For some reason it's harder to get all the air out of the system with these calipers. Bleed the system LF, RF, LR, RR, then do multiple ABS stops. Give it a day or two, then do a 30 psi bleed LF, RF, LR, RR. If you bleed correctly, they are rock solid. If you aren't going to use Castrol Red Rubber grease on the pistons/seals, don't even bother using these calipers. No one wants to hear you complain about a soft pedal when you were given the answer in the first paragraph or the first post in the thread.
This is information that non0044,
yirayira and I have put together over the last few months. We are not responsible for you changing your car from factory, and if you aren't knowledgeable about cars or braking systems, you might be better off keeping your cars OEM brakes.
Applications
The Macan calipers are direct fit on PP, R, A3 and S3 with the info below. They also are direct fit on new A4 and A5, but you'll need to figure out brake lines. The applications listed below use same pads, RS3 have the slot for R owners to use brake wear sensor. They also fit the regular MK7 and non-PP GTI, but will require 345mm rotors. There's no bracket required, these bolt straight to the knuckle. You can not use Macan rotors. Everything is spelled out in detail below.
Calipers
Part number for calipers. Sunset Porsche sells them for $242 each. Available widely at almost any dealer for $250-ish.
If you disassemble the calipers to paint or powder coat, make sure the black pistons are put back in the inner half of the calipers, they are designed to withstand more heat. Installing the pistons incorrectly will cause premature wear of the pistons.
95B-615-123-F
95B-615-124-F
Using Castrol Red Rubber Grease on the piston seals reduces retraction and gives a better feel.
Brake Pads
Pagid 2487 is the backing plate for the Macan pads and these are all the Pagid pads that use the same plate and thickness of pad. All of the below vehicles use the exact same pad as the Macan, regardless of rotor size.
Other manufacturers refer to this backing plate as 1001.
REF NO. THICKNESS MAKE MODEL YEAR FRONT
2487 15.4 mm Aston Martin DB 9 04 → X, 355mm
2487 15.4 mm Aston Martin Vantage V8 GT4 ProDrive [race car] 12 → X, no idea, likely 370mm.
2487 15.4 mm Audi TT RS 2.5 Quattro 09 → X, 370mm
2487 15.4 mm Cadillac CTS-V (4 piston front caliper) 03 → 09 X, 355mm
2487 15.4 mm Chevrolet Corvette Brembo non ceramic 09 → X, 380mm
2487 15.4 mm Chevrolet Camaro SS non-1LE 09 → X, 345mm x 30mm
2487 15.4 mm Ford GT 04 → 06 X X, 355mm
2487 15.4 mm Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 07 → X, 355
2487 15.4 mm Ford Mustang Boss 302 12 → X, 355mm
2487 15.4 mm Honda (Acura) Acura TL 04 → X, 330mm
2487 15.4 mm Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8 track 10 → X, 340mm
2487 15.4 mm Mitsubishi Lancer Evo V - Evo IX 98 → 06 X, 330mm
2487 15.4 mm Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X 07 → X, 350mm
2487 15.4 mm Subaru STI 03 → X, 330mm
2487 15.4 mm Volvo S60 Turbo R Brembo brakes 03 → X, 305mm
2487 15.4 mm Volvo V70 R 2.5T Brembo brakes 03 → X, 305mm
2487 15.4 mm Audi A3 RS3 Quattro 11 → X, 370mm
2487 15.4 mm Dodge Viper SRT TA (time attack) 14 → X X, 355mm as far as I can find.
For pads I used Z26. They work well for street and autocross. I also tried the Powerstop track pad, due to price and good reviews in the Corvette and Lotus forums. After a track day and autocross on the Track Day pads, I just can't recommend them. Track pads are always going to be dusty, but these are insane. They also put on a spark show in heavy breaking zones. Not particularly good bite either
Power Stop Z26-1001 $79
Power Stop PST-1001 $120
Use the pins that come with the calipers. The PS pins are too short.
For those with a wear sensor that want to retain the sensor, below is a good street pad confirmed to fit.
