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Burger Tuning JB4 Golf 1.8TSI MQB specific information thread

George Smooth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
South Africa
We would like to introduce users to our latest offering.
The unit is called a JB4 which is the name of our most advanced circuit board with CANbus capability. It has been tried and tested over many BMW models and it is time for the evolution to start for the VW market.











Complete JB4 Beta units are available at the introductory price of $429 here: http://www.burgertuning.com/vw_volkswagen_Group1_JB1_tuner.html


Upgrade units for JB1 users are available to at this link, both revision 1 and 2 units can be upgraded: http://www.burgertuning.com/vw_audi_eA888_JB4_upgrade_kit.html


The unit ships with a base setting in map 1 that increases the boost by +4.0psi over stock that is safe to be used with 91US octane and 95 Ron and up. The typical power gains on this setting are 35whp and 40ft lb. Higher power levels are achievable using the various maps as seen lower down.


Install instructions:
Install instructions can be found here: http://www.burgertuning.com/instructions/VW_JB4_install.pdf


JB1 to JB4 update instructions can be found here: http://www.burgertuning.com/instructions/JB1_to_JB4_upgrade_procedure.pdf
The upgrade process is explained on this link: http://www.burgertuning.com/vw_audi_eA888_JB4_upgrade_kit.html


Connectivity:
To connect to the unit to make changes or do logs you have two options:

  1. Laptop connection using our BMS Data Cable via free Windows and Mac software
  2. Via Bluetooth using our JB4 Connect kit that is IOS and Android compatible. On some Android devices users have has success connecting using our Data Cable. The App for the handset has a separate charge and can be found in the Google play store or App store as JB4 Connect.
JB4 Connect kit link here: http://burgertuning.com/bluetooth_jb4_connect_kit.html





User interface software:
For users that have opted to purchase the optional BMS Data Cable you will need to download and install the Windows user interface at this link http://www.n54tech.com/flash_files/jb4_interface.zip
There is a 3rd Party Developed Mac interface that can also be used, download link can be found here at bottom of post 1 http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21742
Watch this video which has a walk through of the process and also the steps to change maps and tuning settings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjQjMWBVve4



Typical gains:

The unit ships with a base setting in map 1 that increases the boost by +4.5psi over stock that is safe to be used with 91US octane and 95 Euro. The typical power gains on this setting are 35whp and 40ft lb. With higher octane accompanied with bolt ons and octane we have seen gains of 85whp and 70ft lb in Map 6. All of this whilst keeping the engines stock fail safes in place.

For JB1 users that are upgrading on Map 1 the unit makes the same power with .8psi less boost.
Map 2 is set more aggressively and 40whp and 55ft lb can be expected as a minimum.
The largest gain is felt at high rpm. Torque can be increased though in map 6 to Stage 2 flash levels if users do not have a turbo longevity concern.


Map selection:
In order to change the map in the picture below under the logging tab you can pick the required map. Under status the unit must show connected. This is done by clicking file and selecting connect.



Upon shipping the following maps are active:


Map 0: Stock with complete pass through i.e. the JB4 does nothing


Map 1: Tuned map with a average of 4.0psi over stock. This is the shipped map and is compatible for both 91 and 93 and can be used with cars on hardware.

Map 2: This map is a more aggressive map. Peak boost add is 5.6psi over stock and the map is good for cars running 98Ron and above.

Map 4: This is a stock map but with JB4 logging ability. It is also the starter map for cars that are running flash tunes and are stacking the JB4. It will give the ability to log the car via the JB4. This is also the safety map, so in any circumstance the JB4 detects a unsafe condition regardless of map it will default to this map. This includes knock detection, lean AFR or the boost safety value being triggered due to lack of boost control.

Map 6: User adjustable boost map. The map comes preset with a 5.0psi over stock peak and is ready to use on any car running 93 octane. The preset map is also suitable for manual cars with clutch longevity in mind.
The mapping can be done in two manners. If the value at 1500 is kept below 10 it will work as a boost adder map. If the value at 1500 is higher than 10 it will work as a absolute map. This means actual total boost targets will need to be entered.


