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Best/Essential Upgrades?

Lert

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Ohio
I was wondering what the best simple upsgrades I could do without voiding warranty. Already doing wheels and tires and I have a problem where I tend to continue upgrading things I like... Posts or links to other posts would be greatly appreciated!
 

Twist1

Autocross Newbie
Mounts, mounts, mounts. Might as well build up your foundation while you're keeping warranty then it's ready for a tune later.
 

slide13

Ready to race!
Location
Wisco
Not sure if you’re manual or DSG but if manual I’d say short shifter and weighted shift knob, clutch delay valve delete, and clutch stop. Makes a big difference!
 

Jedimk7

Drag Race Newbie
Obdeleven [emoji41][emoji106]

Sent via Pide Piper compression app
 

Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Wouldn't a JB4 void warranty since it changes stock settings?

It's a piggyback, not programming. It just lies to the computer, it does not change settings.

You can just remove it and the dealer can't tell the difference.

Any recommendations?

Maybe the dogbone, if that. Why create extra noise/vibration on a stock car?

Even when you do turn the power up, dogbone is the only one you need unless you're launching on a prepped surface.
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
HPDE or autocross events.

You'll likely have a blast.

If you stay with it, you'll have a great resource of people who can help you out with suspension setup, opportunities to try other's setups, or at least drive along.
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
On the JB4 and piggybacks, service advisors have told me 'if you have a costly engine issue, VW may request deep scans before covering and that may reveal logged boost levels showing modification and cause denial'

So if this true, I think of it as:

Flash tune: no chance of coverage for anything major and you could be flagged without ever making a warranty claim.

Piggy back: can be removed so car is not flagged, but there is RISK of detection and denial should a costly claim occur.

As someone said 'pay to play'
 

Twist1

Autocross Newbie
It's a piggyback, not programming. It just lies to the computer, it does not change settings.

You can just remove it and the dealer can't tell the difference.



Maybe the dogbone, if that. Why create extra noise/vibration on a stock car?

Even when you do turn the power up, dogbone is the only one you need unless you're launching on a prepped surface.

Umm, even on a stock tune Oem motor and trans mounts are complete jelly after a dog bone and 10-12k miles. The 034 density line actually is less nvh than stock imho. The bfi mounts do create some nvh though.

Like I said, building up your foundation and shifter is probably your best bet. Maybe catback if you're into that sort of thing.
 

Twist1

Autocross Newbie
Obdeleven [emoji41][emoji106]

Sent via Pide Piper compression app

This is the single most beneficial mod any Audi or vw owner could do by the way. This above all else imo. It allows you to read codes, code your car easily, make little changes, log data from boost to timing in a very user friendly ui.
 

Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Umm, even on a stock tune Oem motor and trans mounts are complete jelly after a dog bone and 10-12k miles. The 034 density line actually is less nvh than stock imho. The bfi mounts do create some nvh though.

Like I said, building up your foundation and shifter is probably your best bet. Maybe catback if you're into that sort of thing.


I have 20k tuned miles (about 17k over 300whp) and have never felt the need upgrade anything besides the dogbone, and that was only to help wheel hop at the track.

Really didn't do much to be honest. Car still spins smooth on the street and wheel hops horribly on a prepped surface, slightly better than stock.

I have the ECS dogbone and 034 insert...waste of $200 for street use.

Replacing all the mounts on a stock car = cart before the horse IMO.
 
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Wrath And Tears

Go Kart Champion
Location
Azusa, CA
Car(s)
17 Sport, 99 E36
I have 20k tuned miles (about 17k over 300whp) and have never felt the need upgrade anything besides the dogbone, and that was only to help wheel hop at the track.

Really didn't do much to be honest. Car still spins smooth on the street and wheel hops horribly on a prepped surface, slightly better than stock.

I have the ECS dogbone and 034 insert...waste of $200 for street use.

Replacing all the mounts on a stock car = cart before the horse IMO.

:eek: I get wheel hop taking a flat on ramp hard on the stock tune. I just spend $30 from I.E for their dogbone insert. Not sure why you would spend $200 and not get the HPA full mount since you actually track the car. Everyone's driving style is different of course so people will see benefits from some things where others don't.

If you don't have a way to scan the car or pull codes the OBDEleven should be the first thing you buy, like was already mentioned. After that it's up to you, do you want to change how the car looks or sounds or how much power it has first?
 
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