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Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
Just search "this thread" for Motegi. You don't have to do anything with the rears unless you want to. Most people only upgrade front brakes.
search.JPG
 

ctrldel

New member
Location
Canada
Car(s)
MK7 GTI 2017
Is the dust shield for a 312mm rotor large enough to protect ball joint and other parts from the hot brake dust?

I want to avoid damage the rubber parts.
 

mr wrong

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Franklin TN
Anyone try these on 17x8.5 43mm et Apex SM10 wheels?
 

ctrldel

New member
Location
Canada
Car(s)
MK7 GTI 2017
I just reused the oem shield. Bent it back slightly and it's been holding up perfectly.
So you have any pictures of how the rotor fitted relative to the shield.
I'm worried about running a shield that can't protection the rubber parts from hot brake dust.
 

MaxM97

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Canton, Connecticut
Car(s)
'15 VW GTI S DBP LP
So you have any pictures of how the rotor fitted relative to the shield.
I'm worried about running a shield that can't protection the rubber parts from hot brake dust.
5EBC8B59-C70B-4AAE-BA64-C2AAC6FE8B6B.png

Here’s a screen grab from a recent dealer inspection, this is a good shot that shows the 312 shield and the ball joint.
 

gte718h

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Atlanta, GA
Hello @GTIfan99 and @yirayira. Thanks for putting together this thread. It's so comprehensive that the only additional information may be continuing to add wheel fitment information. I just ordered a single Macan front caliper to test fit on my GTI with OZ Ultraleggera 17x8 +48mm. The caliper just barely touched the wheel so it will need a spacer. I think 3mm may do the trick but I went with 5mm to be on the safe side with heat expansion and all.

Thanks!

J
 

mr wrong

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Franklin TN
Spent the last several days reading the entire thread. Some questions and an observation.

There was some talk about the Prodigywerks calipers. I was very close to pulling the trigger on those but then considered what would happen if I lost a pin or needed to rebuild them. I was informed that any parts would need to be sourced through them. That was a nonstarter for me. Something to keep in mind if you're considering them.

On to the topic at hand. Full disclosure. I have an Alltrack and I'm doing this primarily for looks and something to do. This car will never see a track only spirted street driving. Flame away.

This will be the first time I crack the lines going to the calipers. I've never even bled my own brakes before, just had it done at the dealer. I'm buying the recommended Motive Power Bleeder, and also read a few mentions about cycling the ABS pump but was told on a FB group that "a lot can go wrong". Is there risk involved when doing that? Is it totally necessary?

I plan on leaving the color as is but might paint them later on using the G2 kit. I was thinking of painting them the same color as the silver cladding on my Alltrack. Not too keen on taking them apart to powder coat.

I see that some people were turned off by the RPV's, so I will not be doing those.

Do the pistons need to be removed when applying the Red Rubber Grease? Is there a guide somewhere? A video perhaps? Again, I've never messed with them before and don't want to screw something up.

What is the procedure for changing the pads? What tool is required to compress the pistons? Is that even necessary on these calipers?

There's roughly two years of posts here. Would anyone do anything differently after living with them for a bit?

Thanks..
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S
Spent the last several days reading the entire thread. Some questions and an observation.

There was some talk about the Prodigywerks calipers. I was very close to pulling the trigger on those but then considered what would happen if I lost a pin or needed to rebuild them. I was informed that any parts would need to be sourced through them. That was a nonstarter for me. Something to keep in mind if you're considering them.

On to the topic at hand. Full disclosure. I have an Alltrack and I'm doing this primarily for looks and something to do. This car will never see a track only spirted street driving. Flame away.

This will be the first time I crack the lines going to the calipers. I've never even bled my own brakes before, just had it done at the dealer. I'm buying the recommended Motive Power Bleeder, and also read a few mentions about cycling the ABS pump but was told on a FB group that "a lot can go wrong". Is there risk involved when doing that? Is it totally necessary?

I plan on leaving the color as is but might paint them later on using the G2 kit. I was thinking of painting them the same color as the silver cladding on my Alltrack. Not too keen on taking them apart to powder coat.

I see that some people were turned off by the RPV's, so I will not be doing those.

Do the pistons need to be removed when applying the Red Rubber Grease? Is there a guide somewhere? A video perhaps? Again, I've never messed with them before and don't want to screw something up.

What is the procedure for changing the pads? What tool is required to compress the pistons? Is that even necessary on these calipers?

There's roughly two years of posts here. Would anyone do anything differently after living with them for a bit?

Thanks..
Interesting on the Prodigywerks calipers. I've emailed them about rebuild kits but never heard back. I just know their 4 piston 312 setup uses 2000 mercedes s class w220 pads.

I believe it's best to use the red grease as assembly lube, but I believe @GTIfan99 said it can also be applied to the sides where it contacts the seals.

Any pad style spreading tool should work. A ratcheting one is the style I like. I have one like this guy.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...X3AhWGD0QIHRL0C_4Qwg8oAHoECAEQGw&dct=1&adurl=

Might want look for a set with a larger pad included if you want to use on 6 pot or other cars with larger brakes.
https://www.powerbuilt.com/products/ratcheting-disc-brake-piston-spreader-tool

Did you get the motive black label with the aluminum cap? You'll need 2 bar or 30 PSI to bleed the ABS module.

I can send you the 1.8T erwin pre bleed, standard bleed, and if needed post bleed procedures if you'd like.

I'm looking at the NQSBBK with Porsche 986 calipers and the stock 312mm rotors. Isn't bolt on as it requires mounting brackets and banjo bolts.
 
