7
Building Otto
- Thread starter Ezekiel81923
- Start date
Agree. If it were my car I would probably have the ECU apart and testing the circuit board for voltage errors lol.
Ezekiel81923
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Royersford, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 Volkswagen GTI
Remains to be seen if I/we are right but I just can't accept that the ECU magically shit the bed as soon as I installed a new turbo. And what Matt from EQT has been saying makes a lot of sense, he's the real hero.
I can't wait to hear the the source of the problem.
Ezekiel81923
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Royersford, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 Volkswagen GTI
Starting the morning with hopeful optimism.
Picked up the car last night and the AP was still married to the car. They told me they turned it back to stock and would leave it that way, I would have to flash the correct tune back on when I got it. If the AP was still married to the car then they didn't uninstall it which means VCDS would still not have worked when they tried to calibrate the wg actuator "after flashing to stock." Not sure which tune they ended up going back to but nonetheless, I don't know how they could have determined anything with VCDS locked out.
Confirmed this morning they installed an is20 actuator. Just need my neighbors stubby 10 and we'll get to work.
Found this thread from PerceivedShift and this seems like a quicker way of doing it without the burn risk. I'll probably try this first.
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-i-adjusted-an-is20-wg-with-cobb-ap.395765/
Picked up the car last night and the AP was still married to the car. They told me they turned it back to stock and would leave it that way, I would have to flash the correct tune back on when I got it. If the AP was still married to the car then they didn't uninstall it which means VCDS would still not have worked when they tried to calibrate the wg actuator "after flashing to stock." Not sure which tune they ended up going back to but nonetheless, I don't know how they could have determined anything with VCDS locked out.
Confirmed this morning they installed an is20 actuator. Just need my neighbors stubby 10 and we'll get to work.
Found this thread from PerceivedShift and this seems like a quicker way of doing it without the burn risk. I'll probably try this first.
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-i-adjusted-an-is20-wg-with-cobb-ap.395765/
Ezekiel81923
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Royersford, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 Volkswagen GTI
Little update -
Shop really phoned it in after I said I wanted the car back. The wiring/plug for the seconday 02 sensor was dangling under the car, they stripped the bolt for the V-band clamp and cross threaded the shit out of it. The V-band wasn't tight at all and I had a huge exhaust leak where the DP meets the turbo. Luckily I had a bolt from previous project that threaded right in. It's ridiculously long but it works.
Played with the wg a little bit, I can't get the rod to turn by hand. It feels like it might be turning but it's probably my fingers slipping. I keep taking photos of the backside to check for progress and I'm counting the same # of threads every time. Which I guess is good, because through all of that the voltage at the actuator wasn't changing and I was worried the shop might've been right for a minute. Might have to pull the DP again to get underneath and put some muscle into it. Busy weekend so not going to get very far if that's the case but all in due time.
Shop really phoned it in after I said I wanted the car back. The wiring/plug for the seconday 02 sensor was dangling under the car, they stripped the bolt for the V-band clamp and cross threaded the shit out of it. The V-band wasn't tight at all and I had a huge exhaust leak where the DP meets the turbo. Luckily I had a bolt from previous project that threaded right in. It's ridiculously long but it works.
Played with the wg a little bit, I can't get the rod to turn by hand. It feels like it might be turning but it's probably my fingers slipping. I keep taking photos of the backside to check for progress and I'm counting the same # of threads every time. Which I guess is good, because through all of that the voltage at the actuator wasn't changing and I was worried the shop might've been right for a minute. Might have to pull the DP again to get underneath and put some muscle into it. Busy weekend so not going to get very far if that's the case but all in due time.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
Ezekiel81923
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Royersford, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 Volkswagen GTI
I was using a little 6" pair of pliers. Felt like I was getting somewhere but after what I thought was 6-8 quarter turns I still see the same # of threads and the same voltage. I'll get locking pliers if it'll really make all the difference but I don't think I'll get anywhere from up top. I can move the rod / actuator back and forth no problem but turning it is a whole other thing.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
well you should be able to back it out of the wastegate flapper arm at some point.
