Cannot get shifter aligned

[snobrdrdan]

such a tight fit that once it warms up and expands it's an even tighter fit.

 

[Nineeightyone]

I've just ordered the OEM side to side to test this!

I plan on ordering an ECS aftermarket bleeder block and upgraded clutch line, as I think this photo indicates I have a leak somewhere...
(From what I can see the fluid in reservoir is below the min line)
View attachment 276800



Happened some time after the first side to side install, so my assumption was the torque solutions side to side caused the issue. The DG piece fits very well into my stock front to back shifter. From an alignment perspective, it feels fine on a non-warmed up car.
It's tough, I get excited about potential solutions based on others' suggestions and similar situations.

• It could be my mounts (I will be installing dogbone insert), that's now pretty unlikely to fix it
• It could be my side to side shifter (which appears perfect after alignment), will be reinstalling stock side to side to decide if this is the issue
• It could be my clutch line having air in it, which would be fixed after a bleeding
• It could be my clutch line having a leak, which would potentially be fixed after an install of a new line and bleeder block
• It could be my slave cylinder causing issues, which I won't be able to know without getting my transmission dropped, but I've read issues on early version of my clutch kit having TOB/slave cylinder issues (kit is DKM twin disc)

I'm starting with the easy stuff I can try to solve/troubleshoot myself.

I just ran through my gears on my cold and not-started car and everything felt great with the clutch depressed... lol

Yep, it's hard because we tend to get into these states where something doesn't work and we just want it to work again -- I'm pretty guilty of it, at least. I think you've got the right idea though to try the stuff that's easy/cheap. I still think the issue is related to the slider (OR possibly the little bushing sleeve things that the shifter pins sit on, mine were super dirty and after a quick cleaning with a shop rag they improved significantly), but you won't know until you warm up the car and try. I'd say maybe do one or two things and get the car warm to try IF it's your daily driver, otherwise if you've got another car and this one doesn't need to be driven you can be a little more methodical and try one thing at a time.

 

[Dr Dad]

Hi all,

Thanks for the help so far. About to install a new bleeder block and clutch line, then bleed the clutch, but noticed a few things and would like a bit of feedback on if they are normal or not.

First is the bleeder block attaching to the slave cylinder seems very wiggly. Don't know if this is normal, but just wanted to check. Connection feel sturdy.
Second is the shifter cables' rubber looking fins/splines. I assume this is normal, but not sure. Just looks odd and like they shouldn't be past that heat shield.
Last is this connection from the clutch fluid reservoir to the cabin. Looks a bit gunky and like it may have a spot for some sort of pin, and I could manipulate it easily with my hand. Reservoir itself is plenty full.

Thanks for any responses!
And if anyone has a tips for bleeding the clutch, let me know. I have a power bleeder, but for some reason I'm nervous to bleed everything myself.

 

[Treadup]

The slave cylinder has a plastic nipple so there’s some give where the block/line attach. Bleeding the clutch line is easier than bleeding brakes.

Have you thought of going back to stock or maybe changing vendors all together. I’m very happy with my diesel geek sigma six and have had it for close to two years now.

 

[Dr Dad]

The slave cylinder has a plastic nipple so there’s some give where the block/line attach. Bleeding the clutch line is easier than bleeding brakes.

Have you thought of going back to stock or maybe changing vendors all together. I’m very happy with my diesel geek sigma six and have had it for close to two years now.

Thanks for the confirmation! Bleeding the clutch was quite easy. "Old" fluid was also extremely clean, which was good to see.

I have the DG side to side piece and frankly love it over the stock and torque solutions piece.

Seems I've got everything sorted out now though. Easiest explanation was bleeding the clutch fixed it, but I made a lot of changes before testing.

 

[Dr Dad]

Hopefully the final update!

Finished installing several pieces this week and just took the car out for a 40 minute test drive and everything seems to be working perfectly.
List of changes I made since last driving:
1. Installed BFI Stage 1 dogbone insert
2. Installed ECS bleeder block and SS clutch line
3. Removed swirl valve
4. Bled clutch with power bleeder

Overall were some very easy installs.
Most difficult aspect was the dogbone insert, since my transmission got out of alignment with the dogbone and I couldn't get the bolt to thread. Tried adjusting my position on the ramps to no avail. Ended up having to simply push the transmission into place as each adjustment on the ramps seemed to make it worse (good to be able to OHP 245lbs when it comes to heaving transmissions lol).
Bleeder block and clutch line install were super easy, most difficult aspect was removing the swirl valve from the metal stock line, but pushing the retaining pin from the back was the trick. A pick set is a must have for installing these pieces.
Bleeding the clutch was quiet easy, especially with the power bleeder. I was definitely unnecessarily concerned about it.

Clutch feels great and shifts feel great (got the one finger shifts back woo). I am overall very pleased with the upgrades, though the most likely solution to my actual issue was simply bleeding the clutch.

Edit: A few more long drives and everything remains feeling perfect. Installed my BFI shift knob to celebrate and love it.