Clutchless ignition update: solved (maybe)

[Raguvian]

This is one of the coolest DIY mods IMO. Thanks a ton OP. I have too many other projects to do right now but this is definitely on the list.

 

[Golf7RR]

I have it working.

I ended up tapping the bracket so I could thread through it instead of epoxying nuts in the back. I'll probably throw some loctite on the bolts just because. I didn't use the aluminum ones, I just used some regular button head 6-32s that I had laying around.

I also never got the nut for the solenoid so I had to cut a nut down to make it fit. That was a pain in the ass.

I tried doing double return springs since with how far the shaft can retract, it seemed like there wouldn't be enough pressure. Turns out there was too much pressure with the double springs and the solenoid couldn't actually get it started. If I tapped it with my finger it was fine. So I removed the second spring and it's been working.

I just have to mount my switch. I did a momentary toggle in the cubby. I'll probably do a button instead.

Thanks for the work figuring this all out. It's a hack and I wish it could be done in software instead, but it's a great solution anyway.

hey fella's tried and failed again. i can get the second item active plunger all out, but cannot get the first control item inactive (plunger de-activated). how did joedubs get the magnet onto the end? epoxy or the rubber thingy like ridbjj? so far a real pain to get this working. ridbjj, definitly matters if i change magnet orientation and then i don't get the active on the plunger depressed but do get the de-activation on the plunger retracted..i tried all types of combinations of magnets and lengths. it's not an easy feat to get this to work.

 

[Ridebjj]

hey fella's tried and failed again. i can get the second item active plunger all out, but cannot get the first control item inactive (plunger de-activated). how did joedubs get the magnet onto the end? epoxy or the rubber thingy like ridbjj? so far a real pain to get this working. ridbjj, definitly matters if i change magnet orientation and then i don't get the active on the plunger depressed but do get the de-activation on the plunger retracted..i tried all types of combinations of magnets and lengths. it's not an easy feat to get this to work.

It sounds like the whole rig is just slightly too close to the sensor. I definitely remember the difference between sensor 2 deactivating or not was miniscule. Can you move the rig back towards to passenger side a bit? Maybe grind the holes in the clutch housing to be a bit oval? 1 or 2mm could be all it takes.

 

[Golf7RR]

It sounds like the whole rig is just slightly too close to the sensor. I definitely remember the difference between sensor 2 deactivating or not was miniscule. Can you move the rig back towards to passenger side a bit? Maybe grind the holes in the clutch housing to be a bit oval? 1 or 2mm could be all it takes.

ok will do. thank you.

 

[Ridebjj]

ok will do. thank you.

Got a Pic of your setup? How did you end up putting the magnets on the end?

 

[joedubs]

Got a Pic of your setup? How did you end up putting the magnets on the end?

Sounds dumb. I used the cap from a magic marker. It's the right diameter for the magnets to fit inside it. I cut it a shade longer than the magnets themselves and I was able to epoxy it onto the end of the shaft. I wasn't crazy about that because now I can't remove the shaft.

It allows the shaft to retract far enough to deactivate everything. It actually retracts a hair TOO far. I need to throw a washer of some sort on it... Its so far back that it doesn't always trigger. Works 99% of the time. I've had one failure and it's when the car had been sitting in the sun for a while. All I had to do was tap the back and it worked fine again.

I thought I took some pics but I can't find em. I'll try to snap some later.

 

[Golf7RR]

Sounds dumb. I used the cap from a magic marker. It's the right diameter for the magnets to fit inside it. I cut it a shade longer than the magnets themselves and I was able to epoxy it onto the end of the shaft. I wasn't crazy about that because now I can't remove the shaft.

It allows the shaft to retract far enough to deactivate everything. It actually retracts a hair TOO far. I need to throw a washer of some sort on it... Its so far back that it doesn't always trigger. Works 99% of the time. I've had one failure and it's when the car had been sitting in the sun for a while. All I had to do was tap the back and it worked fine again.

I thought I took some pics but I can't find em. I'll try to snap some later.

Got a Pic of your setup? How did you end up putting the magnets on the end?

welp, i thought i had everything working until I wired everything up (to a ext. battery to start). i added a rubber washer to the body threads of the solenoid to make up the space needed instead of more drilling. Thanks Ridbjj, then it was working by hand. then went to try it powered and the solenoid doesn't start until i give it a nudge. i think the magnet on the end has enough magnetism to sort of hold it up. and worse than that though it does hit active everytime on the second control.. what I noticed playing with it a bit is that the solenoid got very very hot. I forgot what the draw was, but it's probably pretty high. i might have to cut the retraction spring a bit to help, but something tells me that won't help...to answer the ques. I glued the magnet to a du-bro collar i used to use on hobbies. it is basically a wheel-collar with a setscrew that fits on the end of the plunger. acts as a base for the magnet. but it is metal(magnetic) so i think that is what is making it stick to the solenoid body when retracted just enough to not allow the solenoid to start without a nudge...worst case i might have to run a bit higher Vdc to overcome the need for the nudge, but obviously not too much to burn out the coil of the solenoid. looks like the solenoid can take a 22Vdc pulse for 32sec. at %10 Duty/Cycle. .or just have to pry the stuff all off and go with a different magnet/mounting arrangement.

 

[Ridebjj]

Right, any magnetic influence when it's retracted could prevent it from extending.

But you could Try a different shorter spring, or yes cut it down a bit.
Also, dab a bit of grease at the base of the rod.

Seems like you've almost got it.

 

[Ridebjj]

Ttt for the 6 month update.

Still works every time.

As you were.

 

[Golf7RR]

Right, any magnetic influence when it's retracted could prevent it from extending.

But you could Try a different shorter spring, or yes cut it down a bit.
Also, dab a bit of grease at the base of the ro

Seems like you've almost got it.

Thanks. shortening the spring and adjusting the magnets just a bit did the trick!. finally got to work on it and got it working!! thanks much!!!..

 

[Ridebjj]

Thanks. shortening the spring and adjusting the magnets just a bit did the trick!. finally got to work on it and got it working!! thanks much!!!..

Awesome sauce.

 

[S1ack]

Ridebjj
So after all these months, when you scan, do you see these at all?

        C10BF01 - Clutch position sensor Electrical error
            Intermittent
        C10BF29 - Clutch position sensor Implausible signal
            Intermittent

Edit: another question.
This is what the bracket looks like after uploading to shapeways (using .stl format)



Seems incorrect. Ideas?

 

[Ridebjj]

Ridebjj
So after all these months, when you scan, do you see these at all?

        C10BF01 - Clutch position sensor Electrical error
            Intermittent
        C10BF29 - Clutch position sensor Implausible signal
            Intermittent

Edit: another question.
This is what the bracket looks like after uploading to shapeways (using .stl format)



Seems incorrect. Ideas?

Nope. I haven't had those codes.

Somewhere in this thread there's another link to the corrected file.

 

[A7xogg]

Nope. I haven't had those codes.

Somewhere in this thread there's another link to the corrected file.

Sent you a pm

 

[S1ack]

Yea, another user contacted me by Dm and said they told him the same thing. Which is weird. Mine went through no problem. But I got the new version of the fixed file they sent him and updated my shapeways link with it.

Sorry about that.

I'm going to try and get the diy up this weekend.

On page 5 you said you updated your shapeways link with the new file.
Searching thread for shapeways and tinkercad, I cannot find it.

Any chance you have either link in your browser history. And could spare the time to re-share.

Somewhere in this thread there's another link to the corrected file.