Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

[turbojzrr]

Are you talking about the brake lines when you say stainless? Tighten it with a line wrench but you don't have to overdo it, don't torque it down like a banjo bolt. 200nm or ~148ft lb for the two large bolts to the spindle. Easy way to do that is turn the steering wheel all the way to that side so you can get leverage on those bolts without being stuck in the fender well.



View attachment 229662

Thanks a lot for this… was very helpful.

was able to get this on with Zimmerman blanks, R4 pads, RS4 heat shields and RS4 ducts. @Will_ would love to go to LS With you just to compare rotor temps next time. I wonder if is the rotors, calipers or heat shield etc.

FYI R4 pads dust a lot. I just bed in the pads on this car with a completely clean wheel and the above pic is taken 20 mins after bedding.

I had both pressure bleed and also brake pump bleed the front and also rear calipers but the pedal is very spongy, and currently vibrates at high pedal pressure… will try again to bleed it this afternoon after a second bedding attempt

 

[turbojzrr]

Some notes on heat. @Bernb6 and I tracked at Sonoma today. Our cars are setup very very similar and we were running similar times, but he is using Stoptech ST-40 brakes with their two piece rotors and Pagid RSL29 pads. After a session we used a pyrometer to check rotor/caliper temps. Our rear brakes (both stock) were similar, about 320F rotor temp. On the front however, with Macan/DS2500/RS3 duct setup I had 520F rotor temp, whereas he had only 350F. Seems to show what a quality 2-piece rotor setup will do versus blank Zimmermans.

I suspect ST rotors have directional vanes that channel air out of the center.

 

[GTIfan99]

I'd also like to know if the Macan setup has heat shields vs the ST setup?

 

[Brian_]

Thanks a lot for this… was very helpful.

was able to get this on with Zimmerman blanks, R4 pads, RS4 heat shields and RS4 ducts. @Will_ would love to go to LS With you just to compare rotor temps next time. I wonder if is the rotors, calipers or heat shield etc.

FYI R4 pads dust a lot. I just bed in the pads on this car with a completely clean wheel and the above pic is taken 20 mins after bedding.

I had both pressure bleed and also brake pump bleed the front and also rear calipers but the pedal is very spongy, and currently vibrates at high pedal pressure… will try again to bleed it this afternoon after a second bedding attempt

Did you need a spacer for those wheels to clear?

 

[Will_]

I'd also like to know if the Macan setup has heat shields vs the ST setup?

I have trimmed non-pp dust shields, don’t recall what Bern’s is using.

@turbojzrr ill be at Laguna on Sat the 27th!

 

[FST_NML]

@Will_ , thank you for your feedback. IIRC, you installed your Macan calipers as is, ie no RPV no RRG, yeah? if so, does your brake pedal have the initial dead travel too? and if it does, does/did it affect your tracking of the car?

 

[turbojzrr]

Did you need a spacer for those wheels to clear?

They won’t clear without. I have on there 10mm spacers and it looks like there is a 2-3 mm gap between caliper and spokes.

 

[jimlloyd40]

They won’t clear without. I have on there 10mm spacers and it looks like there is a 2-3 mm gap between caliper and spokes.

Even then you need to account for wheel weights when balancing or the weights will can the caliper. I have to have the weights mounted towards the inside of the wheel.

 

[turbojzrr]

Even then you need to account for wheel weights when balancing or the weights will can the caliper. I have to have the weights mounted towards the inside of the wheel.

Oh good point. I have the factory 19’s and so far there is a big gap in the barrel

 

[Will_]

@Will_ , thank you for your feedback. IIRC, you installed your Macan calipers as is, ie no RPV no RRG, yeah? if so, does your brake pedal have the initial dead travel too? and if it does, does/did it affect your tracking of the car?

After the OBD11 changes, aside from the first braking application of a session (like the first brake zone on a warm up lap), the pedal has very little travel before biting, and is very linear. The DS2500 pads may help with that too as they’re know for a strong initial bite.

