?

Yes the TTS work perfectly. They're even better after doing just one of the OBD11 mods too!

 

[AceHammer]

Hey currently looking for a new set of wheels to go with this upgrade, has anyone tried the APR 18x8.5 e45 wheels.
Also by chance does anyone know what size spacer I would need for 17in stock A3 wheels (Currently using them as my winter setup)

 

[Will_]

Hey currently looking for a new set of wheels to go with this upgrade, has anyone tried the APR 18x8.5 e45 wheels.
Also by chance does anyone know what size spacer I would need for 17in stock A3 wheels (Currently using them as my winter setup)

The APR wheels clear.

 

[nono0044]

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Which offset did you buy again? ET35 or ET42?

 

[WFox93]

Did you do the adaptions, red rubber grease and high pressure bleed?

Once I did that, pedal feel was back to stock.

I did the adaptations and bled at 15PSI on my pressure bleeder if memory serves me. I may have missed it on the first post what's this about red rubber grease?

Just did this swap on my PP car, pedal is going to take some getting used to but I like it. To add to the wheel fitment, Motegi MR135's at 18x8.5 +45 do not clear the face. I needed a 7mm spacer to get roughly 3mm of clearance between the spokes and face of the caliper.

Quoting myself and adding some more details about what I chose. I did my rear brakes at the same time. I went with R1 Concepts Slotted rotors all the way around, sized for MK6 R in front and I chose Hawk HP5.0 pads front and rear. And Stainless lines from the folks mentioned in the first post. I also chose Motul RBF660

 

[Raguvian]

Which offset did you buy again? ET35 or ET42?

They are +42

 

[GTIfan99]

I did the adaptations and bled at 15PSI on my pressure bleeder if memory serves me. I may have missed it on the first post what's this about red rubber grease?

Quoting myself and adding some more details about what I chose. I did my rear brakes at the same time. I went with R1 Concepts Slotted rotors all the way around, sized for MK6 R in front and I chose Hawk HP5.0 pads front and rear. And Stainless lines from the folks mentioned in the first post. I also chose Motul RBF660

Use Castrol red rubber grease on the pistons. Reduces retraction.

 

[scrapin240]

does anyone have the size of the actual pistons?
diameter and length

EDIT: If someone can get that size for me, i have some information that may be a game changer from someone who's pretty much livelihood is brakes. no RPV or none of that business. It may solve the reason for the inconsistent brake pedal.

 

[jb2244]

This probably isn't going to help anybody but I can confirm fitment for TR Motorsports MT1 17x8 ET35. Barrels clear by approximately .250" at the closest point and the spokes clear by a mile. Sorry for the road salt/sand.

I can confirm that OZ Superturismo LM 18x8 ET48 will not clear without spacers. I didn't take any measurements but I'm guessing 5-8mm should do it. I will post again in the spring when I swap over to my summer wheels and tires.

Also, I am having a fitment issue with one of the custom lines I ordered from Techna-Fit. I believe this is due to the tolerances on the flare in the female fitting at the hardline side. The fitting nut has two flats and a key that clock the line to the bracket in the wheel well. There is only one keyway in the bracket so it can only be in one specific orientation. The fitting on the hardline side does not rotate, so basically you're limited to full turns of the fitting on the hardline side of the flex line. I noticed when installing the lines that quite a bit more thread on the hardline fitting was showing than with the OEM lines. It seemed like it needed another half turn or so for the flare to properly seat. Sure enough, when I went to bleed the brakes I had a leak at the fitting. I was able to resolve this for the time being by tightening an extra quarter turn and zip tying the line to the bracket but I am unable to use the retention clip. The other side seals when using the bracket, but based on feel I'm guessing it could be a little tighter as well. This is a real shit design. I don't understand why the fitting on the hardline would not be free to rotate, as this would negate the alignment issue altogether. That being said, the OEM lines seal properly when installed in the orientation that allows for use of the brackets and retention clips. I am awaiting a response from Techna-Fit and will update this post with the resolution.

 

[burgerkong]

does anyone have the size of the actual pistons?
diameter and length

EDIT: If someone can get that size for me, i have some information that may be a game changer from someone who's pretty much livelihood is brakes. no RPV or none of that business. It may solve the reason for the inconsistent brake pedal.

Should be 42mm for both pistons.

 

[scrapin240]

Should be 42mm for both pistons.

diameter....thanks for that confirmation.

what about length of piston? (it's probably 30 or 32 mm)

 

[burgerkong]

diameter....thanks for that confirmation.

what about length of piston? (it's probably 30 or 32 mm)

Courtesy of a post in @emichel6888 's thread.

 

[scrapin240]

So I was reaching out to Zeckhausen Racing to get the Ferodo DS3.12 for the OEM calipers, and told him that I was switching from Macan back to the OEM, and he asked if it was a race series issue or something else. Dave was super and has tons of information, and knows all things brakes.
He said that the master cylinder should be sufficient:

The stock MKVII caliper uses a single 60mm piston. That yields an effective piston area of 5655 mm^2. (multiply by two when the caliper is floating)

The 2015-17 Macon Base with 345mm front rotors uses calipers with four 42mm pistons, giving it an effective piston area of 5542 mm^2, or 98% of stock. That's close enough to be insignificant.

This should mean the brake torque output of your Porsche caliper upgrade would be 2% less than stock, but the stiffness of 4-piston fixed vs single-piston floater more than makes up the difference because of higher caliper efficiency converting hydraulic pressure into clamping force. The single piston caliper flexes way more, which wastes energy.

So I'm trying to understand why you had problems. Was 42mm the actual piston diameter of the Porsche calipers you had? Or something else? Was pedal travel longer, shorter, or the same as stock?

I told him about the issues that track users faced, such as initial brake pedal issues, and he said

That's a pad knockback issue. As you go through turns or hit the kerbing the front wheel bearings are deflecting. This deflection causes the rotor to deflect by the same angular amount. But when you are all the way to the outer edge of the rotor, that angular deflection turns into some significant axial deflection, which pushes the pads away from the rotors. The next application of the brake pedal has to close this gap, which is why you experience initial pedal travel without any braking.

If you were to gently tap the pedal with your left foot, just prior to when you actually need to hit the brakes, then you would find the pedal rock hard when you needed it. Alternatively, you could install StopTech pistons and anti-knockback springs in the Porsche calipers and eliminate the problem. The reason for the StopTech pistons is that they have a machined feature on the bottom that engages with the spring.

The solution looks like this.

He then suggested

the shortest pistons we have that support both dust boots AND knockback springs are 29.5mm. However, you could have a machine shop mill the bottoms of the OEM pistons for you. This is what it would look like:

So, the pistons that work have the shortest length of 29.5mm, so if that diagram is correct, the stock ones are too short. If someone can confirm the measurements that would be great. Otherwise I will be going back to stock in the upcoming weeks, and will try then to measure. His gut feeling is that they are 30mm, but we would need to get an actual measurement to know.

If the piston length is shorter than 29.5 and is machined, the springs to use are 8 of these:
https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=22044

This is the first time someone with some braking knowledge even tried to explain these issues. Sounds very interesting and would love to see if it solves the problem. Edit: There is a warning on the page that it can accelerate wear on pads, so that is something else to be aware of. This depends on the spring rate used. Dave said the .4in should not drag the brakes in a daily, and .6in could be used in a track car with severe knockback and should not drag the brakes in either case.

I would reach out to Dave and Zeckhausen racing for any braking needs/information in the future.

 

[GTIfan99]

My car is a street car, so definite no go. I'll just tap brake like I did with my STI.