Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

[Klrider44]

As someone said, it's for wear. It makes noise when pads are worn.

Don't just wait for the squeal though. Periodically look at pad material, as pads can wear unevenly.

You know I realized what it was shortly after I posted, and I put both pads with the sequel tab on one side so there is that also haha

 

[krs]

You know I realized what it was shortly after I posted, and I put both pads with the sequel tab on one side so there is that also haha

Learning moments happen.

 

[Maiden69]

Can I run a helicoil? Couple videos online where they use it. Not sure if it will hold fluid though.

Yes, a helicoil just fix the threads, the seal is done by the tube end against the caliper. Now the hard thing would be to drill and tap for a helicoil without messing up the area where the seals is created. I would take it to a machine shop and inquire there.

 

[Klrider44]

So I got the calipers on with neuspeed two piece rotors and hawk pads. Bled everything at 30psi. Pedal does definitely feel lower. Haven’t stood on them yet, just gonna get some easy miles on everything first. Might bleed them again, idk we will see. Stupid question: Can you bleed just the front since they are the first in sequence? Or do you have to re bleed the rears as well.

 

[scrllock]

always bleed all corners.

 

[GTIfan99]

So I got the calipers on with neuspeed two piece rotors and hawk pads. Bled everything at 30psi. Pedal does definitely feel lower. Haven’t stood on them yet, just gonna get some easy miles on everything first. Might bleed them again, idk we will see. Stupid question: Can you bleed just the front since they are the first in sequence? Or do you have to re bleed the rears as well.

Bleed all 4. Always.

 

[PatMc]

Can I run a helicoil? Couple videos online where they use it. Not sure if it will hold fluid though.

Be careful fixing this....I would recommend NOT doing it with a hand drill...it needs to be fixtured in a mill or at least drill press. The threads need to remain concentric and aligned with the seat at the bottom of the hole, or it will leak. Sometimes you'll get lucky by hand, more often than not you won't.

When I do repairs like this, and I do quite a few, I try to pick up off what's left of the hole, the actual port below the hole, or if the other hole is at the same angle..that....I'll thread a tap into that, grab the tap with my mill chuck, and then clamp the caliper down...that keeps the appropriate alignment. When drilling, creep up on the depth, keeping the quill stop short and advancing it about .020" at a time until I just touch off the bottom of the hole to re-establish the seat dead center with the hole I just drilled. Then in the same fixturing, I cut the threads and install the insert (I prefer time serts over heli-coils). Gotta use a pretty short insert for blind holes since the install tool needs to come out the other end a few threads to lock it in, but since the insert is steel rather than aluminum, and we're biting on larger threads in the aluminum, it holds torque and works just fine as a permanent repair that will never fail or come out. I've never had a leak doing it this way. Lots of leaks doing it the other way.

 

[mattjewell]

I see these will not work with 17x7.5 + 48 RPF1’s, but will they work with 18x9 +35?

 

[DSC808]

The way the barrel is staggered and the spokes are tapered. 7.5 width definitely not.
As the barrel moves outward it tapers for weight reduction. Theres a video somewhere describing how it’s made.

 

[Deanjet]

So tired of swapping pads and the crazy bleeding problems with these calipers. I’m going to Throw some EBC PR-1 (DP81210RP1) pads on and see if I can live with them on the street. The EBC Blues were fine on both the street and track, except for being worn out after only 2 track days. Never heard them squeal once on the street.

 

[suffeks]

FCP1334G/FRP3067G, depending on how thick you want (1334 is thicker than the pagid shape listed in OP, 3067 is thinner).

RPVs are one band-aid, you could also fit a small anti-knockback spring, which would also exacerbate pad drag.

ok went for the FCP1334G. got about 500 miles and can you believe it 0 squeal, not once, doesnt matter cold, hot, dry, wet. there is a slight better braking when braking 2nd time, even with the gold RPV. maybe i will try bleeding better later. but so far so good, once they slightly warm up they grip like a mofo haha

let them scrape away brake deposits never again brake shudder

 

[GTIfan99]

If you're looking at this upgrade right now, don't. APR's 350mm setup is on sale right now.

https://www.goapr.com/products/clearance_parts/parts/BRK00002?mibextid=Zxz2cZ

 

[GTIfan99]

So tired of swapping pads and the crazy bleeding problems with these calipers. I’m going to Throw some EBC PR-1 (DP81210RP1) pads on and see if I can live with them on the street. The EBC Blues were fine on both the street and track, except for being worn out after only 2 track days. Never heard them squeal once on the street.

I found your problem.

 

[carmenjeff]

If you're looking at this upgrade right now, don't. APR's 350mm setup is on sale right now.

https://www.goapr.com/products/clearance_parts/parts/BRK00002?mibextid=Zxz2cZ

Good luck finding replacement rotors, APR is discontinuing this product.

 

[GTIfan99]

Good luck finding replacement rotors, APR is discontinuing this product.

I can't imagine they're discontinuing the replacement rings too.