Map 8: Map three allows the JB4 to be the methanol controller working as a fail safe cutting boost if lack of meth flow is detected. You will require a Coolingmist FSB to get this working.

User Adjustment page:

Below is a outline of settings that can be changed in the User adjustment page:

Map 6 (blue outline): as explained above

AFR Bias (orange outline): This value is to be set across the range at 100. It is the parameter which adjust the AFR ratio. Unless otherwise advised by us its should be left alone. For cars using the JB4 over a flash tune this value will start of at 0 across the rpm range and working on logs we will advise the end user on the settings.

Boost safety (green outline): This value is a boost ceiling that user will set. It is recommended the value of this is 2psi over peak tuned map. i.e. if you hitting 24psi set this at 26psi. If for whatever reason the car overboost it will default straight to map 4 returning the car to the stock tune.

Fuel Open Loop (purple outline): This value is what controls the rail pressure to keep fuel trims in check. It is used to avoid having the ECU compensate fuel for the unseen boost. The unit ships with a 40 value. Upon logging some users with hardware may need to raise this value. The ceiling on most cars is 60. For users that are stacking the JB4 over a flash tune this value will be set to 0 initially and via logs we will see if it needs to be raised to compensate for the small boost add.

Max boost add (pink outline): These values represent the maximum boost allowed in each gear with the minimum value being the stock tunes value. If you are using boost add values in map 6 you will add the amount of add you want max. i.e. If your high rpm values are set at 5.5 and you do not want any boost in first you will set the value to .1. If you want only 2psi add over stock you will set it to 2. This is the methodology you will use if you running the JB4 over a flash tune as well. Future firmware updates will be able to remove boost even below the stock request.
For users that are entering absolute values and say your peak is 24psi, you will enter the lowest you want allowed. Stock is around 17psi so you can do first for stock, 19 for second and so forth.



Code and Fault reading: At first release the unit will only be able to read faults in Hex Code and clear them. The next firmware update will bring the translation of the code into the user interface as well as activate the autoclear feature for users with DP’s.
For now use E Series N54 in the setting page:



Logging:

The JB4 now has full logging ability and all the parameters on the logging page are logged. The only three parameters to be added in the next firmware update is the oil temp, water temp and transmission temp.
Ign 1 represent overall timing with Ign 2-5 timing adaption and the rest are self explanatory. IAT is the value in F x10.

See post 2.




FAQ:
Can I run the JB4 with another device connected to the CANbus?
No, any other device connected to the OBD port creates latency on the CANbus. The CANbus was designed to allow one device at a time and further data being pulled may create safety issues on the network as well as bad signal to the JB4
Will BMS release cluster display and steering wheel map switching?
At this stage cluster hijack has proven to be cost prohibitive due to the Gateway system used by VW. We are looking at getting cheaper solutions that may be affordable. Steering wheel map switching or in car map switching is something being worked on and will come in a future firmware update.
What future features will the JB4 have?
Currently we working on the code reading ability which will come as the first firmware update. Next in line is an Autotune map. Once we have gathered enough data we will be able to create a dynamic map that will self adjust on the fly maximizing performance regardless of conditions, mods and octane used.
Why is the JB4 released as Beta?
When we release units they stay in Beta for quite a while. Any updates done to the unit are firmware related so they get uploaded using the BMS Data Cable.
The JB1 stayed in Beta for a year with only one update when we opened map 6 use.
The JB4 will be ever evolving as we keep adding features to it relative to customer requests.
Will the JB4 remove my speed limiter?
At this point in time, no. The speed limiter affects many safety parameters and until we are certain there are no ill effects on this we will not have speed limiter removal available. The speed limit exceeded is also a trigger point logged in the ECU which may cause issues down the line for any form of claim.
Can launch control be added for a manual car?
No, at this stage this requires changes in the ECU structure which the JB4 does not access or tamper with. We have had success with this on other brands with add on hardware so its something we to intend down the line.
Can the JB4 support larger turbos?
At this stage on the 1.8T we can support the IS20 and on the GTI the IS38. On the R any larger frame turbo will require a flash of some sort.
How do I know if I can stack the JB4 over my flash tune and what is the process?
This varies on what the flash tune is requesting from the car and if there is room for improvement. If more hardware is used, higher octane or ethanol or meth has been added chances are there is a gain to be had. On stack tuned cars we work one on one with clients so we can understand the trend and get a better idea for the community where gains can be had.
Do I need a professional to custom tune my car?
BMS is renowned for its customer service and we can assist any customer with setting his car up to optimize performance. A large online community exists as well where users share their findings. The device works in such a way that it is easy for first time enthusiasts to get a taste of self tuning.
Why does the JB4 read my Vin number and is it Vin locked?
The Vin is read for certain mapping purposes. The unit is not locked to the car which would be unethical and can be resold.
What does the JB4 do via the OBD port?
The JB4 only uses this port for engine data optimizing the mapping. This works on the same principle as one would be logging the car using a VCDS tool. The connection is required for the JB4 to run effectively. Once the OBD plug is removed the JB4 will default to a 3psi over stock safety map.
 

