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Bilstein b6 damptronic

Greg_mk7

Ready to race!
Location
Montreal
Car(s)
2017 golf R
This is simply untrue. There’s documented conversations with reps confirming that the Eibach Pro Kit works extremely well with the B6 dampers. In fact, they sold this combo as a package in Europe for quite a while! I’ll find you all the data I’m referring to later this weekend. There’s also documented real-life experience of people using this combo for multiple tens of thousands of miles without issue.

I just don’t want someone searching to be deterred by misinformation. This is a tried and true combo. B6 tolerates minimal drop NO problem. B8 for drops 1.5” and beyond from my understanding.

I’m not telling you to use the springs either because staying OEM is fine, but for people who want a slightly lower center of gravity and some closure of wheel gap, these Pro Kits are the solution.
The only combo that i saw that was sold with the eibach pro kit used to be the bilstein B12 kit but those were sold with bilstein b8.
 

doctorGolfR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Boston
Car(s)
MK VII Golf R
The only combo that i saw that was sold with the eibach pro kit used to be the bilstein B12 kit but those were sold with bilstein b8.
Apologies, you’re right! The B12 kit was the Pro Kit with the the B8 dampers. Shorter damper but same internals as the B6. I think my point was that Bilstein and Eibach are no strangers to working together, and if there’s any spring that’ll mate well with Bilstein it would be an Eibach spring.

The B6 DCC dampers are significantly firmer than the OEM DCC dampers on the Golf R. If OEM can handle the higher spring rates in the OEM springs then I don’t see how the B6 would have any issue with an ever-so-slightly shorter spring in the Eibach Pro Kit with supposed lower spring rates than the OEM Golf R springs…
 

tigeo

Autocross Champion
B6 vs. B8 confusion. B6 and 8 are identical dampers EXCEPT that the 8 is 1" shorter. That's all there is to this. Why is it shorter? To accommodate shorter springs so that adequate preload can be maintained at full extension. Further, since the damper travel controls the bump/droop limits and running a lowering spring decreases bump, having a shorter damper reduces droop to help keep things balanced to the extent possible. There is no magic to the B8 beyond length. This info (same just shorter) can be verified on the Bilstein's site. On the popular springs like Eibach or H&R, both are touted as "designed for OE dampers"....which really means...."designed for OE LENGTH dampers". The springs aren't short enough to require a shorter damper (Eibach if Linear does through length, H&R are dual-rate and have dead coils to deal with this). Case in point, my H&R springs on my stock dampers had enough preload to keep the springs tight at full extension...however, I barely needed to use the spring compressor to remove them. On the B8s when I installed those, I needed to compress the H&Rs quite a bit to get the strut mount on. If you can run the springs on OE dampers, you can also run them on the B6 as they are OE length. The only downside is the extra 1" of length giving you more droop which may not be desirable from a balance stand point. Finally, I wouldn't touch the jounce bumpers ("bump stops") unless the instructions say to do so. Remember, they are progressive microcellular springs and part of the suspension and designed to work as helpers. They aren't hard stops that you "hit". The Bilsteins have internal bumpers so hard to mess with them anyway but can be done.

Here's a video on my channel (pls sub!)) that goes into a bit of this topic (starting at ~6:00):

 
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tigeo

Autocross Champion
To the OP: front and rear sway bars are a great way to control body roll while not impacting spring rate for normal driving.
 

Greg_mk7

Ready to race!
Location
Montreal
Car(s)
2017 golf R
To the OP: front and rear sway bars are a great way to control body roll while not impacting spring rate for normal driving.
Thanks but i feel like stock 24mm in the front and 21mm in the back are sufficient in size. Its not just the roll that bothers me, its how much the car drops into bumps without resistance. I really feel like it is overdamped and under sprung. I regularly switch cars with my brothers 2018 Audi s3 which has same size roll bars but stiffer oem springs and find it to ride way better and with less body roll.
 

Greg_mk7

Ready to race!
Location
Montreal
Car(s)
2017 golf R
Thanks but i feel like stock 24mm in the front and 21mm in the back are sufficient in size. Its not just the roll that bothers me, its how much the car drops into bumps without resistance. I really feel like it is overdamped and under sprung. I regularly switch cars with my brothers 2018 Audi s3 which has same size roll bars but stiffer oem springs and find it to ride way better and with less body roll.
To the OP: front and rear sway bars are a great way to control body roll while not impacting spring rate for normal driving.
After giving it much thought and going back and forth with spring companies and bilstein and many performance shops, i think the safest bet is sway bars. These b6 damptronic were expensive and i dont want to mess them up. Im going to start with the rear seay bar. Can anyone recommend a size and a brand that is not too expensive.
 

HuntR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Seattle
I found increasing the rear ARB rate was a noticeable improvement in turn-in. It’s a popular mod. I didn’t notice the same effect when I upgraded the front. I used Whiteline for both ARB’s. Now I have B6 DCC’s with Eibach springs. It’s decently flat in Race mode, but not quite there for me. Check out this thread for some testimonials on reduced ‘body roll’ and staying flat in corners.
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/review-apr-scu-dsc-controller.425672/
 

HuntR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Seattle
What are you imagining? The ARB upgrades on my car are neither great nor bad-just an experience.
I say go for the rear for sure and can’t do any harm with the front upgrade either. My experience was a good one-just sayI noticed the rear much more.
 

