Burger Tuning JB4 Golf 1.8TSI MQB specific information thread

[ZuMBLe]

Let me show you where you attacked me first in case you forgot. The fact that you forgot so quickly indicates some sort of mental issue on your end.

 

[ZuMBLe]

Let's get back to our regularly scheduled hand holding sessions about how to simply work a JB4. Thanks.

 

[ZuMBLe]

I didn't TELL anyone that at all, nobody even asked I was relating it in my observation and what I was told and had no problem with your correction, genius. So again, don't bother replying to me and I won't bother replying to you, have fun with this dead-end thread you caused!

As I said.. let's continue on with this thread. Don't blame me for derailing. I've been here way longer than you. You obviously have a mental issue, because again, you are shifting blame when you're the one causing the problem. I hope you have me on ignore though.

Everyone else:
This is a JB4 help thread. Keep your long personal stories out of it. Use Datazap. Lots of people don't jump in to help anymore because they don't have time to read long stories and to look through your screenshot "logs" or load your CSVs. The information in the beginning of the thread has not been updated in a long time, please read it to get a bit familiar, but read more recent posts. We don't need old information (sometimes dangerous information) being repeated in the end of this thread.

 

[ZuMBLe]

Dude, I've always used datazap, more proof you can't even keep me straight with other people... But yes, let's continue on and try to make this productive again, but yes, I'll share as much details as I freaking feel like it that I feel is appropriate, this isn't Twitter with a character limit and details/nuance is important for the big picture often times... And I've read every page on here, I know quite a bit, buddy, just because I said no OBD means a whopping +2 instead of 0 doesn't make you God over me. So let's drop it now, fresh slate, and you'll see that my posts are extremely relevant and I'm not petty and judgmental.

TLDR.. but I said everyone else. This is short so I hope you read this. Carry on. Consider you may have an issue. Thanks.

 

[jimlloyd40]

Dude, I've *always* used datazap, more proof you can't even keep me straight with other people... But yes, let's continue on and try to make this productive again, but yes, I'll share as much details as I freaking feel like it that I feel is appropriate, this isn't Twitter with a character limit and details/nuance is important for the big picture often times... And I've read every page on here, I know quite a bit, buddy, just because I said no OBD means a whopping +2 instead of 0 doesn't make you God over me. So let's drop it now, fresh slate, and you'll see that my posts are extremely relevant and I'm not petty and judgmental.

TLDR.. but I said everyone else. This is short so I hope you read this. Carry on. Consider you may have an issue. Thanks.

I've given likes to both you guys and have learned from each of you but @danbfree has offered the proverbial olive branch so it would be nice to see you work together on this and drop the animosity and work to get a solution. I would like to learn something here too.

 

[danbfree]

OK, so hopefully here is a good one to move on with and is concise without too much filler BS...

Installed IS20 w/catted DP week and a half ago and have tried pump and ethanol blend. Here is my target vs. actual boost with pump and a ~E25 mix. I didn't realize I had a P0033 for boost management that could mean bad WGA voltage, bad DV or simply leaks, but now with the ~E25 blend and requesting more boost, I've now added a P02299 underboost to the mix...

Now, the IS20 came of an A3, so I don't know if they use a different WGA voltage spec or perhaps it's DV is shot from sitting in a hot garage all summer but I'm gonna swap the DV off my IS12 in tomorrow or Monday on my days off. Any other suggestions are welcome!

Keep in mind I trim 2 runs from back to back into one chart for more data/consistency. You can see my target vs actual has dips and is not even close with ~E25, hence the the underboost I'm sure...

Trims/AFR's look good as well as nice ignition advance with no zero corrections, so fuel is definitely good for what I'm asking of it, well, at the boost it is able to provide anyway, that could change if I was hitting the ~3psi higher I'm requesting. I did *finally* touch 20psi total, but this is also below freezing so maybe JB4 isn't tricking the torque target enough for the cold? But still those turbo codes are no bueno, I need to get that resolved before getting my Unitronic tune, while someone on FB suggested getting a real tune and setting my JB4 to Map 0 and that might even fix that? LOL

Pump premium ~92.5 octane: https://datazap.me/u/danbfree/map6-31-degrees-is20-winter-92-fuel?log=0&data=1-3-4

With ~E25 mix: https://datazap.me/u/danbfree/3rd-attempt?log=0&data=1-3-4

 

[jimlloyd40]