Last edited:

J Peterman

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
I have these on a GSW. They are a bolt on affair. Buy a set of pads with strong bite. The Centric Posi Quiets I’m running are cheap and don’t dust at all but aren’t exactly confidence inspiring. I probably still have some air in my lines though, they need to be bled correctly otherwise the initial pedal travel will be mushy (mine is). I did not do RPV or RRG, but did all the OBD11 stuff. They look great and work just fine for my daily driving needs.
 

mr wrong

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Franklin TN
Interesting on the Prodigywerks calipers. I've emailed them about rebuild kits but never heard back. I just know their 4 piston 312 setup uses 2000 mercedes s class w220 pads.

I believe it's best to use the red grease as assembly lube, but I believe @GTIfan99 said it can also be applied to the sides where it contacts the seals.

Any pad style spreading tool should work. A ratcheting one is the style I like. I have one like this guy.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...X3AhWGD0QIHRL0C_4Qwg8oAHoECAEQGw&dct=1&adurl=

Might want look for a set with a larger pad included if you want to use on 6 pot or other cars with larger brakes.
https://www.powerbuilt.com/products/ratcheting-disc-brake-piston-spreader-tool

Did you get the motive black label with the aluminum cap? You'll need 2 bar or 30 PSI to bleed the ABS module.

I can send you the 1.8T erwin pre bleed, standard bleed, and if needed post bleed procedures if you'd like.

I'm looking at the NQSBBK with Porsche 986 calipers and the stock 312mm rotors. Isn't bolt on as it requires mounting brackets and banjo bolts.

It wasn't really the pads I was worried about with the Prodigywerks calipers, rather any seals or hardware. At least with the Macan calipers any parts can be sourced locally. I could be wrong as there's over 2500 posts here, but I thought I recalled there even being an AC Delco hardware kit that works with these which means that any number of local GM dealers, or parts houses would have parts available in a pinch

Can the grease be applied when the pistons are flush in the caliper or do the need to be extended? That's the part I'm worried about as scratching or nicking the surface of those can lead to trouble.

I'm getting the Motive Black Label with the aluminum cap

I'd love the Erwin guide. Thank you.

I really considered the 986 calipers and still am but they're almost impossible to find used. I'm also not too keen on needing brackets, which there's only one supplier of. plus once you purchase just the calipers and brackets you've spent more than the entire Macan kit with rotors and pads. Plus I like how the Macan kit fills the wheel.
 

mr wrong

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Franklin TN
I have these on a GSW. They are a bolt on affair. Buy a set of pads with strong bite. The Centric Posi Quiets I’m running are cheap and don’t dust at all but aren’t exactly confidence inspiring. I probably still have some air in my lines though, they need to be bled correctly otherwise the initial pedal travel will be mushy (mine is). I did not do RPV or RRG, but did all the OBD11 stuff. They look great and work just fine for my daily driving needs.

Would you say you got used to the pedal feel? My huge concern is letting my wife or daughter drive the car and have them panic if they feel something is wrong with the brakes.
 

J Peterman

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
I’ve totally gotten used to it. Stabbing the pedal and then braking again decreases the mushy pedal travel for me, which makes me think I need to have them rebled. But I’ve been driving them like that for 2 years probably. Only had them bled when they were initially installed.

My Dad drove my car for a few days visiting and I mentioned the brake feel might be different than his non-PP Mk7 GTI. Very experienced manual driver. Brakes didn’t bother him at all.
 

a$ap

Ready to race!
Location
IL
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
Would you say you got used to the pedal feel? My huge concern is letting my wife or daughter drive the car and have them panic if they feel something is wrong with the brakes.

Spent the last several days reading the entire thread. Some questions and an observation.

There was some talk about the Prodigywerks calipers. I was very close to pulling the trigger on those but then considered what would happen if I lost a pin or needed to rebuild them. I was informed that any parts would need to be sourced through them. That was a nonstarter for me. Something to keep in mind if you're considering them.

On to the topic at hand. Full disclosure. I have an Alltrack and I'm doing this primarily for looks and something to do. This car will never see a track only spirted street driving. Flame away.

This will be the first time I crack the lines going to the calipers. I've never even bled my own brakes before, just had it done at the dealer. I'm buying the recommended Motive Power Bleeder, and also read a few mentions about cycling the ABS pump but was told on a FB group that "a lot can go wrong". Is there risk involved when doing that? Is it totally necessary?

I plan on leaving the color as is but might paint them later on using the G2 kit. I was thinking of painting them the same color as the silver cladding on my Alltrack. Not too keen on taking them apart to powder coat.

I see that some people were turned off by the RPV's, so I will not be doing those.

Do the pistons need to be removed when applying the Red Rubber Grease? Is there a guide somewhere? A video perhaps? Again, I've never messed with them before and don't want to screw something up.

What is the procedure for changing the pads? What tool is required to compress the pistons? Is that even necessary on these calipers?

There's roughly two years of posts here. Would anyone do anything differently after living with them for a bit?

Thanks..
I don't regret the Brembo upgrade but in hindsight I should have stuck with my PP's. I initially did not do the RRG and bled them several times. Brakes had a mush but I got used to it. 2 weeks later I took apart brakes replaced seals and applied RRG. It improved slightly. Im thinking there's still air in lines and will continue bleed later.
I have gotten used to the pedal feel and they do feel more linear.
The biggest issue is when you have to press on brakes quickly. The dead space or lack of quick bite will make your heart drop the first time you need to stop quickly.
Just my 2 cents, others have had greater success with these. I put way more time on these brakes than anticipated, my goals were mostly aesthetic and brakes were due to be changed at the time.
 

mr wrong

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Franklin TN
The biggest issue is when you have to press on brakes quickly. The dead space or lack of quick bite will make your heart drop the first time you need to stop quickly.

Hmmm. I'm really starting to re-think this. I want my brakes to alleviate 'heart drop' moments, not be the cause of them.
 
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