Greg_mk7

Ready to race!
Location
Montreal
Car(s)
2017 golf R
What are you imagining? The ARB upgrades on my car are neither great nor bad-just an experience.
I say go for the rear for sure and can’t do any harm with the front upgrade either. My experience was a good one-just sayI noticed the rear much more.
I found increasing the rear ARB rate was a noticeable improvement in turn-in. It’s a popular mod. I didn’t notice the same effect when I upgraded the front. I used Whiteline for both ARB’s. Now I have B6 DCC’s with Eibach springs. It’s decently flat in Race mode, but not quite there for me. Check out this thread for some testimonials on reduced ‘body roll’ and staying flat in corners.
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/review-apr-scu-dsc-controller.425672/
Thanks
Going to try the rear first, dont feel like dropping my front subframe for the front sway bar.
 

krs

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Car(s)
MKVIIS R
What are you imagining? The ARB upgrades on my car are neither great nor bad-just an experience.
I say go for the rear for sure and can’t do any harm with the front upgrade either. My experience was a good one-just sayI noticed the rear much more.
Wasn’t directed at you.

But who would have thought that by adding an anti sway bar would help minimize….. body sway? Among other benefits.

The OP was adamant against sway bars for numerous reasons, contrary to what plenty of people on here and the vortex explained would be mitigated by the addition of sway bars.

All part of the learning process I suppose.
 

tigeo

Autocross Champion
I'm a fan of H&R products. I run their 25/27mm bars on my wagon (same set as the R) - not a peep after several years b/c they use Teflon-impregnated bushings.
 

Greg_mk7

Ready to race!
Location
Montreal
Car(s)
2017 golf R
Wasn’t directed at you.

But who would have thought that by adding an anti sway bar would help minimize….. body sway? Among other benefits.

The OP was adamant against sway bars for numerous reasons, contrary to what plenty of people on here and the vortex explained would be mitigated by the addition of sway bars.

All part of the learning process I suppose.
There are certain aspects of the vehicles current behaviour that i dont like that still wont be mitigated by sway bars; brake dive and how much the suspension floats over bumps. There is a reason manufacturers dont just add larger sway bars and keep the springs soft on vehicles, you do realize that even the rs3 has the same size sway bars that the golf r has, why do you think they increased spring rate and upgraded the dampers on it instead of just upgrading the sway bars…you will be hard pressed to find other vehicles with larger than 24mm front and 21mm rear sway bars stock like the R, thats why i was saying that i think the oem ones are sufficient. The only reason that i am open to trying them out is because i dont want to ruin my 2200$ struts that i just purchased with softer eibach springs or springs that will ruin the struts. Ideally I should have just gone with bilstein b8 from the get go.
 

tigeo

Autocross Champion
There are certain aspects of the vehicles current behaviour that i dont like that still wont be mitigated by sway bars; brake dive and how much the suspension floats over bumps. There is a reason manufacturers dont just add larger sway bars and keep the springs soft on vehicles, you do realize that even the rs3 has the same size sway bars that the golf r has, why do you think they increased spring rate and upgraded the dampers on it instead of just upgrading the sway bars…you will be hard pressed to find other vehicles with larger than 24mm front and 21mm rear sway bars stock like the R, thats why i was saying that i think the oem ones are sufficient. The only reason that i am open to trying them out is because i dont want to ruin my 2200$ struts that i just purchased with softer eibach springs or springs that will ruin the struts. Ideally I should have just gone with bilstein b8 from the get go.
Not quite sure why you think Eibach springs or other would ruin your new B6 struts? A B6 can handle a stock or sport spring wihtout issue. The only reason there is a B8 is that is 100% the same as a B6 but is 1" shorter to help mainain preload on the shorter springs (so it won't move)...that's it.

To the sway bars - sure, stock is fine but if that is the case why does anyone mod their suspension? Larger front/rear sway bars substantially reduce body roll. Brake dive ok, springs/dampers on that one. Is this car being tracked?
 

Greg_mk7

Ready to race!
Location
Montreal
Car(s)
2017 golf R
Not quite sure why you think Eibach springs or other would ruin your new B6 struts? A B6 can handle a stock or sport spring wihtout issue. The only reason there is a B8 is that is 100% the same as a B6 but is 1" shorter to help mainain preload on the shorter springs (so it won't move)...that's it.

To the sway bars - sure, stock is fine but if that is the case why does anyone mod their suspension? Larger front/rear sway bars substantially reduce body roll. Brake dive ok, springs/dampers on that one. Is this car being tracked?
I’ve consulted bilstein and they told me they are not meant for lowering springs not even a small drop. I consulted many performance shops and they said they will likely reduce the life of the shock, I’ve consulted h and r, and other spring companies . Some said b6 Are not good with lowering springs, others said they are ok but will likely reduce the life of the struts a bit. There was even a shop that told me that hes seen some B6 Damptronic dampers fail on oem springs.
If people want to take a chance with them thats their choice. Ill take the advice of Bilstein themselves. Like i said they were expensive and i dont want to chance it.
The idea that the b6 handles a sport spring has soley originated from anecdotes unsupported by the manufacturer themselves, as well as some spring companies. If you want I have all the emails from them that i can show you.
I dont plan on tracking the car.
 
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