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Clutchless ignition update: solved (maybe)

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
Let's just get this party started now I guess.

Here's some pics for everyone else to show where you're trying to get the magnet to go, and how to know where the mount goes.

clutchpedal2a.jpg


The pink circle is where the magnet needs to end up to start the car. As close as possible flat against that exact spot.
The yellow dots are where you drill the holes for mounting.

Next...


clutchpedal1a.jpg


The red circle shows where the two tongues of the mount slide into. VW was very kind in providing these little indentations to serve as a guide.


And here's a final mockup showing more or less where the mount ends up.

clutchpedal3.jpg


You may be wondering how the mount is actually held on with the bolts - how you get the nuts in there. You'll have to *carefully* epoxy the nuts onto the back of the mount in the right place and let dry before install. That way they will already be in the right place for the little m3 screws to thread in. Another warning, it's a bitch to hold the rig in place with one hand and use a long allen key with the other.

More to come.
 

Golf7RR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NE
Let's just get this party started now I guess.

Here's some pics for everyone else to show where you're trying to get the magnet to go, and how to know where the mount goes.



The pink circle is where the magnet needs to end up to start the car. As close as possible flat against that exact spot.
The yellow dots are where you drill the holes for mounting.

Next...




The red circle shows where the two tongues of the mount slide into. VW was very kind in providing these little indentations to serve as a guide.


And here's a final mockup showing more or less where the mount ends up.

View attachment 170728

You may be wondering how the mount is actually held on with the bolts - how you get the nuts in there. You'll have to *carefully* epoxy the nuts onto the back of the mount in the right place and let dry before install. That way they will already be in the right place for the little m3 screws to thread in. Another warning, it's a bitch to hold the rig in place with one hand and use a long allen key with the other.

More to come.

Wow! ok so the nuts get mounted/glued after drilling the holes for the mount through the plastic clutch/pedal mount plastic material? I mean the nuts get glued to the plastic right on the back end right?
 

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
ok got it about screws. yes i got the bracket in today..just watched your video. wow. you really displayed it in detail. just a few q's. wjat did you use for your homemade C-clip? also wont the rubber/glue/magnets eventually rip off b/c the solenoid plunger snaps back with the spring when de-energized? then again, i guess not b/c you've been good to go thus far. just seems a difficult way to put the magnets on the end of this thing. wow..have to think about it. also, i was thinking about using rare-earth magnets, but maybe not since the field strength might be too much and would be attracted to the steel nuts on the other end of the M3 screws. thanks for the vid that described it. you really put alot of work into this and helping us all out! kudos to you!! thanks.

I think I just cut a washer or something to make a c-clip. It's probably not necessary. Just put a little dab of epoxy on the end of the rod, then push the rubber mount onto that - but be careful not to use too much such that it overflows onto the rod itself or it will end up getting stuck when retracted. Guess how I figured that out.
I used rare earth (neodymium) magnets. I found using 2 smaller ones stacked like that was just enough to trip the sensors, yet not so strong that either of them stayed tripped after retraction. That's why VCDS is handy for this. You can make sure during install that the sensors are properly on and then off again.

The steel nuts on the back side won't attract the magnets, not to worry.
 

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
Wow! ok so the nuts get mounted/glued after drilling the holes for the mount through the plastic clutch/pedal mount plastic material? I mean the nuts get glued to the plastic right on the back end right?

No. First you drill your holes (and I have some tips on how to make sure you get them in the right spot I'll explain soon).

Then you glue the nuts directly to the *back* of the 3d printed mount so the screws can come through.

Then when it's dry you hold the mount and screw in the screws.

You're not gluing anything to the clutch pedal mount or doing anything to it besides making those small holes.
 

Golf7RR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NE
I think I just cut a washer or something to make a c-clip. It's probably not necessary. Just put a little dab of epoxy on the end of the rod, then push the rubber mount onto that - but be careful not to use too much such that it overflows onto the rod itself or it will end up getting stuck when retracted. Guess how I figured that out.
I used rare earth (neodymium) magnets. I found using 2 smaller ones stacked like that was just enough to trip the sensors, yet not so strong that either of them stayed tripped after retraction. That's why VCDS is handy for this. You can make sure during install that the sensors are properly on and then off again.

The steel nuts on the back side won't attract the magnets, not to worry.

that rubber piece is what is holding me up. trying to picture it via your pic. it is a furniture screw hole cover?? I was also thinking about those bumpers that are utilized in cabinet doors so that they cushion the door against the frame of the cabinet to not make it slam back when someone closes a cabinet. was thinking to use something like that and drill a small hole in it and slipping that over the end of the plunger. or my other idea was to use shrink-tubing and shrink tube the magnets along with the plunger all together..just magyver thinking along..
 