Ezekiel81923
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Royersford, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 Volkswagen GTI
Hey friends...I'm back
Took a break fiddling with the car (a long one) and took a break from the forum because it makes me fiddle with the car. Car has been in a general state of disrepair this whole time but is finally getting put back together. To re-cap, the original shop returned the car to me with...
The wastegate actuator set to 0.5V and a recommendation to replace the ECU
Broken DP clamp
Broken exhaust clamp
Oil leak
In my time away I also blew both front struts, cracked the windshield and bent another wheel.
Car is currently at a different shop that got the wastegate taken care of. I'm told there is no CEL or EPC currently and if so that would be true for the first time in 9 months. It builds boost again! Also means I did not need an ECU like the first shop insisted. The front struts and FSB end links are also getting replaced, the car aligned, and they are figuring out the source of the oil leak. I'm hoping it's an oil line for the turbo but it's probably the RMS. If the clutch is cooked we're going to put an ACT in there (the Ringer was slipping from the beginning anyway). The Fluidampr crank pulley stopped bouncing around as much but the belt on that side is cracking / tearing so I still am unsure if that pulley is really worth its weight in, well, anything. I'll replace the belt and see what happens from there. Oh, and I might even get the car inspected.
All in all, it's going to be expensive, and I don't care. I want to like my car again. And it sounds like we're well on our way there. Pending the outcome with the oil leak the car should be done Monday. I still have boxes of brand new parts to install from last year and it is starting to warm up a little so we might get back to being a car person soon enough.
Took a break fiddling with the car (a long one) and took a break from the forum because it makes me fiddle with the car. Car has been in a general state of disrepair this whole time but is finally getting put back together. To re-cap, the original shop returned the car to me with...
The wastegate actuator set to 0.5V and a recommendation to replace the ECU
Broken DP clamp
Broken exhaust clamp
Oil leak
In my time away I also blew both front struts, cracked the windshield and bent another wheel.
Car is currently at a different shop that got the wastegate taken care of. I'm told there is no CEL or EPC currently and if so that would be true for the first time in 9 months. It builds boost again! Also means I did not need an ECU like the first shop insisted. The front struts and FSB end links are also getting replaced, the car aligned, and they are figuring out the source of the oil leak. I'm hoping it's an oil line for the turbo but it's probably the RMS. If the clutch is cooked we're going to put an ACT in there (the Ringer was slipping from the beginning anyway). The Fluidampr crank pulley stopped bouncing around as much but the belt on that side is cracking / tearing so I still am unsure if that pulley is really worth its weight in, well, anything. I'll replace the belt and see what happens from there. Oh, and I might even get the car inspected.
All in all, it's going to be expensive, and I don't care. I want to like my car again. And it sounds like we're well on our way there. Pending the outcome with the oil leak the car should be done Monday. I still have boxes of brand new parts to install from last year and it is starting to warm up a little so we might get back to being a car person soon enough.
Ezekiel81923
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Royersford, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 Volkswagen GTI
GEAR (Glenn's European Auto Repair) in Spring City.
Leading Edge Autosport in West Chester is playing the role of hero right now
Oil leaks seem to be going around...
Ezekiel81923
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Royersford, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 Volkswagen GTI
Mine is from the lower oil pan / oil pan gasket. It's getting replaced today. Not sure how that just springs a leak in only 4 years but hey, what's money.
Hoping to have the car back today and then I can finally experience what a properly set up Vortex is like. Already considering MPI once this credit car bill clears.
Ezekiel81923
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Royersford, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 Volkswagen GTI
Miles: 51,346 - Fresh oil change
Got the car back. Hit 31.6psi on the way home from the shop. Life is good again
Got the car back. Hit 31.6psi on the way home from the shop. Life is good again