I have pretty much no complaints on the track. Had the pedal get slightly longer twice when I’ve overheated the DS2500 pads. Otherwise it is high and firm all session. I am not as picky about brake feel as others seem to be however.

 

[turbojzrr]

After the OBD11 changes, aside from the first braking application of a session (like the first brake zone on a warm up lap), the pedal has very little travel before biting, and is very linear. The DS2500 pads may help with that too as they’re know for a strong initial bite.

I have pretty much no complaints on the track. Had the pedal get slightly longer twice when I’ve overheated the DS2500 pads. Otherwise it is high and firm all session. I am not as picky about brake feel as others seem to be however.

Hey Will, which specific OBDELEVEN adaptation are you referring to here?

I just verified now that I did do the hydraulic brake assist and the two other adaptations listed in the OP but I did it when I still had the PP brakes.

Switching over to the macan calipers this week, after a second bleeding post pad bedding, I found that the dead pedal travel is still a huge increase and the pedal is mushy. During the second bleeding, I let the bleeder run for almost half a quart and no air came out from any of the 4 calipers (even with whacking the calipers with a mallet).

what’s weird is that my mom owns a macan base, and her pedal is very firm, so it is definitely not the case of caliper design or air in the lines.

 

[GTIfan99]

Hey Will, which specific OBDELEVEN adaptation are you referring to here?

I just verified now that I did do the hydraulic brake assist and the two other adaptations listed in the OP but I did it when I still had the PP brakes.

Switching over to the macan calipers this week, after a second bleeding post pad bedding, I found that the dead pedal travel is still a huge increase and the pedal is mushy. During the second bleeding, I let the bleeder run for almost half a quart and no air came out from any of the 4 calipers (even with whacking the calipers with a mallet).

what’s weird is that my mom owns a macan base, and her pedal is very firm, so it is definitely not the case of caliper design or air in the lines.

Macan probably has different MC.

Did you use RRG? Did you bleed in the correct order and at 30 psi?

Until I did those things, it was mushy.

It gets long with RBF660 after a few sessions on track and needed to be bleed. Switched back to RBF600 and haven't been having same issue. 660 seems to pick up moisture quicker in humid regions.

 

[Will_]

Hey Will, which specific OBDELEVEN adaptation are you referring to here?

I just verified now that I did do the hydraulic brake assist and the two other adaptations listed in the OP but I did it when I still had the PP brakes.

Switching over to the macan calipers this week, after a second bleeding post pad bedding, I found that the dead pedal travel is still a huge increase and the pedal is mushy. During the second bleeding, I let the bleeder run for almost half a quart and no air came out from any of the 4 calipers (even with whacking the calipers with a mallet).

what’s weird is that my mom owns a macan base, and her pedal is very firm, so it is definitely not the case of caliper design or air in the lines.

Specifically I turned off “hydraulic brake assistant”, “straight ahead brake stabilization” and changed “brake booster” from 4 to 2.

 

[scrllock]

Switching over to the macan calipers this week, after a second bleeding post pad bedding, I found that the dead pedal travel is still a huge increase and the pedal is mushy. During the second bleeding, I let the bleeder run for almost half a quart and no air came out from any of the 4 calipers (even with whacking the calipers with a mallet).

what’s weird is that my mom owns a macan base, and her pedal is very firm, so it is definitely not the case of caliper design or air in the lines.

Sounds like this is good evidence against all mk7.5R having the same 25.4mm M/C bore as the macan.

 

[Cuzoe]

Sounds like this is good evidence against all mk7.5R having the same 25.4mm M/C bore as the macan.

I measured a GTI/R master cylinder way back when, link here. Not claiming brake feel is or should be the same between the two makes. Or that the master cylinder design is the same, but the bore looks to be the same.

I recall (fuzzily) that the Golf TSI/TDI had the same M/C part number when I was looking, years ago. The GTI/R/S3 all had the same part number. Don't remember for the wagons but would guess the all-track gets the uprated part.