That's not the point though. Many motorsports teams use it to reduce piston retraction, it holds up well, and a member here tested and it reduced retraction by 50% on these calipers.
Unless you can tell me the other grease does the same, being easy to clean up is pretty irrelevant.
Off topic about grease but found some lifetime warranty pads for these calipers. Hawk DTC-60. Excited to try them out at trackday/time attack next weekend. Is it recommended to run SS lines and/or upgraded pads in the rear or depends on track and whats needed from the brakes? I was thinking about using Ferodo DS2500 in rear. Thanks GTIfan99 for posting up brake pad info. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-brake-pad-set-hawk-hb453g-585
Off topic about grease but found some lifetime warranty pads for these calipers. Hawk DT-60's. Excited to try them out at trackday/time attack next weekend. Is it recommended to run SS lines and/or upgraded pads in the rear or depends on track and whats needed from the brakes? I was thinking about using Ferodo DS2500 in rear. Thanks GTIfan99 for posting up brake pad info. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-brake-pad-set-hawk-hb453g-585
Eh the rubber lines these days have come a long way and are fine. Stainless are better for track cars but you have to replace them every year or two.
Dt60's work well, but they eat your rotors so keep an eye on that. Carbotech pads are the way, they're expensive but worth it for better performance and they don't chew the rotors up. I use the xp12 compound for the front (bbk) and xp10 for the rears.
That's not the point though. Many motorsports teams use it to reduce piston retraction, it holds up well, and a member here tested and it reduced retraction by 50% on these calipers.
Unless you can tell me the other grease does the same, being easy to clean up is pretty irrelevant.
No you don't absolutely need upgraded pads, and I didn't think they made much difference, but I was wrong. Car understeered less under braking with better rear pads.
Off topic about grease but found some lifetime warranty pads for these calipers. Hawk DTC-60. Excited to try them out at trackday/time attack next weekend. Is it recommended to run SS lines and/or upgraded pads in the rear or depends on track and whats needed from the brakes? I was thinking about using Ferodo DS2500 in rear. Thanks GTIfan99 for posting up brake pad info. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-brake-pad-set-hawk-hb453g-585
Macan Calipers W/OEM lines + Red Rubber Grease
345mm zimmerman blank rotors
Ferodo DS2500 *no longer using these*
RS3 Ducts
Neuspeed titanium shims
Permatex Ceramic Extreme lube on pad backing, pins and clips
After a couple rounds of bleeding the brakes felt good. They are more than anyone could need on the street. The pedal was nice and high and stopping was noticeably improved. On the track, the pedal was high but I didn't like the modulation as much (vague pedal feel when hard braking which caused traction light in sport mode). I'm running OBD11 mods with booster set to 1. I decided to add the EBC Master cylinder brace and try PFC 08 pads (more endurance based). The pedal is even more instantaneous than before. If RRG is an 8, adding the MCB makes it a 9. I think adding RPV's would make them too touchy and possibly induce drag at this point. I've done about 6 events and will most likely keep this setup for next year (will replace oem seals with high temp version). The rears have Ferodo DS2500's. Overall this is a great budget brake setup!
Macan Calipers W/OEM lines + Red Rubber Grease
345mm zimmerman blank rotors
Ferodo DS2500 *no longer using these*
RS3 Ducts
Neuspeed titanium shims
Permatex Ceramic Extreme lube on pad backing, pins and clips
After a couple rounds of bleeding the brakes felt good. They are more than anyone could need on the street. The pedal was nice and high and stopping was noticeably improved. On the track, the pedal was high but I didn't like the modulation as much (vague pedal feel when hard braking which caused traction light in sport mode). I'm running OBD11 mods with booster set to 1. I decided to add the EBC Master cylinder brace and try PFC 08 pads (more endurance based). The pedal is even more instantaneous than before. If RRG is an 8, adding the MCB makes it a 9. I think adding RPV's would make them too touchy and possibly induce drag at this point. I've done about 6 events and will most likely keep this setup for next year (will replace oem seals with high temp version). The rears have Ferodo DS2500's. Overall this is a great budget brake setup!
ECS! On the topic of EBC, I did run EBC yellow pads for 4 years and never had much of an issue (predictable and rotor friendly). At a faster pace they really fall off though. My Dad toasted a pair of Blue's in 1 day at WGI in his R. To be honest I couldn't tell much of a difference between DS2500 and EBC Yellow/Blues. Alot of it has to do with temps. With the setup above, the rotors were seeing 600F on a 70 degree day. I think that can be decreased alot with curved vain/2-piece rotor and definitely with some proper brake ducting.
ECS! On the topic of EBC, I did run EBC yellow pads for 4 years and never had much of an issue (predictable and rotor friendly). At a faster pace they really fall off though. My Dad toasted a pair of Blue's in 1 day at WGI in his R. To be honest I couldn't tell much of a difference between DS2500 and EBC Yellow/Blues. Alot of it has to do with temps. With the setup above, the rotors were seeing 600F on a 70 degree day. I think that can be decreased alot with curved vain/2-piece rotor and definitely with some proper brake ducting.
Macan Calipers W/OEM lines + Red Rubber Grease
345mm zimmerman blank rotors
Ferodo DS2500 *no longer using these*
RS3 Ducts
Neuspeed titanium shims
Permatex Ceramic Extreme lube on pad backing, pins and clips
After a couple rounds of bleeding the brakes felt good. They are more than anyone could need on the street. The pedal was nice and high and stopping was noticeably improved. On the track, the pedal was high but I didn't like the modulation as much (vague pedal feel when hard braking which caused traction light in sport mode). I'm running OBD11 mods with booster set to 1. I decided to add the EBC Master cylinder brace and try PFC 08 pads (more endurance based). The pedal is even more instantaneous than before. If RRG is an 8, adding the MCB makes it a 9. I think adding RPV's would make them too touchy and possibly induce drag at this point. I've done about 6 events and will most likely keep this setup for next year (will replace oem seals with high temp version). The rears have Ferodo DS2500's. Overall this is a great budget brake setup!
Macan Calipers W/OEM lines + Red Rubber Grease
345mm zimmerman blank rotors
Ferodo DS2500 *no longer using these*
RS3 Ducts
Neuspeed titanium shims
Permatex Ceramic Extreme lube on pad backing, pins and clips
After a couple rounds of bleeding the brakes felt good. They are more than anyone could need on the street. The pedal was nice and high and stopping was noticeably improved. On the track, the pedal was high but I didn't like the modulation as much (vague pedal feel when hard braking which caused traction light in sport mode). I'm running OBD11 mods with booster set to 1. I decided to add the EBC Master cylinder brace and try PFC 08 pads (more endurance based). The pedal is even more instantaneous than before. If RRG is an 8, adding the MCB makes it a 9. I think adding RPV's would make them too touchy and possibly induce drag at this point. I've done about 6 events and will most likely keep this setup for next year (will replace oem seals with high temp version). The rears have Ferodo DS2500's. Overall this is a great budget brake setup!
I often make several (maybe dozens) of stops from 10, sometimes even 12 mph down to zero in rapid succession on the I-405 South... I should brake ducts!!!