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Building a High Fidelity Sound System Build (Attempt)

mmdb

Go Kart Champion
Location
California
Looks like someone building a bird house on mushrooms
No sir. I'm clean and square hyuk hyuk ;B

More fun. Now comes the amp gain settings, time alignment, and initial RTA measurements compliments of REW (Room EQ Wizard).

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mmdb

Go Kart Champion
Location
California
I'm only on this forum for this thread. Keep it coming.

big thanks! I’m happy to know there’s other audio heads in here!

ok set the gains using this super cheap ($40) oscilloscope. Does the job though. Also, I’m following AudioFrog’s guide to setup gains. He recommends setting at -10db. Though it’s a lot, I’ll leave the smarts to someone who knows more that this idiot (points to self)

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so I took my first RTA reading. This is without crossover or correction. The scale is too big and the linearity is a bit misleading since it’s a 20 db scale. I’ll fix that and repost. This is without a sub (JL 10” W6v3 is on the way).
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mmdb

Go Kart Champion
Location
California
Subwoofer Time!

Peekaboo. Checking to see what's behind the panels... luckily nothing much.

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Except a DCC controller (if you ever wondered where that was) and a bunch of more volume!
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This is about .5 cubic foot of volume. Having cut out the panel a tad, I can achieve about .65-7 cubic foot. Just about perfect for this sub...
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Adurm

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Fl
You undoubtedly have killer gear going in. I'm very concerned and interested how you're going to make that deep ass sub fit there. Keep going man!
 

mmdb

Go Kart Champion
Location
California
You undoubtedly have killer gear going in. I'm very concerned and interested how you're going to make that deep ass sub fit there. Keep going man!
Thank you sir! Actually the setup isn't too pricy. The AudioFrogs are pretty pricey, but you can definitely achieve a good/great sound with a cheaper midbass. The amps aren't Arc's best stuff. They're class D amps, small, and put out good power. I usually bought my amps 2nd hand, and if damaged (seller's not selling good stuff), Arc Audio was more than happy to fix it. Of course there's a service charge. That's why I always stick with 'em. But I could definitely see myself using cheaper speakers to achieve the same, if not better, quality.

Now back to the sub. I called JL Audio to get their feedback. I was curious because they recommend .5 cubic feet... which isn't really much. When you think of a seals box you think of a big ass... box... in your trunk with nothing else in there. Well interesting enough they said .5 cubic feet is OPTIMAL. Anything bigger than that, while feeding more power, could damage the sub. They said anything with 10-15% of the volume is ideal. And with the sub, the volume comes out to .61 cubic feet. Which is definitely achieveable by utilizing that little cubby space and maybe bleeding over a tad. It's harder to get more volume than to decrease it. So I'll shoot for a little bit bigger of a box and fill up additional volume with resin + wood dust + sand + coins.

Tape and more tape.

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Here's where the sub will fit. I love how JL tries to help with the install. The speaker will protrude out a tad. Also, I'll be able to take out the bottom shelf... thing... to reach the amps. Looks like I'll need to load up on some 3/4" mdf wood and 48oz fiberglass cloth.

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Adurm

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Fl
Awesome! Make sure you give it enough space for the pole to vent.
 

mmdb

Go Kart Champion
Location
California
Awesome! Make sure you give it enough space for the pole to vent.
Yeap! JL was nice enough to provide a cutout of the speaker with a lil tab. Just needs 1/2" of clearance. That'll be no problem.

Glassed the backing part of the box. 0.6 cubic feet will be easily achievable ow. So far it has 120oz layers of fiberglass or 3-4 layers of the 40oz. I'll continue building it up and eventually it'll be over half and inch thick... or more of strictly fiberglass. I'll have to create a front plate of 3/4" MDF.

Hope this gives some of the folks out there creating a sealed box. You can have the added functionality with enough room for a kickass sub. The room allows for it!

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mmdb

Go Kart Champion
Location
California
Just in case I didn't post this before. The RTA readings are from the wideband (door pods) and woofers (in kicks). These are RAW, unprocessed readings. Notice the huge dips over 10db (Btw i had x-overs defined at 250hz with 24db butterworth slopes). After speaking with the smart folks over at Arc Audio, you want to cut the dB of the signals. You never want to boost more than 1 db. You can also see (hopefully) that the woofers are pumping out bass. I mean overpowering, and... with no rattles! And I am not bothered by the kicks on the driver side at all. Something to consider!


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mmdb

Go Kart Champion
Location
California
Might just be the angle but that driver side kick looks like it puts the cone of the woofer real close to the clutch pedal.
My size 14's would smack that thing around all day!
That might be an issue! I have size 8.5 feet and have about 4-5 inches. But you’d have to really try to jab the woofer. If anything you’d rub the speaker surround and not jab through it. I’m not worried!
 

mmdb

Go Kart Champion
Location
California
Finished up the backing plate for the subwoofer. After many layers of 40oz cloth and bi-axial mesh backed cloth I was able to get about 1/2” of thickness. I don’t think I would need to strengthen this any more. Almost there!!

Note: if glassing use polyester resin without wax (stay away from Bondo).

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JackRabbitSLIM

Go Kart Champion
Location
OHIO
Car(s)
MK7 GTI
You should really think about adding internal bracing to that sub enclosure considering the scope of this project. Maybe some turn buckle style hardware. At least double up the thickness of that baffle. If you can support the magnet that goes a long way too. That 10W6 will make some serious pressure. When the enclosure is finished, if you knock on it like a door, you want it to sound like knocking on a boulder not a tube. You don't want to do all this and have the bass sound muddy.
 

Adurm

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Fl
You gotta be the first dude to ever attempt a w6 in that cubby. For sure by brace it up. Face to the back somehow. Even if you have to drill a hole and seal it with a rubber o ring. Half inch glass is strong but the w6 is formidable.
 

mmdb

Go Kart Champion
Location
California
You should really think about adding internal bracing to that sub enclosure considering the scope of this project. Maybe some turn buckle style hardware. At least double up the thickness of that baffle. If you can support the magnet that goes a long way too. That 10W6 will make some serious pressure. When the enclosure is finished, if you knock on it like a door, you want it to sound like knocking on a boulder not a tube. You don't want to do all this and have the bass sound muddy.
Yeah that’s a really good idea. I’ll consider that moving forward. I’ll be building it, and the walls using 3/4” mdf. The backing will be bolted by several m6 alloy steel bolts. Though there’s a bit of it that I couldn’t bolt due to there just not being enough the posted metal to drill into.
 
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