OK, so hopefully here is a good one to move on with... Installed IS20 w/catted DP week and a half ago. Jim knows I'm having issues with sudden power loss (with any fuel) that I'm still trying to figure out, but here is my target vs. actual boost with pump and a ~E25 mix. I didn't realize I had a P0033 for boost management that could mean bad WGA voltage, bad DV or simply leaks, but now with the ~E25 blend and requesting more boost, I've now added a P02299 underboost to the mix... Now, the IS20 came of an A3, so I don't know if they use a different WGA voltage spec or perhaps it's DV is shot from sitting in a hot garage all summer but I'm gonna swap the DV off my IS12 in tomorrow or Monday on my days off. Any other suggestions are welcome! Keep in mind I trim 2 runs from back to back into one chart for more data/consistency. You can see my target vs actual has dips and is not even close with ~E25, hence the the underboost I'm sure... anyone else thinks I should start with something other than DV swap to try to fix? Trims/AFR's look good as well as nice ignition advance with no zero corrections, so fuel is definitely good for what I'm asking of it.

Pump premium ~92.5 octane: https://datazap.me/u/danbfree/map6-31-degrees-is20-winter-92-fuel?log=0&data=1-3-4

With ~E25 mix: https://datazap.me/u/danbfree/3rd-attempt?log=0&data=1-3-4

I'm in agreement with starting with the DV swap but I would also check the WG voltage.

 

[ZuMBLe]

I've given likes to both you guys and have learned from each of you but @danbfree has offered the proverbial olive branch so it would be nice to see you work together on this and drop the animosity and work to get a solution. I would like to learn something here too.

We kissed and made up.

 

[ZuMBLe]

OK, so hopefully here is a good one to move on with and is concise without too much filler BS...

Installed IS20 w/catted DP week and a half ago and have tried pump and ethanol blend. Here is my target vs. actual boost with pump and a ~E25 mix. I didn't realize I had a P0033 for boost management that could mean bad WGA voltage, bad DV or simply leaks, but now with the ~E25 blend and requesting more boost, I've now added a P02299 underboost to the mix...

Now, the IS20 came of an A3, so I don't know if they use a different WGA voltage spec or perhaps it's DV is shot from sitting in a hot garage all summer but I'm gonna swap the DV off my IS12 in tomorrow or Monday on my days off. Any other suggestions are welcome!

Keep in mind I trim 2 runs from back to back into one chart for more data/consistency. You can see my target vs actual has dips and is not even close with ~E25, hence the the underboost I'm sure...

Trims/AFR's look good as well as nice ignition advance with no zero corrections, so fuel is definitely good for what I'm asking of it, well, at the boost it is able to provide anyway, that could change if I was hitting the ~3psi higher I'm requesting. I did *finally* touch 20psi total, but this is also below freezing so maybe JB4 isn't tricking the torque target enough for the cold? But still those turbo codes are no bueno, I need to get that resolved before getting my Unitronic tune, while someone on FB suggested getting a real tune and setting my JB4 to Map 0 and that might even fix that? LOL

Pump premium ~92.5 octane: https://datazap.me/u/danbfree/map6-31-degrees-is20-winter-92-fuel?log=0&data=1-3-4

With ~E25 mix: https://datazap.me/u/danbfree/3rd-attempt?log=0&data=1-3-4

The codes you're seeing are definitely not normal, there are quite a few 1.8s with IS20s and JB4 only and don't end up with all those codes. Definitely check the wastegate/WG voltage/DV. Sucks the JB4 can't log the wastegate values. The IS12 and IS20 use the same WGA so the voltage setting should be the same. Same turbine housing too.

What was the ambient temp? Do you have an IC? Your IATs went up 14 degrees with boost tapering hard and what I asusme is freezing ambient temps. The JB4 only reads as low as 32F, so your IATs could have been lower. Either way, that's a pretty hefty jump when ambient is really cold. I wonder if you actually have a boost leak. Can't hurt to check all the boost hoses/pipes while you're checking the DV and WG.

 

[danbfree]

The codes you're seeing are definitely not normal, there are quite a few 1.8s with IS20s and JB4 only and don't end up with all those codes. Definitely check the wastegate/WG voltage/DV. Sucks the JB4 can't log the wastegate values. The IS12 and IS20 use the same WGA so the voltage setting should be the same. Same turbine housing too.

What was the ambient temp? Do you have an IC? Your IATs went up 14 degrees with boost tapering hard and what I asusme is freezing ambient temps. The JB4 only reads as low as 32F, so your IATs could have been lower. Either way, that's a pretty hefty jump when ambient is really cold. I wonder if you actually have a boost leak. Can't hurt to check all the boost hoses/pipes while you're checking the DV and WG.