Centric 105-16630
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ceb-105-16630
Brake Lines
For brake lines, email
Chris@techna-fit.com and ask for the below. They were $50 + $9 shipping handling and he can do SS if you request. You can also use stock Macan lines but they're more expensive new and you have to ziptie them, so why? They can make them in SS.
Need 24" custom brake lines.
Hard line side 2016 Audi S3.
Needs the fitting to secure line to the knuckle.
Caliper side 2014 Audi S4.
Additionally, I'd like to thank emichel6888 for his work on getting a firm pedal without OBD11 coding. His project with residual pressure valves is below.
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...t-pedal-with-residual-pressure-valves.376654/
If you want to use the stock Macan brake lines, this is the part number.
95B-611-701-E
Wheel fitment
17" and 18" barrels pretty easily clear the calipers, it's all going to be down to spoke design. The only wheels I know for sure that fit are listed below. I'll add to the list as I verify.
18x8.5 +45 Neuspeed RSe10
18 x 7.5 +51 factory Pretorias DO
NOT FIT without 15mm spacer. I would never run that much spacer. YMMV.
17x8 +45mm Neuspeed RSE05 - fit perfectly without spacers or hub rings
17 x 7.5 +45 Konig Runlites fit with 10mm spacer.
17x7.5" +48mm RPF1 - do
NOT fit (5mm is required to clear the face. 15mm spacers did not clear the barrel. Likely over 20mm required)
17x7.5" +42mm Sport Edition P4 - 12mm spacers required to clear face
17 x 8.5 +45 RSe16 fits no spacers.
18x9 ET45 Advan GT
Template for testing fitment with Macan calipers.
http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b...cdn.com/Q5_B8_BBK_Template.pdf
Caliper Rebuild Kit
Centric Parts
Part Number: 143.62059
High temp versions
https://racingbrake.com/db-45ht
Stock replacements.
https://autobrakesolutions.com/pages/product-result?rq=yr_2016~mk_porsche~md_macan~ix_base~lh_w-4-piston-front-calipers~in_front
Bleeder screws
https://autobrakesolutions.com/prod...ws-10-pack-bk9910?_pos=1&_sid=00dbce41d&_ss=r
Brake ducting
I've removed the heat shields and used Porsche GT3/2 brake ducts for a couple of years. They keep breaking after contacting the ground. I've since gone to RS3 ducts and I'd stick to the RS3 deflectors.
Rotors
M6 R/R32/CC 345mm x 30mm rotors fit perfectly, but you can stil use your 340mm x 30mm without issue. I test fitted rotors off a friends mk6 R and it's perfect. Less than .5 above and 3mm below the pad not being swept by pad.
VCDS/OBDeleven optimizations
I think I figured out why the brakes are so weird feeling. Even after I got them to firm up, they never really felt like I'm used to in my old STI or 911. I bought OBD11 to make some changes for track and had an ah ha moment.
The last change to make was for hydraulic brake assist, but I couldn't get it to work in OBD11 because I didn't have the correct security code. Took a couple of days to find it, but in the meantime, I drove around with the other changes and brakes felt the same. I finally found the code and deactivated Hydraulic brake assistance in the 03 module and they brakes actually work like a normal car now. Holy cow, night and day difference.
Here are some of the changes, but hydraulic brake assist is the only one your notice in everyday driving.
03 braking module security code 25757 worked for straight ahead brake stabilization. Turned it off and it'll allow trail braking into a corner without the abs fighting you.
03 braking module security code11966 worked for hydraulic brake assist. Removes the computer controlled brake boost that smooths out your braking and boosts braking pressure in panic stops. Gives you 100% control of brake pressure. Pedal felt amazing after turning off.
03 abs module Brake booster security code 25001 or 25004. Factory setting 4, most use 2, I like 3. Edit, finally set this to 2. Feels much better.
Impressions
They did great on track, with the car braking from 148 mph into turn 1 and 135 mph into the bus stop at Daytona. So much easier to modulate and they felt amazing. PP were always grabby and inconsistent. I'm still playing around with pads, not a fan of power stop track day pads, they threw massive spark showers in every braking zone, were hard on the rotors, and turned my white car black.
Enjoy.