George Smooth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
South Africa
Logging and some stacking information.

The JB4 has full logging capability of most of the parameters we need to optimize the tune.

In order to log the steps are simple:

JB4 must be connected to log. A normal USB extender cable will work to get the wire into the car. This must be connected though to our BMS Data Cable. 3rd and 4th gear logs are preferable and if you plan on send them to me at george@burgertuning.com for analysis please do not send 15minutes of driving.

Go to Data Logging next to File at the top, press Start, do the log then press and display. Do your run then press Stop and Display when you are safely stopped. Then go Export and Export log and save the file to your pc. This file can be reopened for viewing by going Data Logging then open log.

It is suggested once you get a baseline log to familiarize yourself with what you can click to see which value. The log is best to be viewed in the JB4 user interface.
Below is a typical JB4 only log that I have chosen that is a good example to explain everything as a lot of interesting things are happening. The car was run over and over 0-150mph prior to this log, its full bolt on with our meth kit.



I will start explaining each line starting from the top.

Pedal: This redline that is pegged against the top show where your pedal position is. In some logging tools available by other tuners they use this as the throttle so people are accustomed to seeing it full.

Throttle position (orange): The ECU uses throttle position to assist with torque targeting. It is the torque targeting that creates final boost hence us seeing boost level going up in summer months. This results in a floating throttle which is normal to a point. We do not want to see this value go down lower than 4000 which represents 40%. Sudden spike straight down are also a problem that that is usually accompanied with the overboost fault.

Meth (dark green line going all over the place): For guys running our FSB meth system this line represents meth flow. It should be pegged at the top of the graph in a straight line if flow is sufficient. This car has a meth flow issue which is also evident in the IAT values further down.

RPM (green line): It is interesting to keep a eye on the rpm signal. Good to see what wheel spin looks like or if you suspect clutch slip it will create curves instead of being straight.

Trims (light blue): For scaling purposes this is a JB4 calculated value using the OEM trim values and taking into account what we doing to the AFR bias. What we want to do in terms of trims is avoid going higher than 40-45%. If the car reaches this point take a note at what your AFR ratio is doing if its taking a dive you are reaching a fueling ceiling. This will only happen if you use too high a amount of E85 on your mix or you are running too high a boost level. At certain point adding boost does not add power so lower the boost in this case. The fuel is sufficient to max the turbo power wise both for a R and a GTI. If the car is run like this for a sustained run the ECU will throw a lean code Sensor 1 Bank 1 and the JB4 will default to map 4.
You JB4 should ship with a fuel open loop value of 40. The maximum you can go is 60. Increasing the value will lower trim levels by increasing rail pressure. Dropping the value will increase trims values.

Boost (Blue line): This is actual boost

Target (Pink line): This is the boost target requested in the map 6 column. In this case we targeting actual boost values. If you use Map 6 as a boost additive by adding the values you want over the ECU boost the line will be found at the bottom of the graph as shown on the Stacked log below.