Yeah, I noticed that climb in IAT's too, it was about 27F but nice and dry roads, etc, but an IC upgrade is 100% coming by summer. I don't dare run flash tuned without it in the summer heat, that likely 20 degree climb would prob be 50 in the summer! I just hate to have to pay almost a grand for a decent one that fits well and since I have forward collision warning I can't do a twin... sigh..

So yeah, I am not too versed on checking the WGA but I know there are informational vids out there... I'll start with the easy stuff, swapping DV and checking hoses for leaks and going from there... I mean, you can tell the car is pulling decently, especially on pump fuel it's almost fine, but how far off it is from hitting target once calling for 22-23psi with ethanol is just bad news but is also helping me catch a problem earlier I suppose.

 

[danbfree]

Within efficiency range, boost is boost. It's not really true that a larger turbo makes more power at the same boost unless the smaller turbo is running outside its efficiency range.

And just to clarify, I know what you mean... Even with torque targeting, the bigger volume and efficiency of the IS20 is hitting stock torque targets at 1.5psi less than when using an IS12, that's all I meant in relation to turbo size and how it actually applies here. I didn't need to go off the deep end of "all things equal and no torque target to limit it", all that matters is that without the OBD plugged in I was simply running 100% stock tune and torque targets, and hitting that slightly quicker from DP flow and at slightly lower PSI with a slightly bigger turbo. I hope that helps others without confusion.

 

[ZuMBLe]

I never ran my IS20 on a stock tune, but I *think* you'll find most 1.8s with JB4 only run in to this ceiling. I'm pretty sure if you search your end values are pretty typical of JB4 only IS20 cars. That tells me it's likely a software issue (likely wastegate tables) in the ECU preventing more boost. The WG is a PITA to swap while on the car. Adjusting the WG is not easy either but can be done with the car on ramps. Plenty of videos. You're hitting "typical" targets. I'm just concerned about your codes what seems to be a pretty quick rise in IATs for the really cold ambient. That usually means boost leak.

 

[danbfree]

I never ran my IS20 on a stock tune, but I *think* you'll find most 1.8s with JB4 only run in to this ceiling. I'm pretty sure if you search your end values are pretty typical of JB4 only IS20 cars. That tells me it's likely a software issue (likely wastegate tables) in the ECU preventing more boost. The WG is a PITA to swap while on the car. Adjusting the WG is not easy either but can be done with the car on ramps. Plenty of videos. You're hitting "typical" targets. I'm just concerned about your codes what seems to be a pretty quick rise in IATs for the really cold ambient. That usually means boost leak.

OK, this is making more and more sense, thanks for taking the time to talk me thru it... So, with a boost leak, I'm not getting good flow thru what there is of the shitty stock IC, so that is why it causing both underboost and fast climbing IAT's, that sounds very, very likely now... I did have a turbo discharge pipe added after the IS20 and I think I noticed less "pull" almost immediately after that... So, I'll start with the hoses/piping first then, wouldn't be surprised to see something not clamped properly.

 

[ZuMBLe]

OK, this is making more and more sense, thanks for taking the time to talk me thru it... So, with a boost leak, I'm not getting good flow thru what there is of the shitty stock IC, so that is why it causing both underboost and fast climbing IAT's, that sounds very, very likely now... I did have a turbo discharge pipe added after the IS20 and I think I noticed less "pull" almost immediately after that... So, I'll start with the hoses/piping first then, wouldn't be surprised to see something not clamped properly.

Probably less flow at lower RPMs while the turbo is trying to spool, and then the turbo is spinning the shit out of itself to pressurize the intake manifold to targets which generates lots of heat.

Well with the change of a discharge pipe, and noticing "less pull" after makes it even more likely you have a boost leak. Now you know which side to start with, but check all the boost hoses.

 

[danbfree]

Probably less flow at lower RPMs while the turbo is trying to spool, and then the turbo is spinning the shit out of itself to pressurize the intake manifold to targets which generates lots of heat.

Well with the change of a discharge pipe, and noticing "less pull" after makes it even more likely you have a boost leak. Now you know which side to start with, but check all the boost hoses.

100% this, when there is a leak the turbo tries harder and harder to make that boost but can't so it gets overworked, IAT's climb like crazy and ends up throwing an underboost code... I'm going to go ahead and forego my overnight graveyard shift test hits tonight and start looking for leaks on my day off tomorrow... Thanks again!