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Clutchless ignition update: solved (maybe)

joedubs

Passed Driver's Ed
For sure this is the hackiest hack that's ever been hacked.
Idk if it's the hackiest.... But it's definitely up there. Lol.

Seriously, the bracket drawing was epic! My own prototype was the magnets stuck inside a bic pen mounted to a little L bracket.

Again though, it's too bad there's no easy way to do it with contact closures etc. It would be much nicer "electrically" instead of physically moving something into place. Maybe one day.
 

Raguvian

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Bay Area, CA
Car(s)
2019 GSW 4MO 6MT
This is one of the coolest DIY mods IMO. Thanks a ton OP. I have too many other projects to do right now but this is definitely on the list.
 

Golf7RR

Ready to race!
Location
NE
I have it working.

I ended up tapping the bracket so I could thread through it instead of epoxying nuts in the back. I'll probably throw some loctite on the bolts just because. I didn't use the aluminum ones, I just used some regular button head 6-32s that I had laying around.

I also never got the nut for the solenoid so I had to cut a nut down to make it fit. That was a pain in the ass.

I tried doing double return springs since with how far the shaft can retract, it seemed like there wouldn't be enough pressure. Turns out there was too much pressure with the double springs and the solenoid couldn't actually get it started. If I tapped it with my finger it was fine. So I removed the second spring and it's been working.

I just have to mount my switch. I did a momentary toggle in the cubby. I'll probably do a button instead.

Thanks for the work figuring this all out. It's a hack and I wish it could be done in software instead, but it's a great solution anyway.
hey fella's tried and failed again. i can get the second item active plunger all out, but cannot get the first control item inactive (plunger de-activated). how did joedubs get the magnet onto the end? epoxy or the rubber thingy like ridbjj? so far a real pain to get this working. ridbjj, definitly matters if i change magnet orientation and then i don't get the active on the plunger depressed but do get the de-activation on the plunger retracted..i tried all types of combinations of magnets and lengths. it's not an easy feat to get this to work.
 

Ridebjj

Go Kart Champion
Location
lasVegas
hey fella's tried and failed again. i can get the second item active plunger all out, but cannot get the first control item inactive (plunger de-activated). how did joedubs get the magnet onto the end? epoxy or the rubber thingy like ridbjj? so far a real pain to get this working. ridbjj, definitly matters if i change magnet orientation and then i don't get the active on the plunger depressed but do get the de-activation on the plunger retracted..i tried all types of combinations of magnets and lengths. it's not an easy feat to get this to work.
It sounds like the whole rig is just slightly too close to the sensor. I definitely remember the difference between sensor 2 deactivating or not was miniscule. Can you move the rig back towards to passenger side a bit? Maybe grind the holes in the clutch housing to be a bit oval? 1 or 2mm could be all it takes.
 

Golf7RR

Ready to race!
Location
NE
It sounds like the whole rig is just slightly too close to the sensor. I definitely remember the difference between sensor 2 deactivating or not was miniscule. Can you move the rig back towards to passenger side a bit? Maybe grind the holes in the clutch housing to be a bit oval? 1 or 2mm could be all it takes.
ok will do. thank you.
 

joedubs

Passed Driver's Ed
Got a Pic of your setup? How did you end up putting the magnets on the end?
Sounds dumb. I used the cap from a magic marker. It's the right diameter for the magnets to fit inside it. I cut it a shade longer than the magnets themselves and I was able to epoxy it onto the end of the shaft. I wasn't crazy about that because now I can't remove the shaft.

It allows the shaft to retract far enough to deactivate everything. It actually retracts a hair TOO far. I need to throw a washer of some sort on it... Its so far back that it doesn't always trigger. Works 99% of the time. I've had one failure and it's when the car had been sitting in the sun for a while. All I had to do was tap the back and it worked fine again.

I thought I took some pics but I can't find em. I'll try to snap some later.
 

Golf7RR

Ready to race!
Location
NE
Sounds dumb. I used the cap from a magic marker. It's the right diameter for the magnets to fit inside it. I cut it a shade longer than the magnets themselves and I was able to epoxy it onto the end of the shaft. I wasn't crazy about that because now I can't remove the shaft.

It allows the shaft to retract far enough to deactivate everything. It actually retracts a hair TOO far. I need to throw a washer of some sort on it... Its so far back that it doesn't always trigger. Works 99% of the time. I've had one failure and it's when the car had been sitting in the sun for a while. All I had to do was tap the back and it worked fine again.

I thought I took some pics but I can't find em. I'll try to snap some later.
Got a Pic of your setup? How did you end up putting the magnets on the end?
welp, i thought i had everything working until I wired everything up (to a ext. battery to start). i added a rubber washer to the body threads of the solenoid to make up the space needed instead of more drilling. Thanks Ridbjj, then it was working by hand. then went to try it powered and the solenoid doesn't start until i give it a nudge. i think the magnet on the end has enough magnetism to sort of hold it up. and worse than that though it does hit active everytime on the second control.. what I noticed playing with it a bit is that the solenoid got very very hot. I forgot what the draw was, but it's probably pretty high. i might have to cut the retraction spring a bit to help, but something tells me that won't help...to answer the ques. I glued the magnet to a du-bro collar i used to use on hobbies. it is basically a wheel-collar with a setscrew that fits on the end of the plunger. acts as a base for the magnet. but it is metal(magnetic) so i think that is what is making it stick to the solenoid body when retracted just enough to not allow the solenoid to start without a nudge...worst case i might have to run a bit higher Vdc to overcome the need for the nudge, but obviously not too much to burn out the coil of the solenoid. looks like the solenoid can take a 22Vdc pulse for 32sec. at %10 Duty/Cycle. .or just have to pry the stuff all off and go with a different magnet/mounting arrangement.
 

Ridebjj

Go Kart Champion
Location
lasVegas
Right, any magnetic influence when it's retracted could prevent it from extending.

But you could Try a different shorter spring, or yes cut it down a bit.
Also, dab a bit of grease at the base of the rod.

Seems like you've almost got it.
 
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