ECU PSI (Black): This is the boost value the ECU is requesting and seeing.

AFR (Mustard): Here we have the AFR value. If you have opted not to run the AFR wire to the lambda make sure your Fuel Bias values next to map 6 chart are all set to 0. The JB4 uses a calculation of the Fuel Bias Values and ECU AFR to work out the true value of AFR. You may see spikes in this value on the gearchange which is a calculation delay bug on the JB4 firmware we sorting out so do not be alarmed with this.

On this specific log it is interesting to note that in this log the AFR in 4th gear ranges from 13.2-12.7 which is a happy place for a Direct injection car. Switching to fifth we see the AFR drop to 11.3. It is rather rare for this to happen but I am glad we got it. The ECU has two mechanisms that are built into AFR functionality. One is a EGT (exhaust gas temperature) protection mechanism that dumps fuel when the EGT's get too high and the other is a full boost timer which is triggered if the car has sustained full throttle runs and it also dumps fuel. I think in this case the second one occurred.

IAT (fine turquoise line)
Overall Timing (thin redline) IGN1 on logging page
Timing adaption (different colours but timing adaption event circled in orange) IGN 2, 3, 4, 5 represent cylinder 1, 2, 3, 4

The IAT is in Fahrenheit and to get correct value multiply by 10. So if it show a value of 10 its 100F.
On this log the IAT is sitting close to 100F across the rpm range. Ambients where around 100F as well and the meth not working well is not improving it.

What we need to look at in the IAT is a relationship between overall timing and timing adaption. In general the lower the IAT the more timing the car will run. So if you see your timing is lower than usual compare the IAT's of the previous runs to see if its boost or IAT affecting it. As you increase boost you will see the timing chart start dropping as well. In the mid range it is normal for you not to see any timing but at high rpm it has to pick up. This car in the log has got relatively good timing going up to 10 degrees at peak rpm where boost is running at 20psi. If we raise the boost at peak to 22psi we might see a 5 degree drop of timing and we loose any power gains from the boost increase. Regardless in terms of targeting we do not suggest values higher than 18psi at peak rpm. Anything higher in our findings and the timing offset costs far more than the power gained in boost. From 16-18psi at redline we only seeing a average of 4-5whp so its up to the end user to decide how hard he want to push the turbo. We will obviously find good trends from users over time in this regard as well.
On the log I have circled a timing adaption event in 5th gear. There is a lot of discussion about timing adaption on the Simos ECU and it is a general norm to allow up to -4 degrees. On our side we would prefer it to be kept to a minimum of -2 or less or none at all. The timing adaption can work as a function of torque targeting. In this case in orange it pulled -1.2 degrees in cylinder 1. Looking immediately at the previous gear we can see timing was not affected so this is not a issue. For safety purposes we have logged knock sensor values vs timing pull and in most cases there is no relationship.

Gear: The gear will show you which gear you are in. Works for manual and DSG and Auto. It is nice to look back at it because sometimes its hard to remember what occurred when. Also lets us see on our side when logs are sent if we looking at possible wheel spin or a issue.

Stacking the JB4 over a flash tune:

All the above will apply. With the JB4 connected you will start with a clean slate and log the car in map 4 which is a pass though map with logging capability. This will give you a idea of the state of your tune and show you how it is set and what it is doing.

On the user adjustment page you going to want to make the settings as below:



You will notice the boost safety is set to 30psi. Once you know your final peak boost adjust this value to 2psi over the peak so you can still have the safety feature for boost over run.

The same will apply in terms of what you are looking for in the logs. One variance is that the throttle position will stay mostly open due to the torque values in the tune being higher.

Start adding boost in single digits after your peak boost for starters and see how the car is handling it and what the affects are of the added boost in timing.
Keep a eye on the fuel trims and adjust accordingly in denomination of 5 in the fuel open loop setting
You can have a look at AFR values but they rarely move with stock turbos.
Look at the timing pull values vs overall timing. In some cases if timing pull is present you can start adding the fuel bias at those rpm in values of 5. This will en richen the AFR and in some cases the richer fueling can cool the cylinder enough to increase timing.

