Clunking sound in front end

[jmblur]

I’m having similar clunking issue in the front and I got my steering rack checked out and it’s all good. They told me the noise I’m hearing is brake pad shift since I’m still rocking the stock pads.

You can test this by dragging brakes while going over a bump that causes the issue. The brake friction will lock the pads in at the top of the calipers so they won't shift.

 

[neoupa2002]

What was your sound and how did they diagnose? Mine sounds like metal on metal, almost like im driving over a loose manhole cover

I got that sound when I snapped one of the front endlinks on my old Jetta. Mine is more of a creaky metallic sound.

 

[DatOneGuy]

Well they were none too happy that its modded i got a tech that was about 50 years old. They told me he is a 30 year master vw tech.
Mods that on on the car
tons of tasteful badgeskins
ecs flush wheel spacers with proper bolts
intergrated engineering intake v2
vibrant resonator on a custom 2.5" mandrel bent mid pipe with a vw tcr muffler
audi short shifter
diesel geek plastic thingy to remove slop
euro sport front strut brace
stage 1 high toruqe i.e stage 1 tune (didn't tell them that was on the car or in the car)

finally for the mods they claim are a direct result of my problem
south bend stage 2 daily endurance clutch and ltw fly wheel stainless steal line

I was at the dealership for the better part of 4 hours.

I had the clutch and fly wheel done at NEW GERMAN PERFORMANCE. A well known and well respected german shop. They claim they never pulled the subframe to do the clutch job. And since techs normally work on hours of work done via flat rate i tend to think they would infact do the job the fastest way possible I.E. not drop the subframe and then they would have to use new bolts and do alignment. So long story short the dealer i bought the car from and have taken it too a few times now is claiming the subframe is my issue. Which i suppose is possible the bolts can get loose i know that is a thing. But not at 30k or at least i wouldn't think so. And I'm far from modded to tell and back. Its still my only car so i have to mind that for now.

I'm dropping the car off on Monday for them to put new bolts in and torque the subframe down to spec. They claim they need it to be back to factory spec for them to diagnose the issue. I have to pay around 4 or 5 hundred for them to do this it is bs. The subframe has never been dropped and my car still drives straight as a arrow and ive never had an alignment either.

Are they likely just pulling a fast one on me? Should I just take it to another dealer? or just bypass the dealer all together and just take it back to new german performance?

 

[jimlloyd40]

Well they were none too happy that its modded i got a tech that was about 50 years old. They told me he is a 30 year master vw tech.
Mods that on on the car
tons of tasteful badgeskins
ecs flush wheel spacers with proper bolts
intergrated engineering intake v2
vibrant resonator on a custom 2.5" mandrel bent mid pipe with a vw tcr muffler
audi short shifter
diesel geek plastic thingy to remove slop
euro sport front strut brace
stage 1 high toruqe i.e stage 1 tune (didn't tell them that was on the car or in the car)

finally for the mods they claim are a direct result of my problem
south bend stage 2 daily endurance clutch and ltw fly wheel stainless steal line

I was at the dealership for the better part of 4 hours.

I had the clutch and fly wheel done at NEW GERMAN PERFORMANCE. A well known and well respected german shop. They claim they never pulled the subframe to do the clutch job. And since techs normally work on hours of work done via flat rate i tend to think they would infact do the job the fastest way possible I.E. not drop the subframe and then they would have to use new bolts and do alignment. So long story short the dealer i bought the car from and have taken it too a few times now is claiming the subframe is my issue. Which i suppose is possible the bolts can get loose i know that is a thing. But not at 30k or at least i wouldn't think so. And I'm far from modded to tell and back. Its still my only car so i have to mind that for now.

I'm dropping the car off on Monday for them to put new bolts in and torque the subframe down to spec. They claim they need it to be back to factory spec for them to diagnose the issue. I have to pay around 4 or 5 hundred for them to do this it is bs. The subframe has never been dropped and my car still drives straight as a arrow and ive never had an alignment either.

Are they likely just pulling a fast one on me? Should I just take it to another dealer? or just bypass the dealer all together and just take it back to new german performance?

What did New German Performance have to say about this?

 

[imthanick_a]

I got that sound when I snapped one of the front endlinks on my old Jetta. Mine is more of a creaky metallic sound.

I've got that as well as the manhole cover sound

 

[DatOneGuy]

What did New German Performance have to say about this?

I spoke to them a few times. Seemed to be wanting to help in any way possible. But i don't want to turn it into a he said she said between them. But come on logically why would the ngp tech pull the subframe if he doesnt have too! So i believe ngp and i think the dealer is just trying to pull a fast one since its modded. Which i guess i knew the risk but in no way shape or form could any of what I've done have effected the power steering rack. So on Monday i'm going to drop it off after work and the dealer is going to put new sub frame bolts in but im still not sure this will help. And of course they are charging me to change them out. But they've never been out so i fail to see the logic in it. But i suppose they could go bad???

 

[Terriquez88]

You can test this by dragging brakes while going over a bump that causes the issue. The brake friction will lock the pads in at the top of the calipers so they won't shift.

I actually only get this noise on start up int he morning when the car is cold and I’m getting out to got i work. When I’m driving I don’t here any noises

 

[DatOneGuy]

Update they ended up replacing all the subframe bolts and torqing them to spec and changing out the right strut mount. So it wasnt the rake despite me really thinking it was. They gripped about the mods but still ended up doing the work. Pleasantly surprised.

 

[jimlloyd40]

Update they ended up replacing all the subframe bolts and torqing them to spec and changing out the right strut mount. So it wasnt the rake despite me really thinking it was. They gripped about the mods but still ended up doing the work. Pleasantly surprised.

I would tell New German Performance about what fixed it.

 

[DatOneGuy]

Yea? I'm kinda wondering if they did infact take the subframe bolts out and reuse them?

 

[Dcninja24]

Can you guys confirm if this was the same issue you were having? I have not been able to figure this out and I’ve been having the same loud clunking popping sound

 

[DatOneGuy]

i want to say 99% yes. tech told me the right side is normally the one that goes bad. The mounts are actually super cheap 52$ just the job is the bitch. If your under warrenty id try that first. But most likely strut mounts.

 

[Dcninja24]

i want to say 99% yes. tech told me the right side is normally the one that goes bad. The mounts are actually super cheap 52$ just the job is the bitch. If your under warrenty id try that first. But most likely strut mounts.

Definitely gonna be something I look into and thank you for the reply. Truly means a lot! I’m gonna look more into it and just buy the parts and get it fixed. The sound is horrendous and unbearable!

 

[ziplex]

I've got that as well as the manhole cover sound

Did you ever figure out the manhole cover sound? I have the same problem and sounds exactly the same.

 

[mrmatto]

Manhole cover sound = rolling logs sound? Comes and goes? That’s a symptom of the stock shocks, IIRC. Nothing fixes it except a different brand of shocks/struts.