Billet Engine Mount and NVH.

[Scala]

I'm trying to eliminate a slight vibration caused noise that manifested itself at idle, only at idle, after the installation of a Dogbone and a Pendulum.

Thinking to make the engine less capable of vibrating, something that this engine mount might help with:

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Torque-Solution-Billet-Engine-Mount-Volkswagen.html

Or would I be acquiring additional NVH? (Then again it is inexpensive enough and easily removed.)

Ideas, suggestions?

Thank you.

 

[Sandman GTI]

Some will say they feel no increase in NVH when adding engine/Trans mount along with dog bone inserts. I do not agree with this however. If you are adding something to reduce movement of the engine it will likely transfer some amount of NVH to the car. It is a more solid connection. If you pursue stiffer mounts, slightly more vibration goes with it.
If NVH is an issue, I suggest to return and stay stock.

 

[Scala]

....If you pursue stiffer mounts, slightly more vibration goes with it....

Right you are and I thank you.

There is however the possibility of the stiffer mount moving the vibration to a higher rpm where it isn't as noticeable as it is now at idle.

Q: How does one make the present mount not much but only a little stiffer?
A: Insert a hex head 5mm wood screw in the rubber.

 

[black forest ind]

You could raise your idle by 50rpms, that tends to help.

 

[Scala]

You could raise your idle by 50rpms, that tends to help.

Excellent and true, it does indeed. How does one raise the idle? I'm afraid it is VCDS.

 

[DiscusInferno]

I'm trying to eliminate a slight vibration caused noise that manifested itself at idle, only at idle, after the installation of a Dogbone and a Pendulum.

Thinking to make the engine less capable of vibrating, something that this engine mount might help with:

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Torque-Solution-Billet-Engine-Mount-Volkswagen.html

Or would I be acquiring additional NVH? (Then again it is inexpensive enough and easily removed.)

Ideas, suggestions?

Thank you.

That's a MK5 & MK6 mount. Looks like a copy of the BSH Speedshop one.

Here's their MK7 mount:
https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Torq...-Volkswagen-Golf-GTI-Golf-R-MK7-MQB-2015.html

Going from soft rubber, fluid filled engine mounts to a higher durometer urethane engine mount means less NVH will be absorbed by the mount.

The upgraded engine and trans mount also require more maintenance, you have to regularly replace the bushings. BFI sells replacement bushings for their mounts.

 

[MeltedSolid]

A billet aluminum engine mount might be a bit intense. I have BFI's stage 2 engine/transmission mount, which are mostly polyurethane and it feels pretty good. There is a NVH increase, but I would say it's more comforting than annoying. It's certainly nothing that affects livability at all. I've only experienced problematic NVH in a car with an overly intense dogbone insert in addition to the stage 2 mounts, but my 034 insert has been more than fine.

 

[black forest ind]

The upgraded engine and trans mount also require more maintenance, you have to regularly replace the bushings. BFI sells replacement bushings for their mounts.

I wouldn't say our mounts require more maintenance, nor the need to constantly replace the bushings. Generally speaking, we sell the replacement bushings for people that may want to swap a Stage 1 for 2, and vice versa depending on what they use the car for.

 

[DiscusInferno]

I wouldn't say our mounts require more maintenance, nor the need to constantly replace the bushings. Generally speaking, we sell the replacement bushings for people that may want to swap a Stage 1 for 2, and vice versa depending on what they use the car for.

BSH has told me that their urethane bushings require regular replacement.

Too bad you guys thought the "Street" urethane bushings did not have a business case for you to continue manufacture them.

 

[black forest ind]

BSH has told me that their urethane bushings require regular replacement.

Too bad you guys thought the "Street" urethane bushings did not have a business case for you to continue manufacture them.

The "street" bushing would be labelled as Stage 1 now.

 

[Sandman GTI]

034 engine mounts might be a safer path. They are OE like with rubber just harder durometer. Higher RPM will only help at idle.
I think you will still feel a light vibration.

Unless one invents a material that is harder and can still absorb NVH there will likely always be a trade off. Maybe Flubber will work!

 

[DiscusInferno]

The "street" bushing would be labelled as Stage 1 now.

you once offered a softer durometer bushing than Stage 1 (used to be dyed yellow)

 

[black forest ind]

you once offered a softer durometer bushing than Stage 1 (used to be dyed yellow)

The difference between the two is only 5 in terms of durometer hardness. The added NVH is negligible. The reason why we went with a 70 and discontinued the 65 is for durability purposes. The new revisions last a lot longer than the previous made yellow bushings.

 

[Scala]

Is this what's being suggested?

https://store.blackforestindustries.com/bfimk7mqbcor.html

And if so please tell me if this will
1. Decrease the vibration and the ensuing rattle that I'm experiencing at idle and
2. Will not introduce incremental NVH over the entire rev band.
The car was absolutely silent but started misbehaving after the APR Dogbone and Pendulum were installed.

It is a Mk7 GTI with the APR stage I &II & DSG tunes.

Many thanks.

 

[MadMen]

Is this what's being suggested?

https://store.blackforestindustries.com/bfimk7mqbcor.html

And if so please tell me if this will
1. Decrease the vibration and the ensuing rattle that I'm experiencing at idle and
2. Will not introduce incremental NVH over the entire rev band.
The car was absolutely silent but started misbehaving after the APR Dogbone and Pendulum were installed.

It is a Mk7 GTI with the APR stage I &II & DSG tunes.

Many thanks.

The APR dogbone insert is your problem. Replace it with an 034 or an ECS plastic insert, and that will reduce much of the NVH. The APR piece is stainless, and a tight fit, which has zero give and transmits that to the cabin. It's great if you want the most out of reducing hop though.