Be sure to work with me if you going for large increases or you trying to achieve maximum boost values.

Below is typical log. The car is a GTI APR Stage 2+ IS38 running our meth kit.
In this case you will see the pink target line at the bottom which represents boost add. In this case it is set at 1.8psi over stock. Trims have also been brought down the a fuel open loop setting of 20. This actually also improved the AFR curve in the process.



To control the boost per gear in the case of stacking you will need to add the maximum add you want to allow per gear.

So if you want no added boost in 1st use .1 because 0 disables the feature.
 

4MotionWagen

Ready to race!
Location
Michigan
GSW 4motion 1.8 on map2

Here is a log through 3rd gear on map2. I don't know where these guys go to run out 4th. lol This is a DSG car. I would like to go with map6 and turn this thing up. Any suggestions where to start from anyone that has this down?
 

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TwinDad

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Fort Lee, NJ
Thanks George. I'll post up some logs tomorrow. I've been playing around with map 6. Have it pulling about 2.5 degrees in a couple of spots. It seems like the 1.8 will get to around 16.5 degrees total timing though. I'm used to seeing 10 on the gti logs. I had it up to 16psi on target, but had to taper off a little more past 4500. 16psi above that starts pulling the timing on a couple of cylinders
 

George Smooth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
South Africa
Thanks George. I'll post up some logs tomorrow. I've been playing around with map 6. Have it pulling about 2.5 degrees in a couple of spots. It seems like the 1.8 will get to around 16.5 degrees total timing though. I'm used to seeing 10 on the gti logs. I had it up to 16psi on target, but had to taper off a little more past 4500. 16psi above that starts pulling the timing on a couple of cylinders
There will be timing adaption here and there, the main thing is it must not create a drop in overall timing.
 
Greetings and salutations. I apologize if this isn't the best place for this but since it's an informational thread and I am seeking information, perhaps it is correct.

Looking to pick up a Golf 1.8 TSI auto in 6 months. Had 2 GTI's in the past, 06 APR Stage 2+, and a 12 APR Stage 2. Liked the cars well enough but moved in different directions. Got a 16 Triumph Street Triple R for fun so not looking to heavily mod, but I'm looking for a commuter. I'm seeking a plug and play simple solution to just give the Golf a bit more punch, and still have the ability to completely remove it should I have any warranty concerns. Not looking to tune myself or having to run logs. Not doing any other mods like intake or downpipe. Just want something that works. Would your device fulfill these desires? I see you're looking to update the firmware with an auto tune mode. Looks promising and would probably be what I'm after. Anyway, I was very active on both GolfMKV and GolfMK6 and looking forward to my return to the clan with a 7. Thanks in advance!


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George Smooth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
South Africa
Greetings and salutations. I apologize if this isn't the best place for this but since it's an informational thread and I am seeking information, perhaps it is correct.

Looking to pick up a Golf 1.8 TSI auto in 6 months. Had 2 GTI's in the past, 06 APR Stage 2+, and a 12 APR Stage 2. Liked the cars well enough but moved in different directions. Got a 16 Triumph Street Triple R for fun so not looking to heavily mod, but I'm looking for a commuter. I'm seeking a plug and play simple solution to just give the Golf a bit more punch, and still have the ability to completely remove it should I have any warranty concerns. Not looking to tune myself or having to run logs. Not doing any other mods like intake or downpipe. Just want something that works. Would your device fulfill these desires? I see you're looking to update the firmware with an auto tune mode. Looks promising and would probably be what I'm after. Anyway, I was very active on both GolfMKV and GolfMK6 and looking forward to my return to the clan with a 7. Thanks in advance!


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Both the units we provide JB1 and JB4 seem to be suitable for your needs so it might come down to install ease. Best you check the difference of the two in that regard. If you the kind of guy that always gets a itch that needs to get scratched and will want more down the line grab the JB4 to save the upgrade trouble.
 
Both the units we provide JB1 and JB4 seem to be suitable for your needs so it might come down to install ease. Best you check the difference of the two in that regard. If you the kind of guy that always gets a itch that needs to get scratched and will want more down the line grab the JB4 to save the upgrade trouble.


