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Beginner’s Guide / Tips for Buying a Street-Based Suspension

flipflp

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Car(s)
'16 Golf R DSG
still, it makes you wonder, who's manufacturing vs who's just brokering. to Konig's credit, they're not throwing out a bad guess or misrepresenting.
Even if you are manufacturing/own your facilities versus "distributing" you're still not going to get finished cast samples of every option before production. I'm sure manufacturing makes test casts for each mold to ensure processes and finishes, and that's where estimated weights would come from. You can run with those weights, or you can estimate and update once you have the wheel in house.
 

Hammersticks

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Bay Area, CA
Car(s)
'16 GTI, '18 e-Golf
stuff like this is not uncommon and if something seems odd, it helps to reach out. This is especially true suspension wise for those running non-GTI on this platform (50mm strut) or any type of engine mod.

in this case, they knew enough about 'their product' to understand the error and correct.
konig often doesn't know the weight of new wheels they bring to market... once told me 'we'll know once we get our first shipment'. Megan USA responded to tech questions on their swaybar with 'we don't know this info'. It pays to be sure before you send it to the shopping cart.
My sarcasm failed to come through the internets.
 

efaily

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Chicago 'burbs
Car(s)
2019 GTI SE Exp pkg
Neuspeeds' published spring rates are misleading because they give a single rate, although their springs are clearly very progressively wound by appearance.
 

efaily

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Chicago 'burbs
Car(s)
2019 GTI SE Exp pkg
I thought this might help some with spring selection. The pictures attached help visually demonstrate the difference between linear rate and dual rate progressive springs. Constantly increasing progressive rate springs also exist, but they are almost exclusively used as load helper springs in cargo applications with significant differences in load weight.
Linear rate springs deflect the same amount at a given load weight throughout their entire length. They are very predictable, and easier to engineer a particular ride height and spring length for a given application. They don't add any roll control in transitions, leaving that entirely to anti sway bars. They provide a consistent ride feel if they have sufficient suspension travel to avoid hitting the bump stops. Load capacity can be compromised in lowered ride height applications.
Dual rate progressive springs have coils spaced different distances apart throughout their winding. The coils spaced closer together are softer, while those further apart are stiffer, with a short transition in between. They deflect different amounts at a given load weight throughout their length. They are more complex, and more complicated to design for a given application. If designed correctly for a given application, they add roll control in addition to anti sway bars within their narrower design parameters. They can transition greatly in ride feel inside or outside their more narrowly designed application, which could include something as simple as the number of passengers. They can be designed for lowered ride height applications even with more limited suspension travel. They can maintain larger load capacity in lowered applications, albeit with harsher ride quality.

Neuspeed dual rate progressive vs VWR linear front springs.jpgNeuspeed dual rate progressive vs VWR linear rear springs.jpg
 

few35t

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
New Albany, IN
So I’m reading through this and I’m confused on the chart about the drop for vwr springs which says 1.2” f and 0.8” rear. I thought realistically the drop was maybe more like 0.8” all around, possibly even less. Car has vwr springs and oem dampers with only like 45k miles but I’m planning on getting new springs, aftermarket dampers, new wheels/tires, maybe even 2 piece rotors or just new oem.

Looks like the bilstein shocks will be perfect. Goal here is most comfy ride but with more drop. Was thinking ED’s or maybe Eibach Sportline? I do like neuspeed springs but I had the race on my 8th gen civic (paired with koni yellows) performed great but whew, they were very stiff. What’s the best balance between most drop and comfortable daily driving?
 

Hammersticks

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Bay Area, CA
Car(s)
'16 GTI, '18 e-Golf
^That was the VWR advertised drop back in the day. In reality the drop used to be around 1.3” with reverse rake but guys with them now can correct me. Also, per the first post I would absolutely not recommend VWR or ED springs with B8’s. Complaints of too much compression. Again guys who have had those setups can chime in, but makes sense. Low spring rates combined with low compression rate on the B6/8’s = bumpstops / crashing.
 

flipflp

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Car(s)
'16 Golf R DSG
Also, per the first post I would absolutely not recommend VWR or ED springs with B8’s. Complaints of too much compression. Again guys who have had those setups can chime in, but makes sense. Low spring rates combined with low compression rate on the B6/8’s = bumpstops / crashing.
This is my experience. Bilsteins either get stock springs or limited lowering springs like an H&R OEM sport, or something higher rate like Neuspeeds, IMO. Anything with a "10% increase in rate over stock" that lowers more than an inch will not be ideal. Consider Konis at that point. Or Coilovers.
 

efaily

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Chicago 'burbs
Car(s)
2019 GTI SE Exp pkg
Looks like the bilstein shocks will be perfect. Goal here is most comfy ride but with more drop. Was thinking ED’s or maybe Eibach Sportline? I do like neuspeed springs but I had the race on my 8th gen civic (paired with koni yellows) performed great but whew, they were very stiff. What’s the best balance between most drop and comfortable daily driving?
Those things are generally incompatible. A comfy ride (which is subjective) is more likely achieved with linear springs and low compression damping rates, which require more suspension travel to stay off bump stops. Lowering ride height inherently reduces suspension travel, which requires stiffer spring and/or compression damping rates to avoid bump stops.
 
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few35t

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
New Albany, IN
^That was the VWR advertised drop back in the day. In reality the drop used to be around 1.3” with reverse rake but guys with them now can correct me. Also, per the first post I would absolutely not recommend VWR or ED springs with B8’s. Complaints of too much compression. Again guys who have had those setups can chime in, but makes sense. Low spring rates combined with low compression rate on the B6/8’s = bumpstops / crashing.
Really? I didn't do any before and after measuring but I thought the drop was much more modest.

This is my experience. Bilsteins either get stock springs or limited lowering springs like an H&R OEM sport, or something higher rate like Neuspeeds, IMO. Anything with a "10% increase in rate over stock" that lowers more than an inch will not be ideal. Consider Konis at that point. Or Coilovers.
I honestly thought vwr would be considered limited lowering. Konis aren't off the table but maybe coilovers would be best.
 

mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
looking for some help here, lowered the car on coils, had an adjustment, then had alignment. car was ok, then springs compressed and it seemed like i was pretty slammed as far as low is. had some decent bumps since I was slammed. After a week, seemed like alignment was off. Took car back in to readjust things (Fix alignment), shop raised the front and all is now smooth as far as going over bumps and everything is.

It stills pulls to the left tho, so im thinking alignment is off. Last time I talked with the tech he was saying it could be due to being lower, but im 100% thinking alignment is off since springs compressed ect and the alignment shop need to redo their job. Tech said its possible I might need shorter front end links as the OEM ones are long and im still pretty low on coils.

What do yall think? Will another alignment fix this with OEM front end links/sway bar, or do I actually need shorter end links. Car did drive good on initial alignment, Now if i take my hands off the steering wheel it pulls left. Tech was saying it could be torque steer, which I never had before. Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
 
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