Clutch No Worky!

[NoGasNoGo]

I just installed a new Spec stage 2 clutch, new slave, and Spulen bleeder block. Having trouble with not being able to shift unless the engine is running. Bled several times, vacuum and manual, but can't seem to get it working right. Any suggestions?

 

[ZuMBLe]

I just installed a new Spec stage 2 clutch, new slave, and Spulen bleeder block. Having trouble with not being able to shift unless the engine is running. Bled several times, vacuum and manual, but can't seem to get it working right. Any suggestions?

Did you reaslign the shifter cables and shifter? If not, you should do that also.

 

[NoGasNoGo]

Yes, shifter cables have been adjusted. Emailed Spec, the only possibility so far from them is they have seen 2014 clutches in 2015 GTIs. Anyone know what the difference between the two is? Would a 2015 clutch bolt up to a 2014 flywheel?

 

[NoGasNoGo]

I took it all back apart today and got the part number off the flywheel. It is the correct flywheel for a 2015. I don't see any issues with Install, no leaks... I realy hope I'm not SOL on this. $800 is alot of mony to burn.

 

[NoGasNoGo]

So I got it all put back together and still have the same problem. I am going to order a power bleeder, it acts like maybe it has air in it, but I dont see any when bleeding it. Anyone think this could be a clutch master cylinder problem? Or have similar isues?

 

[jay745]

Did you bench bleed the slave before installing it in the trans?

 

[NoGasNoGo]

I bench bled the first one. When I took it all back apart I replaced the slave again, but did not bench bleed it. I found several posts for and against bench bleeding, and since it didn't work when I bench bled it I decided to try not bench bleeding. I did use a syringe and fill it with brake fluid before hooking the lines up though.

 

[jay745]

Not sure what you read being against bench bleeding honestly. I install clutches all the time on gtis and always bench bleed it. If you don't bench bleed you'll be stuck there with a power bleeder for hours.

 

[NoGasNoGo]

What bleeding process have you had the most luck with? I used to be an ASE certified technician, but got out of it about 10 years ago. I have not messed with this type of slave cylinder, just the standard type mounted where you can bleed them easily with a vacuum bleeder. Anybody else use a SPEC clutch?

 

[jay745]

What bleeding process have you had the most luck with? I used to be an ASE certified technician, but got out of it about 10 years ago. I have not messed with this type of slave cylinder, just the standard type mounted where you can bleed them easily with a vacuum bleeder. Anybody else use a SPEC clutch?

I normally bench bleed it, install the trans and then 2 person bleed, one guy rapid pumps the clutch 10 times, holds it down to the floor while the other cracks the bleeder, pull the pedal up and repeat about 5 times. Gotta make sure you keep the brake reservoir absolutely topped off during this process because the clutch reservoir is behind the brake reservoir inside the chamber.

 

[NoGasNoGo]

That's pretty much what I have been doing without any luck. I guess I will continue to do it more tomorrow and see if it gets any better. I have read in other posts that the pressure bleeder is a must have to bleed the clutch, I take it that is not the case. Any other ideas of what could be causing this, or is air in the system really the only posibility?

 

[NoGasNoGo]

Spent several hours bleeding again today, have run a full liter of fluid through it with no further improvement. I wish I had a qualified shop nearby to take it to, but the nearest European shop is 80 miles away. Can anything else cause this, is it possible something in the DMF is busted? I have seen that there were problems with thrust bearings in the engine, but I dont think that would have failed with it sitting on Jack stands in the garrage.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Can you further explain what exactly is the problem?

“Having trouble with not being able to shift unless the engine is running.“

 

[NoGasNoGo]

I can shift easily and smoothly through all gears with the engine off. I can start the engine with it in gear and be able to use the selected gear. While the engine is running it is difficult to take it out of a gear and nearly impossible to shift into a gear. Just installed new SPEC stage 2 clutch with original DMF, replaced the throw out bearing twice now( both oe sachs), and replaced the bleeder block with one from spulen.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Thanks for the clarity.

So with the engine off and shifting through the gear that just means you’re not dealing with the shaft being misaligned and causing it to bind, it’s not at all a point of reference for the clutch, or TOB’s operations.

First question is when you say “nearly”impossible, and you saying it will still go into gear when the motor is spinning sometimes or are still saying not at all?

The fact that you already changed the TOBs it’s a good start that the chances of the TOB being faulty are minimal. To check that it’s not a master issue, disconnect the bleeder from the tob nipple and press the pedal - if you get a big mess, good chance the issue is not there.

And then it’s time to move on to the clutch’s pressure plate. In which I hate to say it but you need to drop the trans again to make sure that the TOB is even fully contacting the fingers and able to release them from the disc. So that means you need to measure the distance to make sure it’s even working between the 2 *attached images for reference.


Before any of that, can you show me a picture of the clutch disc you installed on the dmf first. I want to rule something out, lol.