Golf7RR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NE
that rubber piece is what is holding me up. trying to picture it via your pic. it is a furniture screw hole cover?? I was also thinking about those bumpers that are utilized in cabinet doors so that they cushion the door against the frame of the cabinet to not make it slam back when someone closes a cabinet. was thinking to use something like that and drill a small hole in it and slipping that over the end of the plunger. or my other idea was to use shrink-tubing and shrink tube the magnets along with the plunger all together..just magyver thinking along..
or even a collar set-screw like this pic:https://www.grainger.com/product/36...kwcid=AL!2966!3!402208053020!!!g!469717069862!
 

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
^^^ Yes, something like you describe. My thing is probably a cabinet stopper or something. Just figure out whatever you need to hold the magnet flat on the end but not something so wide that it hits the top of the mounting screw.
 

Golf7RR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NE
No. First you drill your holes (and I have some tips on how to make sure you get them in the right spot I'll explain soon).

Then you glue the nuts directly to the *back* of the 3d printed mount so the screws can come through.

Then when it's dry you hold the mount and screw in the screws.

You're not gluing anything to the clutch pedal mount or doing anything to it besides making those small holes.

ok i see. thanks look forward to it.

^^^ Yes, something like you describe. My thing is probably a cabinet stopper or something. Just figure out whatever you need to hold the magnet flat on the end but not something so wide that it hits the top of the mounting screw.
got it. now i will need to wait for these aluminum screws. i found these off of ebay. tryin to get them before amazon's lead-time. https://www.ebay.com/itm/M3-x-6-8-1...var=502992156227&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 

Golf7RR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NE
Last vid, about the electronics.

good vid.
ok so if you want the solenoid to always work then you'd leave that switch you put in the cubby "ON" at all times and only turn it "OFF" for example if you want the car in normal factory-like mode..i guess 2sec was enough through your trial and error testing to NOT throw a code for the magnets to be retracted in-time. Nice!

do you know what kind of sensor is on that clutch pedal-side? Is it a hall effect?
also what are the dimensions of the magnet? trying to gauge how far off the plunger and diameter I need to be. thank-you.
 

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
good vid.
ok so if you want the solenoid to always work then you'd leave that switch you put in the cubby "ON" at all times and only turn it "OFF" for example if you want the car in normal factory-like mode..i guess 2sec was enough through your trial and error testing to NOT throw a code for the magnets to be retracted in-time. Nice!

do you know what kind of sensor is on that clutch pedal-side? Is it a hall effect?
also what are the dimensions of the magnet? trying to gauge how far off the plunger and diameter I need to be. thank-you.

Yes. Switch off = car in factory mode.

I don't think matters how long the magnets are in place before retracting as long as you don't start driving the car. I just picked 2 seconds.

My rig uses 2 of the second smallest magnets which are 8mm Dia from this kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BK7XC5S/

You may need a different combo. I had to experiment quite a bit. Again, it was getting the sensors to go off after retraction that was the hard part. That's why I ended up not using the c-clip on the plunger. Those few extra mm of retraction distance was the difference that let the sensors deactivate.

You could try with the c-clip and other magnet combos if you want. You might very well get a different result.

Yes it's hall effect.

Here's the thread that started all this where someone else figured that out.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...nother-15-bricked.363548/page-12#post-7359623
 

Golf7RR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NE
Yes. Switch off = car in factory mode.

I don't think matters how long the magnets are in place before retracting as long as you don't start driving the car. I just picked 2 seconds.

got it. thanks. the exact location of the drilling you were also going to share please. 3mm holes. looks like the dead-center of the square -divets in the pics?
 

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
got it. thanks. the exact location of the drilling you were also going to share please. 3mm holes. looks like the dead-center of the square -divets in the pics?

Pretty much.

What I did, was first I got in there and made sure I could find the divots and the mount's two tongues would slide in properly. I made a couple of dots on top of the housing approximately where I thought the holes would line up, if I had Xray vision and could actually see through. I used a black marker for that.

Then, in order to get it exact, what I did was cut a little piece of paper out that was the size of the tongues and tape it on in such a way that it was not held down at the ends with the two holes, but would fold up towards the big solenoid hole. LIke imagine a little piece of paper folded at 90 degrees taped to the inner "L" shape of the mount with one side covering the big hole and the other covering the tongues.

I did that and taped the end that goes over the big hole and let the other end sit on top of the two little holes. then I punched holes in the paper in the spots where the two holes are. Like a template.

Then I got back under the car and with one hand, slid the mount back into the divots using the original black dots as reference, but let the paper piece go over the top of the clutch housing. Then I just used a red sharpie in the paper's holes to make two more dots. Then I just drilled where the red dots are.

I don't remember if the mount's tongues go all the way into the divots or just part of the way - it was too sucky down there to be exacting on every measurement. As long as you're reasonably close, and the mount is reasonably level and the tongues go into the grooves a bit, it ought to be fine. If you drill the holes a bit bigger than 3mm you'll get some Y axis adjustibility. Plus you can bend the mount a bit this way or that if you have to.

I did the mount in steel because I figured I'd have to do some bending, but it never came to that.

Good luck. It fucking sucks laying down in there for extended periods.
 
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