Thank you sir. Yes I say I want simple now but I'm the type to always say, "what if I had that?" JB4 it is. Thank you!


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TwinDad

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Fort Lee, NJ
Greetings and salutations. I apologize if this isn't the best place for this but since it's an informational thread and I am seeking information, perhaps it is correct.

Looking to pick up a Golf 1.8 TSI auto in 6 months. Had 2 GTI's in the past, 06 APR Stage 2+, and a 12 APR Stage 2. Liked the cars well enough but moved in different directions. Got a 16 Triumph Street Triple R for fun so not looking to heavily mod, but I'm looking for a commuter. I'm seeking a plug and play simple solution to just give the Golf a bit more punch, and still have the ability to completely remove it should I have any warranty concerns. Not looking to tune myself or having to run logs. Not doing any other mods like intake or downpipe. Just want something that works. Would your device fulfill these desires? I see you're looking to update the firmware with an auto tune mode. Looks promising and would probably be what I'm after. Anyway, I was very active on both GolfMKV and GolfMK6 and looking forward to my return to the clan with a 7. Thanks in advance!


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Even without the need to play around and tune yourself, I still think the JB4 would be better for you. I had the JB1 at first and then upgraded it. It is worth the extra money for the increase. It was noticeable to me. I only have a K&N filter and did some minor things to let the airbox breathe a little easier. It's not going to make your golf as quick as the stage 2 cars you had, but it will make it quicker than either one of them were stock. Probably be like a stage 1 on the '06. Being that you are a car guy, you know you are not going to be able to resist tinkering a little more. Lol. It definitely makes the car fun. Stock it was lacking.
 
Even without the need to play around and tune yourself, I still think the JB4 would be better for you. I had the JB1 at first and then upgraded it. It is worth the extra money for the increase. It was noticeable to me. I only have a K&N filter and did some minor things to let the airbox breathe a little easier. It's not going to make your golf as quick as the stage 2 cars you had, but it will make it quicker than either one of them were stock. Probably be like a stage 1 on the '06. Being that you are a car guy, you know you are not going to be able to resist tinkering a little more. Lol. It definitely makes the car fun. Stock it was lacking.


Yeah. That seems to be a fair assessment. :) Back in the day I didn't worry about warranty as much. Now that I'm older (Today is my 38th Birthday :) ), priorities and concerns are shifted. Want to have that little extra, but don't care about racing or max power, just daily drivability.


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Gro Harlem

Ready to race!
Location
Gambrills, MD
Mr. Smooth, a few questions:

1: Just an observation but it looks like some of your first post was cut & pasted from the N54 BMW thread. Are the parameters like "Fuel Open Loop" set to 60 the same case for the 1.8TSI?

2: What's the factory boost on the 1.8TSI? I thought it was pretty low, like 12-14psi max while the GTI was more like 20-22?

3: Do Maps 1 and 2 assume you are using 91 octane?

4: If so, would more tweaking be necessary to see even more gains using 93 octane?

5: Could it be possible to get some 87 octane support? I like the idea of being able to continue using cheap-o 87 while still getting a little bit of a power boost. I would think you'd use Map 6 for this and maybe overboost 2-3psi instead but logs would need to be pulled to know for sure what parameters need tweaking.

I'm super close to pulling the trigger on one of these :)
 

TwinDad

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Fort Lee, NJ
I was told that the stock 1.8 is around 12psi peak on super. Based on logging, it does not reach that in cold weather. I'm getting around 8 on 93. I know in hot weather it may climb to 12, maybe more. you can always do a map 6 with a few psi to add. You would have to watch it during warm weather though. The safe bet would be to log it stock, see where you are at and then do a target setting on 6. If you are only hitting 8 stock, set it for 11 or 12. If it looks clean, add boost a little and check again. Don't let the boost numbers fool you. I got to hung up on what the stock setting should be and shot straight for 16. It pulled timing. I played around some and lowered it in spots. It still pulls way harder then stock
 
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